Saturday Question: Which Perfumer Makes Your Favourite?




Hello Fellow Fumies,

Every Saturday we have a Question, an idea purloined from Olfactoria’s Travels. Everyone gets to chime in with an answer, chat with other responders and it is a fun event each week. Taking sides never means taking offence and everyone keeps it respectful and light, even though we can sometimes trawl the depths.

The idea is you’ll see it on the weekend or chime in through the week. Hopefully you will come back and see if anyone has responded to your comment and you can reply to them.

Over 100 responses I will draw a Scent Sample Pack (from my collection)
This week:

Duchaufour Sample Set

  1. Neela Vermeire Creations Trayee
  2. Comme des Garcons Series 3 Incense: Avignon
  3. Eau d’Italie Sienne l´Hiver
  4. L’Artisan Al Oudh
  5. Penhaligon’s Amaranthine

Last Weeks Winner:

eMail me at (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with your address please

Saturday Question: Which Perfumer Makes Your Favourite?

We all have favourite fragrances and most of us know who our favourite fragrance was signed by. Perfumers are celebrities in the 21st century and we all fan girl our faves. I’ve picked someone who is still alive today and who makes quite a range of fragrances that I love and wear often. The Sample Set on offer today is made up of his work that I have full bottles of. There are many more in my collection but these were the ones that I thought would show a bit of his diversity.

My Answer:

Bertrand Duchaufour who created such luminous and luminary fragrances as those above and another that I particularly love, Mohur by Neela Vermeire Creations. Yes, I bang on about it incessantly and bore you to tears. SOZ, not sorry. It changed the way I felt about fragrance, continues to be one of my most spritzed scents and always feels just right. It’s multifaceted, intricate, elegant and showy. That hit of rose backed by a kitchen sinker of backing accords is timeless and spectacular.

Mr Duchaufour has a style but is often curated into other realms. For a while he was ubiquitous as the perfumer who signed off every new fragrance that I loved. His work with Neela Vermeire, L’Artisan, Aedes de Venustas, MDCI, CdG and Penhaligions show a versatile perfumer who manages to make even his quirkiest stuff wearable and comfortable.

My Saturday Question to you is:

Which Perfumer Makes Your Favourite?

43 thoughts on “Saturday Question: Which Perfumer Makes Your Favourite?

  1. Welcome Back!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I am more a fan of the perfumers from the past. Among perfumers still working, I am intrigued when Michael Almairac comes up with a creation.


  2. Hi Portia, I have so missed your posts and am super happy your site seems to have kicked out the bug! I fan girl Calice Becker and also Hilde Soliani. Best wishes and I hope you are having great fun on your London and Paris trips, stay safe and we are excited to read your next scent diary! 🙂


    • Hey VerbenaLuvvr
      It’s good to be back. Still trying to iron out the kinks
      Calice and Hildi are wonderful choices.
      London and Paris are fab.
      No scent diaries till I’m home, sorry
      Portia xx


  3. Yay to APJ! I have really missed you and everyone here.
    I think Bernard Duchaufour has made an incredible impact on niche perfumery, every time I look up a frag I love I find his name on it!


  4. Welcome back!
    I’ve missed the lovely company of the articles and the comments 🙂
    I will follow your example, and choose a perfumer that’s still alive (to make things easier!).
    I’ll pick the great Jacques Polge, creator of many wonderful Chanel fragrances – but I’m picking him for creating my beloved DIVA for Emanuel Ungaro.


  5. Oh, the relief! Soooo very glad to be back with you all.

    I’d have to say my two favourite independents are Teone and Andy Tauer.

    As for all time favourite, I don’t really have just one.


  6. My favourite independent is Teone Reinthal – a perfumer in the truest sense of the world in a market of many cranking out what is “in vogue” and money making. She is an artist who marches to the beat of her own drum.


  7. Right so, this is a hard one to pin down as my first thoughts went straight to Joséphine Catapano, creator of my true love, Fidji. And then Germaine Cellier. But my favourite living legend is Laurie Erickson of SSS, and of her many spectacular creations my favourite is Jour Ensoleille.


  8. Oh my God, you’re finally back! Suddenly this week sucks so much less 🙂

    Wake me up in the middle of the night and ask this question, I’ll only be able to reply “Jacques Guerlain”: Shalimar, Mitsouko, Chant d’aromes… I’m reading Le Roman des Guerlain right now, and I can’t wait to read the chapter where the author suggests that Jicky was a collaboration (!) between Aime and Jacques, a 15-year-old at that time. I almost “shiver with antici…pation!”, lol!


  9. Yay!!!!! So glad to see you back, it’s been shit without APJ to cheer me up. It’s been a really sucky tax season.

    My favourite indie perfumer is Andy Tauer, although I’m also a very big fan of the Naomi Goodsir and Papillon Perfume lines.


  10. You’re back! HUZZAH!
    I hope you are having the most marvelous trip.

    Absolutely zero chance of picking one favourite–I’m greedy–though Bertrand Duchaufour is up there for sure, along with Vero Kern, Jacques Polge, Germaine Cellier, Christopher Sheldrake, and Edmond Roudnitska…


  11. Your praising Duchaufour got me wearing one of the few perfumes of his I own: it’s a Russian fragrance called Tsarevna Lebed (“Swan Princess”). It took some getting used to, but now I’m considering buying a full bottle of this salty marshmallow.


      • Oh yeah! If it were made with high-end materials it would’ve blown any perfume snob’s socks away :)! I have some kind of hypersensitivity to certain modern molecules making me see “seams” on an otherwise perfectly made scent. Still, a nice perfume.


    • I’m digging his salty incense (copal azur) at the moment. (But ugh nothing smaller than 100ml to be had so not sure what happens after the sample is drained)


      • I get what you’re saying in spades. Nowadays I feel that I need no more than 10 or 15mls of anything! I won’t live long enough to use what I already have – unless I live to be at least 100, but with all my bad habits that just ain’t gonna happen 😸
        Hey, didn’t you spring for a big bottle of Mitzah on your travels? Spray with abandon, I say.


        • 10-15ml is a perfect amount for something new. And hurrah for the perfumers that offer that. (It seems that Aedes does do 3×10 of the Copal Azur, but it’s not to be found on this side of the Atlantic.)

          And, erm, well, yes, there is the small matter of the 250ml purchase. But, given the choice between no more Mitzah EVER, and a bathtub full of the stuff… 🙂

          And I do love that I no longer feel that I have to eke it out, and ration the spritzes.


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