Michael by Laurent Le Guernec for Michael Kors 2000

December 10, 2013 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 14 Comments

Post by Gabriella

Hello perfumed peeps!

Well, I had a totally different post planned for today but something happened fragrance-wise over the weekend that I felt compelled to share with you.

I became reacquainted with one of my old favourites. The sexy, sultry tuberose had been sitting in one of my drawers for ages, silver cap taken off as the bottle had leaked from time to time, looking forlorn and neglected. I spritzed some on Saturday morning and haven’t looked back since.

Michael by Laurent Le Guernec for Michael Kors 2000

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Freesia, incense, Chinese osmanthus, tamarind
Heart: Tuberose, iris, peony, orris root, arum lily
Base: Musk, cashmere wood, vetiver

Michael has been in my collection ever since I first tried it back in 2001. I was living in London with my brother and a friend. Most Saturdays we’d wander down to the local shopping centre at Brent Cross and we’d part ways for about half an hour or so before going grocery shopping at Tesco. They would look at useful stuff such as clothes and household goods and I’d go sniffing at Sephora and a department store, Fenwick’s. Once they’d come back, I’d annoy them for ages, wrists held aloft with the command: “Sniff!” It was on these sojourns that I first became acquainted with Creeds, Diors, Fracas and finally, Michael. I’d gladly take one of the textured camel spray blotters from the SA each visit and tuck in in my handbag. I sniffed and sniffed for months before I begged my brother to but me a bottle for my birthday.

Photo Stolen Wikipedia

The scent is powerful throughout its development and a complete sillage monster, which is exactly how I like it. It starts off with a big blast of tuberose, tempered with the bright sweetness of osmanthus and freesia. The lily appears and then the woody spices unfold, providing some depth to the heady tuberose core. It stays pretty much this way throughout its development.

I did say in a recent review that I thought Nasomatto’s Narcotic Venus is a poorer, albeit much higher priced, relation of Michael. I still stand by this claim. The main difference between them is that the spices are rounder here, whereas in Narcotic Venus, they feel more angular and almost metallic. If you have Michael, Narcotic Venus does seem like a bit of a extravagant frippery.

Photo Stolen July staff Sino Flickr

Needless to say, I love that I rediscovered this and that it remains part of my collection. There are naysayers though: Luca Turin and Tanya Sanchez gave a scathing review in Perfumes the Guide, and I concede that overspraying it could lean towards suffocation territory. But I think it is a lovely tuberose for the price point and it’s always been a compliment getter for me.

However, the thing I like about it most is that it was part of that old bastion of department store scents that took a chance and developed something with attitude and personality and very un-focus group like before Aquolina Pink Sugar and the sweet fruity patchouli things became the new normal.

Photo Stolen Filip Maljković Flickr

Further reading: The Scents of Self
Michael is available in most department stores and online discounters.
FragranceNet has it starting at $58.19/50ml (before coupon)
My Perfume Samples starts at $2.50/ml

So, have you tried Michael? What are some of the best department stores scents in your opinion?

With much love till next time,

M x
Michael Kors talks Signature Fragrance

November Sample Challenge Part 2

November 26, 2013 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 6 Comments

Post by Gabriella

Hello fumie friends!

Well, I am continuing the sample challenge set up by a friend on the Aussie Fragrance Network group on Facebook with some unexpected results. Read on to find out what happened.

November Sample Challenge Part 2

Photo Stolen BDOutdoors

Sunday, November 10: One terrific by-product of the challenge is that it has made me organize my very disorganized sample lot. Well, the challenge and the fact that Mr M has very kindly bought me a fishing tackle box for said purpose. I categorized things alphabetically and am finding things that I had completely forgotten about. Feel very excited about continuing now and celebrate with a dab of Serge Lutens Bois de Violette. It’s beautiful, but there is just something in the Serge Bois series that just doesn’t agree with my skin chemistry.

In the evening, I fall in love with Amouage Interlude Woman. How on earth did I ignore this for so long? I adore the coffee, kiwi fruit and green goodness that seems to sparkle on my skin. I must get some more of this, so head off and order a decant of this, Amouage Fate Woman, Serge Lutens Santal de Mysore (another big bottle want) and thrown in some Castlebajac for good measure after trawling the site for a while. I’m excited about Castlebajac. It’s a clean almondy scent that I wore years and years ago in London and the thought of it reminds me of a great work Christmas party.

Monday, November 11: I cheat. I wear Lys Mediterranee. Not a sample. Difficult day at work and I needed something I knew and loved to comfort me.

Wednesday, November 13: Chanel Beige. Wearing this today and the sample of 31 Rue Cambon the other week has taught me something: I love Chanel top notes but not the dry down. Chanel Beige starts so luscious with frangipani and the sunshiny-ness of hawthorn, it’s gorgeous. But I want it to stay this way, and of course, last a little longer like all the Exclusifs, sans Coromandel.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Friday, November 15: Oh hello lovely! I’ve had a sample of Dior New Look 1947 for ages and thankfully rediscovered it, due to new not-rummaging-around-in-drawers-for-half-an-hour-superorganized sample storage. This just FEELS like ME and I can’t get enough. It makes me pleased cos I’ve been quite cross at the House of Dior for mucking round with my beloved Diorissimo and Diorella. This just might make up for it.

Monday November 18: Bad, bad M. Have fallen totally off the wagon over the past few days due to sampling ennui. Maybe, just maybe, it is because I have been so busy and stressed at work that I haven’t had the headspace to enjoy my samples. I always need to be calm, relaxed and not half asleep or in need of valium and vodka to sample properly. In fact, I have been thinking that, when it comes to perfume, I need much less, not more. Decide to sell some more partial bottles.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Wednesday, November 20: Ok, so somebody must have hacked into my computer Monday or I was possessed by my alter ego as that stuff was just craaazy talk. But today, I had another issue: wanting, pining after a sample THAT I DID NOT HAVE. ARGH!!!! The-sample-that-I-must-have-right-now is Keiko Mecheri’s Isles Lointaines. I blame the boss’ PA. She asked for help with planning destinations for her honeymoon and asked if I’d been to the Amalfi coast and Positano in particular. Mr M and I went on one of our first romantic trips to Paris and Positano and Isles Lointaines was one of the samples I wore. I need to revisit those memories. NOW.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Saturday, November 23: Byredo Pulp. This is another one that’s just been sitting right there for ages, completely ignored, but yet, so readily available. I thought Dionne’s APJ review was terrific, but never got round to smelling this. It’s a luscious, full bodied citrus that just can’t help but make you smile. And even though it’s pouring with rain and has been wet for eons, I’m happy and warm with this on.

Samples are available from:
Surrender To Chance
Posh Peasant

So, how did you think I went with the second leg APJ peeps? Have I mentioned any favourites?

Love,
M

November Sample Challenge Part 1

November 12, 2013 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 31 Comments

Post by Gabriella

Hello fragrance lovers!

Late last month one of my friends on the Aussie Fragrance Network Facebook group invited people to participate in a sample challenge. For the whole month of November, we were to wear a sample of a different scent each day. I thought it was a great idea, given I have oodles of samples and never seem to get through many before I order more. Here’s my diary of week one.

November Sample Challenge: Gabriella’s Week 1 diary

Photo Stolen Naomi King Flickr

Friday, November 1: I decide to ease myself into this challenge by choosing a tuberose: Nasomatto Narcotic Venus. Turns out to be a bad choice. I’ve sampled it before and always had the same emotional reaction: anger. Why? Because to me this is an overpriced, poor imitation of Michael Kors Michael with a cheap metallic edge. Michael is so much smoother and rounder and about a quarter of the price of this. Enough said.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Saturday, November 2: I pop on some Juliette Has a Gun Miss Charming this morning and it’s a great choice for a sunny Saturday – a pretty, wearable rose, I really like it. After a shower, I stay scent free as we’re heading into the city and I want to test a couple of things. (Testing is the same as sampling surely?) I try the Frederic Malle Dries van Noten and its Eau de Wet Cardboard. Lipstick Rose graces the other arm (slightly cheating here as I have owned a bottle of this) and it’s not working either. The grapefruit is so loud today it’s almost nauseating.

Sunday November 3: Wake up with serious spraying envy today. My bottles are sitting on my dresser, winking at me, mocking me. Surely, surely it wouldn’t be too bad to have one teensy spray would it? I pick up my Tubey Crim, ease the cap off and…..

“Oi! Put that DOWN!”

Damn, I thought Mr M was downstairs.

“That’s cheating M. Wear a sample.”

Ok. I put the bottle down and smile sheepishly like the naughty child that I am.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

My sample of Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier Secret Datura restores my mood immensely. It’s a softer, sunnier take on datura than Serge Lutens Datura Noir. In the evening, I choose Guerlain’s Cruel Gardenia which is a pretty, powdery floral. It’s nice but my skin eats it up in five seconds.

Monday, November 4: I wake up with renewed vigor for the challenge. After all, it’s only a month, surely I can do it. Its Costes 2 today. I love it and wonder why it doesn’t get the same love as the original. I’m sitting at work in my soft, cuddly, cinnamon and spice haze when something-that-would-usually-be-good-but-is-the-worst-thing-ever-for-a-sample-challenge happens. The bottle of Fleur de Liane that I ordered recently arrives. Argh! No, no, no, no, no! MUST. NOT. OPEN. BOTTLE. Must be good, must be good and stay strong, stay focused. I feel like I’m in the perfumed equivalent of those temptation challenges on The Biggest Loser. Do I? Do I? Luckily, I’m at work and won’t have to face this till I get home.
*****
Bugger, so I did succumb. I am the bloody weakest link. But I remedy my lapse by wearing the two samples that were sent with the bottle: L’Artisan Skin on Skin and Caligna. Ewww! These are dreadful and I scrub them straight off. Placate myself by wearing the sample of Honey Miss Portia sent me and this is yum. Go to bed happy.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Tuesday, November 5: Chanel 31 Rue Cambon. Stunning. I’ve sampled before and each time I ask the same question: Why do I not have a bottle of this?

Wednesday, November 6: Sick in bed. Feeling that dreadful that I really don’t want to wear perfume today (that’s saying something), so I don’t.

Thursday, November 7: Still not well, but the arrival of my Luckyscent October sample pack lifts my spirits. Fresh meat, goody! By the afternoon, I’m feeling well enough to tackle them head on. Amouage Fate Woman wins my heart immediately. It’s such an enigma of a fragrance and absolutely outstanding. I love the chili in the opening and even though it’s gourmand in the dry down, I really love it.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Friday, November 8: The beautiful opening of Indult’s Manakara captures my heart: it’s a simple mix of rose and lychee, but it just gets too sweet in the drydown. Revisit Amouage Fate again in the evening and still love it so much that I’m already getting sad at the sample disappearing.

Week one has been fun, but it’s made me realise that dabbing on samples doesn’t give me the same emotional impact as spraying from a decant or a bottle. Having said that, it’s been interesting to wear something different each day.

Photo Stolen OakleyOriginals Flickr

So, APJ readers, could you wear only samples for a whole month? How would you tackle this exercise? Would you make a plan or go random? Do you have any tips for the remaining weeks?

With much love till next time!
M x

Gabriella’s Top 5 Green Scents: Malle, Annick Goutal, L’Artisan, Heeley, Hermès

October 29, 2013 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 7 Comments

Post by Gabriella

Hi APJ Friends,

It seems ludicrous to be thinking about summer fragrances in the middle of spring, but we’ve had such hot weather in Sydney recently, not to mention the awful, awful bushfires, I have been craving cool, green scents.
I thought I’d post on my top 5 verdant choices for a long hot summer

Gabriella’s Top 5 Green Scents

1. Angeliques Sous la Pluie by Jean Claude Ellena for Frederic Malle 2000

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Notes are coriander, pink pepper, cedar, angelica, juniper, musk

I don’t know about you, but coming home to a crisp cold gin and tonic after a long hot week at work is something I love. Angeliques is the olfactory equivalent where bracing juniper and the pepperiness of angelica is instantly fizzy and refreshing on warm skin. My only complaint is that this little beauty doesn’t last longer because it is beautiful and a unique take on green.

Read Portia’s Angeliques Sous la Pluie APJ post

Angeliques Sous la Pluie is available at Mecca Cosmetica starting at $124/3 x 10ml in Australia
Frederic Malle 65,00 €/3 x 10ml
Surrender to Chance has samples starting at $5/ml.

2. Eau de Camille by Annick Goutal 1983

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Notes are honeysuckle, privet, seringa, grass, false jasmine, ivy

The secret garden fragrance. Eau de Camille is striking for its use of ivy, blended with the delicate sweetness of honeysuckle. The effect is indeed like walking into a walled garden, welcoming the coolness of shade on sun warm skin. Goutal did indeed create this for her daughter Camille who wanted a fragrance that resembled the family garden. Not only did she achieve that but has also managed to capture the love and tenderness of a mother’s love. Simple, but devastatingly pretty.

Sadly, it appears that Eau de Camille had been discontinued. However, you can still find it in places and sometimes at a very good price.
It is available at Klein’s Perfumery for $155/100ml in Australia
FragranceNet has unboxed $70/100ml
Surrender to Chance has samples starting at $3/ml.

3. Fleur de Liane by Bertrand Duchafour for L’Artisan Parfumeur 2008

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Top: Sea water, green notes
Heart: Orchid, magnolia, tuberose, marigold
Base: Oakmoss, woodsy notes

Fleur de Liane’s notes list would scare most: ozone notes, marine notes, green notes and tuberose, but in Bertrand Duchafour’s hands they are transformed into an unusual tropical masterpiece. It is indeed a hyperealistic portrait of a rainforest, damp mossy floors and vines, humid white flowers and the gentlest of summer breezes through the canopy of trees.

Like Camille, Fleur de Liane is said to be discontinued.
It is still available at Luckyscent $145/100ml
FragranceNet has $52/50ml before coupon
Surrender to Chance has samples starting at $4/ml.

4. Un Jardin sur le Nil by Jean Claude Ellena for Hermes 2005

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Top: Green mango, tomato, grapefruit, carrotHeart: Orange, peony, lotus, hyacinth, bulrush
Base: Labdanum, incense, iris, musk, cinnamon

In Jardin, Jean Claude Ellena has managed to weave a myriad of complexity into what at first appears to be a simple cologne-like structure. The opening is tart and slightly citrusy before segueing into the slightly sharp herbal and bitter notes of calamus. This is tempered by the tropical sweetness of green mango before drying down to a wonderfully dry mossy wood base. Everytime I smell this, I find something different and beautfiul in its character. A bewitching and beguiling fragrance.

Jardin is available at Hermes boutiques and Peony Melbourne $150/100ml
Beauty Encounter has $62/50ml
Surrender to Chance has samples starting at $3/ml

5. Ververine by James Heeley 2001

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Top: Bergamot, cardamom, rhubarb
Heart: Lemon verbena, blackcurrent, jasmine
Base: Musk

A fresh, bracing perfume where the citrus quality of bergamot and verbena is matched by a wonderfully bitter green accord and softened by a touch of sweet jasmine. This is a perfume for those warm days when you want to embrace your inner child, pop on a white cotton dress on and squelch bare toes in cool green grass. A highly unusual and different take on the cologne theme and good for both sexes.

Verveine is available at Peony Melbourne $210/100ml
LuckyScent hasy $180/100ml and samples

Do you like green scents? What are your favourites? What scents are refreshing to you?

With much love till next time!

5 Scents That Touched Gabriella’s Soul

October 15, 2013 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 25 Comments

Post by Gabriella

Hello fragrant friends! Today’s post is inspired by something I saw recently on the Vampy Varnish makeup blog. The blogger had photographed and diarised her hair and makeup trends from an early age to the present. I thought it would be fun to present and discuss five perfumes from my past that are meaningful in some way and chronicle a bit of my perfumed history….

My Perfumed History

Five scents that have touched my soul

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

1. My first scent: Jontue by Revlon 1976

It’s 1984 and I am the tender age of nine. My family and I are in Hong Kong en route to England for my uncle’s wedding and for some reason, it’s decided that I am old enough to have my first fragrance. I remember the scene more than Jontue itself. It’s late at night and I am amazed that shops are still open, there’s the buzz and hum of the bright neon signs and the slightly salted smell of the humid night air. I’m feeling very grown up (despite my now cringeworthy sartorial choice of a orange tie-dyed jump suit to match my Mum’s one in blue). Jontue, with its powerful green and white floral elements felt exciting. Looking back, it did indeed set a trend as this remains my favourite genre.

FragranceNet has Jontue in its current formulation from $14/2.3oz EdC before discount

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

2. My first signature scent: Anais Anais by Roger Pellegrino, Robert Gonnon, Paul Leger and Raymond Chaillan for Cacharel 1978

Anais Anais was my signature for years and years. The scent of birthdays and Christmases past, often being accompanied by the beautiful matching soap and body cream. It remains a favourite to this very day, the bright green lily and hyacinth combination is irrevocably part of my identity.

Anais Anais is available at most department stores and online sellers.
Fragrance Shop has the EdT starting at $23/30ml before discount
Surrender To Chance starts at $3/ml

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

3. The occasion scent: Aromatics Elixir by Bernard Chant for Clinique 1971

My first real obsession was makeup, not perfume. My teenage years marked my first tentative foray and back then, Clinique was the brand of choice as it was seen as a safe option for young girls. The brand’s Raspberry Glace lipstick was my premiere purchase, only to be worn on weekends and most probably washed off with the Clinique 3-step skincare regime that was all the rage. Clinique of course, offered gifts with purchase which is how I discovered Aromatics Elixir. It was the scent associated with Christmas for me, as I would stock up at that time of year to get the gift. The woody aromatic chypre was so unlike anything I’d usually wear and so exciting and daring. When I found out that I was to be presented with a prize in my final year of high school, something I had waited five years for, I chose to wear this scent. Dabbed naughtily (against school rules) under my navy and white school uniform, it will forever be a scent of achievement and power for me.

Aromatics Elixir is available from most Clinique counters
Beauty Encounter has the parfum starting at $11/4ml
Surrender To Chance starts at $3/ml

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

4. The happy memory scent: Samsara by Jean-Paul Guerlain for Guerlain 1989

I was 17, I had finished school and we were spending our first Christmas away from home on a holiday in Hawaii. It was an exciting time both because the future was full of possibilities and Hawaii had more makeup and clothes and stuff to buy than I’d ever laid eyes on. By this time, Dior and Chanel and Guerlain were the brands of makeup I now chose to spend my hard earned savings on and a purchase of the latter in Hawaii was accompanied by a sample of Samsara. The beautiful combination of jasmine and sandalwood reminds me of the New Year’s Eve party at our hotel. Everyone was eating, drinking and dancing and having a great time, the air was twinkling with fairy lights and the smell of anticipation.

Samsara is available at most department stores.
FragranceNet has the EdT $36/50ml before coupon
Surrender to Chance has samples starting at $3/ml

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

5. The rabbit hole scent: Lys Mediterranee by Edouard Flechier for Frederic Malle 2000

I had started to dabble in a perfume hobby by the time the Frederic Malle range had launched in Sydney, but it was Lys Mediterranee that really pushed me over the edge. The green slightly salty, tropical lily was perfection on my skin and I knew I had found something stupendous and magical.

Lys Mediterranee is available at Mecca Cosmetica starting at $142/3 x 10ml
Surrender to Chance has samples starting at $6/ml

What did you think of my list? Did I name any favourites? What scents have a historical importance to you?

With much love till next time!
M x

Tubereuse Criminelle by Christopher Sheldrake for Serge Lutens 1999

September 24, 2013 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 15 Comments

Post by Gabriella

Hello fragrant friends!

Today I want to share my very personal story on how a bottle of a special fragrance came into my life. Almost two years ago, I was in a very bad place. I had returned to Sydney from London after recently getting engaged to Mr M. We moved in together, I was starting a new chapter with the man I loved and it should have been a tremendously happy time for me. However, one thing stood in my way: employment.

The job market for the sector I was in was particularly dire. I searched and searched and got knocked back either because I was way overqualified or just not senior enough. One month turned into two and then three and suddenly, I had been out of work for the longest time since starting in the job market at 15 packing shelves at a local grocery store.

Photo Stolen Sander van der Wel Flickr

Still, it should have been fine. Mr M was happily supporting me financially and for the first time in years, I had time to think. But therein was the rub. Work had been so much part of my existence for so long that I now defined myself through my job. Without one, I felt like I had lost my identity and furthermore, my existence. As time rolled on, I became more depressed. I mooched around, drank more, ate tons and put of masses of weight which only exacerbated my unhappiness. When Mr M came home from work, I snapped at him. I was not a very nice person to be with.

Eventually, I did get some freelance work, but it wasn’t quite enough. My birthday was coming up and I would have been out of full time work for six months by that time, something I desperately didn’t want to happen.

So on Mr M’s advice, I went to see my parents who live up in northern New South Wales. It would be a breath of fresh air, allow me to spend some quality time with my Mum and Dad and hopefully, snap me out of my black dog state.

One day, I was doing some of my freelance stuff in Dad’s study. Rummaging around his desk drawer for a pen is when I spotted it: there in the drawer was a bottle of…..

Tubereuse Criminelle by Serge Lutens 1999

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Jasmine, orange blossom, hyacinth, tuberose, nutmeg, clove, styrax, musk and vanilla

I was flabbergasted, excited and also perplexed. This was obviously my birthday present but how did Dad know to buy me this? Sure, Dad knew of my perfume love and I’d probably mentioned tuberose as a note here and there, but he certainly didn’t know Serge. And how had he discovered Tubereuse Criminelle, which at that point, had only been recently released into the export line?

I went into the kitchen to see Mum.

“Mum, don’t tell Dad, but I think I have accidentally found my birthday present.”

“Oh really?”

“Yes, the perfume in his desk drawer. But how did Dad know about it and how to get it and that I’d want Tubereuse Criminelle?”

“Well, you’ve been so very down lately darling and we know you love perfume and tuberose and all that. So Dad did some investigation online and found that this was a good one and quite hard to find. He just wanted to give you something really special to make you happy.”

Tears came to my eyes. The thought of Dad reading perfume reviews and doing background research was beyond overwhelming. I was deeply, deeply touched and thankful. It was a very special present in more ways than one. Now when I take that precious bottle out, I am reminded that good can come out of bad. The jolie laide character of Tubereuse Criminelle with the sharp mentholated opening before the full bloom of white flowers is a reminder that things do get better.

And, I’m also reminded that there is a hell of a lot more to life than work. It’s not the thing that defines me.

Photo Stolen Wikipedia

For more in-depth reviews of the scent itself, please see Bois de Jasmin and The Candy Perfume Boy.

Tubereuse Criminelle is available at
Mecca Cosmetica $166/50ml
LuckyScent $150/50ml
Surrender to Chance has samples starting at $4/.5ml.

Do you have a special story on one of your perfumes? What’s your take on Tubereuse Criminelle?

With much love till next time!

M x

5 Spring/Fall Perfume Loves: Gabriella

September 10, 2013 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 27 Comments

Post by Gabriella

Hello perfume friends!

Lately I have been suffering a little bit of there’s-nothing-I really-desperately-want-to test-right-now-and-no-new-releases-are-causing-hissy-fits-of-‘oh-I-must-have-it-even-if-my-credit-card-breaks’ kind of ennui. So, instead of shelling out for new decants and going on stupendous sniffing sprees, I have been focusing on what I already own and rediscovering why I love them.

So, today I present to you

5 Spring/Fall perfumes from my collection that “I’m Loving Right Now!”

Datura Noir by Christopher Sheldrake for Serge Lutens 2001

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Datura Noir was the first perfume I knew I’d love simply from reading the list of notes. However, upon going to test in store, the (very knowledgeable) SA recoiled in horror, exclaiming: “I have never had that smell good on anyone!” One spritz on me and her abhorrence transformed into adoration. Datura Noir is a sumptuous, creamy and smooth white floral, accentuated by notes of bitter almond. And yes, this gourmand floral is probably not for everyone but for me, it’s the carefree, slightly tropical smell of sundrenched skin on a beach in Goa.

There are rumours that Datura Noir is, or is about to be, discontinued (please share if you know more), but it is still available at
Luckyscent, $130/50ml;
Surrender to Chance has samples starting at $3.99/.5ml.

Fleurs d’Oranger by Christopher Sheldrake for Serge Lutens 2003

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Orange Blossom is a love or hate note for me. My skin tends to amplify citrus, meaning that the heady bloom can sometimes end up a hot mess. Not so with Fleurs d’Oranger. Tuberose and jasmine temper the orange blossom with their sweet, honeyed tones and the addition of cumin adds a “come closer and let me sniff you more” vibe. Fleurs also wins the prize for the perfume that has had the most negative reactionfrom another: my friend’s husband actually walked out of my house coughing and gasping for air after kissing me hello one evening (thankfully, he survived and is quite OK now).

Fleurs d’Oranger is available at
Luckyscent: $130/50ml;
Surrender to Chance has samples starting at $399/.5ml.

Lady Vengeance by Romano Ricci for Juliette Has A Gun 2006

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Mr M loves rose. I thought I did not. After Mr M and I got together, we decided to go and find a rose fragrance we would both like (come on, as if I needed an excuse to go perfume shopping!) Some roses we tested were too ripe and green, some were too dark, others too spicy and incense-y. One spritz of Lady Vengeance and we realised we’d hit the jackpot: it is the true Goldilocks rose for me. The full red bloom is tempered by the sweetness of vanilla and a a kick of patchouli. Not too green, not too sweet, not too dark, just sumptuous. Plus, the sillage on this one is simply amazing.

Lady Vengeance is available from
Luckyscent starting from $90/50ml

Le Parfum de Therese by Edmond Roudnitska for Frederic Malle 2000

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

When I am contemplating my perfumes of a morn and simply don’t know which one to wear, it is Le Parfum de Therese that usually wins. It is just such a happy and radiant perfume and unlike some others, it never gives rise to spritzing remorse a few hours in. But then, I am a big Roudnitska fangirl, and while my faves, Diorella and Diorissimo, are beyond recognition due to IFRA-induced plastic surgery, I’m very thankful that this beauty is still around.

Le Parfum de Therese is available from
Mecca Cosmetica starting from $155/3 x 10ml
Surrender to Chance has samples starting from $6.99/ml

Musc Ravageur by Maurice Roucel for Frederic Malle 2000

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

I will always remember the day I fell in love with and came to acquire Musc Ravageur. I was living in London, it was a few weeks before Christmas and I woke up to find a world blanketed in pillowy white. I had an exciting, girly day planned of shopping, perfume sniffing and getting my hair done before dinner and drinks. I dressed up and blow dried my hair to perfection only to walk out into yet another snowstorm. Whitened coat and wet hair aside, my day went as planned. One spritz of Musc takes my back to that day of joyful chaos that ended with a fabulous meal, good conversation and the twinkling of fairy lights on snow covered streets.

Musc Ravageur is available at
Mecca Cosmetica starting from $142/3 x 10ml
Surrender to Chance has samples starting from $5.99/ml.

So, have I mentioned any of your faves? What perfumes are getting a good wearing from you right now?

With much love till next time,

M x

Champaca Absolute by Tom Ford 2009

August 27, 2013 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 11 Comments

Post by Gabriella

Hello fragrant friends!

Well, we’ve been very lucky here in Sydney. It’s supposed to still be winter but we’ve had gloriously warm weather with some days reaching the mid-20 celsius level. As a result, some of my favourite winter perfumes have sadly been neglected and my big white florals that I save for the warmer months have been getting a good workout. Because of this I have been looking for something new for the summer months, something that still falls within the white floral category but has something that is just that little bit different.

Champaca Absolute by Tom Ford 2009

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accordfs:
Top: Cognac, bergamot, dyer’s greenweed
Heart: Champaca, orchid, violet, jasmine
Base: Vanilla, amber, sandalwood, marron glace

My search led me to Tom Ford’s Champaca Absolute. I thought it would be the perfect choice as I already love Tom Ford’s grandiose aesthetic and adore his Black Orchid and Velvet Gardenia. Reading reviews, I was expecting a full-blown diva of a scent akin to the others. Champaca Absolute opens with a big blast of sweet booziness which quickly recedes before the bergamot and champaca come out to play. The citrus tempers the sweetness of the champaca and lends a joyous feel to the composition. One pictures the regal blooms of magnolia petals warmed by spring’s first rays of golden sunshine; their petals creamy but haughty, holding their poise within the liquid warmth and sprays of dust motes in the air.

Photo Stolen Allen McGregor Flickr

About half an hour in, the jasmine comes to the fore, further sweetening the composition. It is at this point where the perfume becomes lush, heady and vibrant. Despite the sweetness and fullness, Champaca Absolute still remains supremely elegant. It is very much a ladylike perfume and wouldn’t be out of place with a grey cashmere twinset and pearls.

The drydown, on my skin is still champaca, but with just a dab of vanilla. It quietens down quite considerably and I really don’t get the rich gourmand facets that many others speak of.

What I love most about Champaca Absolute is a sense of nostalgia. It takes me back to being eight years old, in my grandmother’s bathroom in England. It was my first trip overseas and it was a big adventure. She has lots of gorgeous bath and body products that I adored to sniff and explore and each morning, after her bath, I’d go in to wash my hands before going out for the day and the humid air would be filled with the most gloriously bright floral scent; a melange of my grandmother’s bath gel and dusting powder. Champaca Absolute is that smell to me.

Photo Stolen betterhomeandgarden

My only disappointment is that it’s not as loud or diva-esque as I’d expected. It wears extremely close to my skin and I want just that little bit more sillage and oomph. Perhaps it will when the mercury gets a bit higher. I expect hot flesh will give me that vava voom I so crave. If that happens, Champaca Absolute will be perfection.

Further reading: Perfume Smellin’ Things and Bois de Jasmin.
Champaca Absolute is available at David Jones in Australia $290/50ml (Most big city department stores with an Estee Lauder counter)
Surrender to Chance has samples starting at $4/.5ml.

Have you tried Champaca Absolute? What are your favourite Tom Ford fragrances?

With much love till next time,
M

Mini Perfume Making Course with Julie Nelson of Aromatique Essentials

August 13, 2013 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 9 Comments

Post by Gabriella

Hi APJ,

Last Saturday, I was given a terrific opportunity to embrace some scented creativity by the one and only Miss Portia. She couldn’t attend a perfume making course with aromatherapist and creator of the Aromatique Essentials perfume line, Julie Nelson, due to work commitments and nominated me to go in her place.

The session was at Julie’s house in Blackheath in the Blue Mountains, about two hours’ drive west from Sydney. I was graciously offered a lift by the wonderful Catherine du Peloux Menagé, a perfume consultant and the organiser of the Sydney Perfume Lovers meetup group. Catherine and I had met many years ago at the launch of the Frederic Malle range in Sydney and I was one of her first perfume consulting ‘guinea pigs’. We have recently become reacquainted and it was wonderful to share and swap perfume stories on the trip.

Mini Perfume Making Course with

Julie Nelson of Aromatique Essentials

During the morning session, Julie described her love for natural perfumery and the reasons why she took up aromatherapy and the natural way. If you have been reading the blog, you’ll know that the main catalyst behind Julie’s vocation was her daughter, who was born premature and then diagnosed with a rare lung condition. Julie’s story of all the struggles and love particularly resonated with me as I was also three months premature back in 1974 and also given not much chance. Listening to her, I felt very thankful to be happy and healthy some 39 years later. Catherine, Julie and I were joined by a quartet of lovely bright young things: the bubbly Dimi and Monique, the inquisitive Sophy, and Teal, a lovely lass who had decided to embrace aromatherapy after coming to a crossroads in her life.

Photo: Homemade meringues with edible rose petals for morning tea

After lunch, we got on to the creative part of the session: making our own scents. As someone who has loved contemporary perfumes for a long time, I was intrigued about exploring essential oils and having the chance to create my own scent rather than writing about others. Julie brought out her vast collection, a virtual menagerie of smells for the enthusiast. I was especially keen to try the musty herbaceous oakmoss and of course, the tuberose, which didn’t disappoint with the sharp mentholated opening segueing into buttery creamy goodness.

Photo: Some of the oils we were working with

Before I start on the creative process, I should point out that while natural perfume making is about combining essential oils, it changes depending on what base or carrier you use. Julie had said earlier that she used oils such as jojoba or a mix of almond, sunflower and macadamia for perfumes to be dabbed on the skin. For spray versions, as the ones we were creating, a variety of bases could be used from vodka to spring water, floral waters or a hydrosol, which is the first 30 per cent of a floral water gleaned from the distillation process, such as rose or orange blossom.

Photo: The lovely Julie explaining her process

Before we started mixing, Julie asked us five questions to work out what kind of blend would suit us: What was our favourite colour? What was our favourite food? What were our favourite types of smells? What were our favourite leisure activities? What feeling did we want to have wearing the perfume we had created?

My answers were: red; cheese and anything that satiated the umami taste; white florals, aldehydes and aromatic greens; reading walking and anything perfume related; confidence.

Julie advocated a blend of petitgrain, jasmine, ylang ylang, oakmoss and patchouli for me and a number of other oils for the other ladies in the group. We then got to work. My resulting perfume was rather lovely, a very soft and pretty white floral with a slight aromatic tinge from the petitgrain and oakmoss and anchored by a dry chocolately patchouli.

Photo: Monique and Dimi at work

We had terrific fun blending and sniffing and perfecting, all capped off with a beautiful glass of champagne with raspberries. All in all, a fabulous day out and some wonderful insights into an area of perfumery I hadn’t explored before.

Have you tried natural perfumes or do you use essential oils? Have you tried any of Julie’s line?

With much love till next time,

M x

Top 5 Perfume Wishlist 2013

July 23, 2013 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 36 Comments

Post by Gabriella

As many of you know, I had a bit of a cleanout of my collection last weekend, thanks to the terrific APJ sniff-together at Portia’s. Early on this journey, I made the mistake that many of us do, buying stuff too quickly without ample skin time or just falling prey to the thought: “Oh my god, everyone else loves this, I need to have it.”

Well, I’ve now gone back to basics. I will only acquire full bottles of fumes that have worn the test of time, the ones that when they hit my skin again and again are greeted with an enthusiastic “YES!” Samples and decants only for the ones that intrigue and stuff I just want to test and write about.

So, let’s just pretend that last’s week’s sale gave me enough money to buy five brand new bottles. What are those loves that I need to get?

Gabriella’s Top 5 Perfume Wishlist 2013

Bubblegum Chic by James Heeley for Heeley 2011

Jasmine is one white floral that doesn’t usually agree on my skin, but here it is perfect. Bubblegum Chic is playful green jasmine made more narcotic with the addition of tuberose. The name is apt as it’s playful and vampy at the same time. It’s that nonchalant, happy girl at work that once you get to know her has a hefty dose of je ne sais quoi.

Bubblegum Chic is available at Peony Melbourne $275/50ml Extrait de Parfum and Luckyscent $230/50ml Extrait de Parfum; Surrender to Chance has samples starting at $7/.5ml

Fleurissimo by James Henry Creed for Creed 1956

A lovely perfumista friend said I’d love it back when I was getting started in this game. Many years and bottles later, she’s still right. Grace Kelly associations aside, this is a magnificently elegant and understated white floral that just oozes sophistication.

Fleurissimo is available at Libertine Parfumerie $259/75ml; Surrender to Chance has samples starting at $3/.5ml.

Lady Caron by Richard Fraysse for Caron 2000

Very much an unloved gem in my opinion, this perfume just makes me incredibly happy. It’s a floral chypre, but here the usual peach is replaced with raspberry, rounded out with jasmine and moss. Lady Caron is truly golden sunlight on skin. It also reminds me of those times my parents had proper dinner parties back when I was a little girl. It’s the wonderful melange of smells on my pajamas after kissing and hugging the beautifully dressed female guests. Comforting but very elegant.

Lady Caron is available at Luckyscent $95/50ml; The Perfumed Court samples start at $3/ml

Tubereuse by Richard Fraysse for Caron 2003

You already know why thanks to my last review. But this is also very special to me for the very reason that it was the first fragrance I bought on my first romantic getaway to Paris with my gorgeous Mr M.

Tubereuse by Caron is available at LuckyScent, which has the EDP for $130/50ml and the parfum extrait for $150/15ml; Surrender to Chance has samples of the parfum starting at $5/.5ml

Tubereuse Couture by Pierre Guillame for Parfumerie Generale 2009

All you oriental/vanilla/patchouli/vetiver lovers must be shaking your heads and rolling your eyes about now, thinking “not another goddamn tuberose!!” but yes, more is more for me when it comes to the vampy flower. Tubereuse Couture like the aforementioned Caron is also a little bit of a sleeper when it comes to the genre, but it is divine. Here, sugar cane and banana leaf lend a lovely tropical vibe, but make no mistake, this is a scent for ballgowns, not the beach.

Tubereuse Couture is available at Luckyscent $100/50ml; Surrender to Chance has samples starting at $4.99/ml

So there you have it! My wishlist of loves. What would your wishlist look like?

With much love till next time!
M x