La Panthère by Mathilde Laurent for Cartier 2014

October 11, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 5 Comments

Post by Anne-Marie

I first tried La Panthère in an airport hotel in Sydney. My colleague and I had missed a connecting flight to our home city. It was late, and we were tired and cross. But in the end I thought there seemed nothing for it but to relax, have a shower, order room service, and crack open a Cartier mini set I’d bought in Paris at Charles de Gaulle airport. Fun

It happened that I did not have internet access that evening, so I was testing blind.

La Panthère by Cartier 2014

La Panthère by Mathilde Laurent

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Rhubarb, strawberry, dried fruits, anise, bergamot
Heart: Gardenia, orange blossom, pear, rose, ylang ylang
Base: Musk, oakmoss, patchouli, leather

In the absence of this information I panicked a bit because the opening of La Panthère seemed strident, almost screechy. It reminded me of fragrances I dislike including Dior’s J’Adore and Miss Dior Cherie, and Chanel’s Coco Mademoiselle. I thought I’d made a mistake. But during the night as I woke up momentarily here and there I was delighted in a drowsy way with what I could smell: a very intimate scent of warm contented skin, not animalic, but sexy as hell.

Photo Stolen Flickr

Gardenia is not something I know well, either as a flower or a perfume note so I can’t comment much on its use here except that I like it. And what saves La Panthère for me in particular is its chypre-like character. A lot of reviewers find it a chic, elegant, intelligent fragrance and I agree. Fruity chypre it may be, but La Panthère is too vivid and modern to really stand comparison with classical greats like Guerlain’s Mitsouko or Rochas’ Femme. It’s cleaner than YSL’s Yvresse and more supple than Badgely Mischka, which seems lugubrious next to La Panthère.

That brightness stays all the way through the life of the fragrance on my skin, and a few generous dabs from a mini lasts me ALL DAY. I could be extra-sensitive to notes like strawberry, rhubarb and pear – normally I hate them – and that’s maybe why La Panthère won’t quite leave me alone. I like it very much but by the end of the day I’m often rather tired of it.

Photo Stolen Flickr

Showering it off is like kicking off a pair of gorgeous but tight little shoes. Ahhh, that’s better. Looking back, I’m surprised I slept so well that first night I wore La Panthère . Like the shoes, La Panthère is wonderful to put on and wonderful to take off.

Further reading: Bois de Jasmin and Perfume Posse
FragranceNet has $83/50ml before Coupon
My Perfume Samples has $3/ml to $9/5ml

Do you have a ‘chic little shoe’ fragrance?

Until next time, keep spritzing!
Anne-Marie xx

Cartier – La Panthère, the feminine fragrance

Ellenisia by Steve de Mercado for Penhaligons 2005

October 8, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 14 Comments

Post by Gabriella

Hello perfume lovers!

It’s often said that happiness comes when reality beats expectations. This can happen as much in the perfume world as anywhere else, especially now when we’re faced with rave blog reviews or when there’s a new release by one of our favourite brands or perfumers.

Today I want to talk about a beautiful perfume that has fallen short for me, not because it is not good – quite the opposite – but because I have built up my expectations about it over several years, actually having it and wearing it doesn’t match those expectations. That scent is Ellensia by Penhaligon’s.

Ellenisia by Penhaligons 2005

Ellenisia by Steve de Mercado

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica lists these following accords:
Top: Mandarin orange, violet leaf
Middle: Jasmine, gardenia, rose, tuberose
Base: Plum, vanilla

The weight of expectations for poor old Ellenisia was built up a long time ago. At the earliest stages of my perfume wanderings, when I was skulking round the perfume boards on Makeupalley, board members were raving about it as the most gorgeous white floral. As the perfume was unobtainable in Australia back then, it became even more coveted and desirable to me. My desire only grew when people said it was a better version of Chanel Gardenia.

Time went on and then Penhaligon’s made an appearance at our local department store but a bottle was way beyond my budget. I’d go in often and spritz some Ellenisia on a blotter to get my fix of the fume and delight in the sensual, heady but very playful gardenia and tuberose mix.

Photo Stolen Wikipedia

This happened for a while, until of course, other perfumed delights came my way and Ellenisia was temporarily forgotten.

Fast forward to last year. I had just moved to Melbourne and I am out of work. Again, a bottle of Penhaligon’s is too expensive and out of my reach. Again, I covet it more than anything.

A couple of months ago, I finally pull the trigger. After more than a decade, the object of my rapture is finally in my hot little hands and I can’t wait to wear it. I am carefully unwrapping the cellophane from the pink cardboard box and lifting the little glass cap that sits so prettily atop a pink ribbon, I press the atomiser and….nothing. For sure, Ellenisia was pretty, it was the same gorgeous mix of gardenia and tuberose, given depth by the mandarin and plum but not too sweet, thanks to the greenness of the violet leaf. It was nice, but it didn’t rock my world like it had in my head time and time again. Mr M says I smell pretty and I do, but I can’t help feeling something’s missing. I’ve ruined my own perfect scent, I have built it up too much in my mind, building it up and up and up that it can’t help but fall short. Hopefully, as I continue to wear it, my expectations will fade to the background and the beauty that is this gorgeous white floral will come to the fore, unencumbered by the prospects in my mind.

Photo Stolen Pixabay

Further reading: EauMG and Mimi Froufrou
Libertine Parfumerie has $239/100ml
Luckyscent has $4/0.7ml

Have you ruined a perfectly gorgeous scent through the weight of your expectations? Conversely, what perfumes have you set the bar really low for that have subsequently rocked your world?

With much love till next time.

M x

Best Stress Relief Scents

October 7, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 6 Comments

Post by Suzanne R Banks

Often smelling something is enough to create change in emotions and stress addiction because scent works powerfully on our mind, body and brain function. Stress can become a habit that we get used to rather than a trigger to help us survive, and in turn we get adrenal and cortisol overload. This is not good! Smell something good to break your habitual mind reactions.

Best Stress Relief Scents

Photo stolen Pixabay

Stress Relief: Marjoram

Oreganum marjorana

Little leaf, big scent, great results. Marjoram has been used in herbal medicine for centuries, and comes from a time when our food was our medicine. This beautiful herb essential oil will help everyone from babies to the elderly with its stunning aromatic medicine.

Photo Stolen Wikipedia

Keyword: relief

Marjoram is wonderful for:
grief
any kind of physical stress
soothing emotional pain and angst
help induce sleep
muscle pain
period pain
headaches

Stress Relief: Frankincense

Boswellia carterii

Another botanical substance that has been used for a long time, made popular by stories from the Bible, is a must have for stress relief. This essential oil which is steam distilled from the resin has a deeply calming effect by inducing longer, slower, deeper breaths. This leads to a meditative state of mind creating Alpha brainwaves to help you chill out.

Photo Stolen Flickr

Keywords: meditation, truth, preservation

Frankincense is great for:
restful sleep
meditation
relaxing
connecting to your youthfulness
helping us see the bigger picture
moving us away from a busy mind
asthma attacks and sufferers
coughing and not being able to breathe very well

Stress Relief: Chamomile

German Chamomile (Matricaria recutita) and Roman Chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile)

Both chamomiles are wonderful for stress relief but work in slightly different ways and have distinctly different scents. Roman chamomile has an intense honey-like sweetness whereas German chamomile is very deeply herbaceous.

Photo Stolen Pixabay

Keywords: cool down and less tension more inspiration

German chamomile is good for:
restlessness
inducing sleep
settling anger
emotional healing
reducing inflammation in the body
physical heat

Roman chamomile is good for
soothing tiredness
softening inflexibility
relaxing the body as a whole
allowing tension to subside
reducing cramping in the body

The best and easiest way to use the oils is to open the bottle and take a whiff, also in oil burners or even if you put your foot over the shower drain and a few drops in, breathe deep.

If you’re wondering why I haven’t included lavender in this article it’s because I know that you know it’s a really great oil for stress relief – well done!

Check out my YouTube Channel too, thanks.
Suzanne R Banks xx

Suzanne R Banks Blog
Suzanne R Banks Aromatherapy
Suzanne R Banks FaceBook

Please check out my new book REVELATION! – Reveal Your Destiny with Essential Oils

Amazon USA Amazon AU Amazon UK

September: full of luck and love.

October 6, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 19 Comments

Post by Ainslie Walker

September: full of luck and love.

I was a lucky lady during September: surviving a car accident, winning a bottle of perfume AND finding a favorite fragrance dramatically discounted. It’s been peculiar experiencing first hand, concussion and shock. My sense of smell was fortunately still intact after a big bump to the head, even stronger for some time– apparently due to primal instincts of “fight or flight.”

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

TWO bottles of discounted Maison Martin Margiela – Untitled were awaiting me in packages when I arrived home from hospital and I wore nothing but for days. Perfectly strange, earthy and uplifting, it suited my surreal state.

Margiela’s intention was to reinterpret greenery after rain. It gives me the feeling of holding my face up to the sky and it being washed with big plodding drops of fresh rain. Ahhhhhh the ultimate cleanse. I visualize fresh, wet, pounding summer rain running off bending plants, yet a musky, sweet white floral heart is present all the while. Lurking in the undergrowth is the better parts of the smell of smoking. Not tobacco. Just mysterious smoke. Galbanum, fierce and green is complimented perfectly with bittersweet orange. Jasmine adds sumptuous pretty, floral and sweet notes that cedar and musk bring back to earth, deepening and giving an irresistible otherworldly edge.

Gorgeously avant-garde, listed as containing boxwood, galbanum, bitter orange, incense, jasmine, cedar and musk. Apparently no vetiver, however it’s a definite must try for vetiver fans. A scent that rarely gets a mentioned on fragrance forums, yet for me is stand out, always receiving numerous compliments. Completely unisex – in fact my dad has already “borrowed” one of my bottles!

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

From my hospital bed I entered Mona di Orio’s instagram competition and a few days later I received notification I had won!! Completely spaced out, I pondered my weird week’s luck. The full bottle of Rose Etoile de Hollande, beautifully packaged (old packaging) was with me within a few days from Europe – a very generous gift. Named after the worlds most fragrant climbing rose species, which Mona studied, growing outside her window in Cabris, France. I had never smelt it before, yet doused myself in it recklessly. A spine-tingling, sparkling, deep rose hit my system. Aldehydic, reminding me of the rich rose component of vintage Chanel Number 5. I am pleased by the natural tones and earthiness in the heart of this fragrance. I feel as if my nose is buried deep deep inside the bosom of a red rose. Deep enough to even smell the fizzy peachiness of its just forming fruit. It is beyond than that though; with additional layers transpiring over time. Smoky eugenol (clove), cedar, patchouli and leather contribute an edgy and carnal feel to this voluptuous beauty. Eventually it powders down, yet remains fiercely rosy sparkling into the evening like a vast and starry night.

How was your September? Do you love fragrances that take you from planet earth to elsewhere in 1 sniff? Which are you favorites?

Escentric 01 by Geza Schoen for Escentric Molecules 2006

October 5, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 1 Comment

Post by Willa Zheng

Not to be confused with Molecules 01, its legendary single-note sibling, Escentric 01 (the one with barcodes printed on the bottle) is the most underrated ‘clean’ fragrance on the market. Yes, there is a devil-may-care overdose of Iso E Super (65% according to Luckyscent) but Molecules 01’s overlooked sibling is much much more (and superior) than that ol’ cedarwood note.

Escentric 01 by Escentric Molecules 2006

Escentric 01 by Geza Schoen

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Amalfi lemon, pink pepper, iris, iso e super

Escentric 01 is a linear, long lasting (10hrs+) EDT that has become the everyday fragrance I reach for it when I want to smell clean, not distracting, and yet contains just enough soothing and grounding notes to make me feel contemplative. Yes reader, this is another study/writing scent.

Photo Stolen Wikipedia

It smells of a fresh, green (lime peel), woody-peppery, clean-musk fragrance that reminds you of laundry powder and good personal hygiene. It’s one of those skin-scent fragrances that meld with the chemistry of the wearer, but unlike normal skin-scents, this one you do not need to press your nose close in order to catch a whiff. Thanks to the high concentration of Iso E Super, Escentric 01 lifts and amplifies the natural notes contained on your skin (musk and amber in my case), projecting them with surprising tenacity. This is probably not a good fragrance to wear if you eat a lot of garlic and curry.

But make no mistake, this fragrance is very woody – like breathing in cedarwood dust if you were to press your nose to the sprayed surface. The dry, dusty woods is counterbalanced by a sheer, watery quality, not dissimilar to Jean-Claude Ellena. If Hermes and Jean-Claude Ellena started a diffusion line for the cool kids of Brooklyn, this might have been it.

Photo Stolen Pixabay

Further reading: Now Smell This and Katie Puckrik
First In Fragrance has €115/100ml
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $4/ml

From LuckyScent: Second only to its sister scent Molecule 01, Escentric 01 boasts the highest concentration of the aroma chemical Iso E Super ever to be used in perfumery (65%)…… The tart lime and zesty pink pepper are a sparkling shot into the dark heart of Escentric 01’s moody, soft wood nature, while orris incense adds a dash of smoky incense and turns up the heat. Emotional and dazzling.

Have you tried anything from the Escentric Molecules Escentric line?
Willa

L’Amoureuse by Emilie Bouge for Brecourt 2010

September 30, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 6 Comments

Post by Trésor

(Ed: BTW Here’s the link to a story about Trésor in the Mac Campaign)

There are a handful of categories in fragrance which are often maligned by those whom may consider themselves connoisseurs of haute parfumerie (myself very much included) but there is one particular climate of olfactory exploration which may well get a bum rap that’s worse than them all: the fruity floral. The fruity floral has become somewhat ubiquitous and while that ubiquity can often come with a sense of fragrant ennui there can also be a sense of comfort and familiarity captured within these dulcet vapours. Just as I’d been delving into some research of the genre to further my understanding it so happened that I was fortuitous enough to receive a package from a dear friend, one which contained a very generous sample of L’Amoureuse from the Parisian house of Brecourt, easily one of the most exquisite compositions in the genre I’ve had the pleasure of wearing along my scented journey this far.

L’Amoureuse by Brecourt 2010

L’Amoureuse by Emilie Bouge

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, lemon, tangerine, black currant
Heart: Rose, jasmine, violets, raspberries
Base: Peach, lily, musk

L’Amoureuse opens on my skin with the sumptuous bravura of juicy blackcurrant, each berry positively glistening with rich and nectarous dew. The narcotic aroma of jasmine and her petals of luxurious ivory permeate the airspace alongside the citric effervescence of glowing tangerine, a combination which somehow reminds me of a smell from my childhood; the redolent aroma of a particular shampoo or other such potion that perpetuates the most splendid notion of lighthearted nostalgia. As the composition progresses the lush magenta petals of a blooming rose bouquet unfold and radiate their glowing aurora throughout the exquisite menagerie of aromas which preceded. The lambent sweetness of ripe peach amplifies the utter ebullience of delectably fruity damascones and makes way for the most unbelievably comforting drydown. A plush cloud of sensuous white skin musks alongside the delicate warmth of rich sandalwood are what remain after the spellbinding floridity of the heart begin to fade. It is in this splendid embrace that L’Amoureuse finally becomes one with the skin and exists as but a fond memory.

Photo Stolen Wikipedia

With L’Amoureuse I get a moderate degree of sillage, nothing particularly huge but by no means existing within the realm of a skin scent. Longevity is about the same for me as well, I get a good 6 to 8 hours of wear before the fragrance disappears entirely on my skin though I am certain on warmer days I may very well be able to get a solid 10. I think L’Amoureuse would be the absolute ideal transition scent for someone making the journey from wearing only mainstream releases into the world of niche. It is wonderfully elegant, delightfully well made and created with a sense of familiarity that I think even those completely new to fragrance would find very appealing.

Photo Stolen Pixabay

Further reading: Scent For Thought
First In Fragrance have €69/50ml & samples
IndieScents have $85/50ml & samples

What fragrance would you recommend to somebody taking their first steps into the world of niche?

Until next time, my darlings.

Trésor, xx.

A Full Speed Perfume Trip Around the USA Photo Essay

September 29, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 51 Comments

Post by Val the Cookie Queen

A Full Speed Perfume Trip Around the U S and A

Seattle. San Francisco. Los Angeles. New York.

I do not know where to begin. Everyone that I met in the US were absolutely amazing. They took time out of their schedules to meet up, made me and my family so welcome, showed us around the cities and were generally mind-blowing. I was so touched. A lot of it is personal and has no place on a blog. However over the months I will include things that happened as there are perfumed tales to tell. I am not too reliable at taking pictures, but I hope you enjoy the few that follow. New York was so much fun that nobody even remembered to take photos. An absolute highlight was meeting Azar of APJ. I have many samples of perfume to brighten up my winter.

The one question I have been asked by a number of people is did I find anything new that really impressed me. I absolutely did. It will be my
next post. You will have to tune in again.

Jetlagged Bussis
CQ

Perfume Trip Around the U S and A

Photo Essay

Sniffing Ellen Covey´s überfragrant Cattleya orchid. iIhad NO idea how narcotic an orchid could be.

The very elegant Azar. Australian Perfume Junkie´s very own!

One of Ellen´s orchids.

Ellen and her husband and a basket of Azar´s homegrown tomatoes.

Me with Mary. A San Franciscan perfumista and Verophile.

Part of Ellen Covey of Olympic Orchids work materials.

A not very clear picture of the beautiful Virgina of Té de Violetas.

Shelley Waddington of En Voyage and Mary on the comfy sofa in Tiger Lily.

Antonia. Owner of Tiger Lily in San Francisco. Such a charming store.

Ellen Covey’s Olympic Orchids shelf!

Leaving Twisted Lily in Brooklyn. Daisy from Coolcookstyle leading the way. The charming Arielle of Scents of Self and of Arielle Shoshanna Scented Luxuries.

Mary, Virginia and me trucking`through San Francisco.

The most beautiful toffee apples I have ever seen. Seattle.

Ellen showing a tiny orchid in her greenhouse.

Jtd Jtd of Scenthurdle. Los Angeles.

Hannah the BlondesWunder in the makeup store at midnight. NYC.

Carlos Powell of Peace, Love and Perfume having a dhosa for lunch. NYC.

Hannah me and Daisy. Daisy organized a New York perfumista extravaganza for me. However what happened in New York, stays in New York.

Laundry rates in then hotel we stayed in. NYC.

Tonka beans in a golden bag. On the recommendation of Barbara Herman, author of Scent and Subversion. An old voodoo spell. brings love and luck. I have left one in the bag and the rest I shall use in my baking.

Tiger Lily.

Twisted Lily.

Inside Twisted Lily..

Hannah learning how to use and umbrella. Outside Twisted Lily.

Two with Connor

Selfie. Val and Undina. San Francisco.

(ED: This is the mad, disjointed and crazed order these pics were sent. Nobody got time to organise this lot, clearly not even Val)

Todd Oldham by Parlux 1995

September 28, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 26 Comments

Post by Azar

Hello APJ,

This week I am revisiting my favorite family in the Parlux clan, the boozy, amber-y, fruity scents originating with Anne Klein II ( 1985 by Yves Tauguy), continuing to Todd Oldham (1995 by Jeffrey Dame et. al.) and finishing with Todd’s “daughters” (so to speak), Queen Latifah (2009) and Jessica Simpson Fancy Nights (2010), both by perfumer Steve DeMercado. This particular Parlux – Five Star Fragrance family template never seems to die. It is re-born and reformulated, renamed, repackaged and sent out into the world every decade or so to recapture our imaginations and put yet another small dent in our pocket books. Obviously I don’t have the space to write about the whole family today so I will limit myself to the second generation – Todd Oldham.

Todd Oldham by Parlux 1995

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, mandarin orange, peach
Heart: Jasmine, cinnamon, rose, fruity notes
Base: Musk, sandalwood, patchouli, amber, benzoin

Let me tell you a little about Todd Oldham:
In case you missed the 1990s (or were still dusting cobwebs off the moon at the time) Todd Oldham, designer of super fun and funky fashions, launched his first clothing line in 1989 and was hugely successful in ready to wear throughout the 90s. These days he continues to surprise and delight us with his interior designs and creative crafts for children and adults. This week I have been busy insulating the greenhouse with bubble wrap and found Todd Oldham’s video on creating t-shirt designs with this same bubbly material to be timely and appealing.

Todd Oldham the fragrance was put together in 1994/95 by the designer himself with the help of Jeffrey Dame, then VP of Sales and Marketing at Parlux.

Here are my perceived notes: Peach and Bananas! Over-ripe, dark, sweet bananas combined with squishy peach, at bit of orange and something oudy and woody. The opening is luscious and thick, a scent reminiscent of orchards at harvest time, redolent of rich, heavy, fruits verging on ferment and decay. This boozy fruit cocktail cools to banana cream pie perfumed with patchouli and spiced with cinnamon. As Todd Oldham dries down he morphs into one of my favorite synthetic flavors – banana Popsicle. This effect is much lighter than the initial peachy/banana/woody blast but still a far cry from my granddaughter’s fruitchouli! The sticky Popsicle lingers for several hours before it melts and warms again into a balsamic and amber-y confection with hints of rose and sandalwood.

Todd Oldham, although not as insistent as “daughter” Queen Latifah, is still a powerhouse fragrance. One spritz extends well beyond my personal space for at least an hour before settling down for the long haul, 8 hours or more on skin and forever on clothing.

Now back to the bubble wrap! Azar xx

Photo Stolen manoneileen

Todd Oldham GIVEAWAY

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

Today’s giveaway: There are two prizes.

One US resident winner will receive one extremely cute, 6.5 ml, boxed, vintage Todd Oldham EdP mini.

One NON US winner will receive one 2ml decant spray of Todd Oldham EdP and one 1ml decant of vintage Anne Klein II EdP.

HOW DO YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me (portia underscore turbo @ yahoo dot com dot au) so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

To be eligible please tell us how you follow APJ and if you are inside or outside the US.

Also give us your take on any of the fragrances mentioned in today’s post or a fave from the 1990s.

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Thursday 1st October 2015 10pm Australian EST and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winner will be chosen by random.org
The winner will have till Sunday 4th October 2015 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

Beauty You (might) Need To Translate!

September 27, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 5 Comments

Post by A F Beauty

Allow me a moment of comedy:

What do you call someone who speaks three or more languages?

Multi-lingual

What do you call someone who speaks two languages?

Bi-lingual

What do you call someone who speaks one language?

English!

Beauty You (might) Need To Translate!

Yes, so my heritage is English and I speak only one language, to my shame. What this does mean though is that there is a whole selection of beauty products where my purchasing choices are dependent on guess, hint or, if I’m lucky, a translation sticker on the back of the product! So here’s a couple of products I’ve bought on hint or guess which have been amazing:

Hada Labo Tamagohada AHA and BHA Exfoliating Cleanser – Japanese

Luckily for me, this was positioned front and centre in a pharmacy in Singapore with AHA and BHA in the largest letters on the pack, so I was immediately drawn to it. My skin copes pretty well with acid treatments, so I figured that it would also be OK with the cleanser. It’s texture is not dissimilar to Estee Lauder Perfectly Clean – but it is slightly softer and lathers easier. But the exciting part of this product is that the moment you wipe your skin clean, it is C-L-E-A-N – you have properly exfoliated without any abrasion –your skin is smoooooooth and lovely. I use this about once a week almost as a treatment rather than daily – I personally think my skin wouldn’t tolerate it so well on a daily basis – the acids are more powerful than any other I’ve bought in a cleanser. I’ve had the pack for just over a year and it’s still going (even though I bought three on a whim!)

Hwansaenggo Bird’s Nest Pearly Brightening Gel Mask – Korean

This purchase was a pure guess under time pressure – the shop was about to close and I wanted to buy everything, as usual. So I picked up a few bits that caught my eye, and lets face it, Heaven Grade Ginseng – who wouldn’t want this!?

I cracked this mask out of the pack – it’s like an actual mask that sits on the face, you don’t apply it per-se. I peeled off the backing layer and applied to my face thinking it was a bit crinkly with the other plastic layer on it and thought it wasn’t sitting very well against my skin – and then it dawned on me that duh, I was supposed to remove both plastic layers. Genius. I’m here to make the mistakes so you don’t have to!

The mask then sat lovely against my face, felt lovely and soft and smelled good. After about an hour – probably double than advised (I was watching TV!), I peeled off and my skin looked great. Definitely plumper and fuller – this would be a great mask to apply before a big night out.

I totally love the excitement of finding a new product, especially one that hasn’t been translated into English, I feel like I’ve found a secret that no one knows! I’ve got a few more of these in test at the moment, will tell you about a few more next time – but what secret buys have you found?
A F Beauty XXX

Fig-tea by Patricia de Nicolai for Nicolai Parfumeur Createur 2007

September 27, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 6 Comments

Post by Anne-Marie

Love at first sniff: Fig-tea by Patricia de Nicolai for Nicolai Parfumeur Createur 2007

Do you trust love at first sight? Or sniff? On the whole, I don’t. Still, when I smelled Fig-tea in a Nicolai boutique in Paris recently, there was no question that it was coming home with me.

Fig-tea by Nicolai Parfumeur Createur 2007

Fig-tea by Patricia de Nicolai

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Fig, osmanthus, artemisia
Heart: Mate, coriander, jasmine
Base: Guaiac wood, amber

When I was a kid we had an apricot tree in the backyard, and after a swim in the pool I would gorge myself on ripe apricots, water still dripping off me and apricot juice running all over my fingers. This was what I remembered when I first sniffed Fig-tea. I could see, smell and taste apricots so clearly I think I must have laughed with delight, right in front of the (very dishy) young male SA in the Nicolai boutique. He was amused, in typically cool Parisian style, but really I was paying him no attention. It was apricots, sunshine, and the kind of happiness you are still too young to treasure because life has so far delivered no stings.

Photo Stolen Flickr

Osmanthus is known for its apricot facet, so it must be is osmanthus that delivers me this powerful memory of apricots ripening in the sun. I’m probably the wrong person to review this fragrance because I smell no fig at all in Fig-Tea. Most people do, but not me. I know what fig smells like as fresh fruit and in perfume, but here I just don’t get it. So don’t ask me if the fig is nuanced with creamy coconut, leaves, earth, or just the fruit. I wouldn’t know.

A number of notes combine to prevent the apricot – so prominent for me – from becoming too syrupy-sweet: mate tea, coriander, and … ahem … calone. Do you hate calone? Yes, me too. Calone is not listed as a note in Fig-tea and you might not smell it at all. I can detect it in parts per billion and I do smell it in Fig-tea. But it’s subtle. It pulls the fragrance in a refreshing direction and after its opening few minutes, Fig-Tea is brisk and cool, slightly salty, and skews unisex.

For reference, Carthusia puts out a fig-tea fragrance named Io Capri. Here I do smell fig quite clearly, rather tart, and accompanied by notes of citrus, tea, mint and eucalyptus. ‘Seaweed’ in the base contributes a briny accent not unlike the calone in Fig-Tea. But Io Capri is rough, outdoorsy and a little strident compared to the walled-garden Parisian refinement of Nicolai’s Fig-tea.

Photo Stolen Wikipedia

Fig-tea was released by Nicolai as an Eau Fraiche but these days is listed as an EDT. Sillage is moderate, but longevity on me is about five hours, at least. Although a warm weather fragrance, at the height of summer I still expect to reach for the invigorating freshness of Io Capri.
Figs, apricots, tea, tangy breezes and sweet memories. It’s amazing what will come out of a perfume bottle.

Further reading: Best Things In Beauty and This Side Of Perfume
Luckyscent has $130/100ml and samples

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Until next time, keep spritzing!
Anne-Marie xx

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