Top 5 Department Store Scents: Gabriella

August 27, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 21 Comments

Post by Gabriella

Hello perfumed peeps! I must admit that I have felt a bit out of the perfume scene of late. Being out of work until just last week and watching my pennies has meant that I’ve tried to resist the temptation of buying new samples or reading online forums or a blog post that may have me craving a new scent.

However, it’s also taught me that enjoying perfume doesn’t have to be an expensive exercise. I’ve been quite happy just going into stores and spritzing to my heart’s content – no credit card necessary. It also got me thinking that I’m lucky that I have access to and can afford niche scents. But what if this wasn’t the case? If I could only have department store fragrances, what would be my picks?
So here, I present to you my…..

Top 5 Department Store Scents

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

1. Anais Anais L’Original by Cacharel 2014

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Hyacinth, galbanum, orange blossom
Heart: Jasmine, rose, lily
Base: Sandalwood, cedar, incense, amber
I’ve mentioned my love for this previously and have been wearing it happily ever since that post. Anais Anais to my mind remains one of the best designer scents on the market. Soft, feminine and graceful hyacinth and lily. It always brings a smile to my face.

Further reading: Bois de Jasmin and The Non Blonde
Anais Anais L’Original (available in both EDP and EDT) and Anais Anais EDT are widely available at department stores and online sellers.
FragranceNet has the current EDT starting at $31.19/30ml before discount
Surrender To Chance starts at $3/ml

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

2. Karl Lagerfeld for Her by Karl Lagerfeld 2014

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: lemon and peach
Heart: magnolia, rose and frangipani
Base: amber wood and musk

My lovely Mum picked this up for me on a recent holiday overseas. She handed it to me saying: “Well I know you’re a perfume snob, but I kept smelling it and thought it was beautiful. But if it’s not good enough and you don’t want it, I’ll have it.” Hehehe! I ended up keeping the bottle because, as Mums often are, she was right. This makes a nice departure from the swathes of fruitchoulis out there. It’s a pretty, demure and elegant mix of lemon, rose and white flowers.

Further reading: Now Smell This
David Jones has $75/45ml

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

3. Marc Jacobs for Women by Steve Demercado and Loc Dong for Marc Jacobs 2001

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: gardenia and bergamot
Heart: tuberose, jasmine, white pepper and honeysuckle
Base: ginger, cedar and musk

This was launched eons before the niche revival of gardenia scents and still remains one of the best in my view. It’s a watery take on the voluptuous white flower but without the dreaded aquatic/calone vibe, just an amazingly pretty “wet” gardenia. I just wish it was slightly more readily available as it’s a damn sight better than some of the recent releases by the house.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

4. Michael by Laurent Le Guernec for Michael Kors 2000

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Freesia, incense, Chinese osmanthus, tamarind
Heart: Tuberose, iris, peony, orris root, arum lily
Base: Musk, cashmere wood, vetiver

I’ve mentioned this one before too. Whilst it might be shriek tuberose for some, this always feels like a second skin some 14 years after first trying it. It’s a strong tuberose, tempered by freesia and lily before the spices take over and make this all spicy white floral goodness.

Further reading: The Scents of Self
Michael is available in most department stores and online discounters.
FragranceNet has it starting at $41.19/50ml (before coupon)
My Perfume Samples starts at $2.49/ml

5. No 19 EDP by Henri Robert for Chanel 1970

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:

Top: green notes and bergamot
Heart: rose and iris
Base: vetiver, oakmoss and leather
I came late to the Chanel 19 party, but what a party it is! An aloof green icicle of perfumed beauty that just oozes confidence and chic. I prefer the EDP of this one for its much rosier depth and fullness.

Further reading: Bois de Jasmin and Muse in Wooden Shoes

Chanel No 19 is available in most department stores

Surrender to Chance starts at $3.49/ml

So, there’s my take. What would your top 5 be?

With much love till next time!

M xx

Au Pays de la Fleur d’Oranger reviews

August 26, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 45 Comments

Post by Val the Cookie Queen

Au Pays de la Fleur d’Oranger is a family run company founded in 1998 by Virginie and Antoine Roux. French. Côte d’Azur. Their perfume line was launched in 2005/2006. They also do chocolates, decorations, oils, mustards, honey and of course orange flower water, to mention but a few, but we´ll just be taking a brief look at three of their perfumes today. The do have a mouthwatering Au Pays de la Fleur d’Oranger website though!

Au Pays de la Fleur d’Oranger

Oranges, Roses and Lavenders – Timeless Beauties

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Lavender, bergamot
Heart: Cinnamon, rose, cedar
Base: Amber, patchouli, leather, musk

Lavande Ombrée by Jean-Claude Gigodot 2013

Lavande Ombreé is very leathery. Now I love leather, but blended with a smoky lavender it is perhaps better suited to a bloke. ( One has to be so careful!) Lots of birch tar, lavender and as it develops, a lurking rose appears. Add that to a hunk in a biker jacket and it could be quite the combo – for anyone!!

Photo Donated Val CQ

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Orange blossom, sicilian bergamot, mandarin orange
Heart: Jasmine, rose, fruits
Base: Cedar, vanilla, musk, sandalwood

Neroli Blanc Intense by Jean-Claude Gigodot 2005

My favourite orange is a Terry´s chocolate one.

Neroli Blanc is a big time fragrance. No hiding your light under a bushel with this. It is thick and syrupy and packs a punch. Laced with jasmine and vanilla, hovering on a rich musky base, it warms you to the bone. Glamourous. Perfect for partying on the yacht dancing the night away. It comes in a serious chunk of glass. It weighs 400 grams, including the perfume. That should give you an idea. Very striking. Check out Bonkers About Perfume take on Neroli Blanc Intense.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, orange, vermouth
Heart: Almond, rose, iris, ylang-ylang
Base: Woody notes, cedar, patchouli, musk, vanilla, sandalwood

Rose Iriseé by Jean-Claude Gigodot 2014

This opens with with a bright burst of Iris. Metallic and smooth. I expected rose. This irisean (?) burst however gives way quite quickly to a lush, velvety rose. It is perfectly lovely. Do not be deceived. It becomes very seductive as it heads into the dry down phase. Patchouli, vanilla, and musk entwine with the rose. Charming with a retro vibe. This is hands down my favourite of today´s three.

All of these have great longevity and proper perfume stages. They are beautifully executed. Go see the site Au Pays de la Fleur d’Oranger<<JUMP

Photo Stolen hemodernhome

Au Pays de la Fleur d’Oranger GIVEAWAY

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have 3 Winners who will all get:

Decanted spray sample of
Lavande Ombrée
Neroli Blanc Intense
Rose Iriseé
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOW DO YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Tell us which of todays Au Pays de la Fleur d’Oranger reads most you and why

Extra Chance?
Tweet: @OzPerfumeJunkie Au Pays de la Fleur d’Oranger + GIVEAWAY http://wp.me/p3PURw-377 #Perfume #Giveaway

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Friday 29th August 2014 10pm Australian EST and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winners will be chosen by armadillo, deceased
The winners will have till Monday 1st September 2014 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

Bussis
CQ

With thanks to Au Pays de la Fleur d’Oranger for the übergenerous samples. APJ will pass the love on!

Michael Edwards / Fragrance of the World book

August 25, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 77 Comments

Post by Ainslie Walker

Hello APJ

For those of you who don’t know who, Michael Edwards is, please stop everything and read below. For those who do, read on anyway, as we have an extremely generous and special giveaway for you today!

Michael Edwards / Fragrance of the World book + GIVEAWAY

Photo Donated Fragrances Of The World

I have nicknamed Michael, “The David Attenborough of the Perfume World” to friends who need an explanation, initially mainly due to his mannerisms and gentle accent. When I told him, he graciously and modestly accepted this, saying he “was very flattered”, and I was “far too kind”. The thing is, he has done as much, for the perfume industry, as Sir David has done with wildlife, exploring, categorizing and creating families, from a fragrant territory, very few had explored prior. He has created a vast and valuable foundation for us all to learn and discover from. His impact and input to the industry will be evident for many years, even generations to come.

Michael is a true gentlemen -softly spoken, approachable, and extremely modest. He is an independent fragrance evaluator, classifier, educator, author, consultant and historian. He is also a 2-time FiFi award winner – THE most prominent and prestigious award, of the fragrance industry.

He has classified more fragrances than anyone in perfume’s history. His comprehensive, annual book “Fragrances Of The World” is now in its 30th Anniversary Edition. Of the first book, released in 1984, Michael says humbly “ it was very modest, listing just 300 perfumes” (Actually, a huge undertaking if you think about it- that’s almost 1 fragrance for every day of the year!)

His experience and knowledge of perfumes and the fragrance industry is second to none. He knows everyone who is anyone, perfumers and noses (Ellena, Roudaniska, De Chiris…around 400 of them!), oil houses (Coty, Robertet, Firminech, Givadaun…), fashion brands, (Tom Ford, Chanel, Dior, Lutens, Estee Lauder, Prada, Hermes…), perfume distributors, bottle designers, retailers (Harrods, Nordstrom, David Jones…in fact these 3 give him ALL their display windows on release of his books, they are THAT crucial to their sales!)

His contact list is incredible and he has met and interviewed many of the greats, including many who have now sadly passed away. He was the first to interview perfumers, and expose some of the mystery surrounding French perfumery, for his now out of print book, Perfume Legends.

Seriously; he knows EVERYONE! They come to him for advice, guidance and information. Evelyn Lauder calls him “the perfume experts’, expert!” And yet he remains so incredibly humble.

For the Fragrances Of The World manuals, he and his talented Australian based team categorize every perfume released (!!) into 4 fragrance groups – Floral, Oriental, Woody and Fresh, and then into a further 14 subgroup families, from his famous fragrance wheel.

Photo Stolen Fragrances Of The World

Each year he updates, adding all the new releases and discontinuations for that year. In 1984 only 30 of the fragrances were ‘new’, in 1993, the team added 130, in 2003, 580, and so on until last year they added a whopping 1500!! The 2014 edition contains more than 8000 fragrances, and the 2015 is set to have 1400 more!

Originally developed to help retailers to sell perfumes, and lessen confusion for consumers, the books are now known as the bibles of the industry. Perfume Legends now fetches $700 on ebay!! He cites the wine industry as being years ahead in its universal classifications, descriptions and understanding. The perfume industry still has a long way to go to quash the confusion and overwhelm felt when buying/selling/choosing and talking about fragrance.

“The right fragrance is almost as hard to find as the right man” (Allure magazine) His life’s work, certainly makes it easier for us all to find that ‘needle in a haystack’ personal fragrance.

Photo Donated Fragrances Of The World

Tips from Michael (and me) on how we can use his books:

For collectors, perfume lovers, retailers and consultants helping others to find there perfect scent(s), (aka APJ peeps!!) the books are invaluable.

Michael recommends highlighting in the book, all the fragrances in our collections – we will start to see patterns forming in certain fragrance groups/subfamilies e.g. for me, ‘woody oriental’ and also ‘green’. This helps us to discover similar others we may also like. As an experiment, ask friends their 3-4 favorite fragrances and look them up in the back of the book – chances are 2 will fall in the same group, sometimes even subfamily too – flip to this category in the front, and then you will easily be able to recommend other fragrances they will love from there.

My tip for perfume storage and study: Using the 2014 edition, I have now organized my perfume collection into family groups, (instead of by brand) using the book’s categories. Now I can study their similarities and differences, training my nose along the way, and stretching myself to expand what I wear from my wardrobe – hours of fun!

Photo Stolen manoneileen