DIOR: Le Petit Théâtre Dior

June 22, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 7 Comments

OMG!!

DIOR is taking a traveling show of DIOR miniature replicas around the world. First stop was Chengdu in China. This is the kind of fabulously amazing thing that makes me so happy. All the creative people that an event like this would employ and the sheer genius of the idea taken from the The Theatre of Fashion, a 1945 exhibition in Paris, a post war French fashion exhibit done in miniature whose inspiration came from Lucien Lelong, Christian Dior’s boss and mentor at that time.

I hope you enjoy a look at the event and a couple of the miniature dress creation movies. Amazing.
Portia xx

Photo Stolen Buro247

DIOR: Le Petit Théâtre Dior: Chengdu IFS mall in China

DIOR: Le Petit Théâtre Dior – The Exhibition

DIOR: Le Petit Théâtre Dior – Making of “Miss Dior” dress

DIOR: Le Petit Théâtre Dior – Making of “Mexique” dress

Source

Rose Kashmirie by Marie-Helene Rogeon + Francois Robert for Les Parfums de Rosine 2007

June 21, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 19 Comments

Hello Lovely Fumie Friends,

While in Paris in February Michael and I stumbled across the Les Parfums de Rosine store in the Palais Royal shopping strips after doing a shop in Serge Lutens while upstairs they were having a launch party. I was very sad that we weren’t invited up to have a drink and a sniff.

Don’t forget our AMBER GIVEAWAY<< JUMP

Rose Kashmirie by Les Parfums de Rosine 2007

Marie-Helene Rogeon + Francois Robert

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Saffron, coriander, bergamot, rose
Heart: Myrhh, rose, peony
Base: Vetiver, sandalwood, amber, benzoin, vanille, grass, cypriol oil (nagarmotha)

So I first dabbed my sample of Rose Kashmirie and what I got was a lovely sparkling, very slightly spicy, fresh rose scent. One of those roses that you buy in a bunch that has the merest whiff of fragrance so fragile and tenuous but amped up 1000 times. Very pretty but nothing groundbreaking or really interesting at all, there are at least 100 rose frags doing the same thing for 1/4 the price, meh.

Then, searching through my samples I came across the 2ml vial and decided to decant it into a spritz atomiser. WOW! The difference is beyond compare, they are two entirely different entities in the open. Now that luscious green herbal coriander and slightly plastic saffron add depth and breadth to the rose. Now I’m smelling a garden rose that has bloomed to a plate size, full of the wonderful sweet, spicy, boozy, green magic that is a rose. A riot of rose, loads of the roses with a lovely citrus twang that sets my heart aflutter and my eyes wanting to roll back in my head.

Photo Stolen Flickr

There is a watery, cool breath through the rose that rises through a wind of cool incense born from some temple, this is Srinagar on a houseboat in the cool of morning. I think it’s lovely peony come to waft through the rose, a dewy cool peony plucked fresh in the morning dark. Still Rose Kashmirie is all cool and no warmth well into its heart. At this point the rose becomes slightly generic (that’s the wrong word but I can’t find a better fit), still beautiful but now like a bath product rather than fine fragrance, maybe a lavish body wash or a soap. Yes, we are definitely traveling soapy territory, but it is lovely, exquisite soap. The finest.

Photo Stolen Wikipedia

Later Rose Kashmirie warms through as the rose becomes more vanilla/amber hued and the incense becomes a lovely smoky crackle. The dried grasses add a tobacco-ish feel and my nose picks out some lovely honey tones too. Is my nose playing tricks or is there an animal lurking beneath all the prettiness? A big hairy animal on heat. WOW! Breathing right down my rose scented neck. Though all of these extras add on still the shining star is rose, rose in its many facets and phases, bud, bloom, petals and leaves. Here they are in one of the worlds loveliest places, war torn, strife filled Kasmir. This is the Kashmirie Rose.

Next morning there is a nearly scent left that hints of roses, powder and healthy compost. Soft but very, very pretty.

Further reading: Chickenfreak’s Obsessions and Scent for Thought
First In Fragrance has €88/50ml and samples
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $4/ml

Interestingly, the other reviews I read either dismissed or didn’t find Rose Kashmirie worked for them.
Damn it, I like it and am seriously thinking FBW. Have you tried it? What did you think?
Portia x

Amber by Alec Lawless for Essentially Me 2010

June 20, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 30 Comments

Hello Uber Niche Nerds,

Not so long ago I got a request from a reader to try some stuff from the Essentially Me range. Instantly I went on point and found myself a sample set from this natural perfume crew crafted by Alec Lawless. Sadly Alec Lawless was killed in an on board boat electrocution in the shower, what a tragic and dramatic way to go. Now his website is no longer functional so you can’t go and buy any of the fabulous creations there either. Why am I writing? Well when I ordered from Essentially Me they were still functioning and I have had this fabulous fragrance sitting here awaiting moderation but something always got in the way of my wearing it, new samples, holiday, deadlines etc etc. Last week I finally bit the bullet……

Amber by Alec Lawless for Essentially Me 2010

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Spice, mint, caraway, thyme
Heart: Jasmine, lavender, rose, clary sage
Base: Labdanum, frankincense, sandalwood, myrrh, vanilla, patchouli

One of things that hits me straight off the bat is how little like an all naturals perfume Amber smells like. The opening could be any mainstream niche opening, big, sharp, spicy, herbal and slightly fetid. EXACTLY how I want my fragrance to open. I think mint is a note that I am drawn to, though here in a minor role it freshens up the green opening and makes it sparkle. It’s a fun and mildly feral extravaganza that every now and then gives me a hint of pizza fresh from the oven, hot, foody and a slight charring of the base, MMMMMM.

The heart maintains Amber’s green tinged opening and for once I can smell clary sage clearly, all wrapped up in its lovely bouquet that still maintains its soft echo of the herbal fresh open for quite a while. So this jasmine is quite breathy sometimes, today particularly so, and the indole is very reminiscent of fragrances of a bygone era. There remains something delightfully fizzy about Amber as it progresses, so unusual, and especially in a natural fragrance.

Photo Stolen Pixabay

The base incense and resins have come in under everything and made themselves noticed, they have been there all along in the background but as all the other pieces of the puzzle burn off they are left centre stage with an earthy patchouli and sweet, creamy vanilla. I wonder if the sandalwood is adding that creamy, lactonic touch? Is amber king? No, Amber has too much other lovely stuff going on to let the Labdanum/Vanilla become the ultimate thing in dry down but I enjoy the ride more because it’s still so unexpected, every time.

About 3-5 hours depending, no idea why sometimes it just lasts longer. Good projection for the first hour and then a soft halo around you that gives quite a good sillage till well into the second hour on as normal wear.

I think even if you are not an amber fan that this could be your gateway.

Portia xx

Photo Stolen manoneileen

Amber by Essentially Me GIVEAWAY

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have 2 winners who will each get:
1 x 5ml decant of Amber by Essentially Me
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOW DO YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Please tell me your favourite Amber fragrance, or why you would like to try this one.

Extra Chance?
Tweet: @OzPerfumeJunkie Amber by Essentially Me GIVEAWAY http://wp.me/p3PURw-2Jr #Perfume #Giveaway

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Sunday 22nd June 2014 10pm Australian EST and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winners will be chosen by random.org
The winners will have till Thursday 26th June 2014 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

Acqua di Gioia by Giorgio Armani: Ad

June 20, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 12 Comments

Hi APJers,

I hope life is treating you kindly, and that you are treating you kindly too.

I stumbled across this beautiful ad while trolling YouTube recently. I love it. To be honest I have never knowingly smelled Acqua di Gioia by Giorgio Armani but they sure know how to make a lovely ad.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Mint, Limone Primo Fiore Femminello from Calabria
Heart: Jasmine, peony, pink pepper
Base: Cedar, yellow sugar and labdanum

Have you smelled it? What did you think?
Portia xx

Acqua di Gioia Eau de Toilette – Italian version

Muschio by Santa Maria Novella + Korea Photo Essay

June 19, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 13 Comments

Post by TinaG

Hi APJ!

We’ve recently returned from an amazing trip to South Korea – Portia, Jin, Kath, Matt and I travelled around for about two weeks having an absolute ball in a wonderful & welcoming country. Before we left, I had a few chats and did some research on what fragrances I may have access to that I wouldn’t normally get my hands on in Australia. One of the names which came up was Santa Maria Novella, which I happily discovered has a flagship store in Seoul.

“Officina Profumo – Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella” is one of the world’s oldest pharmacies. Originally established in Florence, Italy in 1221 by Dominican Friars, who created herbal potions and remedies for use in their monastery, the pharmacy was opened up to the public in 1612. The original Florence pharmacy still stands, with all of their products continuing to be hand made at their Florence factory site utilising old recipes and classic artisanal methods.

The South Korean store in Seoul is located near pretty Dosan Park in an upmarket shopping district within Gangnam-Gu. We were greeted and kindly looked after by the shop hostesses. I made a beeline for the colognes whilst Portia explored all of the other wonderful goodies on display.

From Fragrantica: Santa Maria Novella is one of the oldest pharmacies in the world. It was opened in Florence, Italy in 1612, taking the formulas of Dominican friars that originate from 13th century.

Their products are all the types of things you may expect to find in an apothecary: high quality and beautifully presented soaps, fragrances, herbal extracts and essences, side by side with more modern home items such as wax candles and dog & cat grooming collection. I could so easily have stayed there for hours on end, but I did manage to get my nose to a fair few bottles including the recently released Alba de Seoul which had a refreshing pine needle note, a nod to the cultural importance of the South Korean pine trees. I wished I could have taken more home, but I decided to treat myself to a full bottle of ….

Muschio by Santa Maria Novella

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Musk, powdery notes

Muschio is a really gorgeous comforting scent and has quickly become my go-to fragrance this winter. Although technically a cologne, Muschio isn’t one of those which can be splashed on liberally or needs refreshing every couple of hours – there is no need as it has very good longevity and silage. On opening there is a predominant puff of musk with slightly woody undertones, a touch of vanilla and a ghost of lemon hovering over the top. The musk is nothing animalic but it light and airy. The dry white wood in the background keeps it from being overly candy-shop sweet, giving it a lovely powdery feel. It doesn’t change appreciably in dry down, although the musk softens and the woods become more prominent. I also get a cinnamon-stick note, spicy wood without the peppery kick, adding to the warmth.

The visit to Santa Maria Novella was a fragrant highlight of a fantastic holiday. I’m so glad I purchased Muschio, it holds a dozen happy memories for me along with the continued enjoyment of a really fabulous cologne.

Do you have a fragrant holy-grail location that you’ve managed to visit, or wish to? Here are some pics of mine.

TinaG

Essence Aromatique by Michel Almairac for Bottega Veneta 2014

June 18, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 12 Comments

Post by ElizaD

Hi APJ,

On a beautiful spring morning, I sit on a park bench, sipping my coffee and watching people as they stroll by. Suddenly I am drawn to one couple, both of them sharply dressed, tall and lithe, arms touching as they walk. Her fragrance intrigues me. It is a bit of Chanel, a bit of Bulgari, some tea, citrus, flowers and patchouli, soft and powdery. I rise to follow them, determined to find out what it is. I have never been so bold, but I have to know.

Photo Stolen Wikipedia

I approach them. “You smell so lovely” I say to the woman, “what is that fragrance you are wearing?” She responds “I am not wearing fragrance today.”

Now I am confused. Clearly this wonderful soft aroma emanates from this couple. “But my husband is,” she finishes, “it is called Essence Aromatique.” I walk away delighted.

Essence Aromatique by Michel Almairac for Bottega Veneta 2014

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot and coriander
Heart: White rose, tonka and vanilla
Base: Patchouli and sandalwood

Essence Aromatique eau de cologne is advertised on the Bottega Veneta website as a women’s fragrance, along with their other three feminine perfumes: Bottega Veneta, their signature scent; Bottega Veneta Eau Legere; and Bottega Veneta in Murano Glass Parfum. But Fragrantica readers consider it to be unisex. The leather notes, which lurk at the bottom, offer a balance to the floral heart notes, while the bergamot adds that splash of aftershave freshness. The coriander, tonka bean and vanilla become the suggestion of warm skin. In the right place–probably not Eugene, Oregon, where I live–I can envision my well-dressed and self-assured gentleman wearing this. His fragrance need not make any more of a statement than his other carefully selected accessories.

Photo Stolen Wikipedia

I was not disappointed by the fragrance of Essence Aromatique. On me, it’s perfect: a light woody floral that is professional and age-appropriate but not dowdy. I feel grown up in this perfume. And Essence Aromatique could have become a new addition to my collection, save for one drawback. Sillage is nonexistent. An hour after first applying this, I was wishing I had brought my tiny sample with me to the office so I could respritz. It’s an eau de cologne with an eau de parfum pricetag.

Further reading: Colognoisseur and Now Smell This
StrawberryNET has $86/50ml and body products
My Perfume Samples starts at $3/ml

Ah well, perhaps I will try the shower gel, or wait until it hits the discounters. Too bad.

How do you feel about unisex fragrances…where do you draw the line?

ElizaD

A Whale of A Week!

June 17, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 14 Comments

Post by Ainslie Walker

It’s whale-watching season here in Sydney. As they migrate past the Harbour, people line the shore to catch a glimpse. I visited the cliffs at the entrance to Sydney Harbour last week and saw some. Amazing creatures, and a very Sydney experience.

Photo Stolen Wikipedia

A Whale of A Week!

Also last week, I was lucky enough to smell a lump of ambergris. Ambergris is fecal matter (TURD) from sperm whales. It takes many years to form, lining the intestinal wall of the whale to protect it from the beaks of the squid it dines on. Debate surrounds how it is released from the whale -some say it’s vomit, some say it comes out the other end. Scientists say whale fecal matter is only fluids, so now it is believed the ambergris is only released when the animal dies, breaks down, or even explodes!! Lumps have been found from 15g to 420kg. The price for naturally found ambergris is extremely high, the odds of finding it, extremely small. Many countries ban the trade of ambergris as part of the ban on the hunting of whales- Australia of course is very strict-none is coming in and none is getting out!

Amber/Ambergris is a somewhat mysterious perfume ingredient. Is it a resin from a tree or is it really whale’s vomit/poop that’s been washed ashore? Is it a man made accord? I am curiously confused, and have had to investigate.

The word ‘amber’ was adopted into the English language in the 14th Century and referred to ‘grey amber’, now known as ‘ambergris’ (ambre gris). ‘Amber’ (Baltic/white/yellow amber) is fossilised tree resin, considered a gemstone, and appreciated for its colour and beauty since the stone ages. The term ‘amber’ was used to describe this substance in the early 15th century and was used more and more as ambergris use declined. Yellow amber and ambergris are both found washed up on beaches – ambergris floats, however, amber is too dense to float.

Ambergris is waxy, solid and flammable, and usually grey or black. When fresh it has a strong fecal odour. As it ages and oxidises, floating out to sea. I experienced a salty-fresh, dry marine blast, like sea rockpools, with animalic and fecal notes, something also very deep and earthy from the “lumps”. I then smelt from a bottle of ambergris tincture. It instantly reminded me of “Isocol” –isopropanol/rubbing alcohol, benzoin- but much deeper, earthy, smooth, cool and kind of ear-waxy,… still marine, dry, animalic and slightly fecal.

Ambergris’ main use in perfumery is as a ‘fixative’ – allowing the elusive perfume notes, and especially quick evaporating top notes, to linger longer.
Nowadays, it is uncommon for large product houses to use real ambergris in perfumes. (Hermes and Creed claim they still do). Synthetics became available in the 20th century that are cheaper and easier to acquire. Perfumers now make “amber accords” from combinations of vanillin (synthetic vanilla), labdanum, benzoin and styrax (liquid-amber tree resin).
In perfumery, ‘amber’ describes a warm, powdery, sweet and mysterious base note. Classed as ‘oriental perfumes’ in English, and in French, “parfums ambres”. Shalimar is the best example of this sweetened genre, a more bold take is Serge Luten’s Ambre Sultan with its bay leaf twist.

Ainslie Walker x

Further reading and exhibitions:
Book: Christopher Kemp’s Floating Gold: A Natural (and Unnatural) History of Ambergris

Here’s a link to a (life size) whale photography exhibition currently on in Sydney. The exhibition is breathtaking, and really captures these incredible and rare creatures.

Side note: Dioressence was famous for using real ambergris in the past. Apparantly Hermes, Merveilles still contains it! Go have a smell!

“14°S 48°E” EdP Natural Terroir Perfume GIVEAWAY WINNERS

June 17, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 2 Comments

WOW APJ!!

Two giveaways in one week! This place is JUMPIN’ Thanks again for being part of our crew, our family of frag nuts. Glad to have you along in a place where your Fragrant Freak Flag is always welcome.
Portia xx

“14°S 48°E” EdP Natural Terroir Perfume GIVEAWAY WINNERS

ValCQ Vero Tree

WHAT COULD YOU WIN?

This week we will have 2 winners who will each get:
1 x “14°S 48°E” EdP sample
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOW DIDD YOU WIN?

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Please leave a comment with a reason as to why the Terroir interests you.

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Sunday 15th June 2014 10pm Australian EST
Val cracked out her dead armadillo, which did not come from Madagascar, popped the names into it, and got one of the kids to pick one.

Photo Stolen dryicons

Connie

Einsof

The winners will have till Thursday 19th June 2014 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

Kalimantan by Pierre Negrin for Chantecaille 2010

June 16, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 1 Comment

Post by SarahK

Amber is a fragrance family that I really like in theory, but in practice rarely end up wearing. Many just feel too heavy for me to wear even in the dead of winter. I may like the smell, but if it doesn’t meld with my skin, and just sits there like a thick layer of gold, I feel like a fraud wearing it.

Kalimantan by Pierre Negrin for Chantecaille 2010

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Thyme, rosemary, bergamot
Heart: Incense, labdanum, patchouli
Base: Benzoin, agar, styrax, vanilla, cedar

Kalimantan is not like this. It’s an amber suitable for any time in my book. It is my Goldilocks amber – not too sweet, not too spicy, it has some heft but is not too over the top. I can feel several layers in this scent. There’s a smooth labdanum-benzoin mix, some cedar, a gentle kicker of incense and some dry herbs, though these are not in any way foody. The aromatic green edge that the cedar and herbs give the scent means that I am as happy to wear it in the heat of summer as I am in colder weather. For me, this isn’t the smell of the Indonesian part of the island of Borneo after which the fragrance was named. It is the scent of a thyme-covered Greek hillside baking in the sunshine, so it suits the warm weather, while in cold weather it reminds me of the heat.

Photo Stolen Geograph

There aren’t a lot of reviews around for this fragrance, but those that exist often compare it to Serge Lutens’ Ambre Sultan or Andy Tauer’s L’Air du Desert Marocain. For me, LADDM is a lot drier and has a gasoline note that I do not get at all in Kalimantan. It brings to mind a road running through a parched desert, not Kalimantan’s aromatic, sun-baked hill. Kalimantan does strike me as very similar to Ambre Sultan, and if you own one, I can’t imagine needing to own the other, but the Lutens fragrance is a touch drier, with a stronger incense note in the heart, while its herbs and cedar are less golden and honeyed until you reach the drydown. Kalimantan is my favourite of the three, but that may be because I tried it before Ambre Sultan.

Photo Stolen HuffingtonPost

Further reading: EauMG and Perfume Posse.
Nordstrom has $175/75ml

Come and sit with me on a Greek hilltop at sunset, watching the last rays of sun bouncing off the warm stone of a church. The bells are ringing and incense is already burning.

L’Occitane Ultra Soft Shea Butter Body Cream – GIVEAWAY WINNERS

June 16, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 2 Comments

Hey All,

We LOVE giveaways at APJ, thank you all for getting involved. This is a super special prize and I can’t wait to see who won this week. Thanks to L’Occitane Australia who are always so generous and friendly, not to mention the fabulous product. LOVE IT!

Portia xx

L’Occitane Ultra Soft Shea Butter Body Cream – GIVEAWAY

Karité Douceur de Crème - Zeste de Citron Photo Stolen L’Occitane France

WHAT COULD YOU WIN?

This week we will have 2 winners who will each get:
1 x 100ml L’Occitane Ultra Soft Shea Butter Body Cream
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOW DID YOU WIN?

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Go to L’Occitane Australia<<JUMP and find any fragrance, tell me one of its note please. NO DOUBLE UPS!

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Closed Sunday 15th June 2014 10pm Australian EST
Winners were chosen by random.org

Photo Stolen berryreview

Australian Perfume Junkies

Olfactory Opinions from Oz

DIOR: Le Petit Théâtre Dior

DIOR: Le Petit Théâtre Dior: Chengdu IFS mall in China

DIOR: Le Petit Théâtre Dior – The Exhibition

DIOR: Le Petit Théâtre Dior – Making of “Miss Dior” dress

DIOR: Le Petit Théâtre Dior – Making of “Mexique” dress

Rose Kashmirie by Marie-Helene Rogeon + Francois Robert for Les Parfums de Rosine 2007

Rose Kashmirie by Les Parfums de Rosine 2007

Marie-Helene Rogeon + Francois Robert

Amber by Alec Lawless for Essentially Me 2010

Amber by Alec Lawless for Essentially Me 2010

Amber by Essentially Me GIVEAWAY

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

HOW DO YOU WIN?

HOUSEKEEPING

Acqua di Gioia by Giorgio Armani: Ad

Acqua di Gioia Eau de Toilette – Italian version

Muschio by Santa Maria Novella + Korea Photo Essay

Muschio by Santa Maria Novella

Essence Aromatique by Michel Almairac for Bottega Veneta 2014

Essence Aromatique by Michel Almairac for Bottega Veneta 2014

A Whale of A Week!

A Whale of A Week!

“14°S 48°E” EdP Natural Terroir Perfume GIVEAWAY WINNERS

“14°S 48°E” EdP Natural Terroir Perfume GIVEAWAY WINNERS

WHAT COULD YOU WIN?

HOW DIDD YOU WIN?

HOUSEKEEPING

Connie

Einsof

Kalimantan by Pierre Negrin for Chantecaille 2010

Kalimantan by Pierre Negrin for Chantecaille 2010

L’Occitane Ultra Soft Shea Butter Body Cream – GIVEAWAY WINNERS

L’Occitane Ultra Soft Shea Butter Body Cream – GIVEAWAY

WHAT COULD YOU WIN?

HOW DID YOU WIN?

HOUSEKEEPING

Christine Higgs

Kath