Rumba by Jean-Claude Ellena and Ron Winnegrad for Balenciaga/Ted Lapidus 1988

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Post by Anne-Marie

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Got a spare $20 or $30? Spend it on Rumba. Stop reading this review and go do it. Tell them Anne-Marie sent you.

Still here? Want the full story? Well, Rumba is a complicated fragrance to review. Although it was released by Balanciaga in 1988 (or 1989, according to some sources), the rights were later bought by Ted Lapidus and the fragrance is now packaged (identically) under that name. I don’t know when the switch occurred; less than 10 years ago, deducing from various online reviews.

Rumba by Balenciaga/Ted Lapidus 1988

Rumba by Jean-Claude Ellena and Ron Winnegrad

Rumba Ted Lapidus FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured notes:
Top:
Bergamot, plum, basil, peach, orange blossom, raspberry, mirabelle
Heart: Honey, jasmine, tuberose, carnation, heliotrope, magnolia, gardenia, lily-of-the-valley, orchid, marigold, rose
Base: Ambergris, vanilla, leather, tonka bean, patchouli, musk, sandalwood, cedar, plum, styrax, oakmoss

I’m reviewing the Lapidus version. The notes are almost identical (mirabelle, ambergris and rose are added). I have not smelled the Balenciaga, so please comment if you have compared them. From reviews, it sounds as if the Lapidus team opened a window to let some fresh air to circulate between the notes. I’m glad of that, because even the Lapidus is one helluva fragrance.

Rumba Balenciaga Ladies_of_Dynasty WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

Spraying Rumba is like letting the 1980s out of a bottle. Hop over to Spotify and pull up a 1980s playlist. That. At opening, intensely cooked fruit is modified – very interestingly – by a damp herbal accord (bergamot and basil). The next phase is not so pleasing. I get a harsh and, well, vulgar white flower accord, tuberose in particular, typical of the era. Oakmoss is supposed to be a basenote, but dear God! Here it is already.

Eventually Rumba calms down, and although it’s been fun, I’m glad. I can’t listen to Bonnie Tyler and Def Leppard all night, sorry. Vanilla is NOT a note I love unreservedly but here, unsweetened, it is wonderfully balanced with dry, smoky, leathery notes. So it’s goodbye to the 1980s, and hello to today’s niche/experimental style of fragrance. (And how much of that can you get for under $40?)

Rumba Balenciaga Bee-apis WikiCommonsPhoto Stolen WikiCommons

Rumba is an unsubtle scent; not a morning fragrance at all, really. Apply it in moderation in the afternoon, well before leaving the house, and it will take you into evening and on until the following morning.

Further reading: Now Smell This and Bois de Jasmin
FragranceNet has $23/100ml before coupon

I suspect that Rumba is often treated as an historical curiosity, more talked about than worn. Because yes, it was co-developed by Jean-Claude Ellena, famous now for his elusive, delicate etudes for Hermes. But give Rumba some skin time, judge it on its merits, and have fun!

Anne-Marie XXX

Balenciaga Fall Winter 2014 Ad Campaign

Good Morning Frag Heads,

Here is one of the most beautiful and inspiring images of fashion this season. Gisele Bündchen looking like a rocker cross pixie plotting her next move in a crystal cave of reflection. Hair shorn and very androgynous looking, it could be a poster for a modern take on Peter Pan.

Balenciaga Fall Winter 2014 Ad Campaign

As so often is the case I found this at my go to fashion image news page art8amby

 

Balenciaga’s dark ad campaign for fall features Gisele Bündchen, who in February walked the brand’s runway show in a rare catwalk appearance.

In one image from the campaign, shot by Steven Klein, a moody-looking Bündchen, her typically long locks apparently shorn and slicked, sports thigh-high patent boots against an infinitely reflecting backdrop of cracked mirrored surfaces.

“This is how I see Gisele for Balenciaga; strong, powerful, mysterious and uncompromising,” Balenciaga artistic director Alexander Wang said of the campaign.

Behind the makeup look is Diane Kendal, while Anthony Turner styled the hair for the shoot. (source)

B.Balenciaga by Domitille Bertier for Balenciaga 2014 + Ad Campaign

Hiya Happy Huffers and Fashionistas,

Not due to be released till mid October 2014 the whisper and advertising mill is already full steam ahead. Balenciaga, once super proud fashion house and fragrance purveyor could be ready to take center stage again with this new piece of magic….

B.Balenciaga by Domitille Bertier for Balenciaga 2014

B. Balenciaga Cristobal Balenciaga FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Lily of the valley, Pea, Violet leaf
Heart: Orris, Cedar
Base: Cashmirwood, Ambrette (Musk Mallow)

Looks like Balenciaga has gone out on a limb to bring us something green and woodsy. Could this be prefacing a change in the wind for mainstream fragrances? Fingers crossed, because I am totally excited already and can’t wait to try it.

Portia xx

B.Balenciaga by Domitille Bertier for Balenciaga 2014 Ad Campaign

Rising model Anna Ewers is the campaign face for Alexander Wang‘s first fragrance for Balenciaga, B.Balenciaga. The campaign was photographed by Steven Klein and styled by Vanessa Traina. (source)