DIOR and Japan: A symbiotic relationship

Hi there DIOR Couture and Fragrance fans,

I love the house of DIOR. It has been with me through my childhood years making clothes for Barbie dolls, the years of fashion school and the fashion industry, even after I have tried to keep up with what is happening on the world’s runways. So here is a very interesting piece of information that I was only vaguely aware of. Christian Dior loved Japan! Now that it’s pointed out so simply it makes complete sense.

DIOR Esprit_Dior_Tokyo_2015 WallpaperPhoto Stolen wallpaper

Here then is a short film introducing the idea and giving a potted history of their engagement through time. I really enjoyed it as a forerunner to the DIOR Esprit Tokyo show.
Enjoy,
Portia xx

DIOR and Japan

 

Esprit Dior Tokyo 2015 Show – Best Of

Narcotic Venus by Alessandro Gualtieri for Nasomatto 2007

Hey Frag Family,

Today you can come look at a fragrance from a line that I keep hearing great things about. They are often talked about on Fragrance Blogs, the FaceBook Frag pages and among perfumistas and are held in high esteem. Last year in Vienna with Birgit I bought a bottle of Nuda, I haven’t opened it yet, because one 10 minute wear and I was head over heels already. Today’s fragrance is from Nasomatto’s first offerings back in 2007, well that is the first mention I can find and it’s on Perfume Shrine who writes this: The masterminds are both Italian, Allesandro and Arturetto, who had been students in Germany at the H&R company for courses in “medieval” perfumery. We’re told that Allesandro was taught by Arturetto and then went on to create fragrances for designers such as Romeo Gigli, Versace, Valentino, Helmut Lang and Fendi, finally locating in Amsterdam and re-uniting with Arturetto to launch his private vision: a line of his own niche perfumes, called Nasomatto. 

Narcotic Venus by Alessandro Gualtieri for Nasomatto 2007

Narcotic Venus Nasomatto FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Tuberose, jasmine, lily, spice

Nasomatto does not release note lists so we can wear the fragrance and enjoy it for what it is meant to be, a culmination of science and artistry that makes a fragrance that is more than the sum of its parts, it is an experience. My nose is so dodgy that I often need to check the notes because I smell things that are quite different, I think my nose and set of memory reference points can be slightly awry.

Anyway, how does Narcotic Venus smell on and to me?

Michael and I saw this lovely painting (Birth of Venus by Cabanel) while at the Musee d’Orsay in Feb 2014, purchased by Napoleon III at the 1863 Paris Salon which was the same year Manet showed ‘Luncheon on the Grass’ which we also saw. I think it a perfect representation of the cool, perfect, unsexy sensuality that Narcotic Venus displays. To be completely honest I like my narcotics more rough and in your face, this little baby is prim and pretty, and seems to be beautifully executed with expensive feeling ingredients but no raging sex kitten. Expectations have let me, and the frag, down I think. Such a shame because with a name like Nartcotic Venus I was hoping to be overwhelmed by a wall of white flowers with very dirty and sexy “come hither me hearty” attitude, sadly I am not. The end.

Narcotic Venus Nasomatto Alexandre_Cabanel Birth_of_Venus WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

Further reading: Scent For Thought and Perfume Shrine
LuckyScent has $185/30ml and samples
First In Fragrance has €118/30ml

What are your thoughts about the Nasomatto line? Which have you tried? Do you like the aesthetic of the brand?
Portia xx

Alpha Musc by Liz Zorn for SOIVOHLE

Heya Perfume Junkies,

It’s no secret that I love the SOIVOHLE (pronounced See-Voh) range. It is an acronym Sending Out Inspired Vibrations Of Healthy Loving Energy and I think Liz Zorn a dashing artist genius. We have chatted about her and SOIVOHLE quite a bit on APJ. Right now Liz is selling off the Mixed Media section of the fraghrance business and is going to concentrate on the naturals. It’s a sad day here for me and I have bought back up bottles of two of my favourite SOIVOHLE fragrances, Rosa sur Reuse and Jasmine Summer. Really I do not want to live without them. Tonight we are going to look at another fragrtance I love from the range that is currently at CLEARANCE prices.

Alpha Musc by Liz Zorn for SOIVOHLE

Alpha Musc SOIVOHLEPhoto Stolen SOIVOHLE

SOIVOHLE gives these featured accords in one line:
Patchouli, Moss, Vanilla, Pepper, Champaca Leaf, Animalic Musks
MUSC-CHYPRE-ANIMALIC

I get a chocolate vanilla with fabulously freaky green tinge on opening with Alpha Musc, a burning, searing scent that skirts the edges of overkill, never quite reaching the too much level but dangerously close. It has  a resinous, thick, treacle-ish quality that feels like the air has become too thick to breathe into my nose and lungs, a sensation only Alpha Musc has ever given me. It’s sweet and sweaty, dry, dusty and dank and though it’s a very full fragrance that demands attention still it is quite sheer, sheer AND dense.

Alpha Musc SOIVOHLE Treacle Graeme Maclean FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

As the initial fireworks subside the whole fragrance dries out and the pepper, cracked and ground, gives the choc/vanilla a savoury edge that makes it zing beautifully. A toasted tobacco note, sweetly honeyed but dry and dessicated rolls in and alongside the pepper is so unusual that it really makes my nose stand to attention to see what’s going to happen next. You know the smell of your dogs paws, that yeasty/urinous/furry scent that is like almost nothing else on earth? Alpha Musc smells nothing like it but there is something that feels as if that scent is being referenced obliquely. As if the idea of dogs feet has been put there, an echo, a nod, a whisper of what the real thing smells like. It may even smell a little like a Musk Deer, but I’ll never know. I have smelled some 60+ year old musk tincture of Jean Kerleo’s that he used while at Patou, there are very faint echoes of it here.

Alpha Musc SOIVOHLE Musk Deer WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

I have a motor bike and I leave my helmet in a plastic airtight box on the back. Sometimes if I have been riding a lot and the weather is warm I get a real animal musk scent from it when I first get it from the box. It’s a bed head and healthy sweaty man combination, sweet and very slightly sour, and the musks and vanilla in Alpha Musc remind me very much of this funky scent but ever so soft on deep dry down after I awake next morning. It is tantalisingly human and quite sexy but very, very muted.

Alpha Musc SOIVOHLE Nude_man WikiCommonsPhoto Stolen WikiCommons

Where would I wear Alpha Musc? It is a wear anywhere, smell good, slightly feral comfort scent. Only in the first hour need you worry about skunking the severely anti fragrance types but everyone else will bask in your beautiful soft, naked, healthy skin sillage. About 3 hours mildly fragrant before heading towards close skin scent.

SOIVOHLE is clearing out Alpha Musc: Sample $2/ 11ml $25/ 50ml $50
You have to get it before it’s gone.
Which of the SOIVOHLEs do you know?
Portia xx

Louis Vuitton Presents the Milan City Guide

Yoo HOO!

Whether you love to travel or you love to watch short pieces about travel then the Louis Vuitton Travel Guides are excellent under 3 minute extravaganzas of interesting things you’d probably never think to do when traveling to particular cities, and new ways to look at the city when you get there.

milan cathedral vivianamartinelli1979 PixabayPhoto Stolen Pixabay

I have not yet made it to Milan but now it has jumped to a place in my Top 10.
Enjoy!
Portia xx

Louis Vuitton Presents the Milan City Guide

Fleurs de Cerisier L`Eau GIVEAWAY WINNERS

Hey Hey APJ,

Here we are already: 2015. Fingers crossed we all have a fun, fragrant, fabulous year full of friends and prosperity. A year to remember for all the good stuff that happened.

Feels good already.

Portia xx

Happy-New-year-2015 TechBeastsPhoto Stolen TechBeasts

Fleurs de Cerisier L`Eau GIVEAWAY WINNERS

L`Occitane en Provence

Fleurs de Cerisier L`Eau L`Occitane en Provence FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Lemon, black currant, water melon
Heart: Cherry blossom, rose, orchid, white flowers
Base: Woodsy notes, musk

WHAT COULD YOU WIN?

This week we will have 2 Winners:
AUSSIE WINNER:
50ml Fleurs de Cerisier L`Eau EdT (Sprayed for Testing)+ 250ml Fleurs de Cerisier L`Eau Shower Milk
INTERNATIONAL WINNER:
30ml Fleurs de Cerisier L`Eau Hand Cream
P&H

HOW DID YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

You must tell me how you follow APJ and whether you are AUSSIE or INTERNATIONAL

and

Tell us about a cherry or blackcurrant fragrance you love, or a L’Occitane product that you love.

Extra Chance?
Tweet:   L`Occitane Fleurs de Cerisier L`Eau GIVEAWAY   

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Closed Thursday 1st January 2015 10pm Australian EST
Winners were chosen by random.org

winners-are prospectsplusPhoto Stolen prospectsplus

Australian: Christine

International: Sherry

CONGRATULATIONS!! The winners will have till Sunday 4th January 2015 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

 

Poivre Piquant by Bertrand Duchaufour for L`Artisan Parfumeur 2002

Heya Frag Fiends,

I have a little love affair going with one of my bottles bought very early on in my admitted and embraced perfumistahood. It’s a gourmand, which I take to mean it’s foody, not your average bakery scent though, not all sugary vanilla sweetness. Today’s fragrance is the most sophisticated and grown up of the gourmands that I know. Interesting, delicious and surprising while being totally wearable. A rare combination of freaky, cool and easy.

Poivre Piquant by L`Artisan Parfumeur 2002

By Bertrand Duchaufour

Poivre Piquant L`Artisan Parfumeur FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Honey, white pepper, milk, licorice, sugar, woody notes

UK L’Artisan site says: Poivre Piquant is inspired by a wedding story in the Kama Sutra. Sugar and pepper were sprinkled on the bride’s wedding veil. Sugar for the sweetness of life, pepper for the sparkling joy (and sensuality!) to come. This blend of white hot pepper tempered with milky woody notes is sharp, soft and burning all at once. A hint of liquorice and honey round off this elegant essay in aphrodisiac desire.

Poivre Piquant L`Artisan Scents of SelfPhoto Stolen Scents Of Self

Wet pepper, bell pepper freshly cut, zingy, fresh and ready to eat in a delicious and healthy salad. In a few minutes though a very asian stir fried honey dish bursts through, sweet and sticky and spicy. The pepper has become dry cracked pepper and fizzy fun pink pepper with a milkiness that could come from adding a small lick of coconut milk to what may easily be the dish of the day. Though I am exaggerating the meal-ish aspects of Poivre Piquant, that is what comes to my mind on wearing. Suddenly I’m in a fabulous Australian/Asian fusion restaurant, it’s hip and clean, filled with laughter, chatter and the subtle sounds of wooden chopsticks hitting porcelain. Mouth watering dishes sizzle and steam as they are brought to hungry diners. You can even smell the hot fires burning in the background.

Poivre Piquant L`Artisan pepper Ginger chicken WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

Poivre Piquant lasts around 3-4 hours but only the first hour do I have any major sillage and it is an extremely selfish wear because projection needs about 7 spritzes for anyone to even notice it. On the other hand, I get fabulous huffs coming up my shirt for 3 of those four hours, sometimes wet, sometimes spicy and sometimes sweet and hot. It’s like a circular fragrance where we get a spiral of fragrance that keeps letting different notes and combinations jump out at you through the whole life rather than a regular note pyramid. It’s cool, classy and fun. Excellent cool weather wear and a totally different ride in the heat, more refreshing than warming.

Poivre Piquant L`Artisan pepper weinstock PixabayPhoto Stolen Pixabay

Further reading: Scents of Self and Bois de Jasmin
Libertine Parfumerie have $186/100ml with FREE Australian Delivery
L’Artisan France has €100/100ml
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $4/ml

Have you spent any time with this L’Artisan lovely?
Portia xx

Fleurs de Cerisier L`Eau by L`Occitane en Provence 2015

Hiya APJ crew,

We are coming to the end of 2014 and my friend Lesley at L’Occitane Australia has sent me a pack of their newest 2015 Limited Edition fragrance. Fleurs de Cerisier L`Eau basically translates as Cherry Blossom Water. I love that we are able to bring you the pre release of this

Fleurs de Cerisier L`Eau by L`Occitane en Provence 2015

Fleurs de Cerisier L`Eau L`Occitane en Provence FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Lemon, black currant, water melon
Heart: Cherry blossom, rose, orchid, white flowers
Base: Woodsy notes, musk

Fleurs de Cerisier L`Eau’s opening is sweet and tart, the lemon and black current combo is a very sassy, lip puckering, fruity, fizzzy fun experience, like a Sour Gum and all wrapped up in quite easily definable watermelon. I like it a lot. If the opening of Enchanted Forest by The Vagabond Prince was a little too screechy and urinous for you (I did not have this problem but there was plenty of cyber-chatter about it) then this could be your antidote, in Fleurs de Cerisier L`Eau the blackcurrant is tamed by its surrounds into a less ferocious beast, yet still it has some claws.

Fleurs de Cerisier L`Eau L`Occitane tokyo-cherry-blossom TokyoTimesPhoto Stolen TokyoTimes

The flowers in the heart are really a beautifully blended bouquet for me, they are pretty and fresh but no match for the fruits that linger well into the dry down, there is a very nice time in the heart of the fragrance when I am seriously reminded of eating cherries with my Mum when she would bring home a box from the market in January. We’d all sit in the kitchen and gorge ourselves on them. That bitter sweet bite through the skin into the soft magenta purple flesh that was so incredibly delicious and we’d keep eating till the box was empty, I don’t even remember if we saved some for Dad. About 3 hours later we’d all be hit with tummy cramps and the worst bout of diarrhoea but it was worth it. Ha Ha Ha! I’m laughing at the memory, the same thing would happen with plums in March and apricots in November. A general clean out.

Fleurs de Cerisier L`Eau L`Occitane Blackcurrant GeographUKPhoto stolen GeographUK

Anyway, the blackcurrant lasts all the way to dry down when the softly pretty wash of almost fragrance underneath it warms it slightly. I have to give L’Occitane points right now, they have made a super fresh, wearable blackcurrant scent without adding in the currently ubiquitous bakery notes, no vanilla, almond or pastry to be sniffed at all, COOLIO. Great longevity for something marketed as a L’Eau at between 4-5 hours, though only the first 3 hours are very fragrant, then the still fresh and slightly tart base hums along fading, fading…….

giveaway kbairdPhoto Stolen kbaird

Fleurs de Cerisier L`Eau GIVEAWAY

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have 2 Winners:
AUSSIE WINNER:
50ml Fleurs de Cerisier L`Eau EdT (Sprayed for Testing)+ 250ml Fleurs de Cerisier L`Eau Shower Milk
INTERNATIONAL WINNER:
30ml Fleurs de Cerisier L`Eau Hand Cream
P&H

HOW DO YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

You must tell me how you follow APJ and whether you are AUSSIE or INTERNATIONAL

and

Tell us about a cherry or blackcurrant fragrance you love, or a L’Occitane product that you love.

Extra Chance?
Tweet:   L`Occitane Fleurs de Cerisier L`Eau GIVEAWAY   

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Thursday 1st January 2015 10pm Australian EST and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winners will be chosen by random.org
The winners will have till Sunday 4th January 2015 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

Nuxe Prodigieux Le Parfum vs Le Labo Lys 41 – Battle of the summer beach florals

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Post by Willa Zheng

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Dear fumenerds,
It’s summertime here in the Southern hemisphere, and the living is easy. School is out and we wile away endless sunny days by the water. Our skins glisten with sunscreen, various body oils, sweat, and the salty sea water. There’s an almost permanent lingering fragrance of jasmine, gardenia and frangipani in the air.

Nuxe Prodigieux Le Parfum vs Le Labo Lys 41

Battle of the summer beach florals

It was no wonder then, when I first tried on Nuxe’s famous huile predigieux, it had me at first whiff. But it was a body oil, and body oil fragrances generally don’t last. (Although Roger & Gallet have come up with some exceptional fragranced body oils of late…) Then, I was introduced to Le Labo’s Lys 41 (2013) earlier this year. I thought I was whiffing Nuxe, albeit in the guise of an expensive French perfume. Henceforth, I am dedicating this month’s smackdown to my two favourite scents of the summer.

Lys 41 by Daphne Bugey for Le Labo 2013

Lys 41 Le Labo FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Jasmine, tuberose, lily, woody notes, vanilla, musk

Lily fragrances come in two guises: either a spicy clove like Anais Anais, or a salty fleshy white floral. Lys 41 is definitely an interpretation in the latter category.
Created by Daphné Bugey from Firmenich, it is a salty lily dropped into a gardenia-jasmine-tuberose white floral combo. The combination of salt and luscious white florals reminds the wearer of sand, naked flesh and coconut oil. It has an incredible Proustian effect and without the saltiness, I think this would have been another generic white floral, albeit made with very high quality ingredients and skillfully constructed.

Happily, Lys41 is relatively linear and full bodied. Gardenia is more noticeable in the initial first half hour, then jasmine comes to the forefront. Four hours in, in a creamy vanillary bed, the jasmine softens and you can detect faint mentholated tuberose. The drydown is vanilla and woods. I found the silage to be moderate and the fragrance carried itself right until bedtime. Excellent longevity.

Prodigieux Le Parfum by Serge Majoullier for Nuxe 2012

Prodigieux Le Parfum Nuxe FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Orange blossom, bergamot, mandarin orange, orange
Heart: Rose, magnolia, gardenia
Base: Vanilla, coconut milk, pebbles

Start with monoi coconut oil, mix in some generic unscented suncreen to tone down and thin out the floral notes a level, squirt some orange peel oil, go for a dip in a salt water chlorinated pool, and you’ve pretty much recreated your own Nuxe Prodigieux experience.

The citrus lends a sour quality to this fragrance, like a synthetic ripe-banana. It clashes with the other synthetic notes and can cause some people to complain that this smells rancid and cheap. But it’s also the smell of spf, mixed with whatever coconut scented oils you’ve added on top. My mind instantly wanders to languid summer days spent by the beach, catching salty sea breezes. So do give Prodigieux a chance. On me longevity is 6hrs+ but it gets thin after 1hr. Silage is moderate.

Verdict:

Lys41 is a white floral perfume, a very well made and concentrated fine fragrance. Nuxe Prodigieux may as well have been labelled a ‘monoi tanning oil scent’ body spray. But the notes in both are so evocative that you only need an occasional whiff of it before you start to salivate, your mind begins to wander and you long for endless summer days.
For the price, I will keep dousing myself in Nuxe.

What is your favourite scent of summer vacations?
Willa Zheng

Dolce&Gabbana Summer 2015 Advertising Campaign

Woo Hoo!

For a while there I thought Dolce&Gabbana were losing their touch, the sparkle and zing were fading from their runways and advertising. I was worried that they were concentrating too hard on makling diffusion stuff and little to none on their Haute stuff.

dolce-and-gabbana-summer-2015-women-women-men-fashion-show-mainPhoto Stolen Dolce&Gabbana

Here they are again, third or fourth successive season doing fabulous, elegant, wearable (if you’re a coltish young thing) and wonderful. For summer 2015 they hit the bullfighting arena for both men and women, see the clip because it’s so simple and lovely. Also, I am thrilled to see spots and dots back on the menu, I miss them when they’re gone…

Portia xx

Dolce&Gabbana Summer 2015 Advertising Campaign

Hermès Cuir d’Ange by Jean-Claude Ellena for Hermès 2014

Hello my lovelies,

The other day I was in town to get shouted at by my accountant. Luckily for both of us he didn’t shout but he did get quite sober a couple of times and gave me dry looks of disbelief and incomprehension. He is generally quite genial and full of bonhomie and we did have a few laughs but still I felt like a very naughty boy. Aside from that I was lucky enough to get a motor bike parking space right in the center of Sydney’s CBD (Central Business District) and trotted into Hermès to see my favourite SA there Jean. Jean of the sexiest voice known to woman, the friendliest smile and the most elegant figure. I was on a mission, having tried (and adored) Cuir d’Ange at the Hermès store in the Bellagio, Las Vegas because my mate and co-contributor here Val the Cookie Queen had raved, it was time to get myself a sample and really come to terms with it.

Hermès Cuir d’Ange by Jean-Claude Ellena for Hermès 2014

Hermessence No 12

Cuir d`Ange Hermes FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica give these featured accords in one line:
Heliotrope, hawthorn, violet, narcissus, musk and leather

Now, Cuir d’Ange is so Jean Claude Ellena, from the opening fireworks and can can girls squealing their lungs out in brand new chorus heels, slightly sweaty and a trifle tannery, their corsets silk all musty and a little dank from years of wear and poor ventilation in the store room, ripe with their yearnings and disappointments. Really, this is exactly what I smell in Cuir d’Ange’s first 15 minutes, the story unfolds and I even get whiffs of the resins they use to give their chorus shoes grip and slide. There is also something of feet in Cuir d’Ange, a worn shoe, a well loved leather jacket or a vintage leather and fur purse.

Hermès Cuir d’Ange Toulouse-Lautrec WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

Having spent some time with CB I Hate Perfumes Narcissus I really can smell its disgustingly gorgeous ripeness, over ripe ness that has me both retching and reaching for more. It really brings that shoe/bag worn and loved feel and I am enjoying it immensely. It could even be the scent of a ballet shoe after a show, maybe the next day. Though now Cuir d’Ange has softened considerable and I think it would be only slightly noticeable sillage if I walked past you in the office, certainly hardly noticeable at all in a bar until you got very close to me. We are at about the one hour mark and I really love how this extremely soft, highly nuanced concoction keeps surprising me.

Hermès Cuir d’Ange Ballet Shoes MinasCreativeExpressionsPhoto Stolen MinasCeativeExpression

It’s a very circular fragrance, the notes seem to return at odd intervals, darting out and back to keep your nose on its toes. A lovely ride. You could easily wear Cuir d’Ange in a work situation and it will be killer for date night, a real stealth bomber through the movie and not overpowering for dinner. I can feel a 15ml bottle coming on, at least. I might even wear the rest of my sample on New Years Eve.

Further reading: Australian Perfume Junkies, Bois de Jasmin and Grain de Musc
If your city doesn’t have a Hermès store you should probably move
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $4/ml

Do you like the Hermèssence range? Is Jean Claude Ellena to your liking or are you meh?
Portia xx