Love is All by Christophe Raynaud for Guerlain 2005


Kate Apted


Well hello there, APJ family! We all made it to 2019. I hope your bellies are beginning to subside and you have practiced saying/writing 2019 instead of 2018.

A few months back, I was doing my usual perfume rotation and I found a couple bottles of perfume I had been saving for the ‘right time’. Obscure, not terribly exciting ones that I had left for whatever reason. One of these was Love is All by Guerlain. It was released in 2005, around the same time as quite a few misses from the house. I am really not too sure what was happening behind the scenes at Guerlain at this time, but teen growing pains at LVMH ownership may have been part of it. I’ll explain why in a moment.

Love is All by Christophe Raynaud (2005) for Guerlain

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When over spraying is Scandalous – A lesson in the subtle art of applying perfume


Kate Apted


A hearty good evening to you all from balmy Melbourne. Well, it is for now; tomorrow might be another thing.

For months, I have been making my way through a 200ml bottle of Scandal shower gel by the one and only Jean Paul Gaultier. A quick spray on a card when it was first released confirmed it isn’t my style. I found it sweet, waxy and all too flighty. There was a Pentavite* vitamin drops note to it that annoyed the hell out of me. I happened upon the shower gel at an absolute steal, though, and gave it a chance.

After my first use of the gel, I found a lingering note of bees’ wax. A thick, rich, almost honeyed milk type of note. I had washed my hair with the gel too and adored the gentle warmth of the bees’ wax that emanated from me all day. It has been a good ten uses later and I find myself craving the enveloping depth of the wax. I have made a truce with the Pentavite vitamin note, strangely. It also heralds the end of my bottle of gel.

Rather than try to track down an inflated priced replacement, it made financial sense to source a bottle of the EDP. So, I did.

Scandal by Daphne Bugey, Fabrice Pellegrin and Christophe Raynaud for Jean Paul Gaultier (2017)


Fragrantica – Fragrantica lists the following notes: honey, patchouli, bees’ wax, blood orange, gardenia, caramel, licorice, orange blossom, peach, jasmine, mandarin orange.


My fatal mistake was to over spray myself. Just don’t. Take it from me, Scandal smells infinitely better with one, maybe two, sprays on the decolletage. I applied my usual 7 sprays and moaned for the rest of the evening that I could smell NOTHING! A very vague sweetness with a ghost of an orange blossom or something. No trace of the dense wax at all! Not even Pentavite. Then, last Thursday night, I absent mindedly applied one quick spritz on my chest and continued on with the clothes washing. Miraculously, an hour later, it registered in my brain that the wax was there in all its abundant glory.

I tried two sprays after showering with the last of my gel Saturday morning. All I could sense until lunch time was the golden elixir of bees’ wax.

So, the very simple moral of my story is to be judicious in how one applies perfume. Something that may have not appealed in the past, or didn’t release a particular note may have just been applied in a manner not intended. It may take a bit of playing around with some perfumes to bring their best sides out. Much like relating to people, I suppose. Our relationship to our perfumes are never really fixed and much can be discovered by exploring the myriad of ways we might wear it. Trying different formats helps to familiarise one’s self to a new scent, or even find new facets to an over looked cheapie.

Have you ever discovered you were wearing a scent wrong? Or have you used a scent you dislike in perfume form, only to enjoy it in another format?

Be safe, APJ family, in this busy time of year.

Kate xx

*Pentavite vitamin drops were commonly used with tins of Carnation evaporated milk to feed babies in the early 1970s in Australia. Particularly if the mother could not breastfeed her child.

D600 by Christophe Raynaud for Carner Barcelona 2010


Post by Portia


Heya Fragrant Fumies,

D600 is a stupid name for a fragrance, GAK! Then I find out it’s affiliated with their address in Barcelona according to Birgit at Olfactoria’s Travels it stands for Avenida Diagonal 600, the headquarters of the line in Barcelona. Onwards from that the Carner Barcelona site says All senses are captivated by the dynamism of Avenida Diagonal, the grandeur of Paseo de Gracia…A seamless blending of old and new. At night, the pulse deepens and darkens as the city reveals its mysterious and most sensual side.

D600 by Carner Barcelona 2010

D600 by Christophe Raynaud

D600 Carner Barcelona FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Carner Barcelona gives these featured accords:
Top: Madagascan Black Pepper, Sicilian Bergamot, Grapefruit
Heart: Guatemalan Cardamom, Italian Iris, Egyptian Jasmine Absolut
Base: Virginian Cedar Wood, Madagascan Vanilla Absolut, Vetyver.

I love the zip, fizz and sizzle of grapefruit in fragrance. Here Christophe Raynaud has paired it strikingly with fresh crushed black pepper which serves to dry and remove all the ultra sweet, urinous notes that people find so problematic. The introduction lasts very little time before a lovely cardboard and rooty iris come through and the cardamom is playing a lightly green spicy role that is exactly like ground cardamom in the bottle before you cook it. For all its ingenuity D600 is perfectly wearable, actually while remaining quite fragrant it seems to meld with and melt into my skin. Too noticeable to be a skin scent but not air altering enough to become a major, stop traffic statement.

It seems the jasmine and vanilla arrive together, creamy, balmy, smooth and elegant they wander in and D600 becomes a warm, cozy, comfort scent with a hint of cardamom and vetiver keeping the whole fragrance from becoming a gourmand.

D600 by Carner Barcelona Dad AdinaVoicu PixabayPixabay

My review makes D600 seem simple but it’s not, there is a lot of soft nuance and dappled sweet/dryness byplay. The vanilla is fleshy and sensual, human and cuddly. For hard core perfumistas it may be too easy to like, too reminiscent of other comfortable vanilla/amber fragrances and too nice. That’s what I want from a fragrance, I want to smell so good that not hugging me to get a closer whiff would be unthinkable. An excellent mother or father scent worn as a signature and a comfort, being both very intimate and lovingly safe. Perfect as a work scent that would work under the radar to make you even more likable and assured.

Wear is soft and projection mild but anyone lucky enough to get in close to you over the next 6 or 7 hours will get a waft of wonderful. I love it.

D600 had the same luminous, luxurious feeling that I get when wearing Mona di Orio’s Vanille. It’s a plush languor and tranquillity that feels so deliciously me, as if it were made for me alone. LOVE it!

D600 by Carner Barcelona languor PexelaPexels

Further reading: Olfactoria’s Travels and Scented Hound
First In Fragrance has €89/50ml + Samples

Have you tried any of the Carner Barcelona fragrances? What is your languorous fragrance?
Portia xx