Kolonya by Rasei Fort

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Portia

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Hi there Perfume Lovers,

Rasei Fort is the talented perfumer behind the Fort and Manlé brand. Kolonya is his first fragrance created under his own name, the start of something quite broad hopefully. The story he told me about the creation of Kolonya is so good I wanted to share it with you. Rasei has a demijohn in his studio that he’s been adding bits and pieces to for years. It is a combination and the culmination of very unscientific production. Whenever it’s macerated for a while he has a sniff and thinks about what it needs, then adds that and leaves it to brew. Finally in late 2018 he decided it was done.

He gave some ideas to his mate who works with wood for the packaging The finished rosewood product is beautiful to hold, every one hand created.

Because there’s no recipe, this is all there will ever be of Kolonya. Rasei thinks there will be about 300 bottles but isn’t sure if there’ll even be that many. About one fifth are already sold.

Kolonya by Rasei Fort

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Cologne? What Does It Mean?

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Post by Lindaloo

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Hey Hey APJ,

Recently on APJ we had a very pertinent question about the different uses of the word cologne in fragrance. One of our regular readers and commenters came up with the best description I’ve ever seen of the differences.

Here’s what dictionary.com says:
Cologne
1: Noun: a mildly perfumed toilet water; eau de Cologne
2: Noun: an industrial city and river port in W Germany, in North Rhine-Westphalia on the Rhine

Cologne? What Does It Mean?

1280px-Flickr_-_…trialsanderrors_-_Moon_over_Cologne,_Germany,_ca._1895Wikipedia

Lindaloo says:
Good reasons that the word “cologne” can be so confusing. Sometimes it does mean a name for men’s scents versus women’s, as it hard to convince an average man that a scent labelled as anything other than cologne is only for women.
Other times it refers simply to the the strength of the scent — EdP/parfum has more fragrant oils compared to EdT/toilette compared to EdC/cologne. Often it is more complicated in that different strengths are different in what aspects of the scent they emphasize.
Then there is “cologne” as a style of scent, ie lots citrus and herbs at the start moving to a mossy drydown. So traditional cologne starts off very refreshing and moves to a cool dusty base. With the current restrictions on oakmoss, drydowns often involve different elements.
So Atelier colognes are EdP strength but a cologne structure.

Atelier CologneAtelier Cologne

Surrender To Chance has a great range of Atelier Cologne samples and minis.

Have you been to Cologne? What is your EdC?
Portia xx

Cologne Sologne by Patricia de Nicolai for Parfums de Nicolaï 1989

Hiya All,

Perfect summer fragrance time for you all in the Northern Hemisphere, and boy do I have a pretty one for you today. So as you may know I was at Michael Edwards fragrance clear out and while looking around I noticed a few very pretty softly rounded bottles with gold ridged caps. Not knowing what the bottle signified I passed them by. Then, one of the bottles label jumped out at me. Odalisque, er, odalisque….. OMG! Patricia de Nicoloai! So immediately I went scurrying back, looking for more but another perfumista must have noted who they were by before me so Olalisque and today’s fragrance were the only two original vintage PdN that I grabbed.

Cologne Sologne by Patricia de Nicolai for Parfums de Nicolaï 1989

Cologne Sologne Parfums de Nicolai FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Tunisian neroli, rosemary, orange blossom, benzoin

My worry initially was that Patricia de Nicolai fragrances are famous for short in bottle lifespans so I was affeared that the Cologne Sologne top notes, at least, would be gone. How good lucky I am, the rush of very pretty cologne-esque citrus and blooms that bursts out of the first spritz is lovely. A bright, simple cologne that is smile inducing and has summer all wrapped up in its fragrant folds. I think it would be an excellent summer spritz but here on a Sydney sunny winter day, temperature around 16C, Cologne Sologne is a vivid reminder that spring is coming quickly. Only 5 weeks till the first days of spring. How does time go so quickly?

Cologne Sologne Patricia de Nicolai 4 seasons mucha TrialsAndErrors FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

The orange goes all pithy and has a very soft indolic breathiness after the initial fireworks calm down. I just went out to the rosemary bush at the side of the house and the heart of Cologne Sologne isn’t really like it at all, but I can understand there is a nod to it. By the time I feel like there is any real herbal-ness the benzoin has moved in and created a lovely resinous overlay squashing everything else into bit parts. The warmth is very alluring and with the last gasp of citrus and blossom they play merrily together for a short while smelling like a cashmere shawl feels on a cool summer evening, just enough to warm you through and soft, soft, soft. So the resin is rejoined by the citrus later, or maybe my nose had become used to it. I went away from the computer and pottered around the house doing stuff for about an hour and what’s left  is the merest memory of fragrance both citrus and resin that has a decided vanilla-ness to it, pretty much gone really but hovering just above my skin.

Cologne Sologne Patricia de Nicolai Arctic Sunset FotoPediaPhoto Stolen Fotopedia

LuckyScent has 100ml/$40 and samples

It has been lovely wearing a cologne in the cool of a Sydney winter and I can just imagine how lovely Cologne Sologne would be in searing or steaming heat. Though it’s a simple, pretty composition I like its uncomplicated and fresh fragrance. It has a scent story that is both appealing and wearable for both sexes. Nice.

Portia xx

 

Pure White (Original) Cologne by Olivier Creed VI for Creed 2011

Hello APJ,

We had a great day here yesterday, a bunch of friends around for a BarBQ enjoying the last warm weeks before we start to head towards the cooler months. Ten great friends all eating Jin’s famous BarBQ Chilli Pork, sausages, salads and bread rolls. We all drank heaps of sweet fruity wines, couchon reisling and moscato and laughed the day away. These are the days I will remember and cherish, like perfect gifts to mull over and reminisce about. We are so blessed.

Pure White (Original) Cologne by Creed 2011

pure-white-colognePhoto Stolen CREED

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: lemon, bergamot and grapefruit.
Heart: galbanum, neroli and pear.
Base: gray amber (ambergris), white musk and rice.

Just a little back story: Pure white Cologne was introduced last year as Original Cologne so that the people who bought it in the first year would have a fabulous collectors item. That is a fun idea but so annoying because now all other reviews are now out of date which strikes me as a bad marketing move.

The citrus opening is sweet and bright and hugely gorgeous, enough to attract orange beetles I reckon. Unleavened citrus beyond anything I’ve ever smelled and fun to boot. It takes a while for the next phase to become noticeable because it creeps up slowly and stealthily through the magnificent wonder that is the opening. What I first get is a softening of the citrus for a soft pear waft, it is both sweeter and dryer that the opening and green rather than sugary. That doesn’t make sense but it is the way I read the progression. It may hark back to fragrance of yesteryear but to me this is fun freshness, a beautiful green smoothy of a fragrance, a sweet and sour bite that says, “Though you are dressed  in a suit and fully, handsomely masculine, you are also edgy, naughty and spontaneous.” I expect a cologne to have little lasting power but Pure White Cologne by CREED outdistances many of its EdT and EdP counterparts and smells like money has been spent on the ingredients. As it should for the asking price. I am getting about 3 hours of fragrance and about the same of warm skin scent, though I get no hint of the rice in the base.

If we had an unlimited budget or were 3 fragrance happy then Pure White Cologne would definitely make the short list for a summer fragrance.

From the CREED site:
New in CREED’s Royal Exclusives Collection, Pure White Cologne evokes men’s styles in Victorian England: clean grooming, tailored white shirts and lives made richer by quality goods of impeccable detail.  Pure White Cologne wraps the client like a garment stitched to his exact proportions, fitting and superb in every respect, a complement to his innate style and a statement of his high standing.  Pure White Cologne has been compared to a burst of English mist, a fine and clean sensation on the skin like when a train blurs past, sending a gust of cooling moisture onto every pore, as in the 1844 J.M.W. Turner painting, “Rain, Steam and Speed.”

J_M_W_Turner_-_RainSteamandSpeedJ M W Turner Rain, Steam and Speed Photo Stolen WikiMedia

The CREED site has 30ml $205
SurrenderToChance starts at .5ml/$3

Do you wear any of the CREED line? Have you tried this one?

Till tomorrow,

Portia xx

Shalimar EdC by Guerlain 1925

Hiya Perfumistas,

As some of you already know Jacques Guerlain created Shalimar in 1925, inspired by the legendary love story between Mughal Indian Emperor Shah Jahan and his lowly born wife Mumtaz Mahal. He loved her so much that when she died he nearly bankrupted his empire by building the Taj Mahal as her tomb, when he started work on a matching black granite edifice on the opposite shore of the river in Agra his sons imprisoned him and kept him incarcerated till his death. Having been twice to the Taj Mahal, the second time spontaneously bursting into tears as it came into view and having to take a seat while my BFF Kath photographed, I think Shalimar a fitting tribute to a love that tore a family, a man’s mind and nearly an empire apart when it was done. I have loved it since my Mum and her friends wore it when I was a child.

Shalimar EdC by Guerlain 1925


Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Today I decided it was time to have an opening ceremony for my incredible Vintage Shalimar EdC find, pre 1990’s but after the bar code was introduced because there is a b/c at the bottom and some Arabic writing there too. Anyone? Still in the lovely shiny embossed gold with matte navy and white box.

Photo Stolen Shopping

Oh boy! OH BOY! It goes on with a rush and susurrus of vanilla that took me so completely by surprise that I missed the entrance of the citrus which all of a sudden appeared and became nearly the sole focus; with vanilla still in the background.

About 15 minutes of these lovely citrus notes and then they are overtaken by the base, there seems to be no stopover in the floral department at all, like it’s been quickly and quietly swept under the carpet. Now it’s back to the incredible woodsy inedible vanilla with unpickable stuff lurking around trying to get noticed but being crushed under the jeweled bootlet of vanilla and wood.

Quite a different experience to my vintage or current parfum or my current EdP , still Shalimar but bolder in some ways and less pronounced in others. Even its staying power is quite good at 2 hours so far and no sign of diminution. I am at around 2 hours starting to get a light leather though, newish leather but soft, curling around the vanilla and giving it a fresh depth. I am reading my book and coming back to type every so often when new facets of the fragrance manifest, what a lovely way to spend a winter afternoon.

Interesting, at about 2.5 hours there is a definite floral intrusion over the top of all else and through it, now that the flowers have decided to make their presence known properly it seems they were there all along but just happy to bide their time filling the fragrance out softly. The extremely powdery iris and soft jasmine/rose accords. I am in heaven.

At just over 3 hours I am left with a sweet, woody, maybe patchouli I can’t quite read it because my Shalimar EdC has become so whispery quiet, still there but I have lost the ability to parse its notes. That was so good, so perfect, I think this is my favourite Shalimar incarnation that I own. It has been a satisfying ride and I am replete.

We are at around 4.5 hours and I just got a citrus and vanilla waft as I turned the page of my book. Still there still humming along. EdC! 4.5 hours! Ridiculously wonderful. Thank you Guerlain.

Thanks for coming along on my fragrant mental wanderings, that you do makes me happy. I hope it brings you joy as well.

On the Perfume Posse today my mate David Watson and I have done a LIVE VIDEO SNIFF. So gay it hurts. Go see.

Do you have a Shalimar story to share, I love them.

Portia xx