I Scream for LEATHER!

August 4, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 16 Comments

Post by Ainslie Walker

I scream for LEATHER! (Probably part 1)

Call me slow off the mark, but in the past few weeks I have been OBSESSED with scents containing leather. I’ve always “liked” them but suddenly I cannot get enough of them! I am wearing them daily, sometimes 2 per day. It may have all started when I purchased some new leather boots and enjoyed the smell wafting from the box in the car and upon opening. Also it’s winter and leather containing scents seem to warm me and as they warm on my skin I enjoy smelling the deep layers. Maybe it could just be my nose is maturing and like a beagle catching a scent trail, I AM OFFICIALLY OBSESSED.

Here’s two I have recently discovered and been wearing in my travels over the past few weeks.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Divin`Enfant by Etat Libre D’Orange

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Orange blossom, marshmallow, rose, mocha, coffee, leather, amber, musk, tobacco

I LOVE orange blossom at the best of times but, as the blurb says, this fragrance is the “Orange Blossom Renegade.” Leather, tobacco, amber, musk, rose, coffee and MARSHMALLOW all dance along to the beat of orange blossom’s drum. Highly addictive is it’s sweet-rose and gooey marshmallow core, innocent, until tobacco and leather punch through like (young) James Dean just rocked up on his bike. Unlit hand rolled cigarette in mouth and leather jacket on, complete with minor coffee spill down his sexy front. The orange blossom glows from amongst these ingredients and gives a touch of soft “baby bottom” smell mothers talk about. It takes me out of this world to a new and whimsical place, which so many from this brand do. It’s a beauty and available at Sephora in Sydney or Peony Melbourne (who will post it out in Oz)

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Cuir Sacré by Ateliers Des Ors 2015

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Juniper berry, Cardamom, Cypress
Heart: Frankincense, Saffron, Cedar leaf
Base: Vetiver, Cypriol oil, Leather

Atelier Des Ors launched earlier in 2015, with five sumptuous fragrances in the sparkling, gold-filled collection. Peony in Melbourne is the exclusive stockest in Australia. Whilst there I sprayed Cuir Sacré and looked closely at my skin. REAL gold flakes have somehow escaped from the bottle! I massage them in with my fingertip and marvel at my skins new luxe luminance! The dominant leathery aura above instantaneously hisses of strong and lustful sophistication as it hits my olfactory receptors. It’s not just good it’s a KNOCKOUT! Every time I’ve worn it since, I feel a million dollars. Compliments are endless and two of my friends now are buying their own. What is this magical potion? Why does it hypnotise us so? I pinpoint the decadence in it’s dry down and liken it to the smell of the most luxurious new leather handbag, mixed with an elegant note of luminous saffron and shivering vetiver grass, lifted with cardamon. Also listed is Juniper berries, cypress, incense, cedarwood leaf and cypriol. I am surprised not to see rose absolute or something deeply earthy yet floral in there, as on me I can smell something so so pretty. Perhaps it’s just everything working synergistically? This leather is gold. Pleasure seeking individuals must try!

Both these lovelies are available at Peony Melbourne and First In Fragrance who also have samples

What leather containing fragrances do you scream for?

(BTW you can follow my scented adventures via my Instagram: ainslie_walker)
Ainslie Walker x

Fragrances For What Ails You?

May 5, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 14 Comments

Post by Ainslie Walker

Hello fragrance fans, I’ve realised some members of my fragrance collection have become a fragrant first-aid kit for my more common ailments. Grabbing fragrances based on how I am feeling physically, loosely based on the aromatherapeutic properties of their notes, cheers me up no end.

*Please note all the below has only been tested on one human being, no animals and are not recommended without perhaps some other medications, where prescribed

Fragrances For What Ails You?

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Nausea – Etat Libre d’Orange – Like This – full of carminative baked ginger cookie smell this warm combination can ease waves of nausea like no tomorrow. Dosage: spritz on stomach 2 x per day

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Insomnia – Crawling into bed and suddenly my eyes pop open and my brain comes alive with activity!! So I reach for Aqua Allegoria Lavande Velours by Guerlain, which stays, on my bedside table. Sprayed onto my pillow and sheets the powdery combination of lavender, iris and sandalwood takes me off to the land of nod in no time.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Muscular Aches, Pains and Tension – Sycomore by Chanel Les Exclusifs Earthy vetiver and grounding sandalwood I just love this fragrance sprayed just above a hot steamy bath, or when I’m feeling “extravagantly ache-y” a capful poured into the bath does wonders for ridding my body of all tension, aches and pains.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Run Down and Generally Germy – Potpourri by Santa Maria Novella’s mix of Italian herbs rosemary, thyme, patchouli and cloves make this an immune booster for those days when you know you’re coming down with something. Despite some prettier notes of carnation, bergamot, and peru balsam this fragrance smells deliciously medicinal and purifying.
(Side note, the Santa Maria Novella Collection will soon be available from Peony Melbourne)

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Chills – Serge Lutens – Jeux de Peau warms me up and makes me feel cosy and comfy. Almost like having a cup of hot milky tea and a massage with the warmest of warm hands. Use this fragrance when you feel chilled to the bone. A few spritz 1-2 x per day, once sprayed it just keeps on getting better and better as osmanthus reveals itself amongst the warm baked bread and buttery toasted coconut notes. Divine!

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Sore Throat – everyone knows a teaspoon of honey with cinnamon and spices soothes a sore throat and Mitzah by DIOR is the queen bee that soothes mine. Dosage: Spritz throat/chest area and wrap neck, where possible, with a leopard print scarf to stay warm and glamorous.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Headache – nanah mint features in Comme Des Garcons’ Play Green and applied to my temples and back of neck it cools and refreshes when I have a headache. Supporting notes of Basil, lime and juniper mean even when I am brain fatigued and lacking concentration this fragrances helps put some life back into me.

I think you can find samples of all of these at Surrender To Chance<<JUMP

So my fine fragrant friends tell me if you too use fragrant for your ills and if so in what combinations?

Xx Your Fragrant Nurse, Ainslie ;D

Secretions Magnifique by Antoine Lie for Etat Libre d'Orange 2006

March 12, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 32 Comments

Post by Poodle

Secretions Magnifique by Etat Libre d’Orange 2006

Secretions Magnifique by Antoine Lie

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Fucus, azurone (iodized accord), adrenaline accord, blood accord, milk accord, iris, coconut, sandalwood, Opoponax

Etat Libre d’Orange describes this as the “ode to the pinnacle of sexual pleasure.”

Umm…no.

There so much hype out there about this perfume I had to share my thoughts on it. In my opinion, Secretions Magnifique does not smell like sex. It’s not even sexy for that matter. Sex has a primal, animal quality to it even if you’re not in the mood and decide to lay back and think of England. Maybe on some level the notes call to mind certain body fluids but they are all contained in test tubes and Petrie dishes here, more like a lab or a crime scene instead of what remains clinging to warm sheets and skin after a sexual interlude. There’s no warmth here.

I’m not one of the people who wants to vomit when they smell this fragrance. That seems to be a common response to it. On my skin it’s VERY synthetic with flowers. Fake flowers. I can wear it but I find it to be depressing. It smells clinical. If I close my eyes and really think about the odor I am reminded of the years I worked as an Emergency Medical Technician. A friend said it reminded her of an emergency room too. It does, and to dissect it by the notes is difficult.

Photo Stolen WikiMedia

Secretions Magnifique is a scent of cold linoleum floors and fluorescent lights. It’s the air in the emergency room which seems a little chilly and the beads of sweat from the anxiety felt when you’re sitting there. It’s the look on the faces in the waiting room as they try not to cry when their Saturday night ends in a twist of metal on the road and someone close to them being looked at by a team of doctors behind a curtain. There’s that churning in the stomach from wondering is this going to turn out okay or will it be far worse than you imagined. It’s the metal of the stretchers and the hospital equipment shining in that cold, harsh light. It’s the bleach and disinfectants used to clean up what remains of someone, or of someone’s bad decision that will haunt them for a while. If you make it to the end there’s an almost plastic flowery sandalwood finish. I guess that’s the part where the patient gets out of the ER and into a room. Slightly warmer but still a far cry from sexy.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

No one is wearing Secretions Magnifique as a cuddle up scent. I don’t think it’s awful on me, just very, very cold. I’ve heard people say that some Chanel’s are cold due to the use of aldehydes. Those folks have never sniffed this I imagine.

Further reading: Olfactoria’s Travels and Bois de Jasmin
LuckyScent has $85/50ml
Surrender To Chance has $4.75/ml

Have you dared to sniff this one? Is it sexy to you?

Hugs
Poodle

Vierges et Toreros by Antoine Lie + Antoine Maisondieu for Etat Libre d`Orange 2007

December 24, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 9 Comments

Post by Trésor

It is my honest opinion that all of the best things in this life are dichotomies. Be it the vivid contrast of petals of crimson velvet and piercing, sinister thorns or the magnificent juxtaposition of a beautiful woman wearing a luxuriant piece of jewellery with her lover’s threadbare t-shirt. It’s a marvelous balance as one entity seems to bless the other with splendid context. Rarely is this concept more evident than in one of my most beloved tuberose elixirs, a study in the contrast of unbridled eroticism and graceful fragility of pulchritudinous vestal blossoms. Rarely is it so poignant as in Vierges et Toreros, a positively bewitching brew from the house of Etat Libre d’Orange.

Vierges et Toreros by Etat Libre d`Orange 2007

Antoine Lie + Antoine Maisondieu

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Bergamot, nutmeg, pepper, cardamom, ylang ylang, tuberose, leather, animalis, costus, patchouli, vetyver

The inception of Vierges et Toreros is something of a cataclysm, a bracing lightshow of sizzling black pepper and the undeniable titian hue of rich bergamot. The two collide with effervescent calamity, unapologetic and resolute in their tumultuous flight of combat. This sequence, harsh and captivating, makes way for a tremendously sexy accord of leather. Leather which I can only describe as possessing the naughty and immaculately subversive redolence of a man’s leather jock strap after a rather ambitious wearing. It’s unctuous, sweaty and blackened with oozing tar. An obsidian harness binds the blooming and narcotic tuberose that follows and defiles her virginal petals with exquisite filth.

Photo Stolen Wikipedia

As she spirals downward into an atramentous underground she begins to erupt flares of icy menthol and releases a petrol fog as if to celebrate her newfound state of being. There is an auerate glimmer of sweet nectar upon the petals of ylang ylang that have been showered with scintillating particles of warm nutmeg and enveloping cardamom; a masterful juxtaposition which ricochets the ambience of this composition into an entirely different realm. The mood has changed and the vapours rising from my skin now call to mind the intangibly beautiful erotic essence that rises from the bodies of two people who have just made love. Gone is the bondage and, it is now a luminous stratosphere of tenderness and warmth; the afterglow. In this base lays a smoky note of vetiver, cradled upon the most beautifully delicate patchouli leaves. It is this stage that is my favourite, each element of the composition can be traced by their illuminated tendrils that are traipsing soulfully through the olfactory fantasy. Now, with the volume lowered to an opiate hum is where I simply sit and take in the soft symphony playing out before myself and revel in the aromas until it finally fades into oblivion.

Photo Stolen Wikipedia

Vierges et Toreros lasts about 6 hours on my skin and wears quite beautifully with a sillage that is pronounced but not at all overpowering. A funny little side note: I often receive compliments when I wear this particular potion from just about everyone you could imagine. The last time I wore it both the receptionist at my dentist’s office and the man who prepared my drink at the coffee shop told me I smelled beautiful. Based upon that I can safely say it’s not just me enjoying another strange perfume, it’s actually pleasant to those around me as well. Trust me, that’s not always the case. Give Vierges et Toreros a go if you’re looking for a new twist on tuberose or just want to try a fragrance who’s beauty lays in how they are just a bit rough around the edges.

Photo Stolen WikiMedia

Further reading: Smelly Thoughts and Bois de Jasmin
Parfum1 has $85/50ml
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $4.75/ml

Have you tried this so called masculine tuberose? What did you think?
Trésor xx

Breathe: Afternoon Of A Faun: Etat Libre d’Orange

December 21, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 22 Comments

Sometimes APJ,

You can merely tread water and breathe, stand still, look around you for a moment and breathe. Three deep breaths, in through your nose and out through your mouth. It’s interesting how this small thing can put a little perspective on the world you inhabit. It gives you time to remember that no matter how bad your predicament, others are much worse off. It also gives you a moment to say thank You for something, anything, the one thing good you may be able to recall.

Tonight I am wearing

Afternoon Of A Faun by Ralf Schwieger for Etat Libre d’Orange 2012

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Bergamot, pepper, cinnamon, incense, immortelle, orris root, myrrh, leather, benzoin, rose, jasmine, oakmoss

I like to spritz like crazy and just sit somewhere quiet and breathe in the green peppery leather that is both warm and cool on my skin and works perfectly in winter and summer, giving almost entirely different rides in disparate temperatures.

Today it’s been a fizzy green citrus floral that burned down to a slightly sweaty leather/woods/incense feel after wearing it to work. Now I’m home and changed I enjoyed the ride so much I am doing it again.

Double spritz on chest and Breathe

Breathe

Aaaaaaah. Heaven.

I have been a super bitch this week. It’s the end of a completely fabulous year and I am tired, we are all cramped in this apartment, there is still masses of unpacking undone, Christmas is upon us and to be honest, I am a cranky ole bitch. It’s been a don’t even look at me the wrong way this week because I will gut you with a look and feed your entrails to the dogs with my words. Jin came and had a quiet word to me tonight about it and he is right.

Photo Stolen Pixabay

breathe

verb: breathe; 3rd person present: breathes; past tense: breathed; past participle: breathed; gerund or present participle: breathing

take air into the lungs and then expel it, especially as a regular physiological process.

“she was breathing deeply”
synonyms: inhale and exhale, respire, draw breath, puff, pant, blow, gasp, wheeze

Photo Stolen Flickr

Further reading: Chemist In A Bottle and The Non-Blonde
LuckyScent has $149/100ml
Etat Libre d’Orange has €110/100ml (Delivers to the world)
Surrender To Chance starts at $4.50/ml

What do you do when the world overwhelms you?

I could do with some hints……
Portia xxxx

I have written about Afternoon Of A Faun before and it was 22 December 2013!! How freaky is that?

Fils de Dieu du riz et des agrumes Etat Libre d`Orange

May 6, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 13 Comments

Post by Ainslie Walker

This fragrance was a blind buy on ebay. I liked the idea of smelling something ricey and inspired by the Phillipines. I read about notes of ginger, coriander, lime and shiso. Coconut, rose, cardamom, jasmine, cinnamon and rose. Tonka bean, vetiver, musk, amber, leather and castoreum – They sounded intriguing and reminiscent of a good Asian inspired Spa menu…

Fils de Dieu du riz et des agrumes

by Ralf Schwieger for Etat Libre D’Orange 2012

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica lists the following accords:
Top: Ginger, coriander, lime, shiso
Heart: Coconut, cardamom, jasmine, cinnamon, rose
Base: Tonka bean, vetiver, musk, amber, leather, castoreum

“Fils de dieu comes from the Philippines to spread a message of warmth and enlightenment. Here, find an innocent wisdom that points to dreams and liberation. This is the golden eye that reflects beauty and conflict, rapture and pain. Fils de dieu is an emotional fragrance, a scent that requires a sympathetic connection between the server and the served, the giver and the taker, and the willingness to exchange roles.” Controversially this fragrance was originally known as “Philippine Houseboy”

I did a sneaky snipe-purchase, getting the bottle for under $50.

Whist writing my review of Afternoon of a Faun, also by Etat Libre D’Orange I noticed it’s made by the same nose, Ralf Schwieger, in fact this was his first fragrance for them.

As soon as I collected my parcel from the post office I tore it open and sprayed it on my wrist. It was soft, powdery and ALMOST zesty..very citrusy, but more like the pith of a citrus fruit, not quite the fresh rind..possibly mandarine, tangerine and lime. I waited. I think I could smell some rice. Or something starchy, rounded. For a moment a glimpse of something from my memory…a year ago – eating “Thailands best” sticky rice and mango dessert in Bangkok..slightly ricey and very very slightly citrus-coconut.

Photo Stolen WikiMedia

Was it now heading down the route of an eu de cologne…? More pith, powder with some ginger and cardamom..softened by a hint of jasmine. Then it bent unexpectedly, to synthetic castoreum. The end….well not the end, actually, the castoreum hung around…dancing nearby was a hint of some slightly cheaper floral bouquet notes, a touch of sweet warmth..maybe cinnamon and amber and sweetened babypowder with a hint of citrus and slightly dirty, leathery castoreum….this combination of smells, conjoured all sorts of images..(Some I don’t like to see when in Asia) It is certainly soft, fresh enough and never going to be too strong in an office on a hot and humid day. For me however, what starts out as a beautiful hint at something different, ends up bland and boring.

Photo Stolen Wikipedia

Not one to give up, the next day I sprayed it on some smelling paper strips, and all day the wafts from that were AMAZING – soft and breezy reminding me of soft, cloudy, citrusy smells..a touch of pina colada coconut, sticky rice, some gingery lime salt scrub in a spa. Lime which in drinks always has a slight coconut scent to me. Sunshine. Happy thoughts.
The package has a sub heading; Files de dieu “du riz et des argrumes” son of god of rice and citrus – he brings the sunshine. On paper, both written and sprayed, yes he did.

Further reading: Australian Perfume Junkies and Candy Perfume Boy
Etat Libre d’Orange has €69/50ml
LuckyScent has $80/50ml
Posh Peasant has samples from $4/ml

Has anyone had better luck than me on their skin? I would love to hear about it.
Ainslie Walker x

The Afternoon of a Faun by Ralf Schwieger for Etat Libre d`Orange 2012

April 1, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 21 Comments

Post by Ainslie Walker

Named after a Russian Ballet, this fragrance certainly is a dance, and tells a story. But not a pretty one. Nor a sexy one either. According to Wikipedia, a faun is a rustic forest god or goddess of Roman mythology often associated with enchanted woods and the Greek god Pan and his satyrs. Half man, half goat. I’m thinking big sexy leather and man smells, but I’m getting A LOT more goat. Don’t get me wrong, I absolutely LOVE goats…but I think this this one’s going feral.

Photo Stolen Wikipedia

CS Lewis describes Mr. Tumnus, the Faun in his Narnia series as having reddish skin, curly hair, brown eyes, a short pointed beard, horns on his forehead, cloven hooves, goat legs with glossy black hair, a “strange but pleasant little face,” and a long tail.

The Afternoon of a Faun by Ralf Schwieger for Etat Libre d`Orange 2012

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Bergamot, pepper, cinnamon, incense, immortelle, orrisroot, myrrh, leather, benzoin, rose, jasmine, oak moss

I’m first hit with a big 80’s oak moss projection…My Dad wore grey flannel in the 80’s and it’s as if he has blasted past on his way out to work, doused. Saving the day, an aerated twist of iris and green dry foliage notes break in and take over. I feel its well structured, and giving me all the right imagery, but I’m not sure I like it. There’s something pungent. Daisies? Pee? Maybe it’s the immortelle?

WHERE’S THE PRETTY?

Not a pretty mix….more like some herbal witches brew. I WISH I could smell the jasmine or rose, but nope. I’d like to smell some hints of violets and more orris, for an enchanted forest, but no. Suddenly I am reminded of the smell of autumn leaves, as if I am kicking my way through them, or rakeing them up, dry, crispy leaves, crackling, underneath earthy moist mossy smells are also being exposed. I THINK I like it a little more. In fact this is my favorite moment in my Afternoon with a Faun.

Photo Stolen Pixabay

Spicy, sparkly and fresh it continues. Playful and tart. Despite all the spice I’m not reminded of any foods so to speak. There’s no gourmand. I don’t like it much on my skin, and I cannot imagine nuzzling up to someone with it on either. It’s old fashioned, almost old mannish…slightly dated, and synthetic. I’m struggling, but slightly enchanted to make it through to the end.

I have a headache. I can smell it all day on the other side of the room. I am sensitive to one of its ingredients, but which one??

There’s something sweet, maybe fruity I’m thinking berries and brambles, but again none in particular. Maybe some frankincense, but not the smoking variety, and some cinnamon-sweetness. I think the Faun must be trotting about on a warm sunny autumn day. Kicking up earth, herbal roots, moss, moss and more moss…berries…herbal…and peeing in delight. Something does sparkle..maybe more of a sprinkle? Perhaps the ballerina has an old injury and is wearing a STRONG herbal liniment…a Thai healing balm smell. Could be cinnamon, possibly medicinal Myrrh. Immortelle is also commonly found in liniments, so maybe why I make this connection.

Photo Stolen Flickr

Further reading: Australian Perfume Junkies and Chemist In A Bottle
LuckyScent has $149/100ml
Etat Libre d’Orange has €110/100ml (Delivers to the world)
Surrender To Chance starts at $4.50/ml

Dry. Green. Twisted green. I like the green. I’ve read one reviewer who thinks the green smells of celery. I know what they mean, and yet I don’t agree. Instead, I am picturing the dark green suede platform clogs my kindergarten teacher used to wear. Weird, but interesting. The drydown is gentler, leathery suede.

Despite busting to wash it off, and pack my decant away in a tightly sealed zip lock bag, far far away, I enjoyed trying Afternoon with a Faun. It’s EXACTLY what it says on the bottle!!

Ainslie Walker

Jasmin et Cigarette by Antoine Maisondieu for Etat Libre d’Orange 2006

January 6, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 9 Comments

Post by Sister Mary Magdelene, Patron Saint of Perfumers

Worshippers rejoice! Another year given us to praise the fragrance!

New Year usually means hot and dry midsummer where I am, and although on the calendar Summer commenced a month ago, this season she drags her feet. I’m delighting in this extended Spring with its long season of jasmine flowering.

The earliest variety is even now providing heady sprays of indolic pinky tipped blooms borne on their vigorous vine. When the flowers first appeared I dipped some briefly in vodka and the result served over sorrel sorbet was a taste of spring garden. Later the Chinese Star variety popped, its dark handsome foliage and pure white flowers providing such pretty visual contrast to complement the quite different fresh citrus blossom fragrance of those blooms. Both these jasmines seem to feature in today’s fragrance.

Let us spray…

Jasmin et Cigarette by Antoine Maisondieu for Etat Libre d’Orange 2006

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Jasmine asbolute, tobacco notes, apricot, tonka beans, curcuma, cedar, amber, musc, hay

When I first smelled Etat Libre d’Orange Jasmin et Cigarette I was startled to have novel nuances of that indolic pink tipped jasmine flower brought front and centre. These smoky stale aspects evident both in the flowers’ natural bouquet and in jasmine absolute became so obvious to me as Antoine Maisondieu accentuates them in this composition. He gave me an “Aha!” moment of observational clarity that was enough to intrigue me with this perfume from the outset.

Ah and a memory came – shameful confession – of my younger self, a mere novice, happened upon in a clandestine moment behind the chapel where the exuberant jasmine vine frothed and tumbled. I had just inhaled the fug exhaled by the flowers commingled with my first (and last) gasp of a gasper. Sister Ignatia’s smile on seeing me was quiet and indulgent. She wisely intoned: “Tread carefully with anything you cannot set down as readily as you have taken it up…” and strolled on.

Photo Stolen Frederick Dennstedt Flickr

Ancient entwined echoes of shame swirling with Jasmin et Cigarette’s initial intoxicating headrush of indolic jasmine fragrance and ashy, smoky cigarette fumes soon dissipate. The fragrance becomes expansive with notes of crushed greenery, fresh tobacco and earthiness, all scents that also arose long ago as I hastily snuffed my illicit cigarette underfoot!

Jasmin et Cigarette might commence slightly left of centre for some, the bitter earthy note of curcuma (turmeric) reading too ashy or metallic. These dimensions soon recede as the earthier side of turmeric emerges, a sweet dust that merges with the anchoring warm cedar whilst the tonka lends hints of honey and hay to the now rather delectable aromas of fresh cured tobacco. Over all this a light citrusy jasmine blossom floats and the fragrance hums thusly quiet and elegant for several hours.

Photo Stolen DeviantArt

Although it seems to wear quite close, I have several times wandered into the delicious light floral breeze of my own sillage. I have worn Jasmin et Cigarette in a range of contexts to numerous yums and no condemnation. After 5 or 6 hours its last whisper fades with the warmth, sweetness and wisdom of a benediction.

Further reading: Now Smell This and Bois de Jasmin
LuckyScent has $80/50ml
Surrender To Chance starts at $4.75/ml

Fragrant blessings,
Sister Mary Magdelene, Patron Saint of Perfumers.

Afternoon Of A Faun by Ralf Schwieger for Etat Libre d’Orange 2012

December 22, 2013 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 3 Comments

Hey Fragrance Fiends,

Having loved the Claude Debussy Prelude to Afternoon of a Faun as a child, it was on one of my Dad’s records and it had some heavy hitters after it but I thought that this was so beautiful and soft by comparison. A gentle, pastoral piece of loveliness. I could imagine the naughty faun watching beautiful languid girls going down through a paddock to the water to bathe, laughing and carefree, the trill of their voices mixing with the gurgle of the river. Anyway enough of that, Etat Libre d’Orange released their fragrance in 2012 with a sister, Dangerous Complicity (which I found a bit meh) but…

Afternoon Of A Faun by Ralf Schwieger for Etat Libre d’Orange 2012

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Bergamot, pepper, cinnamon, incense, immortelle, orris root, myrrh, leather, benzoin, rose, jasmine, oakmoss

Afternoon of a Faun is a totally different and much more enjoyable piece of fragrant art. Unusual, nuanced, enveloping and slightly awkward it is both fun and pretty. The lovely wet pepper and citrus opening that quickly becomes deepened and broadened by the spices and immortelle, it’s cool and elegant iris all underpinned by a sweet darkness that feels both alluring and a little bit wicked. Afternoon of a Faun is not sensual in the bodily scent or skank way but it does have a wonderful frission of notes that keep me sniffing my hand compulsively because i can’t quite believe that it smells like it does. There is a vegetal funkiness, a dankness or earthiness that must be the oakmoss, immortelle and leather combination (or quite possibly something unmentioned in the notes list). Sadly i am too unschooled to really be able to parse this out. Through the heart I am seriously thinking Afternoon Of A Faun is a vetiver fragrance on my skin, not in the notes but it does have that feel and later the spice and rose make definite star turns.

Photo Stolen Wikipedia

Excellent sillage but only moderate projection and a good life at around the 6 hours mark before I lose the ability to smell it completely, Afternoon of a Faun becomes a softly insistent resinous wash in its last couple of hours and I find the ride enjoyable and interesting when I take special note but easy enough to wear as a daily scent too.

Gaia says, “The Afternoon of a Faun” is the name of a French poem written by Stéphane Mallarmé between 1865 and 1867 and published in 1976 (thank you, Wikipedia). Lucasz tells us that it was the 100 year anniversary of original L’après-midi d’un faune ballet choreographed for The Ballets Russes by Vaslav Nijinsky and that the inspiration here are the nymphs and fauns playing together.

Photo Stolen Wikipedia

I don’t know if you ever read E M Forsters short stories but The Story Of A Panic tells the story of young Eustace being changed forever by the attentions of a faun. The whole omnibus is excellent reading but I always loved The Story Of A Panic especially. There is something of the foreboding in ELdO’s Afternoon Of A Faun that we get in the E M Forster story.

Here is Prelude to Afternoon Of A Faun by Claude Debussy, the music and fragrance are a perfectly symmetrical accompaniment.

Further reading: Chemist In A Bottle and The Non-Blonde
LuckyScent has $149/100ml
Etat Libre d’Orange has €110/100ml (Delivers to the world)
Surrender To Chance starts at $4.50/ml

What are your thoughts? Tried it? Wanted to?
Come on and join the conversation, I’d love to read your musings too>
Portia xx

Fils de Dieu du riz et des agrumes by Ralf Schwieger for Etat Libre D’Orange 2012

November 21, 2013 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 5 Comments

Post by Chairman Meow

I like me a good gourmand, and from my many readings about this scent, this was meant to be a good gourmand, so I went about sniffing Fils de Dieu with high hopes. Its billing as the New Skool Shalimar did nothing to lower expectations.

Fils de Dieu du riz et des agrumes

by Ralf Schwieger for Etat Libre D’Orange 2012

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica lists the following accords:
Top: Ginger, coriander, lime, shiso
Heart: Coconut, cardamom, jasmine, cinnamon, rose
Base: Tonka bean, vetiver, musk, amber, leather, castoreum

And indeed the first nanosecond of its performance, with that recognisable dusty vanillic citrus intro, is familiar. But thenceforth Shalimar and Fils de Dieu (FdD) set out on quite different trajectories. Shalimar, animalic and belching plumes of smoky opoponax, flounces off in one direction, loudly crying “dahling!” to all and sundry. FdD, on the other hand, has eased into a pair of Birkenstocks and has gone backpacking around Thailand, and before I could wheeze “for shaaaaaaame”, I died in ecstasy and face planted into a bowl of steaming coconut rice.

Photo Stolen Wikipedia

From first huff to its expiration a lamentably short period later, FdD is an ode to the fluffy cooked grain. Its moniker is quite apt (Son of God, Rice and Citrus). The notes read like an ingredient list for a laksa, yet it remarkably it smells quite restrained, spartan almost, with the muted, powdery qualities of rice being showcased by the other elements. Bemusingly, rice itself not listed above, illustrating yet again what a load of twaddle this notes business is, and how we should all just make of things What We Will. Rather than being overtly tart or astringent, the lime lends a certain buoyancy, with much the same role as lemongrass or kaffir lime leaf in a dish, and with a little imagination I can just detect the soapy zing of coriander leaf/cilantro right at those first few seconds. Tonka is also evident, tinting everything with a little of its caramel hue.

Photo Stolen Alpha Flickr

But all this sounds too gourmand, too literal a take on cooking, which is it most assuredly not. It’s as if Heston Blumenthal has come along with his lab gear, extracted the qi or life force out of south east Asian cuisine and infused the distillate into a perfume for the global citizen. Just to remind you that you are perfumed, and have not just finished a double shift in the kitchen of your local Thai eatery, there is a soupcon of musk and castoreum, endowing the composition with that unctuous, slightly vomitous twang. With time, FdD remains rice-y, but becomes more rosy, and is the sweeter for it.

Further reading: Perfume Shrine and Candy Perfume Boy
Etat Libre d’Orange has €69/50ml with worldwide delivery
LuckyScent has $80/50ml with worldwide delivery
Surrender To Chance starts at $4.75/ml

It is a short ride (on me at least), requiring a top-up spritz or three ere I’d finished writing a paragraph of this review. Ordinarily, I would find this pretty irksome, but in this case I’m content to reapply because it is so terrifically evocative: sweat, gods, ruby-skinned tourists, anarchic markets, decay. It’s witty yet eminently accessible. Consider me a fan.

C M x