Monsieur Eau de Matin by Francis Kurkdjian for Jean Paul Gaultier 2008




Hi there APJ,

What did I wear today to go hang with thousands of people in Prince Alfred Park for the Same Sex Marriage results? JPGs Monsieur Eau de Matin.

Monsieur Eau de Matin by Jean Paul Gaultier 2008

Monsieur Eau de Matin by Francis Kurkdjian


Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Citruses, bergamot
Heart: Spices, petitgrain
Base: Guaiac wood, cedar

A bracing citrus burst opens and a cool green undercurrent is present, like shade on a very warm sunlit morning. It’s pretty, simple and very comfortable to wear. A real spritz and forget scent that pushes no boundaries, creates nothing extraordinary. Fresh citrus with a s;right green and a little swirl of creamy basil.

If you are looking for a masterpiece then you will be bitterly disappointed. Here Mr Kurkdjian has kept a very simple cologne scent that smells excellent but is as joyously lacking in depth and breadth. Two hours maximum and then Monsieur Eau de Matin is pretty much gone, just the merest whiff of wood.

FragranceNet has $35/100ml before coupon

Same Sex Marriage Results

Monsieur Eau de Matin was a perfect foil to the roiling emotions of our morning as the Same Sex Marriage Vote findings were announced. Jin got me out of bed bright and early, we caught bus and train to town where we had breakfast under a mocking image of our last Prime Minister and famous NO advocate, Tony Abbot, marrying himself.

Then we trotted around the corner to the Official Announcement Event in Sydney’s Prince Alfred Park with thousands of others. It was a tense and nervous wait but fortunately we were surrounded by friends. It was wonderful bumping into people from my life since school and all the way up to now. So many familiar faces, old and new. When the numbers were announced, nearly 62% in favour, it was a tearful and elated Jin I got to cuddle. So many of us were completely and utterly overwhelmed with joy.

Today was a big deal in Australia. The people voted nearly 2:1 for Same Sex Marriage. Hopefully we are on the road to real and full equality here in Oz.

Now we await the legislation. Fingers crossed it will be soon.

I hope your day is as full of joy as ours has been.
Portia xx

Maison Francis Kurkdjian Samples GIVEAWAY WINNER





This one was a good one. Thanks to Maison Francis Kurkdjian for sending extras in my pack.
Portia xx

Maison Francis Kurkdjian Samples GIVEAWAY WINNER


This week there will be 1 winner who will receive:
1 x MFK 745 carded manufacturers sample
1 x MFK Oud carded manufacturers sample

P&H Anywhere in the world



Entries Closed Wednesday 26th July 2017 10pm Australian EdsT
Winner was chosen by

Sue Mills

The winners will have till Wednesday 2nd August 2017 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit

Grand Soir by Francis Kurkdjian for Maison Francis Kurkdjian 2016




Hey Hey Lovers Of NEW!

So many people with noses that I revere are raving about Grand Soir. I tried it a couple of times while out shopping and it left me bored to tears and cold. By the note list I should be madly in love with Grand Soir. All those fabulous resins, tonka and amber? I’m not quite sure why it didn’t grab me by the scruff of the neck, shake me around and throw me to the ground with my eyes rolling into my head, panting and palpitating.  Pretty sure that it’s not the fragrances fault so I’m going to give it a home along wearing. I ordered 3ml from Surrender To Chance and I’m ready to go.

Grand Soir by Maison Francis Kurkdjian 2016

Grand Soir by Francis Kurkdjian


Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Spanish labdanum
Heart:Siamese benzoin
Base: Brazilian tonka bean, Amber, Vanilla

So, in the comfort of my home with no other fragrant distractions grand Soir is a beautiful resinous amber. Softly comforting, tree sap sweet and cuddly. Actually the light touch here reminds me of Pierre Guillaume’s work. Toffee, maple syrup, salted caramel icing and peanut brittle are the images and tastes created in my mind & mouth.

Imagine if you took Absolue Pour Le Soir and dialled the animal back from 20 to one. Grand Soir has the same furry yet porcelain smooth feeling. Through the heart the sweetness lessens and Grand Soir becomes drier, more sweet warm summer evening winds.


My thoughts are that Francis Kurkdjian is a bit like Serge Lutens, he makes a rare few challenging and outrageous fragrances and a bunch of more accessible ones. These accessible ones are the bread and butter of his business, have a wide department store appeal but with the niche cachet. It’s a clever business model and it has worked for him, bringing MFK the brand to a place where it’s become one of LVMHs new acquisitions.

So Grand Soir is a beautifully blended amber/resinous scent. Easy to wear, lasts well and smells good. If I didn’t already have a dozen ambers in my collection or if I was newer to the perfumista life I would definitely put down my dollars for a bottle.


Further reading: BLeauG
LuckyScent has $215/70ml
Surrender To Chance have samples from $4.50/0.5ml

Does Grand Soir appeal to you?
Portia x

Lumiere Noire Pour Homme by Francis Kurkdjian for Maison Francis Kurkdjian 2009


Post by Portia


Hello Niche Nerds,

Few perfume creators get as much respect and adoration as Francis Kurkdjian. From his early Le Male for JPG and Elizabeth Arden’s Green Tea, through Elie Saab Le Parfum and Narciso Rodriguez For Her to his own eponymous line we have watched and smelled a man in love with orange blossom create some of the most memorable scents of his time, and some dross but let’s ignore that today. I thought that with LVMH circling to buy the brand that I might look at the few MFK fragrances I have in my collection over the next few weeks. I was happily surprised for Francis Kurkdjian to read that the business is generating 25 million euros per annum, that’s quite a slug of money for what my mind had pegged as a small niche house. I hope LVMH pays through the nose but my advice is to buy what you love ASAP because LVMH is a monster and the whole line will be castrated beyond recognition.

Lumiere Noire Pour Homme by Maison Francis Kurkdjian 2009

Lumiere Noire Pour Homme by Francis Kurkdjian


Maison Francis Kurkdjian gives these featured accords:
Spiced Rose, cumin, cinnamon, patchouli, mugwort herb

My Lumiere Noire Pour Homme is from a decant I bought in a split a year or so ago. Of the 10ml I have used about 2ml in the intervening time, which is pretty normal for something that I really liked but did not go DooLally over. If I had less fragrance choice there would be much more of it gone. Now I think part of the reason that I didn’t go especially crazy over Lumiere Noire Pour Homme is because I don’t seem to get the same ride as everyone else in the blogs professes to have had. My skin throws such a different set of scents that I was wrong footed by the unexpected. So let’s look at how my skin and nose read it and later in the comments you can tell me how it smells for you.


Roses? Chance would be a fine thing. I hardly get any bloody roses. My skin throws radiant patchouli, lightly herbaceous greenery, soft focus clean cumin and resins, balmy smooth, cool and comforting resins that smell like they have a hint of fluffy, old fashioned musks running through them. Maybe even a whisper of white flower washing everything clean. It smells great in an elegant, understated way and lasts forever on my skin but all the dark roses completely pass me by.

Lumiere Noire Pour Homme does smell expensive and though I’m fully fragrant it manages to feel under the radar and I would really like to spray it on one of my friends after a workout to see how it smells on muscleman.


Further reading: Fragrance Daily and Memory of Scent
LuckyScent has $195/75ml
Surrender To Chance has samples from $4/ml

So, have you tried Lumiere Noire Pour Homme? How did it smell for you?
Portia xx





Post by Portia


Hey there APJ,

Thanks to Val for her generosity.
Let’s see who won,
Portia xx




This week we will have 1 winner who will receive:
1 x Carded Manufacturers Sample Grand Soir
1 x Carded Manufacturers Sample Petit Matin
P&H Anywhere in the world


Entries Closed Thursday 29th September 2016 10pm Australian EST
Winners were chosen by

Winner Is amberinblunderland

Hikmat Sher Afridi

The winners will have till Sunday 2nd October 2016 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

Narciso Rodriguez For Her EDP by Christine Nagel + Francis Kurkdjian for Narciso Rodriguez 2006


Post by Anne-Marie


Curse you Narciso Rodriguez! Why are your fragrances packaged and named alike? Brand cohesion is one thing, but have you no sympathy for your customers (or their hapless friends who try to buy for them)?

Well, applying my attention to the list on Fragrantica, I realised that the 31 listed NR fragrances are all just variations on just four pillar fragrances: For Her, For Him, Essence, and Narciso.

Got it? You’re welcome.

Today I’m going to cover NR’s second release, Narciso Rodriguez For Her EDP. This is the one with the PINK bottle and the BLACK box.

Narciso Rodriguez For Her EDP 2006

Narciso Rodriguez For Her EDP by Christine Nagel + Francis Kurkdjian


Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: rose, peach
Heart: musk, amber
Base: sandalwood, patchouli

Portia has done a stellar review of the original EDT, but there is a difference in emphasis in the EDP. Intimate and sensual, both are musky florals with very clean (fractionated) patchouli and amber. On me the sillage and longevity of both are just moderate.

However, I remember the EDT (I’ve sold my bottle) as sharper and drier – more masculine perhaps – than the EDP. What distinguishes the EDP for me is a prominent note of peach, juicy but not too sweet. This is what I hoped Lancome’s Tresor would be like if it did not collapse into a sickly sweet, artificial mess on me.

Narciso Rodriguez – Fall 2016 – NYFW

However, not everyone seems to particularly notice the peach in NR For Her EDP. The fascination with Narciso Rodriguez fragrances is that there are wide variations in how people perceive them. You might love the EDP but utterly disagree with my take on it.

While musk is the common accord in both concentrations of Narciso Rodriguez For Her, people nevertheless react differently to other notes and accords. They will detect more or less rose, more or less amber, more or less citrus, more or less orange blossom (I get none), and so on. Musk anosmia means that some people can hardly smell them at all.
For years I eked out a large decant of the EDP. Mostly I wore it when travelling for work. Its casual but professional style was perfect for meetings, but even better was to save it for the evenings when I was in the hotel and at could at last take a shower and relax. Any parent of young children will understand the heaven of being alone in a hotel room with the bathroom, room service and the TV remote entirely at your command. NR For Her EDP easily complements moments of simple enjoyment such as this.

Narciso Rodriguez for Her Eau de Parfum Hotel PixabayPixabay

Further reading: Perfume Shrine and Perfume Posse
FragranceNet has $78/50ml before Coupon
My Perfume Samples has from $2.50/ml to $7.50/5ml

I’m now the possessor of a partial bottle of the EDP, and very happy I am too.

How about you? How do you go navigating the Narciso Rodriguez line? What are your ‘simple pleasures’ perfumes?



N.B.: If you click and buy from the My Perfume Samples link I get a kickback

Le Male by Francis Kurkdjian for Jean Paul Gaultier 1995


Post by Portia


Hi there Fumies.

I have been wearing this gem since it was launched. At the time I was living in England and a couple of my mates were models for JPG at the time. They were pierced and tattooed like crazy with shaven heads and killer bodies. It was this use of street kids in his parades that added an extra dimension of reality to everything he created. I was mainly an owner of his Gaultier Junior stuff, basically the diffusion line but I was ever so proud to be a billboard for this crazy designer that seemed to have grabbed the zeitgeist. I had some lovely navy blue leggings with a fabulous sewn patch and a maroon and white crop top. Of his pret-a-porter line I had only a cow print skivvy made of the softest and warmest mohair, I loved it so much and wore it till a couple of years ago I passed it onto a girlfriend who wears it infinitely more fabulously than I do.

Le Male by Jean Paul Gaultier 1995

Le Male by Francis Kurkdjian

Le Male Jean Paul Gaultier FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Mint, lavender, cardamom, artemesia, bergamot
Heart: Cinnamon, cumin/caraway (depending where you read), orange blossom
Base: Vanilla, tonka bean, sandalwood, amber, cedarwood

My experience of Le Male is not like any other fragrance in my cupboards. I refuse to parse the notes and enjoy the experience from beginning to end. The bright, sparkling opening through the sweet heart and the warm resinous dry down. It is a scent of its own and nothing on earth comes close. Francis Kurkdjian’s first blockbuster and he continues to make flanker after flanker, still I am drawn to the original.

Le Male Jean Paul Gaultier Photo by Jean-Baptiste Mondino TheCoincidentalDandy FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

These are scents that tell the story of my life. There were years where I would follow handsome men around clubs smelling their hefty Le Male sillage. One of these men even became my partner for a year or so and every time he spritzed I would be madly, truly and deeply in love with his aroma. It was the wildest sex of my life too, completely and utterly uninhibited. This is the scent I would wear for drag work on and off for years and always felt it was an interesting dichotomy how beautifully the scent fits being in drag and its name.

Nowadays Le Male gets less wear than it did. My scent wardrobe is so full of choice yet I do come back maybe ten times a year and wear it for two days straight. I am at the end of this current two days and Le Male will now go back into the cupboard till next time.

Le Male Jean Paul Gaultier Suzanne_Valadon WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

Further reading: Now Smell This and EauMG
Parfum1 has $48/75ml
My Perfume Samples has $2/ml to $7/5ml

What is your Le Male story?
Portia xx

A La Rose by Maison Francis Kurkdjian 2014

Cooee APJers,

I ordered this decant a while ago and then must have put it in the samples box I just rediscovered. HOORAY that I found it. Does this ever happen to you? Decants lost among the most enormous number of other samples/decants? One day I will take the time to really organise my shit, till then surprise finds will be a part of my life…..

A La Rose by Maison Francis Kurkdjian 2014

A La Rose Maison Francis Kurkdjian FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, orange, lemon
Heart: Turkish red rose, Damask rose, violets
Base: Cedar

Maison Francis Kurkdjian gives these featured accords in one line:
Damascena Rose from Bulgaria – Bergamot from Calabria – Orange from California – Violet – Magnolia blossom – Cedar wood – Musk – Centifolia Rose from Grasse

Before we talk fragrance can I just put it out there that I think Francis Kurkdjian looks like a very nice man. There is something engaging about him, every time I see a photo or video my mind thinks that he would be a lovely friend to have. Do any of you think the same?

So on to A La Rose. I like the sweet citrus, slightly pithy opening. There are no white flowers mentioned but I get a distinct hint, maybe the magnolia? Magnolia kind of fits, especially with the citrus; and musk, white musk, lashings in the opening or is it some resin that’s making my mouth go quietly fuzzy. A La Rose wears more as a wash than a fragrance on me. Subtle, airy, loads of space between the notes. Free and clean, it’s like Francis Kurkdjian has captured a spring breeze in a rose garden, or standing among the roses at the end of the row of a citrus orchard.

A La Rose by Maison Francis Kurkdjian rose Public Domain ImagesPhoto P.D.I.

When we get to the roses they are sheer, luxe and sadly for me a bit boring. To be fair though I can see this being exactly how many people would want to smell. It’s a lovely soft focus rose with a lightly citrus fizz and a small crackle of green behind it all. It does smell expensive and gives a very rich feel but if this was the kind of scent I was hoping to wear I would probably choose the MUCH cheaper, louder and less nuanced brashness of 1977s Tea Rose by Perfumer`s Workshop.

A La Rose hums along nicely for a while and very slightly woodies up before fading from my skin completely. Really I think that my skin has not married well with this particular scent and I urge you to try it yourself, you wear will hopefully be completely different. What a shame.

A La Rose by Maison Francis Kurkdjian rose JamesDeMeres PixabayPhoto Stolen Pixabay

Further reading: Now Smell This and Candy Perfume Boy
LuckyScent has $245/70ml
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $5.25/.5ml

Have you tried A La Rose? What are your impressions?
Portia xx

Tihota by Francis Kurkdjian for Indult 2006


Post by Val the Cookie Queen


Fragrant Salutations APJ

I picked up 140 kilos of chocolate on Monday morning. The beginning of a batshit crazy week. As many of you know, or will have gathered, I make cookies for living. Sounds cool huh? Indeed it has opened many doors and I am thankful. I have been supplying a chain of groovy, funky restaurants for the last four years. There are stores in Cologne, Munich, Salzburg and Innsbruck. I work in a kitchen too small to swing a cat in, located at the back of our bike shop. Glamorous does not spring to mind. The company has ventured into the coffee shop business and asked me if I would like to make the cakes and muffins for them. Starting with one store, a second coming along sometime over the next six weeks or so, and a third at the end of the summer. I thought it over for a couple of weeks and decided to give it a go. It all sounds so exciting on Facebook, or when talking to people. I seriously think it might kill me.

I am sat here banging this out after the opening of the store in Innsbruck yesterday evening. I am determined to have this post went to Portia before deadline. That is one of my new goals. (In-between having my head stuck in the oven, I will NOT be late any more!) I just got back from delivering 4 cakes and 50 muffins and you know what? I am really scared that I cannot do it. I think I have bitten off more than I can chew. Don´t tell anyone. I shall see how it goes over the next few weeks and if I can’t do it without having to check into a loony bin for a break then I shall go back to just doing their cookies.

Tihota by Francis Kurkdjian for Indult 2006

Deadlines, Muffins and the Fabled Tihota – a Sweet Giveaway

Tihota Indult FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Vanilla, musk

Whatever! Let’s celebrate by sharing some of the fabled Tihota from Indult. What could be more appropriate in a “baking post” than vanilla huh? I love vanilla. Indeed I work with three different types, Mexican, Madagascar Bourbon, and Tahitian. The Tahitian vanilla is extremely expensive, has a wonderful cherry aroma, and I use it sparingly. Indult´s Tihota uses Tahitian vanilla. Tahitian vanilla is truly the most fragrant of all vanillas, a fruity floral vanilla. Tihota means “sugar” in Polynesian, so between sugar and vanilla you nearly have a cake. Tihota is a proper vanilla scent. A vanilla perfume for vanilla freaks. It has a heavy sillage and despite being sweet and musky, it is quite adult. It is very rich and caramelly. If you don’t care to wear your vanilla this won’t change your mind, and you will have to enjoy vanilla in your baked goods. I cannot imagine there is anyone out there who doesn´t like vanilla in one way or another. Is there? Tihota has epic lasting power. Notes seem to be musk and vanilla although I have seen tonka bean mentioned. (Musk is funny stuff though. I get it more in the cooler months in Tihota.)

Tihota Indult Val Vanilla StashPhoto Donated Val

Tihota reached cult status over the years, especially when it was discontinued. Fortunately though, the Indult collection is now under new ownership and the fragrances are once more available. They are presented under their original formulations, as created by Francis Kurkdjian.

Further reading: Australian Perfume Junkies and Olfactoria’s Travels
First In Fragrance has €160/50ml
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $6/.5ml

Fancy trying Tihota? How do you take your vanilla? Inhaling or eating?

24 hours ’til deadline. I did it!!!

Exhausted Bussis

giveaway TheTruthAboutMummyPhoto Stolen TheTruthAboutMummy



This week we will have 4 winners who will receive:
1 x decant from Val’s Tihota bottle
P&H Anywhere in the world


Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me (portia underscore turbo @ yahoo dot com dot au) so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

You must tell me how you follow APJ


Please tell us a favorite vanilla fragrance or food


Entries Close Friday 15th May 2015 10pm Australian EST and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winners will be chosen by
The winners will have till Tuesday 19th May 2015 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

Absolue Pour Le Soir by Maison Francis Kurkdjian 2010


Post by Erica Golding


Hi! Today, I would like to share my love for an intensely sexy work of art that has been getting a lot of steady attention.

Absolue Pour Le Soir by Maison Francis Kurkdjian 2010

Absolue Pour le Soir Maison Francis Kurkdjian FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Maison Francis Kurkdjian lists the following accords on its website:
Benzoin from Siam, Bulgarian and Iranian rose, honey, incense absolute, ylang ylang, cumin, Atlas cedar and sandalwood

The first time I sniffed Absolue Pour Le Soir by Maison Francis Kurkdjian (affectionately dubbed “MFK APLS” in fragrance circles), I was popping open a sample vial gifted to me from a precious new friend. She had tucked it into a packet labeled “Favorites,” and that was the only sales pitch I needed. However, when I opened the vial and sensed the first waft of fragrance, all I could think was that it was too much for me – too intense, too animalic, too concentrated. A few days later, upon reading glowing praise in a review, I decided to try the Cologne Pour Le Soir sample that she had also included in the same packet. The simpler composition and cologne dilution of this fragrance allowed me to experience the key notes without being overwhelmed, and unlocked my heart. Passionately, I enjoyed the cologne’s thickly rich dark honey, incense with musky resins, and amber’s benzoin woody-vanillic swirl. I thought to myself, if the cologne was so magical on my skin, then I should give the Absolue a chance.

Absolue Pour le Soir Maison Francis Kurkdjian Tigress Jon Connell FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

The next night, I graced my skin with one drop from the wand-capped vial of Absolue Pour Le Soir. It blossomed into an incredibly deep, powdery honey, a viscous scent with accents of warm precious woods and spices, and a haze of resinous incense drifting lazily. It’s the honey that made me purr, it’s truly sensual – erotic, honestly. There was a hint of rose in the opening that made me think of rose petals floating in a bathtub, a luxurious excess that yields simple, pure delight.

As I have been getting to know APLS more intimately and being more courageous with the volume I apply, I have fallen completely in love, sailing past infatuation and into blind devotion. It’s not for everyone, proceed with caution – the intensity and unrepentant sexuality of this perfume can be challenging, especially if you aren’t prepared for it or dive in too deep, too fast. However, for those of us who have synchronized our souls to this extraordinary aroma, it can bring us to tears.

Absolue Pour le Soir Maison Francis Kurkdjian honey-bees debcbalsucci PixabayPhoto Stolen Pixabay

In my opinion, this is primarily an evening fragrance, although I’m sure true lovers rock this at any hour of the day. The fragrance is concentrated, and lasts a long time on the skin with impressive throw. A little goes a long way, no need to slather and Sex Panther everyone in your wake! Wear this when your focus of the night is romance, and wear it with pride and confidence.

Absolue Pour le Soir Maison Francis Kurkdjian Mariisa Harley Davidson Nicole Zheng FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

Further reading: Candy Perfume Boy and Australian Perfume Junkies
LuckyScent has $185/70ml
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $4/.5ml

I’d love to hear your thoughts on this perfume, as I am aware it can be a love-it-or-hate-it fragrance! Are you brave enough to try a drop on your skin?
Warmly fragrant hugs,