Eau des Merveilles by Ralf Schwieger and Nathalie Feisthauer for Hermès 2004

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Post by ElizaD

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Holiday Greetings from the Emerald Valley! Here in Eugene, Oregon we have had the most extraordinary weather: it was sunny and bracingly cold, and then it started to snow. Snow in this valley is rare. When the weather gets like this, I always turn to one perfume, which I am wearing today. In fact, it will probably remain my scent of choice through Christmas. And here’s why.

Eau des Merveilles by Hermès 2004

Ralf Schwieger and Nathalie Feisthauer

Eau des Merveilles Hermes FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Orange, lemon, elemi
Heart: Amber, pink pepper, violet, pepper
Base: Fir, oakmoss, cedar, vetiver

Eau des Merveilles reminds me of fir trees, rum toddies and those chocolate oranges you can only find around here during the holidays. You know the kind–their yumminess is enjoyed by smacking the foil package against a table and eating the “sections”. The tradition in our family is to receive one in our stocking from “Santa”, and to enjoy it a bit at a time.

 SONY DSCPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

Eau des Merveilles opens with that amazing squirt of orange, which never fades throughout the wearing, it just gets warmer and saltier, like the smell of someone who has just come inside after playing outside in the cold. After a half hour or so, the wood notes start to appear, and while I often find wood notes to be screeching, they are again softened, this time by the oakmoss. To me the vetiver and violet are barely detectable, but perhaps they are what also give Eau des Merveilles its saltiness. I am just beginning to learn how different notes play off each other to make another completely different smell. There has been some discussion about whether this fragrance contains ambergris, a waxy substance produced inside of sperm whales as a response to irritants in their digestive tract, and as precious as pearls, but since I have never smelled ambergris, I couldn’t say. With or without it, I love this perfume for its veritable lack of flowers: the salt highlights the sweetness of the other notes the way a few grains sprinkled on an orange bring out its juicy sparkle.

Eau des Merveilles Hermes Snowy_Mountains WikiMediaPhoto Stolen WikiMedia

The whole package conspires to transport me into the snowy mountains, where I have spent many happy hours cross country skiing through the glistening snow amongst the same evergreens that are used in this perfume.

Eau des Merveilles has decent sillage and longevity and fades away to soft woods and amber after a few hours. I find that this scent is best enjoyed when I wear it on the back of my neck or behind my knees–I am able to wear many fragrances this way, even though I work in a public office where strong fragrances are not always welcomed. And until the weather warms and it starts to rain and the holiday festivities are over, I’ll be sprinkled with drops of marvelous water.

 

Eau des Merveilles Hermes Alex FlickrPhoto Stolen Alex  Flickr

Further reading: Olfactoria’s Travels and The Non-Blonde
Beauty Encounter has $20/15ml
My Perfume Samples start at $3/ml

Have you tried and did you like Eau des Merveilles or is it something that doesn’t interest you?

ElizaD xx

Inside Hermès petit h – Episode n°3 + n°4 + n°5 – Mini Movies

Hey APJ Crew,

I have a whole bunch of the Hermès fragrances and adore their whole aesthetic, I only own one scarf but I love it and plan to own another soon enough.

Here is the second in a fun series from Hermès. Here’s the link if you would like to see the first Inside Hermès petit h – Episode n°1 & n°2.  I hope you enjoy them as much as I have,

Love,
Portia xx

Hermes-Logo Hermès MadisonMusePhoto Stolen MadisonMuse

Inside Hermès petit h – Episode n°3 – Mini Movie

Inside Hermès petit h – Episode n°4 – Mini Movie

Inside Hermès petit h – Episode n°5 – Mini Movie

Hermes Box FlickrPhoto Stolen Maegan Tintari Flickr

Inside Hermès petit h – Episode n°1 + n°2 – Mini Movie

Hey APJ Crew,

You all probably know how much I love Hermès, everything about the brand speaks to me and aqlso I have a lovely friend/SA who works in the Sydney store. Jean is the most elegant, friendly and knowledgeable of the SAs in Sydney, always smiling and can’t wait to show us the newest in everything.

Here is the first in a fun series from Hermès that I’ll be showing over the next few weeks. I hope you enjoy them as much as I have,

Love,
Portia xx

Hermes-Logo Hermès MadisonMusePhoto Stolen MadisonMuse

Inside Hermès petit h – Trailer – Mini Movie

Inside Hermès petit h – Episode n°1 – Mini Movie

Inside Hermès petit h – Episode n°2 – Mini Movie

Hermes Box FlickrPhoto Stolen Maegan Tintari  Flickr

Hermès Maxi-Twilly Mini Movie

Heya Hermès fans,

As we have discussed before, I love Hermès! It is a brand that I have always followed since Mum had some Caleche in her fragrant armory at some point in our childhood. Many of her friends had scarves and bags but for some reason Mum wasn’t interested in their other offerings, though both Dad and I were given Hermès ties. My memory tells me she did have an Hermès scarf ring but I could be making that up.

Maxi-Twilly #1

If Mum were alive today I would be banging down the door of Hermès THIS MORNING after seeing this video. I think this is the PERFECT Hermès idea, so versatile, wearable, fun and elegant. This is definitely what the cool kids will be wearing this year.

In Australia a printed silk Hermès Maxi-Twilly, 220x20cm will set you back AU$395.00.
In the UK a printed silk Hermès Maxi-Twilly, 220x20cm is £205.
In the USA a printed silk Hermès Maxi-Twilly, 87” x 8” is $290.

Maxi-Twilly #2

I hope you like this super fun ad/movie. I think Hermès has hit the nqail on the head again,
Loads of love,
Portia xx

Photos Stolen from the Hermès Australia site

Vetiver Tonka by Jean Claude Ellena for Hermès 2004

Hello Fellow Fumies,

I don’t know what’s going on lately but it looks like vetiver has overtaken my big white flowers as favourite note. This was unintentional, surprising and I hope it doesn’t mean my love for the BWF is dying. Also, I’ve been doing some reading, always a dangerous course for the half educated like myself, and it turns out that vetiver is becoming the plant de jour around the world for a number of things other than perfume. There are 2 types of non invasive, clumping vetiver that are being used world wide for their ability to leech the toxins from soil and water, they are also excellent for stabilising erosion, holding banks/mountains in place and creating sea walls. This is only the tip of the iceberg I feel and will be interested to see it used in the future for self-sufficient-household sanitation and water cleansing.

Hermessence Vetiver Tonka by Hermès 2004

Vetiver Tonka Hermes FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Vetiver, tonka bean, lily of the valley, tobacco, caramel, praline, sandalwood, hazelnut

The caramel/resinous/LOTV open is joyous all by itself. So full throated and filled with call, like a siren or water bird floating across the brackish water of river and sea land junction. The foody stuff all combines with the tonka to create a wonderful sweet amber or crispy toffee scent that makes me want some salted caramel ice cream and honeycomb. YUMMY stuff indeed.

Vetiver Tonka Hermes Roots vetiver.orgPhoto Stolen vetiver.org

The fragrance then takes a decidedly vetiver turn on my skin, giving me a gorgeous earthy, salty, green smell like sitting on a dock above or the verandah near mudflats at low tide, it must be cooler months because there is a smoky waft carrying across to you from someones fireplace, or maybe it’s a summer Bar B Q and the sweetness still lurking is caramelising onions and sausages.

The feeling I get from Vetiver Tonka is a sense of space and freedom. It’s like a holiday, there is time to smell the unfolding of the story, the sweet warmth and earthy dankness combine to form a welcoming and pretty adventure that is both warm and very, very cool. Though it is not a sillage monster Vetiver Tonka does waft a trail and if you spray a card and leave the room, when you return it has tinted the air with a very slightly foody sweetness underlaid with a wetland breeze.

Heftier than many of the more recent J C E offerings and lasting power is decidedly longer, around 4-5 hours before I lose it, or the ability to notice it. Lately I have been using the Olympic Orchids Patchouli Lovers Soap and it is adding a very green baseline to Vetiver Tonka that darkens it and adds a couple of hours life to the whole also. The tobacco and LOTV seem to completely bypass my skin, with or without the soap, but I probably just miss them in the seamless mix that is a J C Ellena trademark: a scent story that has the most beautifully gradated transitions.

Vetiver Tonka HermesPhoto Stolen Hermès

Further reading: What Men Should Smell Like and Bois de Jasmin
Hermès does a great set of 4 x 15ml Hermessence of your choice $180
Surrender To Chance has Vetiver Tonka on sale for $4/.5ml

Are you a J C Ellena fan? Have you tried Hermessence Vetiver Tonka or are there favourite Vetiver or Tonka frags that you’s like to share with us? We’d love to read your thoughts.

See you tomorrow
Portia xx

APJ Day Out #1: Hermes, Robert Piguet, Tom Ford, DIOR: Photo Essay

Hey there APJ!

Last Wednesday we had our first APJ Day Out. There were 13 of us, normally an unlucky number, but it turned out to be super lucky. We were treated extremely well by all the stores we went to, were given two amazing Masterclasses and loads of samples. It was great to meet some of you for the first time and an excellent opportunity for those of us who are already buddies to catch up, talk fragrance, shop, laugh and generally enjoy each others company. FABULOUS!

As we arrived a little early for our masterclass with Joe Garces, the CEO of Robert Piguet, I thought it would be a great time to pop across to Hermes, where the wonderful Jean was our hostess. She happily took us through some of my favourite scents in the Jean Claude Ellena Hermessence range and also some more of the Hermes fragrance catalogue including the Jardin range and then introduced me to one of their scents that I had never spent any time with, Rouge. WOW!! I can definitely see a full bottle in my very near future. Thank you Jean. XXX

Off to Libertine Parfumerie stand in David Jones Sydney City Store basement to meet Nick, the sexy proprietor, Gary and Dan, the regular SAs and a new boy whose name escapes me, sorry. There too was Joe Garces, and Joe took us through quite a lot of the range. It wasn’t much about notes etc, we were taken through the creation stories of each fragrance, the troubles, the inspiration and the triumphs. It was an illuminating class and I came away better informed about the way perfumes are created in a mass market niche company. Joe has effectively turned a dying dinosaur of a business back into a going concern with his and his teams plans. He is justifiably proud of the company’s achievements and really loves the perfumes he produces and sells, enthusiasm shining from and infectious. I tried a slew of the range that I had thought definitely NOT my style and walked away with a couple of new loves, a bottle of Bois Noir and a special gift roll on of VISA. YAY!! Review coming soon. Everyone was allowed to choose a Piguet fragrance to sample and were given very generous spray samples.

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Joe Garces #1

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Then I took the crew up to the Tom Ford section at DJs. The SA there was so pretty, knowledgeable and helpful showing us some of the range and introducing many of us to Sahara Noir. I had tried it before in LA but it was a completely different experience in the cool of Sydney, I LOVED it here. At the end she finished by offering everyone a sample of their choice!

It was time for a sit and a cuppa, I had a sneaky Banana Bread too. During our time at the cafe Ainslie, who is a perfumer, brought out some of her current mods for us to share, smell, critique and enjoy. It was wonderful talking to someone on the cusp of a business and finding out how her perfumes are created. Fascinating. Soon I will have a story on Ainslie because she is thinking of setting up a trial where you can buy a small set of her mods to try and critique for yourself, providing useful perfumista feedback and giving us a chance to try new stuff very reasonably. HEAVEN.

Through Westfield

Past Gucci

Then it was onwards and upwards to DIOR’s outrageously gorgeousbnew flagship store in Sydney, the first in Australia. We were greeted warmly by the staff and Clayton the Oceania head of PR was there to whisk us upstairs to the shoe parlour where we were treated to a stroll through the 10 available Couturier/Privee fragrances exclesively available in Australia through that store. There was also a beautiful DIOR lady there whose name has slipped from my mind, she was helpful and informative and I apologise for my bad brain. It was a delightful ending to an amazing day. I was happy to add bottles of Oud Ispahan and Oud Leather to my perfume library. At the end we were all given DIOR swag bags with a couple of the fabulous 7.5ml FB replicas each and some beautifully presented literature. Just walking down the street with a DIOR bag is thrilling enough but when you’ve been feted by some of the best luxe companies in the world we were all walking on air. Thank you Clayton and DIOR.

As you can see we had lost some of our people along the way, the last photo are the DIOR Late Stayers. Thanks to everyone who came and who helped us have such an amazingly wonderful and special day.

DIOR Shoes

The DIOR late stayers

I am currently thinking of other great APJ Day Out ideas. There will definitely be another day soon,

Portia xx

Terre d’Hermes by Jean Claude Ellena for Hermes 2006

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Post by Margeaux

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Hi Stinkies! My my how time flies and here we are in June already. As the days got a little cooler, I came to realise that most of my scents are geared towards summer. As I embark further on my fragrant explorations, I’m becoming more adventurous and so I recently purchased a box of samples from My Perfume Samples. A very big box. I can now safely call myself a junkie because that box contained no less than 36 vials of stink. Junkie = Yes!. Problem = No! I’ll be the best smelling boy on the block or I’ll die trying lol

Terre d’Hermes by Hermes 2006

So the first one out of the box in true lucky dip style is Terre d’Hermes by Hermes. Now this is a decant of the EDT, not the parfum, and was created in 2006 by the talented Jean-Claude Ellena.

TerreD'Hermes FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica lists the following featured accords:
Top: Orange, Grapefruit
Heart: Pepper, Pelargonium
Base: Patchouli, Benzoin, Vetiver, Cedar

Looking at the ingredients above, this should be an absolute slam-dunk of a fragrance for me. I love woods, pepper, patchouli and vetiver and can’t wait to give this a go. Doing these reviews I’m practically bathing in the smell so that it invades the space and demands my attention. I can get a little distracted so I’ve found that this is the best way for me.

Spritz, spritz, spritz….. wait for the alcohol to go and then inhale. Mmmm, now that is delicious – full of the citrus fruits that smell clean and sweet but not so sweet as to be sickly. Terre d’Hermes is refreshing, delicious sweetness. I’m not usually a huge fan of orange in particular, or perhaps those fragrances from before that include it just weren’t well made. But here, orange and grapefruit work so well.

Terre d'Hermes woodland wikinutPhoto Stolen wikinut

My nose is still quite naïve and is slowly starting to work properly again after smoking for over 20 years, and these reviews force me to look closer at the ingredients. I had no idea about Pelargonium but read that it’s a type of geranium and commonly used in masculine fragrances to provide a flowery note. Now that I know this, it’s easy to spot it as the middle ingredients lift the curtain on the second act. The pepper doesn’t run wild and to my nose, it’s the pelargonium that does most of the heavy lifting here.

As we hit the final act of this Hermes production, I’m overwhelmed by just how good Terre d’Hermes is. These last notes swirl together like best friends, in a classy joyous embrace that is at once astounding and yet comfortable too. It’s not overtly masculine (one reviewer described this scent as what a lumberjack would likely wear!), and in fact I could see this easily being worn by women that love the notes offered.

Terre d'Hermes Desert wallpaper-sourcePhoto Stolen wallpaper-source

Sillage is fantastic, and many hours later I find that although I can easily smell the Terre d’Hermes that I sprayed onto the back of my hand hours earlier, while I type and as I pause for the next word, I can’t help but draw my hand to my nose for a deeper, full sniff. This is divine and what truly great fragrance should be like.

Further reading: Portia on AustralianPerfumeJunkies and BoisDeJasmin
My Perfume Samples has Terre d’Hermes from $2.50/ml to $7.50/5ml
FrangranceNet offers a 50ml from $67

See you next month.
M xx

Hermes: Jour d’Hermès by Jean-Claude Ellena 2013 Perfume Review and Ad Campaign

Hermes: Jour d’Hermès by Jean-Claude Ellena 2013

JourD'Hermes FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

I wanted to do a review on Jour D’Hermes so I spritzed with abandon down my shirt at Hermes and got a fresh whiff of something lovely but I couldn’t identify it. Then I was captured by our fabulous SA and we talked about the new colourway for the Gloria Petyarre scarf, which in pink, lilac and orange is quite delicious, and a few other bits and pieces. Unfortunately as I left the shop all traces of fragrance had been eaten by my skin. GONE! Had not left a skerrick of anything where once it was. Sadly Jour d’Hermes is an epic fail for me. The ads though are beautiful and elegant, please enjoy them.
Portia xx
Print Media Pics stolen from art8amby

Images via TFS.


Here is the Mini Movie

Voyage d’Hermès by Jean-Claude Ellena 2010 + Hermès S/S ’13 Campaign

I don’t know about you but Hermes is special for me. Even though I’ve only owned a tie and some perfume from them they are, to me, the last word in mass market luxe brands. Nobody else comes close. Even before Jean-Claude Ellena took over the reigns there was some wonderful fragrance coming from within the Hermes camp. At one point Mum had Caleche, a buddy wore 1970 Guy Robert classic Equipage and another swears by their belts. Consider also that by now I am in Venice or Paris and I think I have good reason to introduce to you…

Voyage d’Hermès by Jean-Claude Ellena 2010

Voyage d`Hermes FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Amalfi lemon, spices, cardamom
Heart: Green notes, floral notes, tea
Base: Woodsy notes, Musk

What I smell when I spritz Voyage d’Hermès is a clean, fresh, exhilarating swooosh of cold air. A peaceful, citrus plus spice and green-ness follow in a cool meandering, don’t worry about a thing way. Bracing and refreshing Voyage d’Hermès is a little salty and the tea is an ideal of tea rather than a tea-ish fragrance. Something I find really enjoyable is to huff a big breath out of my mouth into my shirt and then breathe the fragrance and me back in together, the warmth and humanity of my breathe give Voyage d’Hermès a whole different feeling before returning to cool, calm and collected. The citrus turns mildly sweet through the heart and it cuts nicely across the tea and general green. Slowly the composition, which is not based in any reality, becomes less intensely frigid and warms through flowers and musky woods. The journey is gradual and not a large change but subtle and quiet. There is something definitively Ellena about Voyage d’Hermès.

Don’t let me make you think that Voyage d’Hermès won’t leave you fragrant; scent bubble and sillage are excellent and it is surprisingly tenacious, by the time it’s gone I have long stopped looking at the clock 6+ hours usually. An extra spritz an hour after the first will keep it on you even longer.

Voyage d`Hermes luxistPhoto Stolen luxist

Voyage d’Hermès is sold as a unisex scent and I think everyone can rock it. The bottle and fragrance make me think you might like to wear it if clever, interesting and thoughtful design, beauty, Deco modernism or SteamPunk are your thing. Whenever I see the bottle it makes me wish to see a purchaser because I have this notion that we would get along, and anyone who loves this spare, arctic and beguiling fragrance is someone who I would like as a friend.

Further reading BoisDeJasmin and Olfactoria’sTravels
FragranceNet has 35ml refillable $55
MyPerfumeSamples start at $2/ml but I bought $7/5ml

Hermès Spring Summer 2013 Ad Campaign

Yet again stolen from one of my favourite blogs: art8amby

Nathaniel Goldberg photographed Norwegian top catwalker Iselin Steiro at Lake Como for the Spring Summer 2013 campaign of Hermès, replacing Dutch stunner Bette Franke.

I think Hermès has done a splendid campaign this year, what are your thoughts?

See you tomorrow, till then wishing you only good,
Portia xx

Images via TFS

Hermes SS13 Man
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Hermes SS13 Woman