Jean Laporte

Fraîche Passiflore by Jean Laporte for Maître Parfumeur et Gantier 1988

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 4 Comments

Hi there APJ,

I quite like this brand, Maître Parfumeur et Gantier is one of the original niche houses, but I rarely buy the bottles because I find it impossible to say the houses name without mangling it beyond recognition. It’s a shame because they do some really great scents and have been doing stuff that still feels revolutionary since day one. It’s surprising how many of the line still feel bang up to date. Last time I was in Scent Bar in LA they gave me three samples of the Maître Parfumeur et Gantier range on a card to try, I have rediscovered the card in my cleanup this week and found a surprise delight.

Fraîche Passiflore by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier 1988

Fraîche Passiflore by Jean Laporte

Fraiche Passiflore Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Raspberry, Peach, Tagetes
Heart: Jasmine, Passion flower, Pimento
Base: Musk, Mysore sandalwood

Fraiche Passiflora opens with the funnest fruit punch ever.It’s like a crisp cut fruit salad sprinkled lightly with sugar and a little rose water.Without being super sweet, overbearing or outrageous Fraiche Passiflora manages to be radiantly delicious and makes me smile. Oh, and it smells great. I can’t believe that this beauty came out in 1988, it’s like a fun and flirty precursor to Angel and the gourmand craze that followed in its wake. Passionfruit, not flower, seems to be the central theme here, and everything else dances attendance on it well through the heart. It’s so yummy that I can almost feel the pips as I chew with cool refreshing gelato. This is a perfectly gorgeous summer, or memory of summer, scent that will have you smiling along at how freaking fab you smell and wafting delicious sillage behind you that will definitely be turning heads.

fraiche-passiflore--maitre-parfumeur-et-gantier Jelly_tots WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

The heart has a real feeling of soft sugared jubes, like Jelly Tots but bigger. The ones that you put three in your mouth and as you chew they all stick in and around your teeth and then you spend the next hour or so getting lovely sweet reminders of them as they slowly melt. Mum used to always have a small bag of them in her purse because giving us a mouthful of these when our attention or energy was flagging would give us an instant pick up.

fraiche-passiflore--maitre-parfumeur-et-gantier Gisela WikiCommonsPhoto Stolen WikiCommons

If you have someone in your life that likes a joyful fruity fragrance, even if it’s you, then I think Fraiche Passiflora would be an excellent next step into a real quality version of the genre.

LuckyScent has $130/100ml and samples

What is your fruity favourite? Do you have any of the Maître Parfumeur et Gantier range?
Portia xx

Racine by Jean Laporte for Maître Parfumeur et Gantier 1988

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 11 Comments

Heya APJ Crew,

Ever get so swept away by a review that you go hunting for the fragrance immediately? I too am no slouch in the lemming stakes. Here is a happy ending story…

Racine by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier 1988

Racine Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Vetiver, oak moss, while musk, citruses

To give you the complete truth I have been dying to own one of these bottles but the ones I tried were too close to things already in my collection. It’s hard to believe that this fun crew, Maître Parfumeur et Gantier, have been around since the 1980s that is a 4 decade run in a business notorious for its patrons fickleness. Quite an achievement.

Racine Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier citrus group pixabayPhoto Stolen Pixabay

The opening on my skin is a zesty burst or citrussy goodness slightly warmed by what I think must be the musk/vetiver but it reads to my nose like almond. If you are yawning and switching off at the ubiquitous citrus opening you would be missing out on something fun and a little daring, the citrus is mildly effervescent, dry and bitter without any of the household cleaner aspect, whatever they have put with it keeps it playing nice. The citrus stays! Even through the soft, earthy greenness of the vetiver. For a change I get no salt shimmer from this vetiver at all.

Beyond 2 hours Racine goes quiet on me, it hasn’t gone and continues to pump a low level hum through the day with bursts of waft. On Wednesday I wore Racine for cleaning the house. Always a 3-4 hour marathon that stretches to 5 because when I finish each chore I gift myself 10 minutes on the computer with a drink, coffee or tea. Even as I was doing my last chore of the day, steam mopping the tiles, I was getting radiant whiffs of very soft Racine. Do I like it? I LOVE IT!!

Racine Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier Vetiver Aqua Culture vetiver.orgPhoto Vetiver used in Aqua Culture in Brazil Stolen vetiver.org

From The Black Narcissus: Usually in perfumes of this type, the lemon or bergamot in the opening will disappear fairly quickly and be taken over by the usual contemporary architecture of cashmere woods and the like, and this is where Racine is different: rather than the constrained urbanity of Tom Ford Grey Vetiver or Lalique’s Encre Noire and their debonair, besuited attractiveness, Racine, from the Les Caprices du Dandy collection, entwines a predominant, fresh-as-a-vine, sinuous vetiver from the Réunion Isles with a sucked-on-a-lemon, imperious citrus note, combined beautifully with a mauve-hued, satin plum cushion of prune, oakmoss, geranium, and, gently intertwined, a touch of equally dry, deep-octaved patchouli.

Racine Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier citrus bubbles deviantArtPhoto Stolen thebeeskneez DeviantArt

Further reading: The review that had me swooning enough to go get Racine was The Black Narcissus and looking at old & new variants The Non Blonde
FragranceNet has Racine for $99 but with the Coupon DCRT3 it comes down to around $78
The Perfumed Court starts at $3/ml

Do you have any of the Maître Parfumeur et Gantier range? Maybe you’ve spent some Racine time? Don’t you love the bottles?
Till tomorrow,
Portia xxx