Jean-Paul Guerlain

Champs-Élysées by Jean Paul Guerlain 1996

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Hey there Frag Hags,

So much hate for this lovely scent. I have managed to find a couple of other lovers in further reading but the majority don’t like it. Apparently people think it loud, really? I just don’t get loud…..

Champs Elysees by Jean Paul Guerlain 1996

Champs Elysees Guerlain FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Blackcurrant, almond, anise, melon, peach, violet
Heart: Lilac, lily of the valley, hibiscus, almond flower, rose, mimosa, peony
Base: Almond tree, cedar, benzoin, vanilla, sandalwood

I have a story, it’s a little bit embarrassing because I’m worried you are all going to kick me to the perfumista curb. I have Champs-Élysées in EdT, EdP and Parfum strengths and also have the body wash. I love it so much and you can get it at the discounters for NOTHING!! Like, seriously, they almost pay you to take their excess stock off their hands. I bet there are a dedicated few who love and wear Champs-Élysées almost exclusively and they are going to be GUTTED when it dies the death of the unloved scent, discontinuation. My belief is that 10 years after this is axed it will be worth a fortune. That core of lovers will be bereft and RICH.

Champs-Élysées Guerlain Champs-Élysées WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

Today I’m wearing a 2011 Champs-Élysées EdP, it’s the 75ml and while I adore the bottle design, to me it harks back to the art deco era but there is a stupid, ugly whilt plastic shoulder and neck that gives the air of a budget $3 “Smells Like” scent from the dollar shop.

Straight out of the gate I get a watery melon backed up by the soft waxy plastic feel of mimosa, that recedes into the background quite quickly as a sweet milky green-ness flows through. Champs-Élysées is so GIRLY! Soft , fresh, innocent and totally animalic or humanity free. The cleanest of all my Guerlains I can understand why hardcore perfumistas eschew its sheer, even prim and airy charms, there is only floating, no heft or pushiness, just a breeze blowing through that happens to be beautifully scented. The almonds milk stays softly insistent through Champs-Élysées life and is the closest thing to a grounding force that it has. This is what 60% of the celebuscents are trying to be and I can imagine it being a perfect first grown up fragrance for a teen or tween.

Fortunately Guerlain, while keeping Champs-Élysées light and youthful, has done it with such a deft hand that it is ageless, the lilacs and peonies through the heart blend beautifully with the return of mimosa and if you are 16 or 600 years old I think you will be pleased, if this is what you are after. Normally my skin sweetens scents but here I get the almonds all the way through and the woods and vanilla play only supporting roles as an amorphous chorus.

Surprisingly, for something so ethereal and wispy, Champs-Élysées has good longevity and 5-6 hours go by before I lose the scent completely. The sillage is quite mild as is the projection, I think you could wear Champs-Élysées to work as long as the space is not confined or your workplace completely fragrance averse. Really, I don’t get the loud thing, not loud on me at all.

Further reading: Scents Of Self and EauMG
Beauty Encounter has $20/30ml EdT, $55/50ml EdP and $125/30ml Parfum
Surrender To Chance only have $5/.5ml Parfum

Are you a Champs Elysees lover or a hater? Please leave your feelings and a short why in the comments. No judgements made on any answers, either way, as long as you keep it respectful.
Portia xx

The below photo is me standing outside Guerlain 68 Champs-Élysées, Jin and I decided to leave it to the last night we were in Paris February 2013. That afternoon it closed for renovation!! I KNOW!! This photo was the last thing done just before I broke down crying like a little bitch. Poor Jin, he had his hands full. It still makes me sad, thank goodness I have been back to Paris, in fact all going to plan I have just left it for London. From the Sydney Summer of my writing I have everything crossed that this time I will have been able to cross the threshold.

Guerlain CLOSED Champs-Élysées 2013

Sous Le Vent by Jean Paul Guerlain 2005

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Hey Everyone,

While in Paris recently we went to the Guerlain counters in Galleries Lafayette. One of the new fragrances I was introduced to by our gorgeous SA was today’s offering. Not wanting to madly buy at Galleries Lafayette and saving myself for the Guerlain Flagship Store on the Champs Elysees I didn’t grab a bottle of it. We left the Guerlain store till our last evening, thinking it would be the Paris highlight. Sadly, that afternoon they started their renovation and we were unable to go in and purchase. No worries said I, next January I’ll come back and get one…….. DISCONTINUED!!!!! So off to my mate Ruth K, now at least I have 5ml.

Sous Le Vent by Guerlain 2005

Sous Le Vent FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Lavender, tarragon and bergamot
Heart: Green notes, jasmine and carnation
Base: Iris and woodsy notes

Originally created by Jacques Guerlain in 1933, re-orchestrated by Jean Paul Guerlain in 2005 for the renovated flagship Guerlain store on the Champs-Elysees which has been fully renovated again in 2013. The style here was a chypre, named for Cypress the island and its evergreen trees, goats, crisp flowers, fresh sea air and dark mossy, earthy, fruit groves. The 2005 reformulation has taken much of the darkness and depth.

What does this famous fragrance smell like on me?

The opening is green, bright, soapy and citric and as soon as you put it on it smells like a Guerlain, heavenly, rich, beautifully blended and the citrus crescendos over the top of the herbs like a wave that peaks, breaks and then recedes. It’s like the world has disappeared and I am sitting alone on the lovely rock mount, under the tree in the picture below but there’s no salt just fresh, bracing air.

Lone Cypress Tree DanielPaulKleinPhoto Stolen DanielPaulKlein

The heart melds seamlessly and the citrus comes back at quite unexpected times to say hello, as the opening notes say farewell Sous Le Vent quiets and softens. The floral heart is pretty but unremarkable on my skin, actually I think my skin is eating some of it because it smells quite thin, maybe I am anosmic to the notes? I have a lovely floral wash that has nothing discernible. I was hoping for much more of the animal, labdanum and also mossy darkness. I understand that the world has changed and that it’s not possible to use those products anymore, still I am sad.

Please don’t think I do not love Sous Le Vent. I do love it and once I got over the initial surprise I have been able to visit and spend time really enjoying what it is. It still carries an amazingly bright and wonderful opening, though it softens considerably upon repeated wears it’s quiet dignity has impressed me and I think I am getting more of an understanding of the elegance that Sous Le Vent delivers. Perfect scent for glamour occassions but not so rigid it couldn’t be worn as a daytime signature scent. It is pricey at around the $300 mark, if you can get it, but if someone was rich, only wore a few scents and didn’t spend all their money on collecting then I think it makes sense to have a scent that is this perfectly proportioned and while harking back to the old days is still bang up to date.

I have a 10ml decant and that will probably do me till it’s re-released.

Sous Le Vent Cyprus Goats FlickriverPhoto Stolen FlickRiver

Further reading Olfactoria’sTravels and BoisDeJasmin
Sous Le Vent can be bought at very select Guerlain boutiques worldwide, I have not seen it in Australia though.
SurrenderToChance starts at $7/ml

I’m sure Sous Le Vent is old news to you, how did you enjoy the experience? Or if you haven’t tried it, will you?
Till tomorrow, be nice to yourself,
Portia xx

Chamade by Jean-Paul Guerlain 1969

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Gabriella

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Hello fragrance friends. Hope you are well and enjoy today’s post.

Well, like any other perfume obsessive, I’m pretty unfaithful when it comes to scents. Sometimes I’ll wear several a day, let alone dozens in a week. So it’s surprised me that I have been pretty much faithful to one scent for several weeks now:

Chamade by Guerlain 1969

Chamade was created by Jean-Paul Guerlain in 1969, and it was inspired by the Francoise Sagan’s novel “La Chamade” which was later adapted into a movie starring Catherine Deneuve. The word, from French means a drumbeat signifying a retreat from war.

Chamade Guerlain FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords (Ed: different in the blurb and pictures, I’ve melded):
Top: Hyacinth, Turkish rose,  jasmine, bergamot, aldehydes
Heart: Lilac, cloves, jasmine, rose, lily of the valley, iris, galbanum, ylang-ylang, blackcurrant buds,
Base: Sandalwood, vetiver, musk, benzoin, amber, tonka bean, Tolu balsam, Peru balsam

Many others have written of the fragrance so beautifully, that I can’t really add much more to what’s been said already. However, the perfume, as many have noted, feels like a perfume in three separate acts. The first is the bright green, spring-like opening of galbanum and hyacinth at first fresh and then powdery; the second act is all about dewy rose and lilac, underpinned by juicy blackcurrant; the final act is another beast entirely, where the green rosiness segues into smooth and sweet vanilla and amber.

Chamade Guerlain TemptaliaPhoto Stolen Temptalia

I acquired my bottle of Chamade a few months ago, knowing it was hard to find here in Australia and a classic. I initially regretted my purchase and wasn’t entirely sure how I felt about it. Fast forward some time and Chamade is now so perfect to me, I’m actually wondering how I lasted without it as long as I did. The perfume is everything I’d like to think I am and everything I want in the idealized version of myself: sophisticated, elegant, intelligent, beautiful and warm. It is at once a perfect adornment whilst at the same time being innately part of me. For note, I have the EDP version.

Chamade Gown TrendsEvePhoto Stolen TrendsEve

Further reading:Bois de Jasmin and Now Smell This

SurrendertoChance has samples starting at $3/ml

Have you tried Chamade? Have you been more faithful to one fragrance lately? What perfumes are currently in rotation for you?

With much love until next time!
M x

Spiritueuse Double Vanille by Jean-Paul Guerlain for Guerlain 2007

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Hello Happy Huffers,

This is another beauty that has languished unsniffed and unloved since it arrived and now I have a moment it has been getting some serious skin time. Coming from a split I have a wonderful 10ml for a very reasonable price plus postage, it was such a great deal I bought a few of Ruth’s decants at the same time. Thanks Ruth!!

Spiritueuse Double Vanille by Guerlain 2007

Spiritueuse DoubleVanille FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Pink pepper, bergamot, incense
Heart: Ylang-ylang, cedar, bulgarian rose, jasmine
Base: Benzoin, vanilla

From the Guerlain site: “If a colour or fragrance were to be associated with each day, like the planets were in ancient times, sandal wood would be the Sun, saffron would be Jupiter, and without doubt vanilla would be Venus.” Jean-Paul Guerlain

From the outset Spiritueuse Double Vanille by Guerlain hits vanilla loud, it is almost a roll on perfume oil it’s so intense at first, then the bright citrus and dry incense float merrily through to add dappled light and shade simultaneously, and a breathy indolic undertone. As we move into the heart vanilla makes a comeback but this time it’s a softer, more refined and controlled vanilla surrounded by an ethereal bouquet that is present but unreadable except for a bright spicy lemon that could be part of the rose and still a breathy wash over all. The trimmings slowly fade as we head towards dry down and here I get something hot, sweet chocolate milk-ish till all that’s left is caramelised vanilla skin for hours.

HotChocolate thelaurelhedgePhoto Stolen thelaurelhedge

The lifespan can vary dramatically; sitting here at the computer or sleeping I get 7+ hours but when I wear Spiritueuse Double Vanille to work, shopping or cleaning it’s lucky to last 4 hours but spraying fabric gives it extra lifespan.

While not being a huge statement fragrance when wearing Spiritueuse Double Vanille by Guerlain you are decidedly fragrant, sensual, delicious and enticing. Very close or frag-phobic workspaces would find it unsuitable but I think most other pursuits would be good. It’s not strong enough to interfere with cinema patrons or your food but very high summer temps might make it cloying, it has been cooler the last 2 days here in Oz and Spiritueuse Double Vanille by Guerlain has been a perfect evening choice.

CaramelisedApple&ButtermilkCake food.ninemsnPhoto Stolen food-ninemsn

Further reading BoisDeJasmine and Olfactoria’sTravels

Spiritueuse Double Vanille by Guerlain is now part of the regular range and can be found in the biggest department stores worldwide.
I bought 10ml in a split on FacebookFragranceFriends from the amazing Ruth!
ThePerfumedCourt starts at $6.50/ml

Have you tried Spiritueuse Double Vanille? Does Guerlain do it for you as a house? How did you feel about Mr Guerlain, now retired, who caused offense during a TV interview in October 2010. Personally I applaud Guerlain’s taking the reins from him and handing them to Thierry Wasser in such a quick and decisive manner.

I hope this finds you as happy and well as it leaves me,
Till tomorrow,
Portia xx