Dark by Julien Rasquinet for Andrea Maack 2011


Post by Portia


Hiya Frag Heads!

I am surprised constantly that there isn’t more noise online about Andrea Maack and her fragrances. Early on there was some chatter about them being derivative but I’m yet to discover a scent that smells markedly like an Andrea Maack. Of course there are notes that correspond, even accords, but the whole fragrances I find distinctive enough to set them well apart even from their most obvious comparisons. Maacks are sometimes challenging and yet ever so wearable. comfortably weird. Yes, I know I’m in the minority here.

Dark by Andrea Maack 2011

Dark by Julien Rasquinet

Dark Andrea Maack FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Petitgrain, mandarin orange, pink pepper, lemon tree, aldehydes, rose, metallic notes, Granny Smith apple, amber, African orange flower, Virginia cedar

This is a sample that I’ve had for a while and keep getting out, spritzing and putting away.

Dark. Sparkling sweet citrus and cold water in opening. Reminding me of a zinging, sharp, dew spotted early morning at sunrise in very early spring. There is a feeling of briskness and action which quickly morphs into fruity (apple and melon?) rose and a cold metal spoon in your mouth. Or the first sip from an icy cold can of fizzy drink. The fruits become more prominent towards the heart, they are just out of the fridge, and the rose becomes air conditioned. This is a modern metallic radiant rose. The most close resemblance from my memory (not perfect) is modern Eternity Woman by Calvin Klein, yet nothing like it.

Dark Andrea Maack cold drink can gepharts3d pixabayPhoto Stolen Pixabay

After some time Dark gets a Pez/sherbet feeling that makes me smile, especially floating over the metal rose from Mars.Cruising into dry down the rose becomes colder like it’s frozen solid but curiously warmth surrounds it, the amber brings in a hint of warm resins that take us to the end.

I can see how anyone who wants their fragrant ride to be smooth and cohesive with the department store finish would find Dark disjointed and surreal but that’s one of the things that I really enjoy. If wearing fragrance for my own pleasure then Dark is an excellent choice and it’s not so powerful that people around you will be questioning or freaked out, though longevity is nuclear.

Quietly and subversively weird, perfect.

Dark Andrea Maack Frozen Rose Adrian Byrne FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

Further reading: Bonkers About Perfume
LuckyScent has $135/50ml + Samples
Libertine has $185/50ml

Do you have a favourite under rated house? Which one and why?
Portia xx

Cuir Velours by Julien Rasquinet for Naomi Goodsir 2012

Hi Ho All,

Today I am beyond thrilled to be bringing you an Aussie, Naomi Goodsir, who till this point has been known as a milliner and handbagger who does the most extraordinary, hand worked Haute leather that is inventive, interesting, forward fashion. Left almost completely in the dark about this release because it happened at Fragranze 10, in Florence, Italy and I was here in Sydney, I saw a photo of the lovely and amusing deer art on their stand and had read a mini blurb on Basenotes and that was about it. My head said, “Another frag. company, I need to get through some of my samples before I order more.”

Then, something happened. Patty White from the Perfume Posse wrote asking if I’d heard of Naomi Goodsir. Nope! Not even a flicker of recognition in my frag addled brain. Apparently I had overlooked the Hot Ticket Launch of Fragranze, and she is an Aussie made good in the world to boot! Oh The SHAME!! Patty then charged me to find out more, get us some samples and let us experience the new crew everyone is raving about.

Cuir Velours by Julien Rasquinet for Naomi Goodsir

Fragrantica gives these featured accords all in one line:
Suede, tobacco, rum, labdanum, incense, immortelle

OH MY FECKING GODS!!! This smells and makes me feel like I have a billion dollars. As you may know I do love me a leather fragrance and Cuir Velour is so perfectly named, that is exactly what I’m experiencing. The soft luxurious smell of a favourite leather handbag, well worn and loved, and that plush soft gloriously lavish feeling of running your hands over German cotton velour. It is whisper soft, like maribou, and sits so close to the skin that it could be you, the only note that really makes its presence known on my skin as a stand out separate entity, other that the soft plush suede-ish leather, is the immortelle which makes me smell like my skin is this amazing, sexy and sensual fragrance already and I’m wearing a very soft immortelle fragrance. An unusual and interesting idea that I will definitely be telling my friends to wear for initial OMG we are going to have sex dates. This is a scent that would keep me coming back just to smell it again and again and again, to work out if they really smelled this incredible.

Cuir Velours Naomi Goodsir for women and men Photo Stolen Fragrantica

This is a skin scent, it is so soft that you could wear it in any situation even the closest and most fragrance phobic work environments. The people that you let within your most intimate radius will be the only ones to know you smell this divine, everyone else will be oblivious but will all want to get super close because even though they don’t consciously notice your scent you will smell so Ah May Zing and they will all think it’s just you. Another great thing about Cuir Velour is that it seems to work with your scent, enhancing the good stuff, and smells quite different on TSO Jin and I.

This was Naomi Goodsir’s slightly edited response to my email telling her how much I loved Cuir Velours and asking where interested parties can purchase, I am so chuffed she took the time to write back:
Dear Portia,
Great to hear that you like Cuir Velours. It’s a soft suederal oriental leather, that I find a little ‘gourmand’ …. I really enjoy the fleur d’immortelle (absolu) dry down.
The perfume should be available at PEONY MELBOURNE  hopefully by the end of next week. For now that is the only boutique we have in Australia. We are currently working on a website where you can buy on-line and the perfume will be available soon in the USA (on-line as well).
Kindest regards,

I just love it when an Aussie takes it to the world. Hopefully Patty will be able to get Cuir Velours at SurrenderToChance too, then we’ll all be able to get a nice big decant.

Thanks for dropping by, we are so grateful that you do. Is there anything brand spanking new that we should try here at APJ? Leave us a note in the comments and we’ll hunt it down.
Till tomorrow be good to you and those in your orbit.
Portia xx

All Photos Stolen Naomi Goodsir’s Blog unless otherwise marked