Post by Portia
Hiya Frag Heads!
I am surprised constantly that there isn’t more noise online about Andrea Maack and her fragrances. Early on there was some chatter about them being derivative but I’m yet to discover a scent that smells markedly like an Andrea Maack. Of course there are notes that correspond, even accords, but the whole fragrances I find distinctive enough to set them well apart even from their most obvious comparisons. Maacks are sometimes challenging and yet ever so wearable. comfortably weird. Yes, I know I’m in the minority here.
Dark by Andrea Maack 2011
Dark by Julien Rasquinet
Photo Stolen Fragrantica
Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Petitgrain, mandarin orange, pink pepper, lemon tree, aldehydes, rose, metallic notes, Granny Smith apple, amber, African orange flower, Virginia cedar
This is a sample that I’ve had for a while and keep getting out, spritzing and putting away.
Dark. Sparkling sweet citrus and cold water in opening. Reminding me of a zinging, sharp, dew spotted early morning at sunrise in very early spring. There is a feeling of briskness and action which quickly morphs into fruity (apple and melon?) rose and a cold metal spoon in your mouth. Or the first sip from an icy cold can of fizzy drink. The fruits become more prominent towards the heart, they are just out of the fridge, and the rose becomes air conditioned. This is a modern metallic radiant rose. The most close resemblance from my memory (not perfect) is modern Eternity Woman by Calvin Klein, yet nothing like it.
Photo Stolen Pixabay
After some time Dark gets a Pez/sherbet feeling that makes me smile, especially floating over the metal rose from Mars.Cruising into dry down the rose becomes colder like it’s frozen solid but curiously warmth surrounds it, the amber brings in a hint of warm resins that take us to the end.
I can see how anyone who wants their fragrant ride to be smooth and cohesive with the department store finish would find Dark disjointed and surreal but that’s one of the things that I really enjoy. If wearing fragrance for my own pleasure then Dark is an excellent choice and it’s not so powerful that people around you will be questioning or freaked out, though longevity is nuclear.
Quietly and subversively weird, perfect.
Photo Stolen Flickr
Further reading: Bonkers About Perfume
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6 thoughts on “Dark by Julien Rasquinet for Andrea Maack 2011”
I haven’t tried Dark and I’m not sure it would do it for me but I am curious now. I prefer my roses pink, slightly aquatic (I know!), and photorealistic. The only Andrea Maack I know I’ve tried is Coven, and there’s nothing else quite like it. It’s like outfitting myself with an ancient and magical suit of spiked armor that I dug up in a forest clearing. I think I might wear it today, in fact.
What a sensational explanation of Coven. Perfect choice for today.
It is the most popular of the set for a reason.
I need to look into this collection. Milan.
I think you might like them. They seem so interesting yet wearable for me.
I really admire Julien Rasquinet’s work for Masque Milano and Naomi Goodsir. This sounds very different but equally strange in a subtle way.
Now I want to try Coven!
I’m surprised Coven hasn’t hit your nose yet.
Also, I never noticed that JRs work was across other brands I like.
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