Niche

Slow Fire EdP by Liz Cook for One Seed 2012

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 12 Comments

Hi All You Niche Nerds,

Here is an Australian crew that we have talked about before when we Reviewed Hope EdP and EvieC interviewed perfumer Liz Cook (<<Jumps) and I loved their Courage so much that I have a FB nearing completion. So it was with a great thrill that I read Liz’s email recently telling me there was a new One Seed fragrance coming. WOO HOO! Sweet Fire is One Seed’s latest offering and is aptly named, or really Sweet Woods and Smoke would be even better but clunky. I’ll get to how it smells momentarily but first I’d like to share with you the One Seed philosophy:

Photo Stolen catopartners

we believe

We don’t want to be just another perfume company.
We want to be a seed for change.
We believe that the perfect beauty of nature need not be corrupted by synthetic interference.
And that beauty is defined by knowing who you are, and being able to see beauty around you.
So care more deeply. Share more of yourself. Live inspired. Make a difference.

we create
Our fragrances are always

  • 100% botanical, nothing synthetic
  • Organic-focused and GMO-free
  • Using recyclable and sustainable packaging
  • Superior quality eu de parfum
  • Handcrafted in small, artisan batches
  • Against animal cruelty
  • Australian-made

Whether or not you are interested in such things it’s awesome that a company has taken such a stand and some of the things they are doing like their lovely, simple, recyclable and sustainable packaging, their small artisan batches and being against animal cruelty speak to my own philosophy. The products are beautiful and extremely different to any fragrances you’ll buy in a Department Store, being deeper, broader, more luscious and intriguing. I find myself entranced when I wear them because the ride is so filled with turns and surprises, different every wear yet still wearable in company as a background to your own personality. I would be careful wearing it to Zero Perfume Tolerance workspaces though because you are definitively fragrant when wearing a One Seed masterpiece. I also like that they are not aiming to be anyone but who they are, forging their own path and asking you to believe that you can do the same.

Photo Stolen OneSeed

Notes from One Seed:
Top: Mandarin, Basil, Blood orange
Heart: Black pepper, Ronemary flower, Fenugreek, Cardamom
Base: Cedarwood, Australian sandalwood, Peru balsam, Vanilla

What do I smell when I wear Slow Fire by One Seed on my skin? I love the opening that is a warm citrus fruit freshly torn open with the smell of peel, pith, fruit, zest and I think the vanilla is already lurking around the edges along with the basil. Then it goes herbal but the woods and vanilla are so present it’s not a green but a warm and smoky heart. I expect this to be much more something that it is not and then can’t remember what I expected. With the fenugreek and cardamom I am ready for something a little twisted, shocking or dangerous but Slow Fire is none of these things. It is beautiful and lyrical and ever so slightly human; like a healthy body smells after a day at the beach. There is wood and smoke but not burning or smokey or in any way acrid maybe more like the fire in full blaze. I am wandering lost trying to explain something that is way too lovely to be defined by my puny vocabulary and universe knowledge. This is lovely and out of the ordinary, you will be thrilled you tried it and Slow fire is well within splurge budget.

Photo Stolen Etsy

One Seed site has a sterling sample program 5 x 5ml EdP $70 Slow Fire will be available there soon
Slow Fire EdP by One Seed available at their Etsy Store 50ml/$85
with other frags, candles and samples (8 x 1ml Etsy Sample Set $30 delivered to the WORLD!!)

Thanks for coming and meeting a new Aussie icon. I think One Seed is going to go the distance with their excellent fragrances and their philosophy. Proving to me that the mold is made to be broken, and sometimes should be to surge forward from stagnation. Congratulations Liz Cook, I sincerely love your work,
Have you tried One seed? Do you have a favourite Uber Niche Fragrance Company that I should try? Please share your thoughts in the comments. We love visitors.
See you tomorrow,
Portia xxx

Neela Vermeire Talks To APJ

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 10 Comments

Hi Perfume Family,

You may have heard about Neela Vermeire Creations, if you have been anywhere on the scentbloggosphere then you’ve probably read about their line of fragrances too. If you are a perfumista then chances are you have smelled at least one of the magical fragrances, and maybe own a bottle, decant or sample set. I was lucky enough to win a sample set in a blog competition and have fallen deeply under the spell of these beautiful reminders of my times through India since 2000 with my last long term partner who is part of a hotel family over there. Loving the fragrances so much I wanted to understand the woman who has been the catalyst for their creation, the friendly, driven, intriguing and very pretty Neela Vermeire. Today she talks with us and I am thrilled that she has.

Photo Stolen guerlain.pl

Tell us about young Neela please, where you came from, family, siblings, poignant or helped create who you are moments?
Who am I? I guess I am a result of my life and travels. I am a global villager – restless, hopefully a mindful soul.
I was born in India and most of my family still live in India. I was educated in the eastern part of India in a city called Calcutta. I went to the US for my graduate studies. After completing my masters degree I moved to London, Aberdeen, Paris, London, Paris.
My earliest memories of perfumes were from the various ceremonies that took place in temples, my family who wore some form of perfumes – immediate and extended.  India is in general a phenomenal assault to ones senses – good and bad and ugly.
Family and school trips to various parts of India made me appreciate the vastness and variety of India and Indian culture. The smell of Indian flowers in markets, roadside food stalls – smell of Indian snacks like chaat, puris, parathas, wood stoves, roasted peanuts, tea stalls, fruit stalls – smell of mango ripe and unripe, guava, lychee, jack fruit (very strong smell), musty book stores, wet earth after monsoon, dry earth under the scorching sun, smell of freshly brewed Darjeeling tea, spices etc.

India (like most warm countries) can provide the most amazing natural smells and the most awful smells.

What were you doing before you became a perfumer?
I am a qualified solicitor in the UK, I started working on consulting projects, exhibiting emerging artists and creators in Paris and also doing Perfume Path Tours.

How did you become interested in fragrance?
Since my childhood days in India. Also each move to different countries made me deeply aware of cultural differences and preferences.

What qualifications do you have as a perfumer?
None because I am a creative director or a creator but not a “nose” or technical perfumer.A nose/perfumer must be a qualified and trained person. I worked with Bertrand Duchaufour who is a well known nose for the first India trio.

Photo Stolen theperfumemagazine.com

Who were and are your mentors and inspirations?
Too many to mention. Some other niche perfume creators were and are my mentors.
My inspirations are my life and travels.
Friends and loved ones who enabled me to express with the help of Bertrand the perfumes as a tribute to India.

Who is your favourite perfumer, other than yourself, and why?
As I mentioned before I am a “creator” and not a “nose” or technical perfumer. Many people call themselves “perfumers” when they have “noses” working for them.
Do you mean creators?
Frederic Malle (Creator)
Serge Lutens (Creator)
Guerlain (Perfumer and creator)
Annick Goutal (Perfumer and creator)
Patricia di Nicolai (Perfumer and creator)
IUNX by Olivia Giacobetti (Perfumer and creator)

You know many others who are true creators and not trained perfumers..etc….
There are many other independent niche perfumers .

Synthetic, natural or mixture, why?
“Mixology”
Mixing is good. Mixture is great – one is able to create exceptional creations with mixology.
Naturals can be heavy and aroma chemicals add the playfulness.

What do you have in development that you’d like to share with perfumistas everywhere?
A couple of fragrances – work in progress.

Photo Stolen lfort

Isn’t it nice to get a little insight into the lovely Neela, I hope you have enjoyed it. Please come back tomorrow, we will be looking at one of the Neela Vermeire Creations fragrances in depth,

NeelaVermeireCreations was where I bought my 10ml x 3 frags Discovery Set for only 90 euro delivered anywhere in the world or you can get 2ml x 3 frags Try My India Set only 22 euro delivered!
LuckyScent has 55ml bottles $250

Love to you all and hope for your good health, wealth and happiness,

Portia xx

Champaca by Linda Pilkington for Ormonde Jayne 2002

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 17 Comments

Hey ho Perfume Junkies,

I have a super friend called Undina from Undina’s Looking Glass, (called Undinaba because she is Bloody Amazing) which is one of the frag blogs that I read EVERY installment of. We have sent each other a couple of fragrance care packages and my most recent one arrived just this week, a veritable scent filled goldmine of things long read & heard about, pored over and pondered upon while making hasty “Can I justify/afford this?” calculations in my head.  Ormonde Jayne’s Champaca is just such a one. Even the frickin box looks too posh for me. This stuff is SERIOUSLY GORGEOUS!!

I must now say that having done some looking I’ve been pleasantly surprised by the affordability of the range, well within reasonable splurge range even on a way less than CEO style financial package.

Photo Stolen fragrantica

The internet tells me that the Michelia champaca is closely related to the fragrant magnolia but the flowers are yellow and smaller but their scent stronger. It is native to South and South East Asia and some of China, and has been used for millenia in fragrance.

Fragrantica gives these main accords:
Top: Neroli, pink pepper, bamboo
Heart: Basmati rice, champaca, freesia
Base: Myrrh, musk, green tea

Photo Stolen fragrantica

That fizzy pink pepper and orange blossom opening that is so 21st century is only slightly softened by the dry light bamboo, had we not had a stand of bamboo in the back yard that we played in and around as children I would probably never have noticed its inclusion.

Basmati rice really does come through the champaca and freesia, like it’s buoying them up and they float beautifully above it. There is still a definite orange blossom through the very heart of the fragrance and still there 5 hours into my wear. I was expecting Champaca to become a skin scent much sooner than this, though the musk is making itself known. I think staying close to me rather than skin scent, Champaca doesn’t seem to need to announce itself to the room though for the first couple of hours on returning to a room I could smell I’d been there. My skin gives me no tea, everyone else raves about the green tea, I went and made myself a cup to check but to no avail, my skin drank the tea.

It’s now 8+ hours, we’ve been for dinner, watched a movie at home on TV and I’m finishing up my post, there is now a slightly musky smell but it’s a sweet sweat, the myrrh and still, amazingly, a little of that sexy neroli; but you have to be close enough to….

Photo Stolen OrmondeJayne

Above you can see pictured the ORMONDE JAYNE DISCOVERY SET 12 x 2ml for only 48 pound including postage worldwide!
If you’d rather spring for a bottle prices start at 64 pound for 4 x 10ml Travel Purse Sprays or 80 pound for 50ml EdP at the OrmondeJayne site which is a pretty good deal for such outstanding niche fragrance presented so beautifully.

I love the Olfactoria’sTravels review and BoisDeJasmin always knows the good stuff

Thank you for coming and wandering through my fragrant thoughts, I hope you have enjoyed yourself as much as I did to bring them to you.
Wishing each of you only the good stuff you wish for yourselves,
Till tomorrow,
Portia xx

This is Linda Pilkington chatting about Champaca from her Ormonde Jayne website.

Etro: SUNDAY QUICKSNIFF REVIEWS #12

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 4 Comments

Heya APJ Family,

Click here for more graphics and gifs!

This week I’m doing something slightly different again. I recently received from SurrenderToChance a set of 3 Etro fragrances and I’ve been wanting to get them on the blog and thought that I can try all 3 in Quicksniffs and then do a full review on my favourite at a later date. So that’s what I’ma gonna do for you and give you the usual 3 sentences and a star rating. Follow the jump to find our Rating System Page (<<jump).

ETRO is a crazy fabulous Italian fashion house, check their site here <<JUMP

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

MESSE DE MINUT 1994. COR!!! Citrus explosion, almost like a spicy citrus souffle, sort of cake-ish but with a crackle of pettigrain that keeps the balance from getting too foody, though it is delicious enough to eat my arm. I’m not really a citrus fan, in my mind though my collection calls me a liar, but I really love this and think the Etro crew have done a warm citrus perfect for a sunny autumn, winter or spring day, like today was in Sydney, this felt perfect as it dried down to woods, fresh hewn. S=**** L=**** D=****

SHAAL NUR 1997. After the citrus has burned off I get herbal, spicy and wood. It is great but the flowers don’t appear on my skin in a starring role and Shaal Nur goes straight to an amber, patchouli and woodsy vetiver skin scent that plays so softly it’s almost miss-able that it’s more than me, but I lose the ability to smell it after 5 hours. This definitely has date night potential.  S=*** L=*** D=***

LEMON SORBET 1989. This, as you would expect, is also a burst of citrus, a bitter sweet cloud of cool herbal lemon gelato.  It is a good deal more linear and less cluttered than the other 2 Etros we are looking at today, almost linear but still with an interesting journey. Part of me loves the simplicity here, and it smells really good on me too, but I think it would be a better wear in the warmer months, perfect for you Northern Hemisphere people right now. S=**** L=*** D=***

I bought a pick 3 Etro Gateway Sampler from SurrenderToChance which starts at $7.99

I hope you’re all having a glorious weekend.
Thank you for being part of our APJ family.,
Portia xx

SOIVOHLE by Liz Zorn Interview

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 9 Comments

Hiya Everyone,

Photo Stolen fragrantica

Today I am bringing you artist, photographer, perfumer and genuinely lovely person with biographies in both Who’s Who In America and Who’s Who of American Women; Liz Zorn. Liz Zorn, founder of and perfumer for SOIVOHLE, is an inspiration on many levels. I am always impressed people who can excel in more than one field, it also reminds me that it can be done. One of the things I am loving about writing perfume is that I have been able to interview some astonishing people who are also perfumers. We have previously done a story on SOIVOHLE << hit the jump and find a history and some reviews.

Straight up; I am completely addicted to the SOIVOHLE (pronounced See-Voh) range. It is an acronym Sending Out Inspired Vibrations Of Healthy Loving Energy and their mantra is “Passing on the happiness and good cheer one bottle at a time.” This resonates so strongly with my own beliefs and processes that I was predestined to love the range.

Liz is unafraid to push boundaries and buttons. Some of her fragrances have unsettling notes or bring on inspired memories. Never really challenging but sometimes confronting they are gateways to loveliness, art in a bottle.

1.Can you tell us about young Liz Zorn and some “Who I Am” making moments?
I can’t say that I have had any profound moments, at least none that come to mind. I think I have always been on this path.  I was born in a small southern US town, moved to a big city at the age of ten. Lived in the suburbs and spent my summers at the pool. Very typical American.
2.What were you doing before you became a perfumer?
I was a painter. I am still a painter, just not so active these days.
3.How did you become interested in perfume and becoming a perfumer?
My interest in perfumery goes back to my teens. At the time it was not an option to be a perfumer. As the years went on I took more interest in perfumery and the Olfactory Arts, until I decided one day to put the painting aside to see if I had a true feel for perfumery. It is an ongoing process.
4.How did you get your education as a perfumer?
I am self taught except for a summer when I was 12 years old. A couple of retired teachers opened a New Age shop near my parents home. I would go there everyday and hang out with them. They taught me how to make incense from natural herbs, oils and resins. They also taught me how to make altar oils and the basic blending of essential oils. From there I started collecting oils, and perfumery books.
5.You use both naturals and synthetics, what is your philosophyand what are the selling points of each?
They are all tools, I make no distinction between them. Sometimes I like to work with an all natural palette, sometimes not. I have no interest in the politics or philosophy (if there is such a thing) of perfume. My focus is on the art and how best to bring my vision to life.
6.Soivohle is undergoing some changes currently, what news?
Yes, I am in a sense cleaning house.  Fine tuning my aim.  Like anyone else I get distracted at times. I am upgrading our packaging and cleaning up the look. I do not like clutter, so I try to nip it in the bud.
7.Can you tell us some of the exciting stuff you have in development?
I am working on two new scents, the Tears of Ra and Anubis. Exploring through scent the power of myth.



I wanted to leave you with some of Liz Zorn’s art. I find it moves me in much the same way her fragrances do.

Photo Stolen lizzorn

Photo Stolen Tumbler

Photo Stolen cafleurebon

Tomorrow we look at a few of the luscious fragrances on offer at SOIVOHLE. Do come and sample with us. In case you are wondering, they are currently updating their site with a Grand Re-Opening tomorrow July 24. It promises to be spectacular with the launch of 2 brand new fragrances.

I hope this has found you happy and well. If not, it gets better, promise.

Portia xx

TABAC by La Via del Profumo: Review

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 16 Comments

Hello Stinkophiles,

Photo of Faun by Forest Rogers

I have been wearing sporadically a group of samples bought from the La Via del Profumo range of Scents Of The Soul. When you buy a set of 6 generous, and beautifully mini bottled, 5ml samples you get a special wooden coffret to house them. This simple wooden box sits on my desk at all times and sometimes I open it up just to sniff the air inside, redolent with the magic in the tiny bottles.


Photo stolen Profumo

Today instead of just opening the box though I decided to lavishly spread Tabac upon my skin. It opens up deliciously vanilla and murky green tobacco on my skin, deep and humus rich earthy, maybe the cistus (rock rose) flies above but to me there is a fruity/jammy quality to the higher notes so you have a 2 speed fragrance. The depth and steady boom of the vanilla/tonka/smoking tobacco are played against this light flower/green tobacco/hay/fruity accord, there may even be a boozy side story here just on the edge of smelling. It is quite a ride, you can almost feel the sun on the cut grass, warming and drying it. This is a perfume, hefty, tasty, lusty and delicious; not for the faint hearted or affeared of fragrance. There is no hint of light aquatic, fruity nothing here. As it begins to lose its potency and aims towards dry down Tabac becomes sweeter before it goes dark, like the vanilla has come back to round the whole story out. Scent, longevity and sillage; Tabac by La Via del Profumo seems to have it all for me. When I finish this nearly empty sample it will be FB time.


Photo Stolen Profumo

From the LaViaDelProfumo site

The absolute of tobacco is the theme of this perfume. In the composition the overwhelming aroma of the tobacco is moderated with the spicy and resinous essences traditionally used to scent pipe tobacco…. Vanilla, cistus, tonka etc.
However, it’s interest and success lies in in its effect on the psyche and the vital energy. In perfume therapy, the scent of tobacco absolute confers warmth and well being and strength without overpowering. In effect, tobacco absolute should be taken into consideration for persons who have misused their own forces to the point where they are enervated and depleted of physical and psychic energy.

Please go and visit LaViaDelProfumo where you can find 100% natural perfumes created by extraordinary perfumer Abdes Salam Attar. The sample program is great, I love to try everything so it suits me perfectly. Just so you know, in my coffret I purchased Tabac, Hindu Kush, Sharif, Mecca Balsam, Tartar Leather and African Night, and as a bonus getting a small vial of Oud Caravan No. 3.

Thanks for dropping by, are there any tobacco perfumes that I should smell or that you love? Please leave us a comment so I can go look,
I hope your day is lovely.
If it’s not, things will and do get better, promise,

Portia xx

Portia xx

Anima Dulcis and Fleur de Louis by Arquiste from Carlos Huber

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 14 Comments

Hiya Gang,

I have a special treat for you all today, a hunka-hunka burning love. A few weeks ago I wrote about Aleksandr by Arquiste for Perfume Posse and I thought we could look at a couple of Arquiste’s other fragrances today, the next paragraph is taken from the Posse expose.


Photo Stolen thenateshow

This is Carlos Huber, New York based, four language fluent, Mexican born architect and avant-garde preservationist, who was lucky enough to do his final study with architect and artist Jorge Otero-Pailos at Columbia where he graduated with honors in Historic Preservation, and now works all over the world fusing old and new in such amazingly braggable places as creating Ralph Lauren stores signature look in historically significant sites to restoring old Venetian Palazzos. Not just uber yummy but clearly clever, likeable and driven too.

The idea behind the Arquiste line is to recreate a moment in time with each perfume, much like Parfum d’Empire, but more a snapshot than a movie, a day rather than an era. It is an interesting idea and ties nicely with Carlos architectural work and need to know everything about his historical contexts. Carlos sees himself as a curator rather than perfumer, much like Frederic Malle, and works with perfumers/noses Rodrigo Flores-Roux and Yann Vasnier. He is like a ridiculously gorgeous, buff, manscaped, adorable, nerd or geek. Very endearing. His partner Nate Berkus is a TV design expert (hosting The Nate Show), New York Times best-selling author and regular contributor to The Oprah Show. This is a power couple if ever there was one.

Photo Stolen guestofaguest

I have stolen some of Carlos Huber’s interview with Marni Golden from TheNateShow

Marni Golden: What was that journey like for you – from conception to inception?
CH: To turn an experimental project like this into a full-fledged product is a long, rocky process that requires a lot of fine-tuning. And I call it a ‘product’ with the utmost respect, because the work that goes into a piece of work that you can share, trust and be proud of is huge. I’ve learned a lot and I can’t wait for what comes next.

MG: What makes Arquiste stand out amongst the very competitive and populated fragrance marketplace?
CH: I wanted to share something that has depth, fantasy and authenticity. To connect with the past, with history and to infuse our life with a real dose of poetry. The fragrances are incredible wearable, and modern, but retain a classical thread to them. I believe in them as masterpieces….


Photo Stolen retrovintagemodstyle

The two fragrances I have chosen to write about today are the two that Carlos himself wears most regularly, as day and night scents, according to the Marni Golden interview. If he loves them so much then we should probably investigate too.

ANIMA DULCIS: November 1695 Mexico City, we are to be transported to a nunnery where they make chili chocolate, for centuries. Well these nuns are a horny bunch, ripe, slightly aroused and lactating. This is chocolate but for the dirty bitch in us all. Yes, it starts out all sweet and gourmand but the problem is when you smell good enough to eat, someone will. He he. The main accords we are supposed to be smelling according to the blurb are Cocoa Absolute, Mexican Vanilla, Cinnamon, Chili infusion. They have kept it streamlined and simple on paper but it is anything but. The cocoa is deliciously bitter, almost burned, the vanilla is clean, fleshy and sensual like privates the day after a wax, the cinnamon and chili sizzle and the dry down is hot, healthy, sweaty humanity in a cup cakery. 4-5 hours is a lovely long wear time before it becomes skin scent and stays for a while longer lost to me but smellable by TSO Jin.

FLEUR de LOUIS: June 1660, Isle of Pheasants, Basque region, on the French-Spanish border. This must be meant to represent only Louis XIV’s side of the meeting between himself and his Spanish child bride Maria Theresa because I smell nothing childlike or innocent in this fragrance. The note list here is again brief, Orange Flower, Florentine iris, Jasmine, and White Cedar.  It is a beautiful white glamour floral given depth and dignity by its iris, which is a slightly bitter backnote along with its powdery dryness floating above and through all. The woods are slightly sharp too at the beginning of this story, like they have just been cut green and hastily erected but they soften and warm as the fragrance ages and blends with your chemistry. Fleur de Louis reminds me of something I smelled recently but can’t put a name or place to, it is familiar yet not. I swear there is some kind of citrus going on here, bright and popping in and out. Somewhere after 4 hours I have lost Fleur de Louis but it was a lovely ride, warm and cool all along. I understand why this is Carlos Huber’s day scent, it will fit all moods and (except for the absolutely repulsed by perfume people) would still be a perfectly acceptable office wear fragrance. This is my current favourite of the line so far but I still have 3 to fully review.
PS I wore Fleur de Louis for the whole day today and it lasted beautifully, there are some moments at the 5-6 hour point where I get a distinct powder puff and oil stick foundation from the 60’s that came upon me by surprise, it doesn’t last and just hits peaks, then runs to dry down at about 8 hours. Serious longevity.

Photo of Carlos Huber & Roja Dove from RojaDove

As you can see, even the power people of perfume are getting right behind the newest luxury fragrance line, Arquiste. When I did the Perfume Posse post Carlos sent me a tweet saying he was tickled that we’d written about him. It’s this kind of thoughtfulness that I hope will take the Arquiste line far and wide. Good product, reasonably priced, beautifully presented & packaged and a delicious hubba hubba of a man out the front.

You can purchase these 55ml fragrances direct from Arquiste, Anima Dulcis is $165, Fleur de Louis $175
I ordered a SurrenderToChance sampler pack of all 6 Arquiste fragrances where they start from .5ml for $29

Here’s one more photo of Carlos, just for gratuitous ogling pleasure.

Photo Stolen haroldluxuryformen

Thanks for coming along this lovely fragrant road with me today,
Have you tried the Arquiste range? Do you have a favourite? Maybe there’s another hunky perfumer out there you’d like to see more of?
Drop us a line here at APJ and we’ll see what we can do for you,
Till tomorrow,
Portia xx

Liz Zorn’s SOIVOHLE: reviewing the uber-niche

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 6 Comments

Hi Everyone,

I hope this finds you happy and well but if not, remember; It gets BETTER.
Recently I came across an interesting niche perfume company. I can’t remember where I heard or read the name but I was intrigued. Googling today I couldn’t find anyone in my blog reader list who’d written about SOIVOHLE and now I’m completely flumoxed. When I wrote to Liz Zorn the ranges creator I mentioned Muse In Wooden Shoes but now I can’t find the pithy intro about how they have the best named fragrances of all time, interesting new potions etc etc. If you were the person that put me onto this crew; Thank You! Seriously, I went and purchased smallish sprays of Harbinger and Rose Sur Reuse and am gasping at the contradictions in one and the divine, must wear it again, can a fragrance really smell this good-ness of the other. (So update- I found the piece and if you click Muse In Wooden Shoes you can read it)

SOIVOHLE = Sending Out Inspired Vibrations Of Healthy Loving Energy (pronounced See-Vo)

Liz Zorn the creative genius behind the SOIVOHLE range describes herself and her motivations on the website thus:

“I have always been somewhat of a dreamer, the old saying I suppose, that artists live in their heads. I am no exception, if I were not constantly mulling over ideas about my next project, I might be able to get to that Zen place everyone raves so much about. In the moment, I can do that. For an artist it is the process or being in the creative zone. A place where the intangible becomes tangible. Where ideas (the head stuff) gets worked out in real time. I can not remember a time in my life when I was not on a mission. I am a purpose driven individual. A pragmatist that lives in her head. A practical dreamer.”


Columbine: Liz Zorn 2000 from http://www.lizzorn.com

Liz Zorn comes from a fine arts background, is a poet, painter, photographer, songwriter, is featured in Who’s Who in America and Who’s Who of American Women. As if that’s not enough for one lifetime, now Liz is conquering the fragrance world with delicious, confrontational, sparkling and story filled scents, some of them all four at once.

Liz uses both natural and synthetic ingredients in her fragrances, in many the naturals are alone, in mixed media compositions synthetics are blended with naturals. Currently she is having to add all the IFRA restricted ingredients to her labels so you can make your own choices.

Rose Sur Reuse: Eau de Toilette


Roses are ubiquitous in fragrance, like musk, bergamot, orange blossom and patchouli. Roses are also hard. It is hard for me to like a rose fragrance although when I say that there are a few in my library (No 5, Shalimar, Samsara, Rush, Dreamer, Tresor, Fracas and others) and mostly they are old favourites revisited regularly, but none of these feel like a rose soliflor. I know it’s Rose and Tuberose but for me the rose is way on top throughout the lifespan of Rose Sur Reuse. This is an intoxicating fragrance; warm, boozy and musty it springs to life warming on my skin to a symphonic boom. It is a gentle but pervasive scent. Every now and then as I move a rush of spicy gorgeous bursts from my top and surprises me with its rich and voluptuous tapestry of roses. It’s a changing, never cloying or too rose-ish, fragrance that dances along beside you for around 5 hours when it dries down to a whisper of the orient. This is as FBW as a scent can get. Liz and her crew tried for an all weather rose scent and I think they’ve found it, this was released in 2012 so you’ll be the first person you know with Rose Sur Reuse. To me, a very accessible fragrance that fills a void I never thought I would have. Rose Sur Reuse notes are intense roses and tuberose, black raspberry accord, cinnamon, cloves, violet and a light oriental base.

Harbinger: Mixed Media Demi Absolute (18-22% concentration)


I am surprised that my assessment of Harbinger as a perfume of contradictions is exactly what the website says (moment to huff on nails and buff on jumper) in its opening gambit. Maybe I remembered from buying. This is a grown up scent that I think is currently beyond my ken as a baby perfumista. I don’t particularly like the slightly fetid smell of the sea in this fragrance, it’s a little bit like summer yabbying on the salty mudflats of my childhood in Coal & Candle Creek, is this cumin? The Muse In Wooden Shoes says it smells dirty and sexy but I don’t get it. I think I’m missing a major point though. I cooked with cumin tonight for dinner and it didn’t smell like this in the Tupperware or pan. I will come back to this bottle and try it again in a while. I do love its journey, there is a sweetness and lightness about Harbinger that I enjoy but like its name I feel that there is another scent coming that does not seem to appear on my skin. The notes on the site list cumin, honey absolute, white roses, Saigon cinnamon, ripe peaches, white orchid, roasted coffee beans, caramel, labdanum absolute, radiant musk accord and SOIVOHLE’s own Chypre base. (These notes sound more like Tobacco & Tulle smells, it’s like they were mixed up) Interestingly, Fragrantica doesn’t mention cumin but has caraway instead. This fragrance is tenacious, nearly 12 hours and still powering away in a softer, less invasive way but I am still not loving it.

Tobacco & Tulle: Natural Absolute extract (30-50% concentration)


This is a delicious wonder, it smells like fresh, hot, buttered raisin toast to me; quite close to apple crumble. I can’t believe these notes give such a fruit, yeasty, cinnamon, buttered and toasted, almost a burnt, scent. Warm, cosy and inviting but with some darkness and depth underlying, notes include tobacco absolute, tuberose absolute, earthy natual musk from hyrax tincture and ambergris. This is a showstopper of a fragrance, I used the merest dab from a sample wand and it has filled my senses to overflowing with deliciousness. I probably used too little but Tobacco & Tulle was gone after 4 hours with no traces left. I will try it again soon and edit this post if more juice equals more staying power.

OK update, yes I had too little perfume for my perfume hungry skin. Using more gives me lasting power around 5-6 hours before I lose all sense of it.

Rivertown Road: Absolute Pour Homme


A sample vial of Rivertown Road was my Free Gift with purchase. The spiel says inspired by rivers, river towns and river people. Headstrong, Independant and Proud! It rides the fence between Chypre and Fougere.
It is a warm lusty fragrance that speaks to me of river towns in Vietnam, Thailand and India, especially the Kerala riverboat adventures. It’s almost like the Indian fragrance oils. So many flowers, leaves, twigs and spices all in one place, it is hyper fragrance for fearless adventurers. Bold and bright, Rivertown Road burns an indelible trace across my memory rewriting much that has gone before. The notes on the site read like a roll call of everything ever put into a fragrance
Opening Notes: French Lavender, Dominican Bay, Key Lime, Bergamot
Heart Notes: Dry White Violet, Seville Lavender Absolute, Jasmine Sambac, Green Roses, Saigon Cinnamon, Mimosa Absolute, Tobacco Absolute, Carnation Accord, Foin Coupe (mown hay) Absolute,  Tonka Bean Tincture
Base Notes: Tolu Essence, Animalic Musk, Cedar Wood Oil, Sandalwood, Frankincense, Haitian Vetiver, Beach Ambergris, Liquidambar, Nutmeg Absolute, Oakmoss Accord, Aged Patchouli

You want to try this fabulous crew? Click> SOIVOHLE and it will take you to the Home Page.

Thanks for reading all the way. It was a long one today.

Much love,

Portia xx

PS All pictures from the SOIVOHLE site

OPUS OILS JITTERBUG PERFUME PARLOUR: The Divine Collection Review

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 7 Comments

Hey, Hey Gang,

When work is done and all in our house are asleep, a cup of sweet, milky instant coffee by my side, I love to troll the web at night. I will catch up on the many blogs that I read, follow links like a lemming, discover new fragrance, friends, trends and a world of stuff that would have been totally beyond my reach without the internet. Don’t get me wrong, I love to troll the net during the day too but at night it seems more personal and without the worlds distractions I feel that I can learn stuff.

Recently while trolling I was introduced to a niche perfume crew called Opus Oils Jitterbug Perfume Parlour. They look fun and sassy in their online store and fact sheets; like the coolest kids that you always wanted to be buddies with. There is a sense of loads of fun and in-joking, hours spent laughing while trying new experiments, names, fragrances. They have a great sample program so I decided to buy and try the Divine Collection samples. Their cross links with mysticism and historical spiritualism caught my eye, along with their 100% natural approach.

Picture Grizzli “Gods” Stolen from Wikimedia

What I found with these all natural oils was that they were much more sophisticated than I expected. More nuanced and not huge explosions of fragrance but a delicious waft here and there melting into my skin over hours, becoming a lovelier smelling me, but still discernible as other. These are intimate fragrances that could be worn for everything from meditation to work (unless they are absolutely fragrance phobic), but they also would be excellent dinner, theatre, booty call or Bar B Q scents. Not overwhelming, I don’t think people will find them offensively expansive. Also, being oils they will last ages because a little goes a long way.

Opus Oils Jitterbug Perfume Parlour opened August 2008 in Hollywood, CA, USA after Kendra Hart being a successful underground and above ground perfumer. Here’s a little (edited version) of what the site says:

Kedra Hart was one of the developers of The Apothecary at Barneys New York in Beverly Hils and founder of the natural perfume and aromatherapy line Precious Petals. She designs custom scents, teaches perfumery in LA and Paris and is blender and co-founder with Joshua Hart of Opus Oils Jitterbug Perfume Parlour.

“It’s hard to describe our Jitterbug Perfume Parlour when people ask,” says Joshua Hart, “I usually say it’s a cross between the movie “Beyond the Valley of the Dolls” and the book “Jitterbug Perfume”. Mix that with the TV show “Hart to Hart”, sprinkle it with “Moulin Rouge” and then add a dash of Flapper Speakeasy Culture. Yeah, I think that about says it all.”

The Divine Collection (100% all natural perfume)

These oil blends are made with essential oils and rare perfume oils from around the world. Specially formulated to assist you in making contact the God or Goddess energy that lies within you. Absolutely no synthetics are used in these Natural Perfume blends. Consisting of four aromatic treasures, all formulated with exotic and rare botanical essences, that can be worn alone or in layered combination. Nourishing to the spirit, they offer a positive, uplifting and natural alternative to the majority of mainstream perfumes on the market. 

I tried to capture my first impressions with single words and then give you an unfolding story.

ISIS: Hot, Steamy, Dark citrus, Dusky, Luscious. This was the first of the line I tried. The balmy citric myrrh is the initial scent I get but after about 15 minutes this delicious jasmine comes in and wends its way through. It took me by surprise when I got my first whiff while my mind was on the laundry, I thought someone was behind me wearing it. I nearly jumped out of my skin. Fragrantica gives featured notes as jasmine, myrhh, olibanum and coconut.

PAN: Clean, Sharp,Dank, Enticing earth, Funereal. Wow! This is the edge of the jungle, earth, deep and dark. Evening jungle in the cool season. I smell moss, clay, humus, animal. Aptly named, this is the scent I can imagine all smelling in E. M. Forster’s a Story of a Panic, first released in 1911, when Eustace becomes overwhelmed and shocked from his torpor. It is a sexy and inviting green. Fragrantica says I am smelling patchouli, vetiver, oakmoss, fir and violet leaf.

EROS: Vegetal, Herbs, Grass, Spice, Chilli. This smells to me like a spicy chicken salad with oregano, parsley, balsamic vinegar and lemon juice. It’s a warm and cool fragrance, interesting and thoughtful.  Fragrantica gives me amber, mandarin orange and vetiver as the notes here but it feels much more alive and sparkling than that.

VENUS: Sweet, Balmy, Sexy, Salt, Medicinal. I know. Clearly my nose was elsewhere because the notes in Fragrantica say features rose, lotus, ylang-ylang, neroli, sea water and dark chocolate. I miss the flowers and chocolate completely. Maybe they’ll come along soon but after half an hour I am getting an awesome scent, just not floral or chocolate. This is the one I think is FBW out of the group. On my skin an interesting sweet and salty mixture. Very calm and sensual. This fragrance feels like the siren calling, like Venus herself from the sea to all the mariners. I would follow instinctively.

Thank you all so much for coming and having a squiz.

Do you have a natural perfumer that you love? Tell us about them in the comments. Anything and anyone new we can lock onto is interesting for us,

Portia xx

Samples and Decants, Who, How, Where, Why!

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 7 Comments

Hi All,

Lovely crisp day here in Sydney, Australia. Autumn is closing in upon us and while not believing scents should follow the seasons, today I thought to start with something warming and deep. As a perfumista in waiting, I am still trying to get my nose around many scents and fragrances, still don’t quite understand how each note should be working or permeating a fragrance. Then, on top of that, because so much of fragrance is in fact science, as opposed to nature, the same way to reach a natural scent can be taken by millions of different routes, and is. Meaning that though the notes of a fragrance may say patchouli, it is often the idea of patchouli in its many incarnations rather than patchouli per se (Latin meaning; Of, in or by itself) that you are smelling.

Obviously the kind of knowledge that a blogger like 1000 Fragrances (sadly this blog is now closed) has is gained through a lifetime of study and experience. I am clearly not that person but I would like to have my nose across as many fragrances as possible so that my personal value judgment can have more gravitas. Evie C and I have been talking of doing a course in the near future also (more on that down the track) but until that time I want to smell as many scents as possible.

To do that, we perfumistas and perfumistas in waiting, or junkies, fumeheads, fragrance whores, etc etc often buy, instead of spending all our hard earned cash on a full bottle of everything we like, a smaller sample size (1-5ml), or decant (5-30ml), to test the water and see if we love it. Conversely, we may have sampled something and LOVED it, yet there would not be the chance to wear it more that once or twice a year so could not see the need for buying a full bottle (FB). Or maybe the scent is a reference scent, giving you the best (by popular opinion or your own) of a certain style of fragrance, or a note that you are interested in, by which to judge all others. Maybe you DESPERATELY want this fragrance but are just too poor to own it, there are fragrances out there going for thousands of dollars. I KNOW!! RIGHT!

Sometimes a fragrance IS great, you love it and want it but there are more pressing things on your must have list, maybe the bottle is ugly, dumb, grotesque, could be you like getting things in the mail from all over the world, or perhaps you are just plain old addicted. There is also the problem of discontinued or reformulated scents, you can get some of the most important ones if you go to decant sites but would never get the opportunity otherwise. Maybe you just live too far from New York or Paris and want to smell what others are currently talking about on the scentbloggosphere.

That’s just a few of the reasons. Anyway, my first introduction to the art of buying samples and decants was through The Posh Peasant, Abigail who runs it is friendly and helpful. Even if you can’t find what you’re looking for on her site, ASK HER, she has almost everything and will purchase for you if you promise to do a decent ($40-50) shop of her stuff when she gets it in for you. Fair enough! A new set arrived yesterday!! See below.

There are others that I use too now SurrenderToChance,  Lucky Scent, My Perfume Samples and The Perfume Niche and there are more but these are the guys I use regularly. You can even buy pre organised sets, which is awesome because they’ve done all the sniff work for you. Maybe you’d like to understand the way violets or heliotrope meander through a fragrance, on most of these sites you will find a set of perfume samples that are the best or unusual in their category. Simple? Yes. Do me, and you, a favour though. Don’t order a new set until your original set has arrived and you have smelt every one. Otherwise you’ll end up with HUNDREDS!!! Most of them unsmelt. Money is too hard to make for you to be so profligate. This is one place you should be careful, give yourself a perfume budget, then do your UTMOST to stick to it. The perfume wormhole is an addictive and expensive place to get lost. Fragrance is not like houses, there is no resale value.

Most of the smaller or niche Fragrance Houses now do a Sample Set, Sample Program or some such. I love my sample sets (mostly purchased) from Olfactive Studio, Olympic Orchids Artisan Perfumes, Aftelier Perfumes, SMELLbent, Parfum d’Empire, La Via Del Profumo, LUSH Gorilla Perfumes, Tauer and these are just the ones off the top of my desk currently.

One thing I do find is that perfume does not smell the same dabbed as spritzed. Many times I’ve been totally let down by a fragrance in dab form to be then astounded and dazzled by it when spritzed. I have found a super cheap bottle, plastic bag and mini funnel online store that lets you buy in smaller quantities that 10,000, from about 10 upwards. They do wholesale and retail and accept paypal! AWESOME!! Better still they send to Australia! which so many refuse to do, at very reasonable rates. Proud Style is the crew you’re after. They seem genuinely happy to have my business, a plus. I also use My Perfume Samples because they have a great small order selection of a few sizes for great prices and cheap postage.

Currently I am slowly working my way through the Perfume Posse “Perfume 101” list. It’s a great beginners who’s who of the perfume style, note and some super gorgeous must sniffs.

So here’s what arrived from the Posh Peasant yesterday!

5ml Hermes; Hermessence Ambre Narguille

2.5ml Estee Lauder; Youth Dew Amber Nude , Serge Lutens; Muscs Kublai Khan

1.5ml Serge Lutens; Clair de Musc, Bvlgari; Au The Vert Extreme

Also, 2 x 1ml gift with purchase CB I Hate Perfumes; Russian Caravan Tea, Serge Lutens; Daim Blond

This is a week of mornings for testing. YAY!!!

Today; Hermes; Hermessence Ambre Narguille. I’ll tell you about it tomorrow

Thanks for dropping by and sharing my (OMFG lengthy) fragrant thoughts.

Have a great day,

Portia xx