L’Attesa by Lucca Maffei for Masque Milano 2016

October 16, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 15 Comments

Post by Robert Herrmann

Hello beautifully fragrant friends,

I know I’ve talked about it before, that magic moment when you discover a scent that absolutely sweeps you off your feet. A scent that makes you just HAVE to sit down before you fall down in an orgasmic faint. In other words, swoon-worthy.

L’Attesa by Masque Milano 2016

L’Attesa by Lucca Maffei

Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, neroli, champagne
Heart: Iris, orris root, tuberose, ylang-ylang
Base: Sandalwood, oakmoss, leather

Yup. That would be the effect that Masque Milano’s L’Attesa had/has on me.

Luca Turin in writing about this magnificent scent said last spring (and I paraphrase):
“…an excellent iris (I cannot think of a better one available today)….”

And boy-howdy it is SO iris, or rather IRIS (IN ALL CAPS) and it lasts on my skin a very long time. On and on, A veritable over-abundance of iris in the very best way possible. So. Iris? Check. Gorgeous? Check. Long lasting? Check. FBW??? Check.

Luca Maffei, the nose behind this fragrance is a niche-fragrance genius having authored such perfumes as Néa and Garuda for Jules Et Mad, the exquisite Rose De Taif edp AND extrait for Perris Monte Carlo, and Cologne Intense for Houbigant among many others.

PDI

L’Attesa (the wait) is exactly that. With three different types of iris, it’s simply anticipation amped up X 1000. Luxurious, smooth as hell, rich and deep. To me, it brings to mind the minutes before a clandestine midnight meet-up in a private hothouse, two glasses of champagne just poured and tested for taste, the fizzy bubbles tickling your nose with that glorious yeasty fermented odor.

The hothouse is full of blooming iris and white flowers, and orange trees, their scent mingling in the warm moist humid air with the perfume of hundreds of bouquets.

A sexual encounter is ensured in a setting like this, so you lay your well-worn leather jacket on the bark-chip pathway creating a place for love making, the leather scent mixing with the smell of just-tilled gardens, rooty, earthy, and fecund.

You hear some soft steps on the gravel path outside. The hothouse door opens. And there is your lover.

The night has just begun.

Flickr

Further reading: Colognoisseur and
LuckyScent has $165/35ml
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $7/0.5ml

Have you tried L’Attesa? What other iris fragrances do you love?
Robert Herrmann x

Rahele GIVEAWAY WINNERS

October 16, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 5 Comments

Post by Portia

Hey All,

Great response this week. Thank you to Neela Vermeire. Rahele is not available commercially yet but will be on the Neela Vermeire Creations page soon.
Portia xx

Rahele GIVEAWAY WINNERS

Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Osmanthus, woody notes, spices, floral notes, herbal notes, leather, oakmoss

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have 2 winners who will receive:
1 x sample of Rahele provided by Neela Vermeire
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Closed Saturday 16th October 2016 10pm Australian EdsT
Winners were chosen by random.org

Jaybee

Hamamelis

The winners will have till Wednesday 19th October 2016 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit

5 Neglected Warm Day + Cool Night Fragrances

October 15, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 12 Comments

Post by Portia

Hey there APJ,

So it’s a Mid Season again. YAY! These are my favourite bits of the year. Autumn and Spring. Why? Well, though I do love the warmth and freezing cold I find life much easier between 20C and 30C as top range heats. Dressing for the day is easier and you only need a comfy old jumper or hoodie as standby for cooler evenings. I also seem to function better physically and mentally in the Mid Seasons and I often feel more inspired to create positive change in my life.

It’s great for fragrance too because almost everything goes, here are some things that I love for these glorious days. I’ve chosen some fragrances that seemed to get a lot of attention when they were released but then have been basically ignored ever since. Yes, I talk about them but I rarely see them mentioned elsewhere so here’s a friendly reminder of some of my Mid Season loves.

5 Neglected Warm Day + Cool Night Fragrances

Fragrantica

Mitzah by DIOR

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Coriander, rose, spices, cinnamon, labdanum, vanilla, honey, patchouli, incense

Mitzah opens all hot smoky spices and incense, with unmentioned leather and tobacco notes. Not an intense journey through the perfume with mountainous peaks and troughs, while there are definite start middle and end notes it’s more of a progression. The kick at the start warms slowly and languidly through mildly sweet towards a honeyed amber dry down.

Fragrantica

The Aoud by Mancera

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Geranium, sandalwood, saffron, incense, rose, agarwood (oud), leather, ambergris

Oudh, geranium and sandalwood are triumphant kings through the story of this fragrance for me, their characters working in tandem and against each other to keep The Aoud interesting and unusual. Though rose is a featured note it doesn’t play heavily here, more a light accompaniment with the leather, saffron and incense. Blooms in the heat and is cuddly at night.

Cuir Pleine Fleur James Heeley Fragrantica Fragrantica

Cuir Pleine Fleur by James Healey

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Italian bergamot, Violet leaf, Cinnamon
Heart: Mimosa, Hawthorn, Suede, Rose, Honey
Base: Vetiver, Castoreum, Birch, Atlas cedar

Cuir Pleine Fleur is one of the easiest leathers I’ve ever smelled, friendly, well worn kid gloves and while being fragrant it is never overpowering or uncomfortable. A green leather, if you can believe it. I am loving it this season because it has a cool edge for warm days and the soft and,alias make it cozy in the cool.

Fragrantica

Indian Wood by Parfumerie Generale

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Sandalwood, vetiver, moss, spicy mint, nutmeg, cardamom, coconut milk, lemon zest

Chai! Sweet, milky, spicy and warming but with a green facet that gives it a papery rasp and picks Indian Wood up. This sweetness comes from the sweetness of milky woods, piquant spices and the warm memories of cooking. Even though this is a gourmand it’s green dryness keeps it from overwhelming in the heat.

Fragrantica

Divine EdP by Divine Parfums

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Tuberose, peach, coriander
Heart: Orange blosson, rose, spices, patchouli, gardenia, jasmine
Base: Sandalwood, vanilla, musk, oakmoss

Big White Flowers and peachy/coriander skank bomb. The tuberose is excellent and lushly indolic, I am always surprised there is no ylang here because I am reminded of its sensual lushness, maybe it’s the orange blossom/tuberose melange.

LuckyScent or First In Fragrance have most of these babies

What do you wear Mid Season or what do you love that isn’t talked about much anymore?
Portia xx

The Art and Olfaction Awards 2017: Submissions Open

October 12, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom

Post by Portia

Heya All,

Basically I cut and pasted with only a few deviations from the Press release. Exciting nonetheless.
Portia x

The Art and Olfaction Awards 2017

Submissions Open

The fourth annual Art and Olfaction Awards events will take place in Europe: Twenty-five shortlisted perfumes and projects will be flagged at Esxence in Milan (March 2017), and we will announce the five winners in a public ceremony in Berlin, on May 6, 2017.

Submissions for the awards are open to independent and artisan perfume brands, and experimental practitioners with scent from all countries. Submissions open on October 5th, 2016 at 9am (PST) and close on November 28th, 2016 at 11:59pm (PST).
In addition to this, we have expanded our panel of expert judges to better represent the global community we serve.

2017’s judges include:
Michael Edwards (UK/Australia), Luca Turin (Greece), Christophe Laudamiel (USA), Annick Le Guérer (France), Katie Puckrik (England), Mandy Aftel (USA), Sarah Horowitz-Thran (USA), Andy Tauer (Switzerland), Helder Suffenplan (Germany), Denyse Beaulieu (France), Mark Behnke (USA), Matthias Janke (Germany), Steven Gontarski (USA), Antonio Gardoni (Italy), Ashley Eden Kessler (USA), Bruno Fazzolari (USA), Dana El Masri (Canada), Harald Lubner (Germany), Sherri Sebastian (USA), Yvettra Grantham (USA), Ashraf Osman (Switzerland), Caro Verbeek (The Netherlands), Kaya Sorhaindo (Germany/USA), Kóan Jeff Baysa (USA), Matthias Tabert (USA), Simon Niedenthal (Sweden), with several more to be announced.

Learn more at Art and Olfaction Awards

L`Heure Diaphane VIII Cartier: Les Heures de Parfum by Mathilde Laurent for Cartier 2011

October 10, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 10 Comments

Post by TinaG

“Alice: How long is forever?
White Rabbit: Sometimes, just one second.”
Alice in Wonderland

Hi APJ,

Life can get hectic, whether it’s as a result of factors external or internal, work, family, home life – bring too many activities together without some space between, and everything starts to get compounded. When it’s all too much, I occasionally look for the immediacy of headspace which a beautiful fragrance can bring. Often these times lie in the realms of Hermès Hermessences, but I was given two samples of Cartier’s Les Heures de Parfum by the beautiful Tara of A Bottled Rose, and I found both to be just lovely.

Cartier

The Les Heures de Parfum line of fragrances have been created by Cartier’s perfumer, Mathilde Laurent. I knew so little about Cartier overall that I did a bit of research into the Les Heures collection, and their slimline bottles affixed with roman numerals. The samples I had to hand were of I L’Heure Promise (that prefix is a roman numeral “I”), and VIII L’Heure Diaphane. I thought my sources were sketchy when I couldn’t locate a V, and found a XIII which you won’t see on any regular clockface…. The fragrances themselves felt delicious, specifically chosen and placed at a point in time with purpose and not simply running up numerically for the sake of completeness. I liked it. Here’s a glimpse of Diaphane for you.

L`Heure Diaphane VIII Cartier by Cartier 2011

L`Heure Diaphane VIII Cartier: Les Heures de Parfum by Mathilde Laurent

Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Rose, peony, litchi

VIII L’Heure Diaphane spritzes on light and fresh, rose-centric underpinned with greenness. Uplifting and refreshing, its star attraction is a wonderful peony note. If you’ve never smelt peony, it is quite rose-like, but somewhat truncated from a full “rose” spectrum. There are some stronger pink-red rosy hints in here as well but seem selective. The notes for L’Heure Diaphane are peony, rose and lychee, simple and complimentary, but together create a fragrance which is profound and elegant. The overall effect is one of a shimmering fluid-like quality, not watery as such but has a subtle movement like spiders web in a breeze. I can detect a slight pepperiness which is most likely as aspect of the peony, and rose notes accentuate rather than overwhelm.

It makes me feel: languid, gentle, intelligent, cheeky, proud, caring, efficient – all the things which get pushed to one side to meet deadlines, deal with annoying people, get frustrated with news and world events – just for example. It might sound simplistic but it is clarity and breathing space, perfect for the workplace or a weekend at home. Almost totally linear and worn close to the skin it is both a diamond and silk all wrapped up together, which can either be shown off or held to the heart.

Cartier

Further reading: What Men Should Smell Like and Grain de Musc
Saks Fifth Avenue has $285/75ml
Cartier stores and large department store counters also stock it.
Surrender To Chance have samples starting at $6/0.5ml

“You say, go slow…. I fall behind. The second hand unwinds….”
Cyndi Lauper

What fragrances have you found which provide an essential grounding in your daily life?

Till next time,
Tina G xx

Serge Lutens Wax Samples GIVEAWAY WINNERS

October 9, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 5 Comments

Post by Portia

WOO HOO APJ!
This was an excellent giveaway! Thanks so much to Serge Lutens Palais Royale for their generosity.

Let’s see who won,
Portia xx

Serge Lutens Wax Samples GIVEAWAY WINNERS

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have 3 winners who will receive:
1 x complete set of Serge Lutens Wax Samples
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Closed Saturday 8th October 2016 10pm Australian EST
Winners will be chosen by random.org

Lissette

Nikki R

Laurels

The winners will have till Wednesday 12th October 2016 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit

NEW!! Cuir Mojito by Daniel Barros 2016

October 7, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 9 Comments

Post by Portia

Hello Independent Perfumery Lovers,

I have a mate, Daniel Barros. Recently he launched a line of fragrances al centred on famous drinks and giving them a twist, a new lease of fragrant life. He sent me some to try and I’m pretty excited to be introducing them to you all. I am slowly making my way through them but one that already has particularly caught my attention for its weirdness and interesting scent life is todays fragrance….

Cuir Mojito by Daniel Barros 2016

Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Lime, mint, rum, saffron, grass
Heart: Lily-of-the-valley, violet, geranium, patchouli
Base: Oakmoss, leather, cashmeran, geranium, musk

Two things I love in fragrance are mint and leather. The only fragrance I have that addresses the two of them together is Black Rosette by Strange Invisible Perfumes. There are a few similarities here but Daniel has created something far less metallic & alien and infinitely more comfortable to wear.

My nose misses most of the notes in Cuir Mojito and i’m unsure whether it’s me or that the fragrance is so well blended that the notes are all morphing into the scent. Creating it but not showcasing themselves. Lime and mint are in your face noticeable immediately ands so are the saffron and leather. I think I can pick the spice of geranium and coolness of violet leaf and now and then I notice flashes of patchouli….

PDI

If you like your fragrance smooth and department store safe then you will probably be a little overwhelmed by Cuir Mojito. It’s big, abrasive, in your face and independent feeling. It takes chances and doesn’t follow current trends. Above that even is that it feels fun, a bit naughty, slightly over the top and very carefree. Just like a Mojito makes me feel if I order it before dinner.

Cuir Mojito dries down to a very happy reminder of one of my favourite leathers Knize Ten, not the same but similar. I can still smell soft buttery leather wafts hours and hours later.

Flickr

Want some? You can contact Daniel Barros on contato@egoinvitro.com.br

US$45 for a 30 ml bottle and US$65 for a discovery kit with 4 x 9 ml small bottles

I hope you get to try some of Daniels fragrances,
Portia xx

Sniffory GIVEAWAY WINNER

October 7, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 2 Comments

Post by Portia

Hey APJ,

Thanks to Sniffory for their generosity and Azar for getting in and finding out about them.
Let’s see who won,

Portia xx

Sniffory GIVEAWAY WINNER

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have 1 winners who will receive:
1 x 15ml Sniffory designer sample (once they open for business)
P&H USA ONLY

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Closed Thursday 6th October 2016 10pm Australian EST
Winners were chosen by random.org

Gina Tabasso

The winners will have till Sunday 9th October 2016 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit

Serge Lutens Wax Samples

October 6, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 28 Comments

Post by Portia

Hey APJ,

Earlier this year Jin & I were treated to a morning of sniffing the Serge Lutens Bell Jar collection at the Palais Royal store in Paris. We were led upstairs by our glamorous hostess and treated to one of the most incredible experiences that I’ve enjoyed through my perfumistahood. Usually only done for groups of four or more and the expectation is that you will shop like crazy at the end. Obviously we did, buying for ourselves and friends, leaving with 7 or 8 bell jars. Elvira was our hostess and I tell every group that I know is going to Paris and loves fragrance to book the Masterclass. Should you be going to France and wish to book this marvellous fragrant adventure there is a Serge Lutens Contact Page, attention Elvire.

At the end of the class Elvira gave me three complete packs of the wax samples to give away on APJ but I only just found them again. The wax samples are not meant to be worn, they are to give you an idea of how the late heart and dry down will smell. It’s not an exact science and your body will change the way the scent progresses a little too but for an idea of how a fragrance smells it’s pretty good.

Serge Lutens Wax Samples GIVEAWAY

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have 3 winners who will receive:
1 x complete set of Serge Lutens Wax Samples
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOW DO YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Please tell us which is your favourite Serge Lutens fragrance or the one you’re most interested to try?

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Saturday 8th October 2016 10pm Australian EST and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winners will be chosen by random.org
The winners will have till Wednesday 12th October 2016 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit

Ainslie’s Pitti 2016 Photo Essay

October 4, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 10 Comments

Post by Ainslie Walker

Hi Fragrant Friends,

I popped over to Florence, Italy (Firenze as the locals call it) for Pitti Fragranze in September. The fair showcases the best in Niche perfumery, a whopping 270 brands exhibited this year! If you times that by how many fragrances in each collection, you’ll start to understand how much brain/nose cramming was done over the 3 days – I hope to share some of the magic so you feel you were there too!

Ainslie’s Pitti 2016 Photo Essay

I saw a big sign in front of an almost rundown building, Stazione Leopalda announcing the event. The entrance served as an area where people could relax, interview and of course, being Italy, smoke! The interior was rustic and industrial but with loads and loads of shiny new stalls set up and numbers and flowers hanging from the ceiling. My Pitti app let me know the theme was Numbers and Flowers – an art show running simultaneously expressing connections of numbers and flowers – the right numerical proportions can create palpable sensory experiences.

Die!! I WAS IN NICHE HEAVEN!!

I’d never been to Pitti before, so, full of excitement I began my first day’s journey and spotted Andy Tauer straight away. He was launching his new fragrance Tuberose Flash so I had a chat, sniff and also of newbie, At Coeur Desert…oh and of course had a quick selfie with him.

Turning, I saw the new Atelier des Ors – Iris Fauve and sprayed it, knowing I was more than likely spending $400 if I fell in love – it’s divine: smooth, sensual – I need to wear it some more but the iris was almost caramelised and velvet during the dry down.

Then my phone rang and it was Mark Buxton (OMG!!) – he was running a tad late to meet me – I resniffed his fragrances and neighbouring Eccentric Molecules while I waited for our scheduled interview…which of course you’ll be reading here in the upcoming weeks. HILARIOUSUS chap!

One stall along further, I ran into Nicolas Chabot who not only had his beautifully reinvigorated Le Galion collection, of which I got to smell a few, new to my nose and his novelty for Pitti, Sang Bleu. I had been anticipating experiencing his new brand, Aether for some time as it rolled out on instagram so he took me through the collection – all based on molecules and there were some really interesting scents I need to try on skin STAT. Overall I love the packaging and vibe which is quite dark and apothecary-like.

Montale had The New Rose on sparking and catchy metallic display – they handed me a small sample, so a review will follow (eventually).

Carner Barcelona was showing newbie, Costarela.

Lovely warm, Neela Vermeire and I had a half hour chat through the range and she doused me in her newest fragrance Raheme, ready for my evening, a lovely osmanthus based floral number made by perfumer Bertrand Douchfour. I left from day 1 in a cloud of exotic goodness!

More Pitti to follow in my next post(s)! Have you ever been?

Ainslie XX