Niki de Saint Phalle

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Post by Portia

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Hey there vintage fumie friends,

Travelling around winter South Korea recently I was astonished at how perfectly Niki de Saint Phalle’s eponymous fragrance worked in almost every situation. I took a 30ml spray bottle and went through more than half of it on a ten day journey. There is a soft furriness to its green chypre that makes it more cosy than CHANEL No 19 and less fancy lady than Robert Piguet’s Futur, in the cold weather. You may notice on APJ I often write about fragrances being wearable and unchallenging, on many blogs that would be a derisive pointer to bland uninteresting fragrance but from my point of view a fragrance must be wearable in my life. Sure I have a few that I spritz at home for my own freak flag enjoyment but when I venture forth I want to wear my scents as a comfortable cloak not ammunition.

Niki de Saint Phalle

Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Artemisia, mint, green notes, peach, bergamot
Middle: Carnation, patchouli, orris root, jasmine, ylang-ylang, cedar, rose
Base: Leather, sandalwood, amber, musk, oakmoss

Sadly I am finding it harder and harder to track down any of the spritz bottles of Niki de Saint Phalle and am kicking myself for not buying a dozen of them when I noticed they were getting harder to find. GRRRRR. It will be decanting into atomisers for the rest of my life. Oh well, not really a hardship.

So Niki de Saint Phalle is a chypre. Full of softly furry green-ness. To be honest I can’t pick most of the notes. Artemisia, galbanum, carnation, leather and oakmoss are the things I notice but everything else seems to sit in a background chorus. Once upon a time though the note list used to include tagetes (marigolds) now THEM I can smell and a light salt coating. Dry and austere it’s amazing how many moments it’s perfect for. Currently I’m sitting in my office and it’s a 41C day, Niki de saint Phalle cuts through the humidity and takes me to a cool dry thicket near a stream. Cool and fecund, I can smell the earth, greenery, woodland creatures or birds must have a nest nearby because the soft furry, powdery musk of creature babies is here and the smell of tree made shade.

WikiCommons

For real luxury grab the Shower Gel too, it makes the most unbelievably gorgeous bubble baths. Then when you spritz there’s already a soft layer of Niki de saint Phalle to layer over.

Further reading: Non Blonde and Yesterday’s Perfume
FragranceNet has AUD$31/30ml before coupon
The Perfumed Court has samples starting at $3/ml

Five years ago I wrote about Niki de Saint Phalle here at APJ, and have written of it elsewhere. It’s a staple around here.

Do you have a go-to, fits anywhere scent? Maybe one that’s getting harder to find?
Portia xxx

 

HOLIDAYS!! South Korea 2016: Photo Essay

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Post by Portia

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Hi there APJ,

It feels utterly sinful to be frolicking on holidays while the world implodes politically and in so many other ways. Still, here we are in South Korea with Jin’s family and friends.

Here are a few of the billions of photographs I’ve taken. Come see a slice of South Korea, its people and some fun things to do on a seven night getaway. Can I also tell you that South Korea is still incredibly affordable.

HOLIDAYS!! South Korea 2016: Photo Essay

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Pick up from Ulsan station. You can’t tell but Mummy & Pappa are thrilled to see us. It’s very late at night.

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Breakfast in Yangsan. You’ll notice the family has Pork Soup and I have a Croissant. I know, I’m a Philistine.

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Visiting Grandma who has Alzheimers. 4 generations of family, from two branches, sharing love and special moments. Grandma remembered Jin so he was over the moon. We had bought her a bunch of Japanese sweets and treats because she studied in Japan when she was a teenager (unheard of for a woman in that time).

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On our way to the mountains with Mummy & Pappa to see the autumn leaves. Sadly the leaves were not 100% co-operative because it’s been a really weird season. We did see some lovely colour and every new vista was so picturesque.

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We stayed in the faded grandeur of the Jirisan Spa Land. Though the decor was tired and the maintenance on the gardens and building had lapsed we could still see what it was designed to be. Beds and rooms were comfortable and spacious. The spa baths were clean and neat and the family loved their time in the waters which left our skin soft and lightly fragranced with minerals and salts.

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On our way home from BarBQ dinner in the village that night we saw some strange arguments and a boozy customer screaming. As we left the next morning the site was crawling with Police & CSI. Jin’s Dad got out and explained what we’d seen last night. We were all called into the Cop Shop for questioning and to give statements, also to identify the miscreant. It was super fun.

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While Mummy & Pappa were in with the cops Jin & I went exploring and found this wonderful shrine. The plaque below explains everything. Nice find in rural South Korea.

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The tip top of the highest mountain in South Korea you can drive to the top of. We wandered around, had some noodles and coffee. It was a great cheap family adventure. How handsome is Jin’s Dad?

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Back in Busan they are having a Chrysanthemum show. While all the usual types were there I had never seen them trained into the tortured Bonsai experience. They look freaking amazing and I am now inspired to try it at home.

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Jin thinks it looks like an ice-cream but I think it looks like a Butt Plug, making this photo extra creepy.

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Dinner with one of Jin’s childhood BFFs Kinam in the Westin Chosun, Busan. We have stayed in this hotel and I really love the way they keep the 5* dream alive. Dinner in the Camellia Restaurant is always gorgeous.

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Mummy & Pappa’s apartment block.

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While shopping we found these crazy ETRO paisley slippers. VERY Roja Dove!

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Hanging out playing Transformers with another of Jin’s BFFs, Jungyon, and her daughter. Loud screaming laughter ensued.

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So next day we are off to the famous Kijang Crab Market in Busan. Below is a Korean Crab that came as a GWP for the huge monster King Crab we bought for lunch.

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Yes, here it is. You can’t really see but the top of the shell was easily 3 of Jin’s hands. ENORMOUS! Mummy & Pappa had never had a King Crab before but their friends had talked of it for years after having the experience. I was completely unaware of this when I asked Jin to find out what the most delicious and meatiest crab they had. Not being a seafood eater my knowledge is pretty sparse.

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Here they both are cooked and cut, ready for eating. You have no idea how much meat there was. The three of them ate till they were absolutely disgustingly full, then they ate some more. There was still a third of the meat left which will make delicious seafood salad over the next two days. Mummy & Pappa now have bragging rights for the next decade.

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Then we went to the seaside Haedong Yonggungsa Buddhist temple. It’s about 100 steps down and on the way I managed to get a coin into the wishing pot, after many tries. We bought some candles to light and prayed for all of you, our friends, family and the world in general. I think in light of this weeks events that the world will need every ray of light.

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Tonight I put my foot down. Dinner at HOME with the family. So we trooped out to Mummy & Pappas little farm with Jin’s BFF Jungyon & daughter and we gorged on Korean BarBQ, drank Whiskey & Soju and generally had a fabulous time celebrating Mummy & Pappas 4oth Anniversary and our 5th Anniversary, which are spookily only 5 days apart. Jin & I had procured a bunch of Roman Candle fireworks and we had a fabulous display after dinner. The whole night was magical and fun.

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Back to Seoul tomorrow and then home.

Niki de Saint Phalle Niki de Saint Phalle FragranticaFragrantica

Been wearing Niki de Saint Phalle almost exclusively. It really seems to fit South Korea.

It’s been great. What’s your favourite family meal?
Portia xx

Celebuscents I Don’t Hate

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Post by Portia

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Hi there Fragrance Lovers,

Celebuscents have been a bone of contention among perfumistas for years. While most of them are dross put out by the big fragrance conglomerates with little or no reference and involvement from the celebrities themselves surprisingly some of them have turned out to be quite good, wearable, viable options. Even some celebrities that I loathe have put out one frag that I like, even though I refuse to purchase on ethical grounds. Startlingly, some of the celebrities that I have long adored have put out shit that I wouldn’t clean a toilet with. So I thought a list of some of my favourite celebuscents may help you wade through the incredible amounts out there. Yes, there are a few that make everybodies list but others seem to have flown beneath the radar.

Celebuscents I Don’t Hate

Dita Von Teese FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Dita Von Teese: The original Dita Von Teese is a fun rose/white floral in the radiant style. Sheer and very wearable. I went through one of the 20ml flacons in no time. You can get the shower gel and body lotions for next to nothing at the discounters.

Black Pearls Elizabeth Taylor FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Elizabeth Taylor Black Pearls: Still in the top ten sellers of celebuscents each year Elizabeth Taylor’s range is big. My favourite is the very 1980s peach, amber and woodsy flamboyance of Black Pearls. This one will announce your arrival a few feet ahead of you.

L Gwen Stefani FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Gwen Stefani L: I wore this fragrance in a big way for a while but it started giving me headaches. It’s a pear & peach powerhouse done in radiant style and has very tenacious longevity. Nowadays if I want to wear it I spritz my lower back and knees.

Halle Halle Berry FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Halle Berry Halle: A very glamorous floriental with a hint of fig that becomes the warmest, silkiest amber. This could easily dupe some of the expensive niche ambers and lasting power is excellent. It’s not groundbreaking or challenging but Halle smells really good.

Jennifer Aniston Jennifer Aniston ParfumoPhoto Stolen Parfumo

Jennifer Aniston: A fresh, aquatic jasmine Jennifer Anniston is pretty, vegetally sweet and a little tropically lush. A bit heftier than most of the radiant fragrances and the flowers are better in waft than nose pressed to skin but as it goes by it’s a definite head turner.

Fancy Nights Jessica Simpson FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Jessica Simpson Fancy Nights: Imagine Shalimar with a triple dose of gooey caramel and more patchouli. It’s rich, intense and has powerful sillage for the first hour. Once Fancy Nights settles it is a rich amber/patch bomb that sits just above your skin for hours.

Truth or Dare Madonna FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Madonna Truth or Dare: BIG WHITE FLORAL along the lines of Fracas but longer lasting and not so far into the bubble gum arena. If you like white flowers with a warm amber base then Truth or Dare, which is basically free, should be on your list.

Niki de Saint Phalle Niki de Saint Phalle FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Niki de Saint Phalle: This is my personal go-to green. The minty and fruity opening is a masterpiece of bittersweet, the iris led floral bouquet through the heart and the softly warmed base of woodsy moss. Perfect.

Paloma Picasso Paloma Picasso FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Paloma Picasso: Imagine an animalic, extra cloves, hefty on the oakmoss CHANEL No 5 and you are pretty much on track for this 1980s supernova of a fragrance. Paloma Picasso will announce your arrival.

Lovely Sarah Jessica Parker  FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Sarah Jessica Parker Lovely: I know, it’s on EVERY list. That’s becausae it’s good. Smells fantastic on everyone. Radiant floral with a super musk and spice motto. Lovely is well named.

Queen by Queen Latifah FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Queen Latifah Queen: Boozy citrus with a soft white flower and a hefty, elegant vanilla base. Lasts forever and smells fantastic. I gift Queen often and it’s become one of my BFF Kath’s faves too.

Special mentions go to Siren and Fairy Dust by Paris Hilton, Queen of Hearts by Queen Latifah, Truth or Dare Naked by Madonna, Cher Uninhibited, Pure Honey by Kim Kardashian, With Love by Hilary Duff, Still by Jennifer Lopez, Covet by SJP, Boyfriend by Kate Walsh, Adam Levine Woman, Our Moment by One Direction and Deneuve by Catherine Deneuve.

Most are still available to try from My Perfume Samples and Surrender To Chance

Go on, which are your favourite celebuscents?
Portia xx

If you hit the link and shop with My Perfume Samples I get a kickback!

Top 10 Spring/Autumn Fragrances 2015 Perfume Reviews

Hello Gorgeous APJ Family,

It’s Top 10 Spring/Autumn Fragrances time again, my favourite seasons are Autumn and Spring, the mid seasons. I love that in both these seasons the weather can be remarkably similar, sunny and warm on one day, freezing or blustery on another, nights are cool to cold and so the overall wearings are quite similar. These fragrances are on my desk and within easy spritz reach and they only stay on the desk while they are getting regular spritz time, if they’ve been sitting there for more than a few days without attention they go back in the cupboard.

Top 10 Spring:Autumn Fragrances mrhayata FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

Top 10 Spring:Autumn Fragrances PixabayPhoto Stolen Pixabay

Top 10 Spring/Autumn Fragrances 2015 Perfume Reviews

Futur* – Robert Piguet: The ungreenest green ever. Sappy, sweet, green and extremely wearable all year round. Futur has been out of the cupboard and on my skin quite a bit lately and it fits any occasion.

Liberte* – Cacharel: A screaming, sizzling, BarBQ’d orange that is so sugary and ends up in a vanilla/patchouli/orange finale. I’ve loved it for years and now that it seems to be discontinued I’ve had to grab a couple of back up bottles.

Shalimar EdP* + Parfum – Guerlain: My old faithful. Shalimar fits every season, every mood and every event. From it’s citrus gelato opening to the resinous, vanilla and leather dry down I love Shalimar through and through. If I had to pick a fragrance to be my one and only Shalimar would be it.

CHANEL No 22: Yes, it’s the modern EdT. I bought it in NYC on our trip and that aldehydic zwoosh is too fabulous for words. Lasts all day, smells incredible and I feel like a million dollars from spritz to shower.

Mitzah – DIOR Prive: For those cooler nights Mitzah. Sweet, spicy, animal roses that feel like they have a whisper of oud in with the patchouli. Warm and sensual but cool enough to wear all year.

Neroli & Orchidee – L’Occitane: Another great L’Occitane cheap and cheerful fragrance! Spring has definitely sprung. I have been loving it sick but the final stamp of approval was given by Willa Zheng on Friday, she totally agrees and I trust her nose completely.

Niki de Saint Phalle: I can’t stop spritzing this glamorous green. Bright, fun and energetic. Niki de Saint Phalle is take charge with a twinkle in your eye. I think it’s the mint in the opening contrasting with the fruit and galbanum, gets me every time.

Nirvana Black by Elizabeth & James: Warm sandalwoodsy vanilla. Great price, excellent packaging. Wear this shit everywhere.

Pichola – Neela Vermeire Creations: The softest, most complex and wonderful tuberose. Surrounded by other notes and accords but it is the tuberose, sheer and clean, shorn of all its intimate, breathy and shitty bits we are left with the clearest, green herbs and spice overlaid tuberose. Beautiful, wearable and a complete divergence for the line while maintaining so many of the things I love.

Un Jardin Apres la Mousson by Hermes: That thick oily, wet, sweet, herbaceous freak of a fragrance. I find it addictive and love to lose myself in its heavy sheer wafts.

There are my current mid-season Top 10. They will probably be changed by next week but right now these ten fragrances are getting good skin time and working extremely well in the changeable conditions that the mid-seasons hand us.

What are you wearing right now? Give me a Top 3 if you’ve got one…..

Loads of love to you all, wherever and in what ever weather,
Portia x

The roses of Heliogabalus oil on canvas 132.7 x 214.4 cmPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

* Second year in the Top 10