Perfume

A Perfumista Pilgrimage – Serge Lutens

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Guest Post by Jordan River

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Serge Lutens

sergelutens.com

sergelutens.com

Mr Lutens is the magician of the fragrant stratosphere. A self-described sorcerer. A virtual recluse who conjures mysterious and amazing perfumes. He puts the genie in the bottle and you get to take it out. He is A Spell Jar of Adventure. The gravitas of the critiques of his releases and by who makes for fascinating reading. Wax Samples are the entry point to this particular wormhole. You have been warned. The solid perfume is an almost exact scent rendering and an excellent method to choose what to explore further in these eau de parfums. After that you have three collection choices, La Fille de Berlin, Selective Distribution (formerly ‘export’) and Exclusives. And after that you have numbered limited edition flacons. The Exclusives come in bell jars that until very recently have only been available at the Paris store. Hence the need for a pilgrimage. All 36 bell jars will suffice you for 3 years at the rate of a bottle a month. Clever people place small glass marbles in their bell jar to raise the juice level after constant application.

What interests me is going further, not into the perfume, but deeper into myself, exploring my innermost depths to extract darkness from light, and make it just as visible – Serge Lutens

sergelutens.com

sergelutens.com

In 1992 Serge opened his house of perfumes called Les Salons du Palais Royal. His vision was for

a unique place in the world where one would come as an enlightened being to define oneself through one’s perfume, in order to stand out from the identity-free crowd which previous times had imposed upon us.

It is to this salon in Paris than many a perfumista has made a pilgrimage. The latest one to embark on a quest for a bell jar is our very own Portia. Which bell jar of Sergian notes is calling out to her as she leaves The Land Down Under for The Perfume Capital of the Universe? A dry dry desert wind, a night or tuberose, a cry from the depths, the sweat of Kublai Khan, blackened amber, or the atmosphere, if not the very voice of Billie Holiday? If you can guess (and if this offer is not edited out!) then a decant will be yours on her return (Ed: Better than a decant I have something VERY special for our winners Jordan. SEE BELOW). Careful here, Portia is unpredictable! I’m thinking Sarrasins. What do you think?

Jordan River

Jordan River

References and Further Information

Serge Lutens Bell Jars are now available in New York at Barneys.

La Fille de Berlin (Selective Distribution range) was launched at Les Salons du Palais Royal last month.

Serge Lutens Interview 1 – Denyse Beaulieu
Serge Lutens Interview 2 – Denyse Beaulieu
Serge Lutens
Serge Lutens US site
Serge Lutens – Information by Snap

WHAT YOU CAN WIN

As you know it’s our ONE YEAR BIRTHDAY WEEK. There are 3 prizes today for our lovely readers who leave a message in comments with a Serge Lutens fragrance I may have bought from the Palais Royal Store. Courtesy of the beautiful girls who work there I have 3 x Solid Sample Quartets to give away.

#1. De Profundis, Santal Blanc, Iris Silver Mist, Louve

#2. Chene, Un Bois Sepia, Borneo 1834, Vetiver Oriental

#3. Cuir Mauresque, Fumerie Turque, Boxeuses, Muscs Koublai Khan

Included is P&P to anywhere in the world

NO you don’t get to chose!!

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Friday March 22nd 2013 10pm AEDST and winners will be announced in a separate post on Sunday 24th March.
Winners will be chosen by putting names on same sized papers, folded similarly, put on a tray and TSO Jin will pick them. He doesn’t even stop watching TV to do it usually.
The winners will have till Wednesaday 27th March 2013 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or I will give the prize to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

Best Birthday Wishes to you all.

Portia xx

Rosae Mundi by Profumum 2012

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Guest Post by Michael

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Hi Fragaholics
The lovely Portia passed on a sample of a new fragrance currently piquing my interest, Rosae Mundi from Italian niche house Profumum.

The official lines from Profumum: “Sentiments that have has always belonged to me merge with the unseen. Joy and passion. I envision letting myself go in your arms to mysterious sensations and emotions.” Err, okidoki then.

RosaeMundi FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica


Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Rose, patchouli, cedar wood and vetiver.

The opening is a very familiar rosey bouquet.
The rose smells quite loud and perfumey. It doesn’t strike me as a deep multifaceted rose nor is it naturalistic. This is the smell of womens rose perfumes of past decades and does remind me of the rose in YSL’s Paris (original formulation). In addition to the rose I get a violet accord, some white florals (Jasmine?), aldehydes, iris and green notes. I think it’s supposed to provide a sort of bouquet effect, but I get more of an impression of a woman wearing a big floral rose. Remember the 80s? Shiny dress, permed hair and big shoulder pads –power dressing and power perfumes.

After 30 or so minutes the Rosae Mundi starts to settle down with the floral rose notes receding slightly.
Patchouli and cedre form the base with only a very little vetiver as far as I can tell. Again, these notes aren’t deep multifaceted renditions nor are they naturalistic. Think singular, aroma chemical representations rather than natural oils or complex accords.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Perhaps the easiest way to describe this fragrance is the rose/florals of Paris on top of the deconstructed base of Lumiere Noire Pour Homme. Of course it’s its own fragrance but this is at least an approximation.

If you like 80s rosey florals a la YSL’s Paris then I’d suggest giving this a test run. It could possibly appeal to guys looking for a semi-masculine rose too, although I suspect most guys will run 1,000 miles from wearing this leaving a big bloke-y shaped hole in the wall.

Longevity and sillage are both high

LuckyScent has 100ml/$265 or .7ml/$5

All in all I’m still not entirely sure what to make of this Rosae Mundi. What do you think of it?

ONE YEAR ANNIVERSARY!! Statistics and First Post Reprise!!

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ONE YEAR ANNIVERSARY!!

Tomorrow, the 18th March marks 365 days of continuous posts on AustralianPerfumeJunkies. What started out as two besties having a bash has turned into quite a going concern and I cannot believe I have stuck to it with such tenacity. Many of you have been with us from the earliest posts and I thank you for your support and sometimes forebearance. Also welcome to our newest followers, I hope you enjoy being a part of our APJ family. Your readership and comments keep us coming back to the computer every day, week and month.

A big THANK YOU goes out to all our Guest Post providers. Without you all and your amazing contributions I worry that APJ would be nothing. All of you, past and present, are amazing and I am inspired by you all every week. EvieC, Madeleine, EmmaKate, Katrina, Dionne, Suzanne R Banks, Val the Cookie Queen, Robert “Radium” Maxwell, Tim, Margeaux, Jordan River, Michael: Each of you has brought something new and amazing to APJ and I am proud and honoured that you give up precious spare time to write, sniff and sniff some more. Many of you we have welcomed into our home for wonderful meals and fragrant conversations. YOU ARE AMAZING!!

Another THANK YOU to my bestie and partner Kath and Jin, how blessed am I? Life just got a whole lot rosier now that we are all on site. Nothing I could ever write here would come close to how much I love, revere, adore you both and am grateful for your continued inclusion in my life. You are my family.

OneYear southernshopaholicPhoto Stolen SouthernShopaholic

Some stats

379 Posts
5,594 Comments
129,870 Visitors
Best Month was November 2012 – 22,525
Best Day was November 13 2012 – 1,165
Most Click Throughs from Perfume Posse, Olfactoria’s Travels, Google
Most Click Throughs to Perfume Posse, Posh Peasant, Surrender To Chance

Now I am looking forward to the next 12 months. We have some wonderful things in the pipeline and are prepped and ready to go for some others. Looking into the future is hard because it’s looking so BRIGHT!!

I wish you all Health, Wealth and Happiness on our journey together for the next twelve months.
LOVE LOVE LOVE
Portia xxxx

As a reminiscence, here is our first post on fragrance

Tabac Original by Maurer & Wirtz

Cheapy McCheap! and Cheerful.

So yesterday morning we awoke very late, it was almost time to rush out the door for pedicures and then Yum Cha (or YUMMY CHA CHA CHA!). No time to decide on anything really. Raining outside, meeting besties (big HELLO to Kath & Alice & Jin), no pressure. On went super comfy new sloppy joe, jeans, thongs. Perfume, fragrance, something?? Can’t think. Can’t think. Can’t think. Reaching…….

Maurer & Wirtz Tabac Original EDT spray, modern incarnation, comes back towards me in my hand. Really brain? Really hand? Clearly my mind and body have understood what my inner self would never have said. Spray on my thorax twice, one wrist, one elbow, mash. Wait and waft…………..

An Aromatic Fougere (pronounced Foo zair but the z is almost a j like the Chinese say Beijing) and if you want the notes then Fragrantica is your spot. Woody, herbal, floral, tobacco and aldehydic are the given accords there and on my skin I get a rush of citrus and herbs at the opening, it squeals a bit, then as my skin warms the fragrance (and it does, I can feel a warm reaction, a bit like Vicks Vaporub) then the powdery iris and lavender saunter in MMMMM. By the time I am at our destination Tabac is humming along nicely with the flora, woods and herbs all whiffling up my sloppy joe each time I move. This is a perfect warm but rainy day fragrance for the casual event. At lunch I am complimented by a discerning girlfriend who is gobsmacked that something so inexpensive can be this lovely. I concur. Hours later, snuggling with my partner I can still smell a tiny and very sexy hint of musk and vanilla. So good I’ve come in to reapply and go through the story again. Now, going back to see if it works, it would on me.

PS. Worked a treat!Photo Stolen from Fragrantica

Thanks for reading,
Portia xx

Don’t Forget to enter our 1 YEAR ANNIVERSARY GIVEAWAY!!(<<JUMP)

12 MONTH ANNIVERSARY GIVEAWAY!!

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one-year thehealthyapronPhoto Stolen thehealthyapron

12 MONTH ANNIVERSARY GIVEAWAY!!

Every Birthday deserves presents so we have an extraordinary prize today.

When I was in Paris in February, shopping at Guerlain on the first floor of the Galleries Lafayette, I was given a special gift with purchase that is so precious to me that it would NEVER get opened. It is a four pack of beautifully boxed Eau Imperial 40g soaps in a very desirable presentation case. This GWP was not even in the regular gift line but an exclusive gift for the people invited to Guerlain’s Christmas Party in 2012 and the last of its kind that the girl had to give away. THIS IS SPECIAL!!!

If we make 100 individuals commenting I will add in one Kerosen X Pegasus Perfumed Soap made especially for RELIEF Fundraiser made of Coconut, Palm and Castor oils from sexy John at Kerosene Fragrances as a second giveaway!!

HOW DO YOU WIN?

Leave a comment below wishing us congratulations. That’s IT!

Extra Chance? Tweet: @OzPerfumeJunkie 12 MONTH ANNIVERSARY GIVEAWAY!! http://wp.me/p2fQBU-1pL @Guerlain

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Tuesday March 19th 2013 10pm AEDST and winners will be announced in a separate post on Thursday 21st March.
Winners will be chosen by putting names on same sized papers, folded similarly, put on a tray and TSO Jin will pick them. He doesn’t even stop watching TV to do it usually.
The winners will have till Sunday 23rd March 2013 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or I will give the prize to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

NEW La Petite Robe Noir “Party In Paris” Movie

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 11 Comments

Heya,

I LOVE the new La Petite Robe Noire movie. In honour of my being in David Jones Guerlain yesterday and how helpful the SA Penny was. She knew her stuff and was so helpful and friendlly, even inviting us to come back and chat whenever we were in town. Jin spritzed Habit Rouge which sang beautiful powdery spice on his skin for hours and I went all out for L’Heure Blue parfum. OMG! I am in love.

Please do enjoy the movie,
See you tomorrow,

Portia x

LaPetiteRobeNoir kingdomofstylePhoto Stolen kingdomofstyle

Eric Bana for Bulgari Man Extreme Fragrance 2013 Ad Campaign

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 27 Comments

Bulgari Man Extreme Fragrance 2013 Ad Campaign

Hey all you lovely fashion forward fragrance hounds,

I love it when new and gorgeous celebs get picked for fragrance commercials.

BvlgariManExtreme FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica
Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Pink grapefruit, Calabrian bergamot, cactus zest
Heart: White freesia, Guatemalan cardamom, amber
Base: Haiti vetiver, Laoese benzoin and Balsa wood.
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The not extreme version os this fragrance was the first perfume I bought for TSO Jin. He still wears it regularly and when we found the Frag, Deodorant, Wet Pack Set on a ridiculous special he bought some and now all his friends wear it too. So I know what the extreme must smell like because when they all get together it is a fabulous scent cloud to be in the midst of. We saw this recently and Jin tried it but the notes list doesn’t do the product justice, there is no mention of the wetness or space between the notes, the soft but insistent weaving of this fragrance through your own body smell so that though all Jin’s mates smell similar they all also make Bulgari Man smell quite different with one note or another taking prominence on their skins.
The Extreme is fuller, heftier and has the half life of plutonium.
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MyPerfumeSamples has the original Bvlgari Man from $2/ml to $7/5ml
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Don’t you LOVE Eric Bana. OMG!! I have had a serious crush on him for years.
See you tomorroew.
Portia x.

Peter Lindbergh photographed actor Eric Bana for the latest campaign image of Bulgari Man Extreme fragrance.

Image via Models.com

Stolen from one of my Fashion Go To Blogs art8amby

An Interview with Eric Bana

Here is the ad

Lys Mediterranee by Edouard Flechier for Frederic Malle 2000

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 20 Comments

Hey All,

Back in December EmmaKate did a review of Lys Mediterranee and I was so inspired that when I was in Vienna, shopping with Birgit and Sandra from Olfactoria’sTravels, and one of the shops (Pure Day Spa) were offering mixed 10ml travel sets I jumped on it and grabbed some. En Passant, Carnal Flower & Lys Mediterranee.

LysMedierranee FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Sea water and ginger
Heart: Angelica, orange blossom, lotus and lily
Base: Vanilla and musk

The opening burst is so transportative, not to anywhere particularly, just away. Remember back in the 1980’s when you would walk into a restaurant and at the door they would have this ENORMOUS floral architectural extravaganza? This is one of those restaurants but located on a completely untrammeled beach and the salty air is fresh and cool. There’s a great restaurant down on the uncool side of Ibiza where all the locals gather for paella and nobody speaks English, the food costs nothing and the waters that the restaurant are built over are so clean you can count the sand grains. It smells like that with flowers.

OverWaterRestaurant TravelBlogPhoto Stolen TravelBlog

I can understand why so many people love this beautiful fragrance, and I am quickly becoming a convert. This is day 3 of wear.

After the beautiful, slightly loud opening Lys Mediterranee settles into what will be its most long lived section on my skin, the heart, which is pretty and linear. The flowers all play beautifully together and though each one has moments I think they are hard to read separately and just enjoy the beauty and serenity as it washes over me in waves. I get why EmmaKate thinks this would be perfect Bridal fragrance. It swoops effortlessly and flies behind in breathtaking but tasteful sillage. I would spray this on the petals the flower girls throw before you walk down the aisle and then bathe myself in Lys Mediterranee.

As it dries down the musk remains unsmellable to me but I do get a soft warm vanilla pushing through the flowers that slowly takes over the fragrance while it fades. 5-7 hours of smellable fragrance, less in the heat of the day, more for night wear.

BeachWedding HoustonWeddingPhoto Stolen HoustonWedding

Further reading Olfactoria’sTravels and PerfumeShrine

FredericMalleInternational has 50ml €115 or 3x10ml €75
In Australia MeccaCosmetica has 50ml $218 or 3x10ml $142
SurrenderToChance starts at $6/ml

I know you’ve tried one or more of the Frederic Malle range, what was your favourite? Do you own a bottle? Have you maintained your composure and kept to samples or decants? I love the 10ml trvelers and getting a mixed set made the decision easy, just like buying splits or big decants.

See you tomorrow,

Portia xx

BOMBAY BLING! By Bertrand Duchafour for Neela Vermeire Creations 2011

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 35 Comments

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Guest Post by Val The Cookie Queen

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BOMBAY BLING! By Neela Vermeire Creations 2011

Healing Greetings to all you APJs

BOMBABY BLING!
www.neelavermeire.com
More than just a perfume.
I have panic attacks. They used to be bad. Really bad. I have learned, over the many years, what they are, how they happen, different methods of easing them, and most importantly that I am not actually going to drop dead on the spot! Fab. Except that once in a while, they sidle up behind me, and BAM, whack me over the head. Such was early last Saturday morning. Gand Mal Seizure!! Breathe, ignore it ……..

Cartoon-panic-attack PorchiasWishPhoto Stolen PorchiasWish

After dressing I found myself desperately reaching for Bombay Bling! ) I don´t usually want any scent after an attack.
I sprayed it on, and OMG, perfume-peeps, I kid you not. Forsooth. It was sumptuous. Gorgeous. An explosion of colour. Vibrant. Healing. Soothing. The sour greenness of the mango immediately calmed my soul! Absolutely bloody gorgeous. Exxxxxxpensive. Mmmmmmm.

Colour-explosion wallChainPhoto Stolen WallChain

It enveloped me in it´s caress all day. I was wrapped in a silk sari. Safe. The mellowness of the tobacco, sandalwood and vanilla comforted me for hours. (You need to check out Neela´s site.)

BombayBling fragranticaStolen from Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives the featured accords:
Top: French labdanum, caraway, mango, litchi, blackcurrant, cardamom
Heart: Jasmine, rose, tuberose, yang-ylang, gardenia, frangipani
Base: Virginia cedar, sandalwood, leather, patchouli, woodsy notes, vanilla

Guys and Gals! Olfactoria describes it as “Happiness in a Bottle.”
It is sooo much more than that.
Bombay Bling! should be available on prescription.

See you soon,

Val the Cookie Queen

Want some Bombay Bling samples or a bottle? Order from the e-boutique in www.neelavermeire.com

Aldehyde 44 by Yann Vasnier for Le Labo 2006

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 10 Comments

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Gabriella

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Aldehyde 44 by Yann Vasnier for Le Labo 2006

Hello fellow perfume lovers!
I hope you are well and have had a terrifically fragrant time since my last post. Today I want to share my thoughts on Le Labo’s Aldehyde 44. Aldehyde 44 is part of Le Labo’s city exclusives range and is only sold at Barney’s in Dallas, Texas. However, news came out late last month that since the Dallas Barney’s is closing, the fragrance is to be officially discontinued as of March 31.
I find this sad news as this is such a unique and exciting fragrance. The perfume has conjured up so many images and feelings in my mind that, news of its discontinuation aside, I felt compelled to write about it.
Unlike some of the Le Labo offerings, Aldehyde 44 stays true to its name, and if you don’t like aldehydes, this is one to stay clear of. But if you love aldehydes, get your hands on some of this juice before it disappears completely.
Aldehyde 44 Le Labo for women and men
Photo stolen Fragrantica
Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Aldehyde, musk, jasmine, tuberose, woodsy notes, narcissus, neroli, vanilla and ambrette (musk mallow)
In contrast to other aldehyde-rich fragrances, such as Chanel no 5, Baghari by Robert Piguet or Serge Lutens La Myrrhe, the aldehydes here aren’t tempered by any floral notes on first whiff. These are aldehydes pure and clear. The effect is more effervescent and glowing than the sparkly, champagne-like effect in the aforementioned fragrances.

The opening is sharp and bright, bringing to mind the effect of dropping an alka seltzer in water and that searing nostril effect you get from the fizzing lozenge as it dissolves.  Images also come to mind of the heat mirages over searing bitumen roads in the outback or the white light-type effect one experiences when entering the bright sunshine on a hot summer’s day from a darkened room: retina piercing, hot, clean and white.

In fact, Aldehyde 44 for me is a story of white. I wore it one weekend recently when Mr M and I went to see a Neo Impressionist exhibition in Melbourne. The Neo Impressionists technique of pure colour juxtaposition and pointillism in their works gave the white on the canvas a distinct luminosity and enhanced optical brightness. The feeling of this perfume on skin is much the same.
All this may make Aldehyde 44 sound a bit quirky, but the fragrance is still supremely elegant. The soft white florals give depth to the composition and add to its overall radiance. The jasmine, tuberose and neroli are so well blended here that it is hard to identify individual notes, but their subtle nuances add a smoother, gentler sensation, akin to that of silk on skin. The drydown is all about musk which rounds out the overall clean glowing feel.
MoschinoAndreCourregesss IntoTheFashion…jpgCourrèges/Moschino Photo Stolen IntoTheFashion
If Chanel No 5 and other aldehyde perfumes speak of the classical elegance of a well-cut black suit or the nipped-in waist of the post- World War Two era, then Aldehyde 44 is all about the modern, fresh take of 1960’s fashion. When wearing it, I’ve been reminded of the Courreges fashion line and its bold, futuristic elegance. The house was all about geometric shapes, new materials such as PVC and rubber, miniskirts and also, a little white dress.
Aldehyde 44 is the perfect olfactory equivalent.
Due to its discontinuation, Luckyscent has Aldehyde 44 stocked until the end of March, starting at US$290/50ml.
Surrender to Chance starts at US$4.99 for 1/2ml.
Have you tried Aldehyde 44? What are your favourites from the Le Labo line?
Until next time!
M x

L’Eau Par Kenzo by Olivier Cresp for Kenzo 1998

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 10 Comments

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Guest Post by EmmaKate

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L’Eau Par Kenzo by Kenzo 1998

This fragrance marks the beginning of my love affair with all things fragrance.

L'EauParKenzo FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Green lilac, mint, reed, mandarin orange, red pepper
Heart: Water lily, amaryllis, white peach, rose, pepper, violet
Base: White musk, cedar, vanilla

I was sitting in the perfume connection, in a group interview for Christmas casual positions and they were testing our noses. They sprayed about 12 fragrances and I can tell you nothing about them, except for l’eau par Kenzo. This fragrance struck me from the very first moment I smelt it. It is light and fresh, with a slightly spicy edge. It opens with a cucumber/watermelonesque fresh aquatic feel, dries down with a subtle peppery warm feel.

When I wear L’Eau Par Kenzo I feel clean, fresh and summery. I have this sense of calm joy, like walking through the shallow waters of a tropical beach.

tropical-beach ClearViewTravelPhoto Stolen ClearViewTravel

It is my quintessential fragrance, so much so that when a friend has worn this out she has been told she smelt like me. I have even been snorted by a good friend in David Jones (Ed: one of our prestige department stores in Australia) whilst wearing it. 😉

It is a very easy fragrance to wear that makes you feel great!

L’Eau Par Kenzo is becoming harder and harder to find. If you see it buy it!

FragranceNet has 50ml around $35

See you next month,
EmmaKate

Here is the ad