Oudh Osmanthus (Oud) by Mona di Orio 2011

October 9, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 32 Comments

Post by Portia

Hey there Fragrant Family,

I can’t remember exactly but I think it may have been 2013 and Jin, my BFF Kath and I were in Melbourne for the weekend and we dropped by Peony Melbourne for a sniff and a chat with proprietor Jill. The shop is lovely, loads of choice and there were so many fun things to sniff. We went to the Mona di Orio section because Violette Fumee had just been released and I was dying to get my sniff on it. It was right then that Jin started to get excited, he’d just spritzed Oud (now called Oudh Osmanthus). By far the most expensive in the Mona di Orio stable at that time and way out of his budget, but he was smitten. I heard about Oud quite a bit over the next couple of months.

Oudh Osmanthus (Oud) by Mona di Orio 2011

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Pettigrain, green mandarin, elemi
Heart: Nagarmotha, patchouli, osmanthus
Base: Oud, Atlas cedar, musk, ambergris

So what I did was buy Jin a 10ml decant in a split well in advance of our anniversary thinking it would be an excellent amount to test with, which hadn’t arrived a week out. PANIC! So I ordered him a FB which arrived on the day. PHEW! When the split finally arrived I used it a couple of times and put it aside, where it has sat ever since. I recently found it while cleaning.

How does it smell? The softest, most sueded of ouds, a resinous opening both warm and herbally earthy. The barnyard is not in your face but beyond the line of some trees, they are flowering and have a fruity/white floral scent that could be jasmine and ylang or could be mango and banana. It’s heady and intoxicating stuff yet manages to retain a winsome primness, quite the dichotomy.

The oud smells expensive, and in a market saturated that is saying something. Mona di Orio’s Oud is a cool classiness, a restrained power, an elegant sufficiency but no more. Yet again Mona di Orio creates a fragrance that is less about its name than the notes combining to create a ring efftect. Imagine that you have a large perfect emerald cut cognac diamond and around it the jeweller has cleverly set a mass of tiny yellow topaz: the topaz serves to give the diamond depth and highlight its deep burnished lustre. The whole piece becomes even more beautiful.

Further reading: Olfactoria’s Travels and EauMG
Peony Melbourne has Oud $525/100ml with FREE Australian shipping
Parfum1 has Oudh Osmanthus $395/75ml (Currently $395 is AUD$548)
Surrender To Chance has Oudh Osmanthus samples starting at $6/.5ml

Want to try it? See below.
Portia xx

Photo Stolen TheTruthAboutMummy

Mona di Orio Oud Giveaway

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have 3 winners who will receive:
1 x 2ml Oud by Mona di Orio sample
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOW DO YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me (portia underscore turbo @ yahoo dot com dot au) so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Please tell us a Mona di Orio you’d like to try, or one you own and why you love it

Extra Chance?
Tweet: @OzPerfumeJunkie Oud by Mona di Orio GIVEAWAY http://wp.me/p3PURw-4n1 #Perfume #Giveaway

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Sunday 11th October 2015 10pm Australian EST and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winner will be chosen by random.org
The winner will have till Thursday 15th October 2015 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

Ellenisia by Steve de Mercado for Penhaligons 2005

October 8, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 14 Comments

Post by Gabriella

Hello perfume lovers!

It’s often said that happiness comes when reality beats expectations. This can happen as much in the perfume world as anywhere else, especially now when we’re faced with rave blog reviews or when there’s a new release by one of our favourite brands or perfumers.

Today I want to talk about a beautiful perfume that has fallen short for me, not because it is not good – quite the opposite – but because I have built up my expectations about it over several years, actually having it and wearing it doesn’t match those expectations. That scent is Ellensia by Penhaligon’s.

Ellenisia by Penhaligons 2005

Ellenisia by Steve de Mercado

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica lists these following accords:
Top: Mandarin orange, violet leaf
Middle: Jasmine, gardenia, rose, tuberose
Base: Plum, vanilla

The weight of expectations for poor old Ellenisia was built up a long time ago. At the earliest stages of my perfume wanderings, when I was skulking round the perfume boards on Makeupalley, board members were raving about it as the most gorgeous white floral. As the perfume was unobtainable in Australia back then, it became even more coveted and desirable to me. My desire only grew when people said it was a better version of Chanel Gardenia.

Time went on and then Penhaligon’s made an appearance at our local department store but a bottle was way beyond my budget. I’d go in often and spritz some Ellenisia on a blotter to get my fix of the fume and delight in the sensual, heady but very playful gardenia and tuberose mix.

Photo Stolen Wikipedia

This happened for a while, until of course, other perfumed delights came my way and Ellenisia was temporarily forgotten.

Fast forward to last year. I had just moved to Melbourne and I am out of work. Again, a bottle of Penhaligon’s is too expensive and out of my reach. Again, I covet it more than anything.

A couple of months ago, I finally pull the trigger. After more than a decade, the object of my rapture is finally in my hot little hands and I can’t wait to wear it. I am carefully unwrapping the cellophane from the pink cardboard box and lifting the little glass cap that sits so prettily atop a pink ribbon, I press the atomiser and….nothing. For sure, Ellenisia was pretty, it was the same gorgeous mix of gardenia and tuberose, given depth by the mandarin and plum but not too sweet, thanks to the greenness of the violet leaf. It was nice, but it didn’t rock my world like it had in my head time and time again. Mr M says I smell pretty and I do, but I can’t help feeling something’s missing. I’ve ruined my own perfect scent, I have built it up too much in my mind, building it up and up and up that it can’t help but fall short. Hopefully, as I continue to wear it, my expectations will fade to the background and the beauty that is this gorgeous white floral will come to the fore, unencumbered by the prospects in my mind.

Photo Stolen Pixabay

Further reading: EauMG and Mimi Froufrou
Libertine Parfumerie has $239/100ml
Luckyscent has $4/0.7ml

Have you ruined a perfectly gorgeous scent through the weight of your expectations? Conversely, what perfumes have you set the bar really low for that have subsequently rocked your world?

With much love till next time.

M x

September: full of luck and love.

October 6, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 19 Comments

Post by Ainslie Walker

September: full of luck and love.

I was a lucky lady during September: surviving a car accident, winning a bottle of perfume AND finding a favorite fragrance dramatically discounted. It’s been peculiar experiencing first hand, concussion and shock. My sense of smell was fortunately still intact after a big bump to the head, even stronger for some time– apparently due to primal instincts of “fight or flight.”

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

TWO bottles of discounted Maison Martin Margiela – Untitled were awaiting me in packages when I arrived home from hospital and I wore nothing but for days. Perfectly strange, earthy and uplifting, it suited my surreal state.

Margiela’s intention was to reinterpret greenery after rain. It gives me the feeling of holding my face up to the sky and it being washed with big plodding drops of fresh rain. Ahhhhhh the ultimate cleanse. I visualize fresh, wet, pounding summer rain running off bending plants, yet a musky, sweet white floral heart is present all the while. Lurking in the undergrowth is the better parts of the smell of smoking. Not tobacco. Just mysterious smoke. Galbanum, fierce and green is complimented perfectly with bittersweet orange. Jasmine adds sumptuous pretty, floral and sweet notes that cedar and musk bring back to earth, deepening and giving an irresistible otherworldly edge.

Gorgeously avant-garde, listed as containing boxwood, galbanum, bitter orange, incense, jasmine, cedar and musk. Apparently no vetiver, however it’s a definite must try for vetiver fans. A scent that rarely gets a mentioned on fragrance forums, yet for me is stand out, always receiving numerous compliments. Completely unisex – in fact my dad has already “borrowed” one of my bottles!

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

From my hospital bed I entered Mona di Orio’s instagram competition and a few days later I received notification I had won!! Completely spaced out, I pondered my weird week’s luck. The full bottle of Rose Etoile de Hollande, beautifully packaged (old packaging) was with me within a few days from Europe – a very generous gift. Named after the worlds most fragrant climbing rose species, which Mona studied, growing outside her window in Cabris, France. I had never smelt it before, yet doused myself in it recklessly. A spine-tingling, sparkling, deep rose hit my system. Aldehydic, reminding me of the rich rose component of vintage Chanel Number 5. I am pleased by the natural tones and earthiness in the heart of this fragrance. I feel as if my nose is buried deep deep inside the bosom of a red rose. Deep enough to even smell the fizzy peachiness of its just forming fruit. It is beyond than that though; with additional layers transpiring over time. Smoky eugenol (clove), cedar, patchouli and leather contribute an edgy and carnal feel to this voluptuous beauty. Eventually it powders down, yet remains fiercely rosy sparkling into the evening like a vast and starry night.

How was your September? Do you love fragrances that take you from planet earth to elsewhere in 1 sniff? Which are you favorites?

Magnum Iris by Ramón Béjar 2014

October 4, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 2 Comments

Post by Portia

In December 2014 Jin, Kath and I were in NYC for Thanksgiving, it was so fabulous and fun. We even got to do some Black Friday shopping which was scary and exciting. Kath decided that she wanted to buy shoes on Black Friday from Macy’s, sheesh! Can we talk about D R A M A? That is NOT the way I want my shopping experience to go.

OSSWALD 2014

Josie @ OSSWALD 2014

Anyway, there was a perfume groupies meet up organised at OSSWALD NYC with a bunch of the New Yorkers and Birgit of Olfactoria’s Travels. There I was introduced to the beautiful eponymous line Ramón Béjar. The bottles are even more desirable in real life, heavy and cool to touch. They feel weighted in ceremony when you spritz, these mothers have gravitas in spades.

Magnum Iris by Ramón Béjar 2014

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Iris, bergamot
Heart: Violet, jasmine, ylang-ylang
Base: Haitian vetiver, sweet notes, musk

Magnum Iris opens cool and wet like the softest and most luxurious facets of iris have been blended with the cool sweet wetness of peony, and a hint of chill mountain air. It doesn’t take long for the iris to warm into rooty earthiness and I think the violet helps the fragrance to hint at leather. Through the heart I am reminded strongly of Prada Infusion d’Iris but not so austere. My nose and skin miss all except a hint of the flowers in the heart and mainly get a lovely byplay between a dry smoky vetiver and classy iris with a hint of yeastiness. Later I get soft, fluffy musks with still a whisper of iris, the blending is seamless and I feel like I’ve been wearing the fragrance that the rich of NYC would wear if they knew about it. So cool, urbane and under the radar luxe.

Photo Stolen Pixabay

OK, just chatted with Josie at OSSWALD NYC and she tells me that Magnum Iris is the second most popular in the line and that it’s her favourite. That’s high praise from a woman who deals with fragrance every day. I’m not sure Magnum Iris is a very good fit for me, maybe because it’s so elegant and refined, but I have enjoyed wearing it.

Photo Stolen PDI

Magnum Iris could easily be the perfect signature scent for work. You are fragrant and it’s really good, just flying under the “PERFUME” radar and becoming part of your own smell but infinitely better. I bet if the high powered gym at lunch crew got a whiff of Magnum Iris the change rooms would smell of it for about 5 years.

Further reading: EauMG
OSSWALD NYC has $295/75ml

Have you tried the line yet? HURRY!
Portia xx

Journey Man by Alberto Morillas + Pierre Negrin for Amouage 2014

October 3, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 8 Comments

Post by Portia

Hi there Frag Family,

There is no secret how much I admire Christopher Chong his curatorship of Amouage and think him excellent company. So when I first tried Journey Man, with its spectacular box and signature Amouage man bottle in ruby and gold I was saddened by my lack of instant and all moving lust. Expectation is a funny thing, sometimes I hype stuff in my head so much that they can never live up to the dream. It’s a bit of a killer actually so I thought it a good idea to grab a sample from my mate Nick at Libertine Parfumerie recently so I could revisit the fragrance with less expectation….

Journey Man by Amouage 2014

Journey Man by Alberto Morillas + Pierre Negrin

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Sichuan pepper, Bergamot, Cardamom, Neroli
Heart: Juniper berry, Frankincense, Geraniol, Tobacco leaf
Base: Tonka bean, Cypriol oil, Leather, Ambrox

Journey Man smells quite like a lot of other niche offerings for men, a hark back to the woodsy tobacco and smoke fragrances so popular for men in the designer genre. If GUCCI hadn’t forgotten how to make perfumes this could easily have been in their line-up and it sometimes through its life smells like it should have come from Tom Ford. I know we try to shy away from sexual mandate here at APJ but Journey Man really feels rugged, rough and ready yet smooth and cozy. Through the sharp and bitey pepper which tickles my throat just like it does in food, the tobacco that has a faintly green resinous quality and the brand new leather and woodsy burn the whole fragrance feels calm and unruffled. I can imagine a thousand would be lumberjack hipsters showering, trimming and combing their beards, moisturising, gelling, clear mascara-ing and spritzing from this uber glam bottle before dressing in their office attire in their walk through robes.

Photo Stolen Pixabay

By the time these imaginary hip gents made their way to work they would be a softly focused spicy tobacco that fades to lightly salted leather/woods throughout the day. By the time they hit the gym after work there will be a barely there, mixed with their own manly odours, whisper of the woodchoppers life left to entice the gentlemen gym junkies. Tired, pumped and freshly showered they would emerge like lumberjack butterflies from the gym to hang loudly and obnoxiously with a jar of beer at their local cruise and booze joint, eyeing each other off and making coded conversation till someone takes their physical fancy.

First line from intended? “You smell amazing!”

Below is my buddy Darren, he is EXACTLY what I’m talking about when I think of Journey Man. Darren is recently 100 days clean and his Instagram @bobbydazzler_ has photos and videos of him showing his joy at being clean and his abhorrence of wearing clothes. I swear 99% of the shots are him either standing or dancing in his jocks. Pretty freaking hot actually, go see.

What I’m left withof Journey Man next morning is a faded something, still woodsy and a little resinous. Very nice to wake up to. MMMMMMM

Further reading: What Men Should Smell Like and Non Blonde
Libertine Parfumerie has $445/100ml with FREE Australian Postage
LuckyScent has $345/100ml
Surrender To Chance have samples starting t $4/.5ml
Currently US$345 = AUD$495. That’s a saving of around AUD$50!

What is your favourite Amouage?
Portia xx

Fracas Silkening Body Lotion by Robert Piguet

October 1, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 6 Comments

Post by Portia

Hi there Fragrance Fiends,

One of the ideas we grew up with in the 1980s was the idea of layering. I know it was a push by fragrance manufacturers to sell more product but that doesn’t lessen the fact that it really works. I know if I use a moisturiser that is infused with the fragrance I’m wearing that my fragrance will last longer and often have a richer texture. The added benefit is that my skin is soft and glamorous too, so touching it is an even more pleasurable experience.

Fracas Silkening Body Lotion by Robert Piguet

Photo Stolen Galaxy Perfume

BaseNotes gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, Mandarin, Hyacinth, Green notes
Heart: Tuberose, Jasmine, Orange Flower, Lily of the valley, White iris, Violet, Jonquil, Carnation, Coriander, Peach, Osmanthus, Pink geranium
Base: Musk, Cedar, Moss, Sandalwood, Orris, Vetiver, Tolu balsam

I bought my bottle of Fracas Silkening Body Lotion a while ago online and I have about half left, it was around the $45 then and I have thought of it as a complete bargain. Sadly I can’t see it almost anywhere anymore except a couple of sets or pricey ones on eBay and the Robert Piguet USA site has them too. i think I’ll be stocking up next time I’m in the US.

For those that don’t know Fracas is a tuberose scent that takes all the super sweet, bubble gum bits of the flower and creates a fun and lighthearted blockbuster that will stop traffic.

So what’s so special about Fracas Silkening Body Lotion? Well it’s PINK! Light pink but pink none-the-less. It’s smooth and sinks into your skin in moments leaving it beautifully perfumed. You could wear the moisturiser alone if you wanted to be softly fragrant all day at work, only your really close intimates would really understand why you are particularly attractive today. It also gives Fracas EdT a much longer fragrant life cycle and boosts projection. Tonight at work I had a compliment on my fragrance after we’d been there over 2 hours, usually I find Fracas softens to a very muted scent by then. Clearly I was still pumping out the Fracas well into the second hour and that makes me happy. The photo below is how Fracas makes me feel: young, lithe, lovely and free.

Photo Stolen Flickr

Robert Piguet USA has $50/195ml
Galaxy Perfume has a 100ml EdT and 195ml Silkening Body Lotion Pack for $198

What do you like to layer in your scent wardrobe? Do you ever mix & match?
Portia xx

L’Amoureuse by Emilie Bouge for Brecourt 2010

September 30, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 6 Comments

Post by Trésor

(Ed: BTW Here’s the link to a story about Trésor in the Mac Campaign)

There are a handful of categories in fragrance which are often maligned by those whom may consider themselves connoisseurs of haute parfumerie (myself very much included) but there is one particular climate of olfactory exploration which may well get a bum rap that’s worse than them all: the fruity floral. The fruity floral has become somewhat ubiquitous and while that ubiquity can often come with a sense of fragrant ennui there can also be a sense of comfort and familiarity captured within these dulcet vapours. Just as I’d been delving into some research of the genre to further my understanding it so happened that I was fortuitous enough to receive a package from a dear friend, one which contained a very generous sample of L’Amoureuse from the Parisian house of Brecourt, easily one of the most exquisite compositions in the genre I’ve had the pleasure of wearing along my scented journey this far.

L’Amoureuse by Brecourt 2010

L’Amoureuse by Emilie Bouge

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, lemon, tangerine, black currant
Heart: Rose, jasmine, violets, raspberries
Base: Peach, lily, musk

L’Amoureuse opens on my skin with the sumptuous bravura of juicy blackcurrant, each berry positively glistening with rich and nectarous dew. The narcotic aroma of jasmine and her petals of luxurious ivory permeate the airspace alongside the citric effervescence of glowing tangerine, a combination which somehow reminds me of a smell from my childhood; the redolent aroma of a particular shampoo or other such potion that perpetuates the most splendid notion of lighthearted nostalgia. As the composition progresses the lush magenta petals of a blooming rose bouquet unfold and radiate their glowing aurora throughout the exquisite menagerie of aromas which preceded. The lambent sweetness of ripe peach amplifies the utter ebullience of delectably fruity damascones and makes way for the most unbelievably comforting drydown. A plush cloud of sensuous white skin musks alongside the delicate warmth of rich sandalwood are what remain after the spellbinding floridity of the heart begin to fade. It is in this splendid embrace that L’Amoureuse finally becomes one with the skin and exists as but a fond memory.

Photo Stolen Wikipedia

With L’Amoureuse I get a moderate degree of sillage, nothing particularly huge but by no means existing within the realm of a skin scent. Longevity is about the same for me as well, I get a good 6 to 8 hours of wear before the fragrance disappears entirely on my skin though I am certain on warmer days I may very well be able to get a solid 10. I think L’Amoureuse would be the absolute ideal transition scent for someone making the journey from wearing only mainstream releases into the world of niche. It is wonderfully elegant, delightfully well made and created with a sense of familiarity that I think even those completely new to fragrance would find very appealing.

Photo Stolen Pixabay

Further reading: Scent For Thought
First In Fragrance have €69/50ml & samples
IndieScents have $85/50ml & samples

What fragrance would you recommend to somebody taking their first steps into the world of niche?

Until next time, my darlings.

Trésor, xx.

Todd Oldham by Parlux 1995

September 28, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 26 Comments

Post by Azar

Hello APJ,

This week I am revisiting my favorite family in the Parlux clan, the boozy, amber-y, fruity scents originating with Anne Klein II ( 1985 by Yves Tauguy), continuing to Todd Oldham (1995 by Jeffrey Dame et. al.) and finishing with Todd’s “daughters” (so to speak), Queen Latifah (2009) and Jessica Simpson Fancy Nights (2010), both by perfumer Steve DeMercado. This particular Parlux – Five Star Fragrance family template never seems to die. It is re-born and reformulated, renamed, repackaged and sent out into the world every decade or so to recapture our imaginations and put yet another small dent in our pocket books. Obviously I don’t have the space to write about the whole family today so I will limit myself to the second generation – Todd Oldham.

Todd Oldham by Parlux 1995

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, mandarin orange, peach
Heart: Jasmine, cinnamon, rose, fruity notes
Base: Musk, sandalwood, patchouli, amber, benzoin

Let me tell you a little about Todd Oldham:
In case you missed the 1990s (or were still dusting cobwebs off the moon at the time) Todd Oldham, designer of super fun and funky fashions, launched his first clothing line in 1989 and was hugely successful in ready to wear throughout the 90s. These days he continues to surprise and delight us with his interior designs and creative crafts for children and adults. This week I have been busy insulating the greenhouse with bubble wrap and found Todd Oldham’s video on creating t-shirt designs with this same bubbly material to be timely and appealing.

Todd Oldham the fragrance was put together in 1994/95 by the designer himself with the help of Jeffrey Dame, then VP of Sales and Marketing at Parlux.

Here are my perceived notes: Peach and Bananas! Over-ripe, dark, sweet bananas combined with squishy peach, at bit of orange and something oudy and woody. The opening is luscious and thick, a scent reminiscent of orchards at harvest time, redolent of rich, heavy, fruits verging on ferment and decay. This boozy fruit cocktail cools to banana cream pie perfumed with patchouli and spiced with cinnamon. As Todd Oldham dries down he morphs into one of my favorite synthetic flavors – banana Popsicle. This effect is much lighter than the initial peachy/banana/woody blast but still a far cry from my granddaughter’s fruitchouli! The sticky Popsicle lingers for several hours before it melts and warms again into a balsamic and amber-y confection with hints of rose and sandalwood.

Todd Oldham, although not as insistent as “daughter” Queen Latifah, is still a powerhouse fragrance. One spritz extends well beyond my personal space for at least an hour before settling down for the long haul, 8 hours or more on skin and forever on clothing.

Now back to the bubble wrap! Azar xx

Photo Stolen manoneileen