Parfumo gives these featured accords: Top: Calabrian bergamot, Chinese ginger root, Turkish rose essence Heart: Turkish rose absolute, Somalian frankincense, Oud accord Base: Indonesian patchouli, Indian papyrus, Laotian benzoin
WHAT CAN YOU WIN?
This week we will have 2 winners who will receive: 1 x 5ml decant of Rose Anonyme from my stash
P&H Anywhere in the world
HOUSEKEEPING
Entries Closed Sunday 18th October 2015 10pm Australian EST
Winner was chosen by random.org
Photo Stolen markmontanoblogs
Anabel C.
Boris
Gina Tabasso
The winner will have till Tuesday 27th October 2015 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.
Let’s talk about intensity. When you find a scent you love, do you instinctively assume that the more concentrated version is the most beautiful and preferable? Honestly, I’m not ashamed to admit that I have that exact reaction when given the option – I have a very passionate, excessive personality. And let’s be real, parfum bottles are sexy little crystalline gemstones! However, I have learned that more concentrated versions are not unanimously my preference when given skin time.
My most recent lesson was thanks to my darling friend Tena, who generously graced my life with the soul-shattering masterpiece:
Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Oriental rose, tuberose, currant buds and leaves, honey, spices, sandalwood, labdanum, peach, passion fruit, lilac flowers
I have been cautiously testing Vero’s creations over the past year or so. Her art is vivid and limitless, and make me feel like I’m on another planet (a kickass landscape of wild colors and glamorous confidence). I remember trying the Voile de Extrait composition of Rozy, and though I enjoyed it thoroughly, I didn’t bond with it emotionally. However, when I first inhaled the Rozy Eau de Parfum concentration, it was like glitter firebombs of glory through my entire body!
I spritz on Rozy EdP and my brain just sparkles. I don’t know how else to describe it. It’s like I can see the electric sparks firing between neurons. The note list explains absolutely nothing about the aroma as it reaches into me. The notes dryly suggest that I should expect a fruity floral, honeyed and powdery. Ha! That’s hilarious, because all I smell is glitter for my mind. It’s completely new to me, but with comfortingly familiar threads as well. The balance is unprecedented. I can’t pick out notes without feeling like it’s a rude gesture.
I really liked Rozy VdE, but the Eau de Parfum version has completely blasted pure shimmering light into every dark corner of my being. I can’t believe that a less concentrated version has won my heart with such uncontested dominance!
What is your take on fragrances that offer different concentrations (usually featuring composition tweaks with different accent notes and balances)? Do you assume that the more concentrated, expensive version in the fanciest bottle is the best? Has your skin ever proven you wrong?
Please discuss below as I swirl in my little galaxy of Rozy Eau de Parfum. Smooches!
By Kilian has finally graced Australian shores, exclusive to Harrold’s Sydney and Melbourne. By Kilian was originally launched in 2007 by Kilian Hennessey.
Kilian hails from a long heritage of cognac makers and gained his interest in perfumery through a curiosity of “the angels share;” the mysterious percentage of alcohol, which disappears during cognac’s aging process. He studied with perfumers Jacques Cavallier, Thierry Wasser, Alberto Morillas, Calice Becker and worked with perfume houses including Dior, McQueen and Armani.
Luxury and beauty is the core of the brand but there is an edgier side too exploring daring themes such as forbidden pleasures and addictive states of mind. With Kilian citing “perfume should be a messenger who opens a thousand doors in the memory” we can sense his passion. He believes a great perfume is firstly a great story, which evolves into a fragrance, comparable to film making, in that a director cannot make a film before first writing the script. Packaging states “Perfume is an Art” but Kilian says it should also have a conscience, therefore all bottle a are refillable and can be kept and reused for a lifetime ecoluxe philosophy:
By Kilian Launch in Harrold’s Sydney
I shimmied into Harrold’s, Sydney to have a long awaited sniff. The shelves looked gorgeous in black and white while packaging glistened opulently, obviously inspired by art deco.
First smelling Straight to Heaven and Liaisons Dangereuses, both florals from the L’œuvre Noire collection. These contain the highest quality and most expensive raw materials in perfumery today. The goal was to create a collection with no limits to imagination or price. The scents are inspired by art and literature working around themes of love, its prohibitions and temptations.
Asian Tales collection is a spiritual olfactive journey inspired by traditional Asian folklore. The red adorning the bottles and boxes salutes Chinese culture and considered a lucky color. The silver coin amulet with eight letter k’s engraved on it, dangling from a red tassel is intended to bring success to the fragrance wearer. I smelt Bamboo Harmony, the only citrus fragrance from the brand.
In the Garden of Good and Evil explores carnal sin and is supposed to manifest sexually charged desires. A jeweled clutch featuring a snake protects the bottles and doubles as an evening bag, even fitting an iPhone! I smelt woody In the City of Sin, floral Good Girl Gone Bad and floral oriental Forbidden Games.
The most recent released collection, Addictive State of Mind nods to the highs of olfactive dependence and give a sense of escapism. Containing ingredients such as coffee, tobacco and sugar Intoxicated, Light My Fire and Smoke for the Soul are all classed as wood fragrances and are all so tempting!! The packaging is a heavy and solid keepsake and reminiscent of a vintage cigar box.
Have you been down to experience the collections? Have you tried them before? Tell me some stories of your encounters with By Kilian brand!!
In one of the packs my mate Lesley of L’Occitane gave me recently was a bottle of L’Occitane Shea Fabulous Oil. Currently I am working my way towards the end of a couple of my bottles of moisturiser and I wanted to finish one before starting something new, well I did finish the Amouage Epic Body Lotion and am on my last couple of pumps of Sanctuary Kyphi Shea Almond Body Lotion so I thought, “What The Hell”. Let’s give this guy a squirt.
L’Occitane Shea Fabulous Oil
This stuff glides on so smoothly and the smell is unbelievably good. I get a great gush of lovely carrot/iris, some deeply warming resins, some vanilla and maybe tonka and a hushed wash of some flower that could be ylang and some other bits & pieces I recognise but can’t name. What I can tell you is that I smell AH MAY ZING! My skin is heavenly to touch and it feels like I have either talc or silicone sprayed on me, so soft and supple my hands just glide over me even a couple of hours later.
L’Occitane Shea Fabulous Oil has this nutty, tropical vibe but it’s also creamy sandalwood and cacao sweet. It’s so complex and utterly enthralling. Basically I have been sat here between typing with my hands on opposite shoulders and elbows lifted to the ceiling so I am engulfed by fragrant flesh. It’s not comnfortable for long but the smell is too good to miss a second of it. You won’t need fragrance, L’Occitane Shea Fabulous Oil is enough.
Edited from L’OCCITANE and Press Release: Shea Fabulous Oil is a hair and body oil that helps to add moisture to the skin and leave hair softer and shinier. The Fabulous Oil combines Shea oil with 2 rare plant oils from Africa (baobab and desert date palm), sunflower, carrot seed and 5 per cent shea oil to help give a subtle satin finish to the skin. The oil has a lightweight formula that is absorbed easily and does not leave any oily residue.
Shea Butter is an ideal beauty ingredient, used by women in Sub-saharan Africa to help nourish and protect their skin and hair. L’OCCITANE uses shea butter from Burkina Faso, harvested in a sustainable and fair trade partnership with the women who produce it.
It’s rare for me to say you need a product in your life but this is $45 so well spent, when I’m done with this bottle I will happily pay Full Retail to replace it.
There was a time when perfumers didn’t need to say their products were all natural. Perfumes back in the day used natural ingredients because we didn’t have all the aroma chemicals we do today. If a perfume smelled of roses it was because it contained rose. Today’s natural perfumers carry on that tradition and some, I must say, do it better than others. I usually don’t gravitate towards naturals for a variety of reasons but once in a while one catches my attention.
I recently received a sample of Honey and was pleasantly surprised it. It has decent longevity and is sweet and a little skanky. Perfumer Laurie Stern of Velvet and Sweet Pea Purrfumery has created one of those really good natural perfumes and a classic, sexy scent with Honey.
Honey is a perfume that conjures up vintage perfumes in my mind. When I first tried it it reminded me of something I imagine one of the ladies on Downton Abbey would wear. It smells full and rich. While I wouldn’t say it smells old fashioned I think you’d have to appreciate perfumes along the lines of Bal a Versailles to appreciate Honey. In one of the episodes of the Downton Abbey Lady Mary spills perfume on her bedroom rug. She describes the end result as smelling like a tart’s boudoir. That’s Honey to me. It smells pretty but there’s that underlying impression that this pretty girl may have a naughty side.
A lot of natural fragrances have a rough, unfinished feel to them with little development. Honey doesn’t smell like that to me. While I can detect orange blossom and spices the rest of the notes meld together to create a full, plush bouquet. The roses here are not sour or metallic but more like those big fluffy, old fashioned roses. Opulent comes to mind. The honey note along with pink grapefruit gives it a sexy little twist.
I only had a few drops to test but I could imagine this one packs a punch if sprayed lavishly. You don’t need much and I think a little would go a long way with Honey. As the sweetness of the orange blossom, honey, and vanilla fades the warm, cuddly sandalwood and cloves wrap their arms around you.
I think this leans rather feminine. It may be a bit much for the office. I had the husband give it a sniff and he said at first it reminded him of a woman in church (whatever that means) but then he said on second sniff it reminds him of Rubj which he calls my dirty girl perfume. So that basically falls in line with my impression too of the pretty girl with a naughty side.
Autumn is officially in full swing in my humble little corner of the globe and the mercury has finally begun its lengthy descent into what I’m expecting shall soon be one hell of a winter. As much as I adore the delightful chill that comes along with such utterly magnificent sweater weather it also brings with it a far less welcome guest: dry, itchy skin; otherwise known as *the* bane of my existence. Luckily for me (and you beautiful readers, if you just so happen to enjoy a fragrant treat or two…or five) I’ve happened upon a number of exquisite lotions and potions that are both positively nourishing and olfactoriaely sublime and it would be my pleasure to share a few of my favourites with each of you.
Skin Drenching Moisturising Potions
Angel Perfuming Body Cream from Thierry Mugler
I’m fairly certain you’re well aware of just who Angel is, she needs no introduction. She’s the face that launched a thousand ships, the high-octane über-gourmand who’s DNA runs through an astonishing amount of fragrances which occupy the spheres of both designer and niche alike. Here, contained within her fantastically celestial flying saucer, her edges have been softened and entire demeanour expressed with a sense of fluidity and grace. Her holy trinity of neon candy floss, camphorous patchouli and sumptuous dark chocolate are still fully intact but wear closer to the skin, their rich languidity reimagined effortless sensuality in her altered form. Deeper, earthier yet somehow transparent; her beauty now bound to the Earth as much as it is to the stars above.
Feu de Bois Nourishing Body Cream from LAFCO
The aroma of burning wood is one of my favourites in this entire world. Growing up on the East Coast of Canada where winters are considerably harsh and wood stoves are aplenty one comes to associate the fragrance of woodsmoke with their morning routine, the promise of glowing warmth and comfort after waking up to stone floors as cold as ice or conversely the abating comfort of curling up by to the fire in a sinfully cozy blanket and taking a glorious nap on a particularly chilly evening. LAFCO has captured the essence of these moment’s so beautifully, all the while wearing with an incredible ease and a great deal of comfort to skin which may be feeling a bit under the weather. Soft plumes of woodsmoke are joined by the delicate emerald hum of conifer resins that illuminate their sylvan radiance through the diaphanous haze. Utterly sublime.
Pulp Body Cream from Byredo
There are certain accords in the realm of fragrance which one (myself, at the very least) may develop a particularly blasé attitude toward as time passes. One such example for me is the fruity floral, compositions of this nature truly wield the power to bore me to absolute tears but that, of course, is simply my own personal opinion. Every once and a while, though, something comes around and challenges my preconceived notions. It has me falling head over heels for a fragrance that by all accounts I should very much dislike. Meet Pulp from Swedish niche house Byredo, one of the very first fragrances to have put me in this precise position and caused me to reconsider my exploration of an entire genre. Pulp is absolute divinity, a symphonious amalgam of wildly nectarous fruits like succulent blackcurrant, crimson red apple and unbelievably juicy fig, overripe and on the cusp of decay. It’s absolutely magnificent and in my opinion even more enjoyable in the body cream, which lends a most sensual aura to Pulp’s already subversive leitmotif.
Are there any fragrant body creams which you enjoy breaking out when the temperatures begin to fall?
Daisy, Decants and Bagels. A Perfume Love in New York City.
Daisy of coolcookstyle organized an afternoon and evening with Ladies Who Sniff when I was recently in New York City. She picked me up from my hotel lobby and whisked me off to Brooklyn for a visit to Twisted Lily. As much as I enjoy visiting perfume shops I rarely if ever put anything onto my skin. I have an inate fear of ending up with something nasty. Whilst this does fall into the obsessive compulsive disorder category, it is also based on years of experience. I do sniff lots of things on paper, and whilst not being the best way it is usually enough to confirm my suspicions.
As we were about to leave Twisted Lily I picked up a bottle of aroma M Geisha Noire. Daisy suggested I try it, telling me it was beautiful. We were heading out of the door and I had to make a snap decision. Pushed for time I saturated my left lower arm and left.
Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Sandalwood, tonka bean, black amber, vanilla
I read incense and patchouli too.
Absolutely exquisite it induces a sense of physical well-being. Despite the richness of the materials that Maria McElroy uses Geisha Noire remains graceful and elegant. Very seductive. It melds itself with the skin and continues to give both comfort and sultriness for many hours. Heady stuff, I cannot recommend it highly enough. I encourage you to take a look at Maria´s website. There you will find her history and sources of inspiration. She founded aroma M 20 years ago and
spent seven years living in Japan.
We moved on from Twisted Lily to a table in a restaurant, where I spent most of the evening sniffing my arm. Sitting at a table with another eight perfumistas I did not look out of place doing so. Daisy took pity on me and offered to bring me a decant of Geisha Noire and meet for bagels the next morning. I love her.
I am majorly kicking myself for not trying the other fragrances in the aroma M collection. This is being remedied.
Stunning packaging, affordable, and even available in Australia! Samples of the whole collection, both EdPs and the oils are also offered.
Photo Donated Maria McElroy
As I was talking to Vero Kern of .vero.profumo. I asked her if she was familiar with Maria McElroy´s work.
She replied: “I discovered Maria´s creations many years ago in Munich, as we had our fragrances together in the same store. And wow, I so enjoyed them. They are beautifully different. And the packaging just gorgeous.”
I kinda wish the focus on eyebrows had been as strong back when I were a teenager and in my early 20’s as it is now. I spent my 20’s plucking my brows inefficiently and without much consideration of what I was doing. Fast forward a decade and my sparse eyebrows caused my new beautician to almost cry in anguish at the state of them.
I’ve learned a few lessons since then and have a few tricks up my sleeve, but truth be told – I am still looking for reliability in my brows and am considering temporary tattooing – have any of you tried it? It seems incredibly pricy and if I’m honest I’m scared, but the results do look tempting.
In the meantime, I have a couple of great products and I practice some techniques I’ve found – I’ll share them with you.
But I’ve also found these two brow pencils, easier for travel or taking to the gym.
The first I found on in an Asian beauty store – Brow Lash Ex. This is a handy tool that turned out better than I initially expected – a double ended tool with a pencil on one end and a powder on the other. The powder applicator is contained in a spring loaded attachment which avoids that issue of too much or too little powder. The texture is good and the colour suitable for light to mid brunettes, perhaps also blondes with darker brows. Good for less dramatic effect.
The second pencil is from Napoleon Perdis, just a regular pencil, retractable, but incredibly reliable. The pencil is thin to avoid overly dark application but strong enough not to break too easily or smudge too much. This is one of the easiest I’ve found that I can use with some of the techniques I’ve found online to improve eyebrow shape.
My eyebrows are still a bit patchy, despite the past 10 years of much more considerate eyebrow management – hence my need for the pencils and powders I’ve mentioned, but these are no good without techniques. Pinterest, if you’ve not used it before is a great source of random info and brows are a popular pin.
Here are a couple of pins that I think are easiest to translate from internet to self:
– the idea on this one is to create the overall shape of the brow and then fill in – easy!
– this one contains info on plucking and keeping shape – although you do need a decent enough brow to start with for this one.
– this one recommends eyebrow shape for different face shapes. Although I’d not be overly led by this sort of recommendation, it’s worth considering your face shape now and in future if you decide to take more permanent action on your brows – basically consider whether you want a permanent raised brow look or if you lost or gained weight how your brows might change.
I first tried La Panthère in an airport hotel in Sydney. My colleague and I had missed a connecting flight to our home city. It was late, and we were tired and cross. But in the end I thought there seemed nothing for it but to relax, have a shower, order room service, and crack open a Cartier mini set I’d bought in Paris at Charles de Gaulle airport. Fun
It happened that I did not have internet access that evening, so I was testing blind.
In the absence of this information I panicked a bit because the opening of La Panthère seemed strident, almost screechy. It reminded me of fragrances I dislike including Dior’s J’Adore and Miss Dior Cherie, and Chanel’s Coco Mademoiselle. I thought I’d made a mistake. But during the night as I woke up momentarily here and there I was delighted in a drowsy way with what I could smell: a very intimate scent of warm contented skin, not animalic, but sexy as hell.
Gardenia is not something I know well, either as a flower or a perfume note so I can’t comment much on its use here except that I like it. And what saves La Panthère for me in particular is its chypre-like character. A lot of reviewers find it a chic, elegant, intelligent fragrance and I agree. Fruity chypre it may be, but La Panthère is too vivid and modern to really stand comparison with classical greats like Guerlain’s Mitsouko or Rochas’ Femme. It’s cleaner than YSL’s Yvresse and more supple than Badgely Mischka, which seems lugubrious next to La Panthère.
That brightness stays all the way through the life of the fragrance on my skin, and a few generous dabs from a mini lasts me ALL DAY. I could be extra-sensitive to notes like strawberry, rhubarb and pear – normally I hate them – and that’s maybe why La Panthère won’t quite leave me alone. I like it very much but by the end of the day I’m often rather tired of it.
Showering it off is like kicking off a pair of gorgeous but tight little shoes. Ahhh, that’s better. Looking back, I’m surprised I slept so well that first night I wore La Panthère . Like the shoes, La Panthère is wonderful to put on and wonderful to take off.
A while back I stumbled across someone’s Sale Document in Facebook Fragrance Friends and on the list were some lovely fragrances that I really wanted to try in their vintage form. One in particular was the last couple of ml of a Caron scent that was, and still is, based around one of my favourite notes Narcissus, it is Narcisse Noir…
Fragrantica gives these featured accords: Top: African orange flower, narcissus Heart: Jasmine, orange, tincture of rose Base: Vetyver, musk, sandalwood
Narcisse Noir opens with a lovely soapy orange blossom curled around narcissus. Not the potent feral narcissus of the absolue, here it is softened and sweetened, draped elegantly over lashings of musks and sweet smooth and creamy sandalwood. This is OLD! because I can smell real animal musk. Yes there are some sweet flowers in the heart but they seem to be only ornaments to the narcissus, sandalwood and musk.
Normally I wear Narcisse Noir and just let myself float freely on a cloud of its loveliness. It’s weird trying to parse notes of something that I have had so much enjoyment out of as a whole and finished creation.
Photo Stolen Flickr
The heart gives me a hint of indolic skank but nothing that would upset the vicar (sadly) and orange does make an appearance, it’s a juicy and pithy orange quite rounded and I had never noticed it before today’s wear. Narcisse Noir is much more multifaceted that I ever thought, light, shade and nuance that wearing as a fragrance just doesn’t show. Even a fruity rose rears its head, not a loud one but when I look for it after reading a note list it’s there.
Basically the fragrance then takes hours to dry down. Instead of making great changes it smooths and creams its way to a hum that just shimmers above my skin making me smell divinely better than I really do.