Hey All,
Margeaux and I are in the studio again and the usual silliness ensues. It’s great to have him give his views and as always we really enjoy ourselves.
I hope you enjoy it too,
Portia xx
Photo Stolen Fragrantica
Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Smoke, vanilla, dark wood, sandalwood, patchouli, thyme, labdanum, amber, cinnamon, pink pepper
Guest Post by Jordan River.
On ya APJ,
Scented Candles; let’s talk about them.
They do two things. The warmth of a room will release scent from the wax without lighting the candle. This is a beautiful item to have near an armchair. Some people cover their candles with a bell-jar (aka glass cloche / dome) as you often see in retail establishments. This holds all the released scent inside the glass. When you pick up the bell-jar a scent cloud is delivered into your room. I prefer no bell-jar as then the scent has a way of surprising you throughout the day and night.
Lighting the candle will scent a whole room and even a home.
A scented candle must be burnt until the whole surface is liquid to ensure that tunneling does not occur. This can take up to 2 hours before you have a scented room.
Trim that wick before reigniting. This step is important to ensure a clean burn. A long wick will spit soot into your expensive wax and add a slight charred smell. A long wick will also make black smoke appear which is not good for your ceiling. A specially designed wick cutter rather than scissors is your friend here. They cost around $12 to $25. There is no need to leave the candle burning when visitors arrive, unless you want to of course.
You may have noticed that every woman and her cat has a scented candle for sale at various price points and often with disappointing results. The top of the range is Cire Trudon who have been candle-making since the days of le Roi Soleil back in 1643 when Claude Trudon arrived in Paris and became the owner of a store in Rue Saint-Honoré.
Louis XIV, Le Roi Soleil
Versace / Rosenthal
Private Collection: Jordan River
His son Jacques entered the court of Versailles in 1687, as apothecary distiller to Marie-Thérèse, wife of the King.
Candle making image via Cire Trudon
By the 18th century, in 1737, the next Trudon descendant Hierosme had purchased the most famous wax factories of the era from the official wax provider to King Louis XV. Trudon grew and began supplying the French court and the most important churches. The Trudon company supplied Versailles until the very end of the monarchy.
The standard Cire Trudon candle size of 270 grams is around $US95 ~ $US120.
While the price point is high, the scented value is completely worth it as long as you are spending within your ability to maintain solvency or even better within your ability to have savings. I like Portia’s advice for Perfumistas – set a monthly budget and stick to it.
The trick is to burn these in two-hourly lots to achieve around 55 to 65 hours of scent. The variance between 55 to 65 hours is wind speed; a breeze in your room will make the candle burn faster. Cire Trudon candles are all made in France and reside in hand blown glass vessels. The wax is 100% vegetable-based, the wick is pure cotton; both are biodegradable, allergen free and contain no pesticides.
Let’s have a look at some of the range. Not all of these are necessarily traditional Christmas scents as I know some people have their own holiday and / or family celebrations.
Bethléem
Bethléem, pictured above with the theme and notes, is the latest seasonal candle from Cire Trudon. You may need to zoom in to read the calligraphy.
Photo: Jordan River
Nazareth.
My favourite is still Nazareth which despite repeated rumors of discontinuation is now is it’s fifth year.
This is a scent I discovered in 2011 at a perfume masterclass in December. It stayed on my mind. Not realizing it was a seasonal release I couldn’t buy it in March 2012 when it was still blowing through the scentmills of my mind.
In November 2012 I was an hour early for a meeting and wandered into World when they were unpacking their annual supply of this scent. Not one to think twice about analyzing serendipity I knew I was in the right place at the right time.
This Christmas candle, Nazareth, wafts a whisper of frankincense and billows of cinnamon, orange, and clove from a ruby red holder. Bees and other pollinators receive protection from this candle as a percentage of sales goes to Terre d’Abeilles.
Of course there is a lot of fun to be had by going to a shop and experiencing the range of scented candles for yourself.
Down Under Stockists
Australia
Melbourne – Peony Haute Parfumerie
107 Auburn Road
Hawthorn
Melbourne
+61 (0)3 9882 0662
Sydney – Becker Minty
Shop 7, Ikon Building
Potts Point
Sydney
+61 (0)2 8356 9999
Mérida $AUD115
Bartolomé $AUD105
Bethléem $AUD125
Nazareth $AUD115
Melchior $AUD125
New Zealand – Word Beauty
World Store Locator – Auckland Wellington Christchurch
Mérida $NZ139
Bartolomé $NZ139
Bethléem $NZ159
Nazareth $NZ159
Melchior $NZ159
Cire Trudon
– Tips for burning scented candles
– Stockists
– e-shop
Further Reading
Notable Scents – Nazareth
Bois de Jasmin – Mérida
Arquiste – Auckland Action – photo story
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Post by FeralJasmine
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In my last column I talked about my current obsession with realistic gardenia scents and my search for a new one now that (I can’t resist throwing this in again) the corporate jackals at Tom Ford have discontinued Velvet Gardenia, the best photorealistic gardenia fragrance ever bottled. There, now that the bashing is out of my system I can proceed more constructively.
Photo Stolen DeviantArt
While I have always loved gardenias, my obsession stems from the day after my father’s death in hospice care, when I was packing to go home and on some impulse I can’t explain broke a lot of gardenia flowers off my mother’s bush and put them in the top of my suitcase. Back home, the rush of pure scent when I opened my suitcase is something I will never forget. I think of it every time I think about gardenias, or grief, or joy. I have spent a small fortune on samples to try to duplicate that experience, and have learned a lot about how gardenia scents are put together in the process.
Photo Stolen Fragrantica
Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Gardenia, white flowers, woody notes, fruity notes
Today’s find is Fleur Blanche, by Ajne perfumers in Carmel, California. It’s available as an oil or an extrait. I have only sampled the extrait. This is described by the maker as a pure gardenia scent, but to my nose it’s a complex walk through a garden of white flowers. The open is pure lovely jasmine. Clouds of jasmine, indolic enough to make this a complete sensual experience. You pause under the jasmine arbor, intoxicated, your skin quivering. Slowly you drift on past tuberoses, maybe a little white rose, an orange tree blossoming in the background. And then, gradually, you realize that gardenia has emerged and taken over. Not a fleshly gardenia with its faintly fungal undertone of the earth from which it sprung, but a dream-gardenia, floating above its origin. The very earthly beginning comes to an angelic conclusion.
The garden of white flowers is the primal garden, the origin and center, the place where Goddess meets God or two gods or two goddesses merge and everything else ceases to matter and love begins anew. We may never completely enter it, mundane concerns may seem to shut us out of it, but stand at the threshold and sniff and, if you don’t exactly enter that shimmering world, surely you will be lifted out of your own for a while.
Photo Stolen juantiagues Flickr
As with any other blissfully sensual experience, choose your occasion. These scents are not for the office, unless your office is a lot more liberal than mine.
Further reading: ScentHive and That Smell
Ajne has Fleur Blanc from $40/15ml Roll On Oil to $195/30ml Parfum Spray
Ajne makes a lot of other interesting 100% natural and organic oils that I’m happily testing my way through. The oils can be shipped anywhere. They do have a special permit to ship the extraits overseas, but it’s expensive. It might be more practical if a group of friends ordered together.
FeralJasmine
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Post by Val the Cookie Queen
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Hey APJ
1973. The teacher asked us to research a famous person and present a project in class. I chose Andy Warhol. My mother bought me a book to assist me with the work. It was minus about 30 pages. She had removed them, finding them way to controversial for me. That encouraged me to dig deeper. Edie, Nico, The Factory, Interview, The Velvet Underground.
On October 27th 2013 Lou Reed died. I spent the following days pondering how much his music, both with The Velvets and solo, had helped to shape a part of who I am. Not only with music and fashion and art, but with perfume too. My journey started with patchouli and Tabu. (I skipped Charlie – haha!)
Voile d’Extrait Photo by Herb Ritts given to APJ by Vero Kern
Vero Kern´s perfumes do to me what the Velvets did and still do. They pierce my very soul. The Silver Fox said, when writing about .vero.profumo. “Once worn they own and haunt.” I can´t keep away. I wear other perfumes, I am a perfume junkie, but I come back to Vero´s creations every time.
Stylish, dark, hip, borderline scents. I never have been mainstream.
Voile d’Extrait Photo by Herb Ritts given to APJ by Vero Kern
The VOILES are a variation on a theme but still the Kiki, Onda, Rubj and Mito that we know. These perfumes are created in a different concentration to the pure extraits, but are just as deep and rich. They satisfy the need to spray, whereas the extraits are to be dabbed.
RUBJ Voile Featuring orange blossom, Egyptian jasmine, musk. Heavenly.
KIKI Voile Including lavender, caramel, musk. A have to try for those who dislike lavender. It is velvety and addictive.
MITO Voile Magnolia, cypress, and a stunning tuberose (which does not feature in the EdP), lemony, bitter, it is perfection.
ONDA Voile Dark. Intimate. Honey, vetiver, nutmeg, pepper, ginger. Venus in Furs.
Voile d’Extrait Photo by Herb Ritts given to APJ by Vero Kern
Try them if you get the chance. Take a walk on the wild side.
CQ xxx
The Voiles are available at Jovoy Paris, Marie Antoinette Paris, Bloom London and Campomarzio70 Rome. Which does´t help toomuch outside of Europe but where there´s a will there´s a way!! Lisa from Campomarzio70, .vero.profumo´s distributor told me that they will soon be in other exclusive shops. I will keep you posted.
Vero Kern sent me samples of the four Voiles. Vielen Dank.
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Post by Azar
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Giving chocolate, red roses or wreaths of evergreen boughs are popular ways to celebrate the holiday season. This year Olympic Orchids perfumer Ellen Covey has put together her 2013 Holiday Sets featuring fragrances that are reminiscent of these traditional gifts.
Photo Stolen Olympic Orchids
The Standard Olympic Orchids Gift Set includes three of her most popular 5 ml parfum sprays: California Chocolate, Ballets Rouge and Olympic Rainforest. The Deluxe Set comes with these fragrances as well as 1 oz. of Amber-Labdanum All Purpose Oil, a bar of hand made Patchouli Lovers Soap and a $25 coupon good toward the purchase of any 30ml parfum in the new packaging. The Standard Set is priced at $35 (easily a $45 value) and the Deluxe Gift Box at $45 (in my estimation worth at least $100).
Photo Stolen Olympic Orchids
I’m always bargain hunting, especially during the holidays. The Standard Set would make a wonderful surprise for a special individual or couple but I have other plans for the deluxe version. Please don’t think me “cheap”, but I could solve several gifting dilemmas, stuff a few stockings or be ready for any unexpected guests by simply breaking the larger set up into individual gifts. Here is my plan for Olympic Orchids‘s Deluxe Gift Set:
Olympic Rainforest might be for the brother who sails the San Juan Islands and works near the Olympic Rainforest.
California Chocolate would be much appreciated by an adult student, a total chocoholic.
Ballets Rouge could make a lovely gift for the sister with the rose garden.
Patchouli Lovers Soap is a “can’t miss” for my old (my age) activist, hippie friend.
Amber-Labdanum All Purpose Oil is perfect for the son who has totally fallen for the scent of this product.
And the $25 coupon? Well, maybe I’ll just give that one to myself! (I bet you saw that one coming.)
Photo Stolen kbaird
This week there will be 1 winner who will receive:
1 x 1ml sample of Olympic Orchids Tropic of Capricorn
1 x 1ml sample of Olympic Orchids Seattle Chocolate
1 x 1 mystery sample or decant
P&H Anywhere in the world
Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.
To be eligible for the draw just mention how you follow APJ. Here are a couple of questions: Do you ever split gift boxes? Have you tried Olympic Orchids Patchouli Lovers Soap or the Amber-Labdanum All Purpose Oil? Comment on either of these questions and be eligible to win my (Azar’s) last give-away for 2013.
Extra Chances?
Tweet: @OzPerfumeJunkie Olympic Orchids GIVEAWAY http://wp.me/p3PURw-2ex #Giveaway #Perfume @EllenCovey1
Entries Close Thursday 28th November 2013 10pm Australian EDST and winners will be announced in a separate post
Winners will be chosen by random.org
The winners will have till Sunday 1st December 2013 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.
Happy Holidays!
Azar xx
Thanks APJ for getting so on board and involved. The people at L’Occitane are so happy that we are talking about doing some more wonderful giveaways. THANK YOU L’OCCITANE!!! You are such a great company and APJ is proud to associate with you, totally generous.
This set includes: Currently on special at L’Occitane Australia reduced to $118
• 75ml Cèdre & Oranger Eau de Toilette
• 175ml Cèdre & Oranger Shower Gel
• 75ml Cèdre & Oranger After Shave Balm
This week there will be 2 winners who will receive one used for review purposes only bottle of L’Occitane La Collection de Grasse (NO you don’t get to chose)
1 winner will receive:
Cèdre & Oranger EdT 75ml
P&H Anywhere in the world
1 winner will receive:
Fleur d’Or Acacia EdT 75ml
P&H Anywhere in the world
Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.
To be eligible for the draw just mention how you follow the APJs and tell us any L’Occitane product that you’ve used or like the sound of
Entries Closed Sunday 24th November 2013 10pm Australian EDST
Winners will be chosen by random.org
Photo Stolen markmontanoblogs
Camilla, Elise Johnson
WOO HOO CONGRATULATIONS!!! The winners will have till Thursday 28th November 2013 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.
Hello Frag Hags,
Great to see you all. I thought that you could probably all do with something cool and calm after your big Friday & Saturday nights out, so today I thought a fragrance called Starry Night or Nuit Etoilée would be a perfect balm.
Photo Stolen Fragrantica
Fragrantica gives these featured acords:
Top: Citron, sweet orange, peppermint
Heart: Siberian pine, fir resin
Base: Angelica seed, tonka, immortal
The picture above is for the old bottle, the new clear bottle is below. What a shame Pacific Amore has decided to change the very beautiful blue. The minute I heard I ran out and bought a square mens bottles from one of the Facebook groups because I love them so much, it’s about 99% full and I got a very good deal. YAY!! Happy days.
That sweet minty citrus burst at the open is like drinking champagne punch with little green chewy bits of mint chopped and floating through it. It was my Mum’s favourite family party drink and she would make a large glass punch bowl up as everyone started arriving, we kids were given a beaker when we were small just to have a taste so that we felt part of it all. As we got older we were given glasses and when I finally realised that I was a big kid was when I was handed one of the glass punch cups with grapes and fruit embossed around the outside, there seemed to be HUNDREDS of these glasses when we were young but when Mum died and we had to clean out the stuff she’d amassed there were only 24 and the whole set was packed away perfectly awaiting the next party. Memories!! Joyous, fun, sun filled memories.
Photo Stolen Wikipedia
Yes, Nuit Etoilee warms up after the open but the lovely minty, citric fizz doesn’t leave for quite a while. Underneath it though comes a warm resinous woodsy melange that flirts underneath for ages before it decides it is time to take over. Like getting out of a cool pool and lying in the sun to dry, warm/cold then warmer and then dry. The immortelle, resins and tonka are sweet and dry. Nuit Etoilee really does dry down, the whole fragrance changes to earthy, dry flowers that have a slight vanilla/amber sweetness that has nothing to do with food.
Nuit Etoilee is not a super long lasting fragrance, I’m lucky to get four hours before I lose all traces of it. Soft enough for most workplaces, great for the calm and cool stuff. In fact, I could see Nuit Etoilee very easily becoming a go to signature scent. I has the lovely fresh opening that becomes a warm bear hug of a fragrance, it could work all year for you.
Photo Stolen Annick Goutal
Further reading: Now Smell This and Bois de Jasmin
Fragrance Shop have the blue bottle EdT under $70/100ml before coupon
Surrender To Chance start at $3/ml
Hope you have a wonderful Sunday,
See you tomorrow,
Portia xx
Hiya Perfumista Peeps,
Louis Vuitton, as so often is the case, have made something beautiful and luxurious. These ads are clearly the start of a story to be continued throughout the world. I wonder where we will be taken next in the magical Louis Vuitton Balloon? I hope this keeps you interested while we wait for the Louis Vuitton fragrance, I do hope it’s soon……..
Portia xx
Photo Stolen replicaguide
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Post by Chairman Meow
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I like me a good gourmand, and from my many readings about this scent, this was meant to be a good gourmand, so I went about sniffing Fils de Dieu with high hopes. Its billing as the New Skool Shalimar did nothing to lower expectations.
Photo Stolen Fragrantica
Fragrantica lists the following accords:
Top: Ginger, coriander, lime, shiso
Heart: Coconut, cardamom, jasmine, cinnamon, rose
Base: Tonka bean, vetiver, musk, amber, leather, castoreum
And indeed the first nanosecond of its performance, with that recognisable dusty vanillic citrus intro, is familiar. But thenceforth Shalimar and Fils de Dieu (FdD) set out on quite different trajectories. Shalimar, animalic and belching plumes of smoky opoponax, flounces off in one direction, loudly crying “dahling!” to all and sundry. FdD, on the other hand, has eased into a pair of Birkenstocks and has gone backpacking around Thailand, and before I could wheeze “for shaaaaaaame”, I died in ecstasy and face planted into a bowl of steaming coconut rice.
Photo Stolen Wikipedia
From first huff to its expiration a lamentably short period later, FdD is an ode to the fluffy cooked grain. Its moniker is quite apt (Son of God, Rice and Citrus). The notes read like an ingredient list for a laksa, yet it remarkably it smells quite restrained, spartan almost, with the muted, powdery qualities of rice being showcased by the other elements. Bemusingly, rice itself not listed above, illustrating yet again what a load of twaddle this notes business is, and how we should all just make of things What We Will. Rather than being overtly tart or astringent, the lime lends a certain buoyancy, with much the same role as lemongrass or kaffir lime leaf in a dish, and with a little imagination I can just detect the soapy zing of coriander leaf/cilantro right at those first few seconds. Tonka is also evident, tinting everything with a little of its caramel hue.
But all this sounds too gourmand, too literal a take on cooking, which is it most assuredly not. It’s as if Heston Blumenthal has come along with his lab gear, extracted the qi or life force out of south east Asian cuisine and infused the distillate into a perfume for the global citizen. Just to remind you that you are perfumed, and have not just finished a double shift in the kitchen of your local Thai eatery, there is a soupcon of musk and castoreum, endowing the composition with that unctuous, slightly vomitous twang. With time, FdD remains rice-y, but becomes more rosy, and is the sweeter for it.
Further reading: Perfume Shrine and Candy Perfume Boy
Etat Libre d’Orange has €69/50ml with worldwide delivery
LuckyScent has $80/50ml with worldwide delivery
Surrender To Chance starts at $4.75/ml
It is a short ride (on me at least), requiring a top-up spritz or three ere I’d finished writing a paragraph of this review. Ordinarily, I would find this pretty irksome, but in this case I’m content to reapply because it is so terrifically evocative: sweat, gods, ruby-skinned tourists, anarchic markets, decay. It’s witty yet eminently accessible. Consider me a fan.
C M x
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Post by Eliza D
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I’ve been in a bit of a rut fragrance-wise for a few months, then I got to go to The Perfume House in Portland and I was instantly lifted out of my snit. Though the two samples I brought home were not right for me, there was a fragrance on the sleeve of my sweater that had to be a Guerlain, since I spent a lot of time in that corner of the store, sniffing fragrance and making weird murmery noises that scared the other shoppers.
So, I went to the Posh Peasant, and found out that I could get 5 x 1.5 ml spray samples of any Guerlain fragrance they carry for $26 US+shipping. and ordered Shalimar PI, L’Heure Bleue, Champs Elysee, Vol de Nuit and Chamade. They arrived in four days!
hoto Stolen Fragrantica
First on was Vol de Nuit. Oh my gosh, how wondrous! The bergamot and light top notes gave way very quickly to that incredible powdery dry down anchored with vanilla and moss that is so familiar to me from the other two Guerlains that I have owned or tried: Samsara and Mitsouko (the latter of which instantly transports me to my mother’s bedroom in the 60s…she did not wear perfume, but her friends did, and when we had parties the impromptu coat room was a glorious treasure trove), but I was disappointed with its longevity.
Photo Stolen Fragrantica
Next day was Chamade. Oh my word! Lovely cripsness followed by flowers and then sandalwood. Could this be my new forever fragrance? Could I wear this to work and not feel as if I was pushing the limit of acceptance? Was it better suited for home, when I was alone with my loved one? What an amazing feat, and of course created in the era I consider to be my formative time.
Photo Stolen Fragrantica
Monday was Champs Elysees, and of all the five, this was the most disappointing. No bones, just fluff, and too sweet. Yes roses, but grocery store roses, not boutique roses…I almost washed it off.
Photo Stolen Fragrantica
Then I tried Shalimar Parfum Initial. This was the one I almost did not order. I had read so much about how it was JUST a flanker, and what was Thierry Wasser thinking to mess with an old classic and how it was made for soccer moms and teenagers. I sprayed with trepidation. First came the citrusy top notes calling out while the rest of the perfume gathered in the wings. Then jasmine and iris and some rose, but a different rose. Yes, sweet, but not bubble gum headache sweet…more precious. Lovely, soft, modern, patchouli and vanilla. Incredible. I loved this from first sniff. Great sillage! Could it be the one?
Photo Stolen Fragrantica
But I still had one more to go: L’Heure Bleue. I chose this because it is a classic, and because of the line in the Bond Movie about it…
I sprayed it on after arriving home from work. Immediately I knew this was not the same as the others, but still somehow similar. Licorice topnotes warm and balmy from the start, it deepened as I wore it with neroli and tuberose taking main stage. I was swept away to a place where the air is thick with fragrance all the day long, this is an after the hot tub fragrance, a bundle up in fur in winter and dream of longer days fragrance.
I am so grateful to Guerlain for continuing the art of perfumery through the years. Perfumery is divine. I am blessed. And I am wearing Shalimar PI.
Eliza D
Australian Perfume Junkies 