Guess by Marciano by Barbara Zoebelein for Guess 2007

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Post by Portia

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Hello Frag Heads,

You know when you’re going through your fragrances and trying to find stuff to add to your sale doc? You come across something that you can not remember smelling, or the smell of, from when you got it and it’s sat there unloved ever since. You spritz and WOW!!! All of a sudden your searching comes to a swoon filled halt and….

Guess (Woman) by Marciano by Guess 2007

Guess by Marciano by Barbara Zoebelein

Guess Woman By Marciano Guess FragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Star fruit, Curacao orange liquor, grapefruit, cardamom
Heart: Peony, pink honeysuckle, jasmine
Base: Vanilla, musk, woody accords

Guess Woman by Marciano is really crunchy and chewy vanilla toffee and amber with a wash of florals piping high above in descant and a fun citrus buzz murmuring in between. It lasts really well and once the sweet citrus booze burns off you are left with a wonderful toffee and vanilla ice cream style floriental. Wearing it the last few days I have not gone a group without a frag compliment, it’s uncanny. Every time I do something new someone asks what my fragrance is or says I smell really nice.

And I CAN’T GET ENOUGH!!

Yes, it seems for this tiny moment in time I have found a new favourite. There are stages where Guess by Marciano could be a caramel aquatic. I know. It sounds disgusting but the thing is. It’s fabulous. I’m enjoying it’s initial spritz, it develops nicely and ends on a sweet woodsy nothings whisper about 5 hours later. What’s not to love?

Guess by Marciano Caramel_Toffee_Squares Food NetworkFood Network

Further reading: Pop Sugar
FragranceNet has $21/100ml before Coupon

I can’t stop spritzing myself with Guess by Marciano. There is a room with some of the world’s most expensive, celebrated and lavish fragrances and I keep spritzing a $20 bargain bin wonder. Hilarious.

What have you fallen madly in love with that’s bargain bin?
Portia xx

 

Camellia Perfume by Maria McElroy for Aroma M Perfumes 2014

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Post by Robert Herrmann

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“I can just hear my General now. “Why Hatsumomo. You used to smell of jasmine… What’s this new perfume…?” – Memoirs Of A Geisha 1999

When Aroma M, already a well established perfume line, introduced Camellia Face Oil and Hair Oil, a true icon of modern niche perfumery was born. Quickly becoming the favorite of chi chi clients worldwide and after many requests, perfumer Maria McElroy released the Extrait (Perfume) in 2014 and I for one could not be happier!

Having already fallen head-over-heels for her new limited edition “Voluptuous Nostalgia” (totally full-bottle worthy. Or two.), when I spotted the Camellia Perfume in LA’s Scent Bar/ Luckyscent a few weeks ago, all it took was one dab and BOOM!

Take my money…PLEASE!!

Camellia Perfume by Aroma M Perfumes 2014

Camellia Perfume by Maria McElroy

Camellia Aroma M Fragrantica

Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Jasmine, gardenia, neroli, geranium, rose, frankincense, camellia

A white floral contemporary masterpiece with a whopping 30% fragrance to oil ratio, Camellia Perfume opens on my skin with a huge blast of creamy jasmine, gardenia, and neroli, indolic but not overwhelming and absolutely gorgeous! But Camellia is the diva here, and makes a sweeping entrance within 10 minutes, fresh yet a bit dusty, with a scent like no other.

When I was a kid growing up north of San Francisco, my mother planted Camellia bushes wherever she could find a patch of dirt. Now to be honest, I don’t have a scent memory of those gorgeous blooms, all I remember is getting a nose-full of tiny ants which love the flowers, when I went to sniff them on the bush. Pink, white, variegated, we had them all and there was always a shallow dish of water somewhere in the house full of the placid floating flowers.

If I had known they would smell like this, I would’ve paid better attention!

Camellia Perfume by Aroma M Robert HerrmannPhoto Donated Robert Herrmann

There’s geranium in there as well, never overshadowing the Camellia, with all the notes resting and supported by a soft base of frankincense. Like I said, gorgeous! Slightly reminiscent of the very BEST of the Chanel and Guerlain florals that seem to have somehow merged to produce a love-child…a softer yet potent and beautifully blended white floral.
THE white floral.
Yup. It’s THAT good. But that shouldn’t be a surprise to you given Maria’s other creations in the Geisha line. Trust me, you want this one. I’ll just say in advance, you’re welcome.

And it lasts and lasts, which is some-kind-of-wonderful for an all natural perfume.

geisha-439322_960_720

Further reading: EauMG and Eyeliner On A Cat
LuckyScent have $150/7ml extrait + Samples

Oh….and I should mention that it passed the ultimate spouse litmus test… “Wow, what is that? You smell amazing!”

Amazing indeed.

Do you have a favorite Aroma M scent? If so which one?

Gri Gri Fragrances: Esxence 2016 Discovery + GIVEAWAY

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Post by Val the Cookie Queen

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Anaïs Biguine is the creator and nose behind the rather lovely Jardin d’Écrivains perfume house. The three Gri Gri fragrances are her latest creations. I have been wearing them for the last couple of weeks and feel them well worthy of some attention. The stand stood out beautifully at the Esxence. The ladies were professional, knowledgeable and extremely friendly.

IMG_6484

Gri Gri Fragrances: Esxence 2016 Discovery

Eau de Parfum for Tattooed Skin by Anaïs Biguine 2016

There are three perfumes in the collection. They each take inspiration from the long history of and geographically diverse art of tattooing. Ink as an art form, across cultures and through the ages.

IMG_6486

I am not familiar enough with each perfume yet to go into any depth but the following will give you an idea of what Anaïs Biguine has created.

IMG_6489

 

 

MOKO MAORI EdP
Tussock grass. New Zealand Flax.
Fern. Kowhai. Manuka.
Lichen. Kanuka.

IMG_6488

TARA MANTRA EdP
Saffron. Cardamom. Hing.
Patchouli. Ajowan.
Lotus. Jasmine. Agarwood.

IMG_6487

UKIYO-E EdP
Genmaicha. Yuzu. Aralia.
Daphné. Green tea.
Sakura. Ashibi.

Each perfume succeeds at representing the different artistic style, and master skills of tattooing. From needles to bamboo. Spiritual, theatrical and peaceful.

IMG_6490

Ink Free Bussis
(maybe one day)
CQ

I have a samples of each fragrance, the ladies at Gri Gri were very kind. I know how annoying it is to feel attracted to a perfume that you can not get hold.
I will pop a sample of one of the collection in the post to three different APJ peeps.

Let me know what actually attracts you to a totally new fragrance. The perfumer, the story, the bottle ………. And which of the Gri Gri appeals to you?

 

giveaway kbairdkbaird

Gri Gri GIVEAWAY

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have 3 winners who will receive:
1 x Sample each of Gri Gri Perfume (One of the three fragrances in the line. NO you don’t get to choose)
P&H Worldwide

HOW DO YOU WIN?

Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged. Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me (portia underscore turbo @ yahoo dot com dot au) so I know.

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Let me know what attracts you to a totally new fragrance. The perfumer, the story, the bottle ………. or which of the Gri Gri appeals to you?

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Thursday 28th April 2016 10pm Australian EST and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winner will be chosen by random.org
The winner will have till Sunday 1st May 2016 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

 

Poivre 23 (London) by Nathalie Lorson for Le Labo 2008

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Post by TinaG

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Hi APJ,

Each of Le Labo’s City Exclusives line is sold in a single dedicated city, although they do seem to have become more accessible over time. I have a decant of Poivre 23 which is the London City Exclusive. I thought I’d give it a run through before I headed overseas, just in case I fell in love and desperately needed a full bottle.

Poivre 23 London Le Labo London Tube Publ;ic domain

Poivre 23 (London) by Le Labo 2008

Poivre 23 (London) by Nathalie Lorson

Poivre 23 London Le Labo FragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Labdanum, sandalwood, patchouli, pepper, vanilla, guaiac wood, styrax, incense

Le Labo’s fragrance name is the note which is in the highest concentration in the fragrance, and the number the count of ingredients it contains. In this case, we have Poivre (pepper) and 23 notes.

One of the challenges I find with Poivre 23 is that it gives me olfactory fatigue very easily. The effect of this is that it appears to chop and change on each wearing, sometimes non-existent, other times nuanced and gorgeous, and occasionally the base of incense and amber is all I can smell. So it makes it difficult to write up but I’ll focus on one of the days where I didn’t get fatigue so badly and picked up some of the more fun aspects of the fragrance.

On opening, there’s a burst of pepper – I’m sure that I can smell both black pepper and a softer more fragrant version such as Szechuan or pink pepper. After the first pepper zing I get a chocolate note which may be patchouli-related as it does settle into a green headspace. There is a bitter dry white wood and an oddly buttery sweetness over the top. It is strange to smell something which is both dry and oily at the same time, like deadwood which has been seasoned & polished with fatty animal oils.

Poivre 23 London Le Labo pepper WikipediaWikipedia

At three hours on my skin the dry woodiness has taken on a subtle rubbery note which I suspect is imparted from guaiac wood, with a resinous birch underneath it. The whole thing has a sticky slippery leathery feel about it which I really enjoy.

At 5 hours this settles in to one of those skin scents which is like “my skin, but enhanced”. It is dry, woody, musky and subtle – very cuddly and comforting. There is light grey incense in the background and the styrax is a warm welcoming resinous amber with a touch of well blended vanilla in the package. This combination lasts well past the 8 hour mark.

Poivre 23 London Le Labo Loz Pycock Follow Driftwood Pavilion Bedford Square FlickrFlickr

Further reading: Perfume Shrine and Perfume Posse
Le Labo has 3 venues in London. Two stand alone stores and a Harrods desk.
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $6/0.5ml

This fragrance is definitely not safe for enclosed spaces. My co-workers can smell it at least 5 metres away commented on the fragrance (complimented each time, thankfully). Will I pick up a full bottle when I’m in London? I don’t think so. I enjoy wearing it very much but it’s hard on my sense of smell – a wearing once every so often will be enough.

Have you tried Poivre 23, or any of the Le Labo City Exclusives?

Till next time,
Tina G

Perfume: A Century of Scents by Lizzie Ostrom

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Post by Anne-Marie

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I am fussy about perfume books because there are some terrible ones out there. But slowly I’ve built up a little library and I thought I might share some impressions of one of my favourites.

Perfume: A Century of Scents by Lizzie Ostrom

perfume-a-century-of-scents-lizzie-ostrom Book DepositoryBook Depository (AUD$28.45 Delivered)

You may know Lizzie Ostrom as Odette Toilette, a British-based speaker and commentator on fragrance history and culture: a ‘purveyor of olfactory adventures’. Her book is a tour of the twentieth century via 100 mini-essays on perfumes which ‘have something to say’, as Lizzie puts it, in their own times and often in ours. The book begins with Houbigant’s Le Parfum Idéal (1900) and ends with Demeter’s Dirt (1996).

Lizzie’s selection is not always based on perfumes which have survived until today. You’ll find plenty you have not heard about because although there is coverage of many fine and expensive masterpieces of ‘olfactory art’, there is also an emphasis on mass market perfumes which tell us a lot about what ordinary people actually wore, once upon a time.

So among the great Guerlains, Carons, Chanels and Lauders you’ll find (ahem) Climax by Sears (1900), a ‘mail order perfume’ costing 25 cents ($7 today), and Dri-Perfume (1944) by J.L. Priess, a strongly scented powder produced when war conditions restricted the availability of cosmetic alcohol.

Unusually, the book is not lavishly illustrated, coffee-table style. It contains no vintage ads, just simple, charming line drawings. Lizzie finds context not in images but in literature, movies and popular culture. This for me is pure fascination. Lizzie has, I swear (because I’ve been there), spent many, many hours in libraries poring over magazines and newspapers so as to understand the cultural context of each perfume. Her essays are not reviews, but a series of rich and original insights based on this research.

Lancome’s Magie Noire (1978), for instance, is described as ‘the wiccan perfume’. Its release made the most of counter-cultural interest in spells, tarot reading, cults and drugs. The Wicker Man – do you remember the film? Yes! So of course it makes sense that Magie Noire became an instant classic.

Then there is Jean Desprez’s Bal à Versailles (1962) and the film Chitty Chitty Bang Bang (1968). What?! But yes – remember the Baron and Baroness Bomburst of Vulgaria, absurdly dressed in ermine and knee breeches, dripping with diamonds? The pure silliness of it all is a perfect match with the faux-opulent eighteenth century-style bottle and the gloriously vulgar scent that is Bal à Versailles.

Meanwhile Jōvan Musk Oil (1972) brings forth memories of the cheesy crooners of the era, especially Demis Roussos in full kaftan and comb-over. Yeesh!

A word for Shalimar lovers: sorry, but your idol is not here. This does not offend me but I do think it odd, Shalimar being one of the most loved and influential perfumes ever.

Perfume: a century of scents by Lizzie Ostrom (Hutchison, 2015) is available as a hardback for US $26.95 and in Kindle for $15. Check out Lizzie’s website

Tauer Perfumes at Men’s Biz + Discount Code!

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Post by Liam

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My dear fragrant fellows!

Hello! Glad to be back! Where have I been in the past 6 months or so?

Well. In between now and my last post for APJ, I completed my secondary year of schooling – which included an arduous series of examinations! A rather stressful time, but, thankfully I came out with a rather snazzy outcome. People were so interested in my story of balancing school life and blogging at Olfactics that the state newspaper ran a story of me! How cool is that pic? What am I doing now? Philosophy Major!

I have also started working for an Australian company called Men’s Biz – who place the highest, most superlative emphasis on male grooming. With a desire to expand and enrich their fragrant offerings in 2016 – I was the man for the job, and began to work a week after my last exam! No rest for the wicked, as they say…

After careful revamping and curating of Men’s Biz’s selection of scents, we have introduced must-haves such as L’Artisan Perfumeur, Etat Libre d’Orange, and as for the highlight of my 2016 so far….

Tauer Perfumes at Men’s Biz

It brings me considerable glee to inform you that we’ve secured Andy Tauer’s excellent perfumes! After much demand from the Australian community, Tauer has finally hit our shores. To celebrate this monumental occasion, Portia and I cross over and share our 3 favourite Tauer fragrances.

Incense Rose Tauer Perfumes FragranticaFragrantica

Incense Rose by Tauer Perfumes 2008

There is no doubt that at times I get a touch philosophical with the perfumes I review. Incense Rose is no exception. On an artistic level, no perfume is as resplendent, and self-luminescent as Incense Rose. The rose here is wild, neon-coloured and feral – bolstered with cardamom and citrus, but then put into chains with sublime darkness. A vibrating depth of incense, castoreum, and typical woody oriental notes (patchouli, a hint of fresh cedar, myrrh and orris) provide immense contrast … As if the weight of the world just disappeared.

Sotto La Luna Gardenia Tauer Perfumes FragranticaFragrantica

Sotta La Luna Gardenia by Tauer Perfumes 2014

The recipe for this fragrance is, to me, as follows:
Construct an illusionary, hyper-real gardenia flower with an unctuous creaminess by the way of vanilla, and hints of jasmine, rose, and warm tonka bean. At once mossy, strikingly green, and paradoxically spicy and fresh – the whole spectrum – and then, most ingeniously, cover this beautifully constructed gardenia in metallic space dust. It’s a gardenia with a strange twinkle. Out of this world.

L`Air du Desert Marocain Tauer Perfumes FragranticaFragrantica

L’Air du Desert Marocain by Tauer Perfumes 2005

The real question is, who doesn’t know this fragrance?
This is a fragrance that is everywhere and nowhere on the skin – it melts into something that seems to always be just out of reach. A soft sandstorm of dry spice lead with coriander seed and amber, a cloudless sky (the purity of incense), a warm gust felt in the cool shade (cedar, vanilla). L’Air isn’t just a fragrance. It’s a story that needs to be worn.

Please, come check out Men’s Biz
Check out Portia’s Post on Olfactics

Men’s Biz Discount Code!

A little gift for Australian readers – a coupon code from Men’s Biz. Just enter ‘APJ’ at the checkout.

… and of course, my question for you. What is Tauer’s most magical fragrance?

Liam

Ames Soeurs by Joya + The Book Of Lost Fragrances by M.J.Rose 2012 + GIVEAWAY

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Post by Portia

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Hi there Fumies!

Something I find quite a few frag heads also love is reading, we are sensualists and love to dream. Today I’m looking at a fragrance inspired by a book, a book I enjoyed immensely. It’s a fun, fast paced thriller style pot boiler that has a very generous smattering of perfume and perfumer inside knowledge. Always nice to combine two loves.

Ames Soeurs by Joya 2012

JOYA Âmes Sœurs Net a Porter

Net-A-Porter

Net-A-Porter gives these featured accords:
Top: Tamarind, Grapefruit, Cypress
Heart: Rose Bulgar, Ginger, Orange Blossom
Base: Cedarwood, Incense, Amber, Sweet Musk

Ames Soeurs opens on me as a soft citrus and white flower, lightly laconic and breathy but not overly. It’s a mild mannered fragrance that is pretty and sweet, but not in a confectionary sense. Though I become less able to smell it after about an hour it has good projection and people notice it on me and comment favourably. The orange blossom and amber are the stars of the show for me and I could imagine Ames Sours becoming a popular go-to scent for someone who likes to smell nice but doesn’t want to smell overly perfumy. It shares a mood with such light and lovelies as La Chasse aux Papillons by L`Artisan Perfumer, Guerlain’s Aqua Allegorias and some of the Heeley fragrances.
Lasting power is excellent for a natural fragrance and I would never have guessed it to be one by the smell.
Net-A-Porter has $40/10ml roll on

The Book of Lost Fragrances by M.J.Rose 2012

The Book of Lost Fragrances MJRose Book DepositoryBook Depository

From Book DepositoryJac L’Etoile is plunged into a world she thought she’d left behind when her brother, coheir to their father’s storied French perfumery, makes an earthshattering discovery in the family archives, and then suddenly goes missing–leaving a dead body in his wake. In Paris to investigate his disappearance, Jac becomes haunted by the legend of the House of L’Etoile. If there is an ancient perfume developed in Cleopatra’s time that holds the power to unlock memories of past lives, possessing it is not only worth living for…it’s worth killing for, too.

giveaway kbairdkbaird

Ames Soeurs GIVEAWAY

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have 1 winner who will receive:
1 x 5ml Ames Soeurs rollerball decant
P&H Worldwide

HOW DO YOU WIN?

Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged. Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me (portia underscore turbo @ yahoo dot com dot au) so I know.

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Please tell us a book you would like to see a fragrance created around…..

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Sunday 24th April 2016 10pm Australian EST and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winner will be chosen by random.org
The winner will have till Thursday 28th April 2016 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.