Vol de Nuit by Jacques Guerlain 1933

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Post by Tina G

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“Too well we know a man’s failings, his cowardice and lapses, and our writers of today are all too proficient in exposing these… but we stood in need of one to tell us how a man may be lifted far above himself by his sheer force of will.” Preface – Vol de Nuit. Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, 1931.

Vol de Nuit by Jacques Guerlain for Guerlain 1933

Vol de Nuit Guerlain FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, galbanum, petit grain
Heart: Jasmine, daffodil, spices
Base: Earthy woods, iris, vanilla, amber, woodsy notes.

What powers you on, to reach beyond what you thought was possible?

The heartbreakingly beautiful night-scape slides silently below. The endless shades of silver and midnight blue, white mountain peaks and low clouds reflecting the half-moonlight, the never-changing stars lost to the deep horizon. Flying feels like a time outside time, meditative, reflective, but never quite lonely as there is always that presence of the person who is so often in your thoughts, close enough to be at your shoulder but in reality so very far away.

Who brings your thoughts home?

Back in an age where air travel was in its infancy, the activity of night flight (vol de nuit) was much more immediate. Surrounded by dinky light globes, basic electrics and feeling every bump & jolt of the aircraft, night navigation was a treacherous task at best of times and drew on the absolute strength of spirit of the pilot. The 1931 novel Vol de Nuit, on which Guerlain based its fragrance by the same name, finds our heroic-hearted pilot flying through heavy clouds and raging winds of an unpredicted cyclonic storm – all distances skewed, fuel is ebbing, location is unknown and any minute all could be so easily lost.

Photo - Amarah Tabbaa - source  bottle that Tinas sample came fromPhoto Donated Amarah Tabbah

Where does the heart’s comfort lie when the end is looming?

Spring. The rich earth of the garden bed outside the small country cottage has been recently turned, but the rebellious daffodils and irises are sprouting directly from the edges of the lawn. On the warm air is the intoxicating scent of sweet jasmine. Wandering inside, the kitchen hearth is still smouldering, bringing a warm amber glow the room. On the rustic wooden table sits an old resinous wooden bowl, holding a few oranges and bumpy skinned lemons.

But…there is a feeling that someone has just been here, the swish of an apron, a laugh, the trail of gentle vanilla – moving through the cottage, the rooms get slightly darker and mustier until the boudoir is reached. A side dresser has evidence of feminine presence. A well-worn pink powder puff lies temporarily discarded, picking it up, breathing in, that musky-powderiness is like every act of comfort and kindness in your life all rolled into one, deep, breath.

Home is where the heart is.

Our fated night pilot, surrounded by biting gale-force winds and lost to the world of men, fighting with every sinew to survive, sees the clouds break for an instant and the cold stars shine up above. This is his one impossible chance at freedom, at reaching home and the person who holds his heart. He turns the plane, up and up, and with all his might and sheer force of will aims straight for those stars….

Surrender To Chance has Vol de Nuit samples starting at $3/ml

TinaG x

ime Natural Perfume: First Birthday Celebration!!

WOW!!

Tonia from ime Natural Perfumes<<<JUMP got in touch this week and they are having a great GWP (Gift With Purchase) for the FIRST BIRTHDAY WEEK! We did a story about ime Natural Perfumes a while back on APJ and I fell madly in love with Erato, buying a bottle that has disappeared, all gone because I really enjoyed it and was spritzing with abandon (30ml in 6 months is pretty quick for a perfumista).

The GWP today is excellent. Who doesn’t need something in their bag to hold frags?

Go have a squiz.
Portia xx

HAPPY BIRTHDAY ime Natural Perfumes

ime Natural Perfume: First Birthday Celebration!!

Ime Promo Graphic for webPhoto Stolen ime Natural Perfume

The promo details are as follows:
- Free Gift with any purchase
- Limit 3 gifts per order
- gift valued at $26.00
- offer valid Fri 29th Aug – Fri 5th Sept
(Excl. individual 5ml bottles. AU residents only)
Gift – These very cool key purses are made totally of washable paper, that’s right, no animals were hurt in the making. They look like leather and they feel like leather, but are actually a very clever paper purse! They also fit a 30ml ime natural perfume bottle perfectly or the collections pack set of 5ml bottles. Very handy to have in your bag.

ime Natural Perfumes<<<JUMP

Shanghai Tang 20th Anniversary Art Collaboration Project

Hi there Art & Beauty Lovers,

We have a book here in Australia, written by a buddy of mine Bruno Bouchet, The Beauty of Truth. It was about everyday items wrapped in the art of masters. You could have a Da Vince fridge, Picasso kettle, Pollock microwave. A bit like a Ben Elton book it was a fun look at the world of art, the world and snob value. There was a bunch of human interaction stuff too. I re-read it every now and then and laugh.

Anyway, enjoy these lovely pieces from China.
Portia xxx

Shanghai Tang 20th Anniversary Art Collaboration Project

Shanghai Tang celebrates its 20th anniversary as the global curator of Modern Chinese chic with a series of collaborations with visionary creative talents.

Shanghai Tang: A Garden of Vibrant Dreams

Inspired by the beauty of nature, Shanghai Tang released a captivating pop-art short film entitled “A Garden of Vibrant Dreams” that will take you on a mesmerizing journey through a series of six artworks by the talented Shanghai-born artist Jacky Tsai. His recent works include an exquisite large blue and white porcelain egg for Faberge Big Egg Hunt in New York City, which was auctioned in Sotheby’s New York in April 2014.

The mystic spiral made of round artworks imitate a hypnotic fall where one enters a world within a world (mise-en-abime). The original cinematic music by Charlie Nguyen Kim combines sounds of the East with a modern twist.

The six original artworks (Lotus Porcelain, Flying Tiger, Ginger Flower, Carved Dragon, Petrol Rainbow and Mix Landscape) were inspired by the beauty of nature and filled with colourful energy which reflect the optimism of modern China.

Shanghai Tang 20th Anniversary3

Shanghai Tang 20th Anniversary1

Floral Play captures attention with the opening gates of leaves, followed by acrobats and ballerinas dancing on tree branches, among a kaleidoscope of butterflies, forming a surreal universe embracing the vitality of life. The sudden splash of ink introduces the world of peaceful Lotus Porcelain inspired by Chinese porcelain. Carved Dragon grown from Chinese motifs of wiggly tree branches and birds on a glowing red sunset.

Shanghai Tang 20th Anniversary2

Shanghai Tang 20th Anniversary4

The vibrant vegetal universe of Ginger Flower takes you through a tunnel of birds, dragonflies, and koi fish to come together in a picturesque portrait. Petrol Rainbow set in the landscape of an iceberg with dolphins and gold fish and colorful valley. Last but not least, Chinese acrobats and Western performers work together jumping and swinging up in the sky to celebrate the prosperous Chinese New Year on a festive background of Chinese lanterns and dancing lions for Flying Tiger.

Shanghai Tang 20th Anniversary5

Shanghai Tang 20th Anniversary6

The Jacky Tsai x Shanghai Tang collaboration inspired a limited edition capsule collection of apparel and accessories for women and men. These include the traditional qipao dresses, box clutches, cashmere shawls, porcelain dining set, home products, iPad and iPhone cases and even skateboards.

Source art8amby.

Au Pays de la Fleur d’Oranger GIVEAWAY WINNERS

Hi there APJ Family and Friends,

What an Excellent couple of weeks of giveaways we have had here at APJ. I particularly like the bottles of these beauties and am coveting them for my own collection. Thanks Val the Cookie Queen and Au Pays de la Fleur d’Oranger for doing all the hard work.
Portia xx

Au Pays de la Fleur d’Oranger GIVEAWAY WINNERS

Val Neroli blanc Intense EdP Au Pays de la Fleur d’OrangerPhoto Donated Cookie Queen

WHAT COULD YOU WIN?

This week we will have 3 Winners who will all get:

Decanted spray sample of
Lavande Ombrée
Neroli Blanc Intense
Rose Iriseé
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOW DID YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Tell us which of todays Au Pays de la Fleur d’Oranger reads most you and why

Extra Chance?
Tweet:  Au Pays de la Fleur d’Oranger + GIVEAWAY http://wp.me/p3PURw-377  

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Closed Friday 29th August 2014 10pm Australian EST
Winners were pulled out of Random.Armadillo.

WinnersAre LifestyleSolutionsPhoto Stolen LifestyleSolutions

Damir (via Twitter)

Joaquim

Darkrose

I wish I could send some to everyone.

The winners will have till Monday 1st September 2014 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

Bussis
CQ

With thanks to Au Pays de la Fleur d’Oranger for the über-generous samples.

Shop Your Collection Favourites: Scent Task #2 + GIVEAWAY

Hey there APJ,

A couple of weeks ago on the Facebook group For Love Not Money: Fragrance Appreciation Group we were asked to write for 5 days about frags we rarely wear. This week I asked if we could do ones we LOVE! Sometimes when I spritz my favourites I smell the first few seconds and then it becomes background smell, basically I know I smell good and ignore it. By choosing our favourites this week I hoped to be able to examine a few of my faves and live the fully present enjoyment rather than missing the fun.

Here’s how my week turned out.

Shop Your Collection Favourites: Scent Task #2

Scent Task #2: Tell us about your most worn scents.

Following on from our group task last week, when we wore neglected scents from our collections for 5 days, next week we are going to do the opposite. Wear and write about your favourite and/or most worn scents for 5 days. Portia Turbo-Gear suggested we do this, and I think it’s a fabulous idea.

Here’s the format:

1. Wear 5 of your most worn scents from your collection for 5 days, starting next Monday the 25th August. No posts on the weekend as we are all too busy.
2. Tell us what you like about these scents, and why you think they get the most wear out of all your scents. What makes them special, dependable and favoured?
3. Try to keep your post brief, no more than 150 words. Creative interpretations welcome.

Liberte by Cacharel FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Scent Task #2: Monday: Liberte by Cacharel:

I love this mad fun fizzy beauty. Imagine Fizz Wizz in searing citrus and you have a taste equivalent of Liberte. Remember having a SPIDER? Of all the fizzy fruity frags out there this is the one that stole my heart.
Often when I am unsure of what to spritz I find the violently coloured orange tube spritzing away already. MMMMMMMMM

Jardins d'Armide Oriza L. Legrand FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Scent Task #2: Tuesday: Jardins d’Armide by Oriza L Legrand:

Honey, Powder, Almonds, Soap, Flowers all rolled together in the most fabulously unusual way. I think the iris is treated in a sweet, sugared musk way and while the fragrance is not loud or BIG, it has the ability to change and charge the air around me and be completely present yet not intrusive. Jardins d’Armide is one of my favourites because it feels plush and super exclusive but I can wear it with anything,

Ballet Rouges FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Scent Task #2: Wednesday: Ballets Rouges by Olympic Orchids:

I love roses. There I’ve said it. Ballets Rouges is the ultimate rose soliflor for me. Yes it has the smell of roses on the bush, it also has the smell of the earth that the roses grew in, the humus, fertilisers, mulch, add to that the smell of the cut stem and the torn leaf and on top of all that it has the smell of life and living to my nose. Bright and dark simultaneously Ballets Rouges is everything I love about Independent Perfumery: it has not followed a formula, never been panel tested, is full of gorgeous ingredients that are probably banned in 27 languages and it has a wonderful big voluptuousness and scent story. Almost every time I wear Ballets Rouges someone compliments and asks what it is. WINNER!

Shalimar Guerlain FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Scent Task #2: Thursday : Shalimar by Guerlain Vintage Extrait:

Shalimar is QUEEN! I know it’s been written about a thousand times but EVERY time I apply it lavish, lovely, silky caress I am overcome with so many emotions. It symbolises a scent that has followed me through my life and still I get shivers and goosebumps as it envelopes me in it glamorous embrace. Creamy lemon sorbet, a floral bouquet and a vanilla leather dry down that frankly brings me undone. If I had to take only one fragrance with me for the rest of my life, Shalimar would be it.

Sharp Andrea Maack FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Scent Task #2: Friday: Sharp by Andrea Maack:

Sharp is anything but. In fact sharp is the real smell of the feeling of fiberglass roof insulation. Imagine how feeling it would be, both soft and prickly and a little suffocating yet Sharp also manages to be warm as a hug from a loved one. The vanilla is totally un-foody and wears like sandalwood, white flower (orange blossom is the note but I just get a breathy white flower) and then the whole thing draped in lovely musks both laundry and animalic. Excellent wear time and so plush.

 

AllSteele giveaway 1Photo Stolen AllSteele

Scent Task #2 GIVEAWAY

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have 1 Winner who will get:

1 x decanted sample of all 5 Scent Task Fragrances
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOW DO YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Tell me a favourite fragrance in your collection and why.

Extra Chance?
Tweet: APJ Facebook Scent Task #2 GIVEAWAY http://wp.me/p3PURw-37Q  

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Tuesday 2nd September 2014 10pm Australian EST and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winners will be chosen by random.org
The winners will have till Friday 5th September 2014 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

Michael Edwards / Fragrance of the World GIVEAWAY WINNERS

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Post by Ainslie Walker

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How was your week APJ’s??

Thank you so much for all you wonderful entries into the competition for Fragrances of the World 2014 (worth $195!!) – one thing that overwhelmed us was what a great spirited and kind bunch of people you all are – your friends sound as though they are all in very good hands when it comes to their fragrance selections.

Michael Edwards Fragrances Of The World Book 2014

Michael Edwards 50% Off Book Deal

If you didn’t win, the legendary Fragrances of the World 2014 guide, Michael is offering a generous discount for APJ readers!! If you go to Fragrances Of the World<<JUMP at the checkout Redeem Code: APJ2014 Normally $195, but until the end of October, only $97.50

Michael Edwards / Fragrance of the World GIVEAWAY WINNERS

Michael Edwards Ainslie walker

WHAT COULD YOU WIN?

This week we will have 1 Winner who receive:

1 x Michael Edwards Fragrances Of The World 2014 ($195 Retail!!)
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOW DID YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Tell us how do you recommend fragrances to others? Are you pinpointing their need and loves, or only recommending your favorites?

Extra Chance?
Tweet:  Michael Edwards Fragrances Of The World 2014 GIVEAWAY http://wp.me/p3PURw-37E

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Closed Thursday 28th August 2014 10pm Australian EST
Winner were chosen by random.org

winner-is HighestSelfPhoto Stolen HighestSelf

The Smelly Vagabond (via Twitter)

The winner has till Monday 1st September 2014 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

Michael Edwards Interview + 50% Off Book Deal

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Post by Ainslie Walker

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Ainslie Walker’s personal interview with Michael Edwards

[50% off Michael Edwards book offer and Meet the Legend himself in Sydney next week!]

michael-edwards

How were you drawn into the World of Fragrance? How then were you able to make your passion a career?

I was working for FMCG in their toiletries marketing department in the mid 1960’s which led to me being very intrigued by the power that fragrance has to change consumers perceptions of a products performance. Intrigued as I was, I knew nothing about perfume until 1975, when I attended a Firmenech workshop. I absorbed their ‘Bouquet de la Perfumerie’ a guide (out of print since 1978) that grouped fragrances, by their accord, into 11 olfactory families. From there my work developed quite by accident. I became intrigued about how hard it was for people to find a fragrance in store that was right for them. How could we use the power of the fragrance families to help? I set up as a retail consultant training and merchandising. But there was no guide asides from H&R’s book. In 1984 I released my first Fragrances of The World Guide of 300 fragrances. Older released Fragrances that had sat on the shelf began to sell in an environment where sales staff normally sold what they liked, or what was new. I wanted the industry to speak the same language through my books. I added 3 new categories to the wheel; Fresh with the release of Eau Sauvage, as it was not just citrus of EDC that came before it, Green was added with the release of Estee Lauder’s Alliage – it was so green, it was no longer floral, when Calone was introduced as an ingredient in perfumes, I created the Water section of the wheel.

Please tell me about 2-3 of the most inspirational/interesting people you’ve met/worked with.

Yves De Chiris is the fifth generation of the fabled Chiris dynasty that began with his great-great-grandfather, Antoine Chiris, in 1768. It was Yves grandfather, George, who gave François Coty his start in perfumery. It was a Chiris company, too, that employed Ernest Beaux, the creator. Yves himself, in his role as Senior vice president of Quest International, now part of Givaudan, masterminded the creation of such gems as Angel and Féminité du Bois. His knowledge and expertise fascinate me.

Guy Robert more than anyone, has influenced my work. The creator of such gems as Madame Rochas (1960), Calèche (1961), Doblis, Amouage Gold and Dioressence, and many of the early Gucci scents. Guy is considered by his peers as one of the great 20th century perfumers. I first met him in the late 1980s. Without his help, insight and introductions, PERFUME LEGENDS would probably not have been possible. For more than sixteen years until his death last year, he acted as my FRAGRANCES OF THE WORLD technical consultant. His comments and advice proved invaluable. He became my mentor, adviser and friend. I miss him terribly.

Edmond Roudnitska the master of 20th century perfumery. When I first wrote asking if he would speak to me about his creation of Femme (1944), Diorissimo (1956), Eau Sauvage (1966) and Diorella (1972), I held out little hope that he would agree to meet me. I not only wanted to talk to him about the legends he had created, but also because he was then the only living perfumer who had known such perfumers as Ernest Beaux (Chanel No.5 1921) and Henri Alméras (Joy 1930). In the event, he agreed to receive me and, on our first meeting, gave me more than two hours of his time. The piece of advice I remember to this day? “Simplify, simplify, simplify,” he one said. It’s become my motto too.

Jean Claude Ellena I find him fascinating! Now Hermès’ in-house perfumer, Jean Claude has inherited Edmond Roudnitska’s mantel. In a work of bland flankers, his creations remind us how sublime perfume can be.

Luca Turin because no one writes more eloquently about perfume. His original book, Parfums. Le guide is for me a ‘bible’. I adore him.

What trends in fragrance can we look forwards to seeing over the next 2 years? Men’s/women’s/niche etc?

We live in rapidly changing times, in that old perfumeries are closing due to IFRA restrictions, on the other hand we have the golden age of new molecular perfumes on the horizon. The explosion of niche will lead to increased creativity – there will be many interesting developments, for example we have already seen Tom Ford and Editions de parfum come from this.

What are you working on at the moment?

Books
• I am reediting and updating Perfume Legends, for release in 2016 – I have added Fracas – Robert Piguet, Feminite Du Bois – Serge Lutens, Flower-Kenzo, Coco Mademoiselle – Chanel and Jean Paul Gaultier
• Fragrances of the world 2015 is due for release soon, with 1400 new fragrances added
• I am interviewing the great American perfumers for my new book American Legends – I have completed 95% of the interviews, but no release date as of yet.
Projects
• I am also working on the Nuance Fragrance Wheel installations in a number of airports across Europe
• I shall be presenting a Saudi Arabian education programme to the press in Jeddah on September 8, dedicated to enriching the olfactory experience with a deeper understanding of international fragrances

What is your connection to Australia?

Well my wife is from Australia, thus I have an emotional connection to Australia. It is the country that let me experiment and learn to make it understandable for people to talk about, and sell perfumes. I trained 30 000 staff in Australia. It was Australian retailers who gave me the chance to create the books and train their staff.

Where do you spend the rest of your year, and what are the highlights?

• In October I go to Cannes for the Duty Free & Travel Retail Premium Event: TFWA World Exhibition –a 4 day show of all new brands- I am there from 8 am to 11 pm seeing a different brand every 30 minutes
• Fragranze in Florence in September
• Esxence in Milan
• NYC I go 2 times a year – I visit all the brands like Bond No 9, Ralph Lauren, Estee Lauder and Victoria’s Secret. I also go to all the perfumers, evaluating, such as Robertet, Drom and Firmenich

Michael Edwards Ainslie walker

Can you suggest fragrances EVERYONE should ensure they experience and why they are of importance?

• Jicky – Guerlain 1889 was the first to turn perfume into an art, not just an imitation of nature
L’Heure Bleue - Guerlain 1912 was a miracle
Eau Sauvage - Dior – transformed 200 years of Eau De Colognes into something fresher and longer lasting
• Feminite De Bois – Serge Lutens– brilliant and original
Terre d’Hermes – Hermes
Portrait of a Lady- Frederic Malle Editions de parfums was a miracle, and one of the most expensive juices on the market being high concentration of 50% perfume.

Are you documenting everything and writing your autobiography to release at some point?I for one would love to read it. Michael was quick to reply and gently say “I have been asked before, and I have always been reluctant to speak of myself, avoiding personal things, including my own opinions. What good is that – for me to tell my favorite or most disliked perfumes? This serves no purpose. I am independent, and thus able to work with all the brands. “The perfumes are the stars, I am not the star – there is enough pomposity in the world today without me joining in”

Michael Edwards 50% Off Book Deal

If you didn’t win, the legendary Fragrances of the World 2014 guide, Michael is offering a generous discount for APJ readers!! If you go to Fragrances Of the World<<JUMP at the checkout Redeem Code: APJ2014 Normally $195, but until the end of October, only $97.50

Michael Edwards In Sydney

On September 4th Sydney Perfume Lovers will meet with Michael Edwards in Potts Point to hear an in-depth interview with Michael, led by Catherine and Clayton Ilolahia from What Men Should Smell Like. – there are still a few spaces left!

Ainslie Walker x

Jean Paul Gaultier for Lindex Fall Winter 2014 Ad Campaign

Ok Fashionistas,

When I was studying fashion, and after, one of my favourite designers was Jean Paul Gaultier. His fun, sexy, silly and naughty street to couture ranges would always make me smile. When I moved to London in the mid 1990s I went a little crazy on the Gaultier. I had a cow print skivvy in cashmere, some navy blue stirrup tights with huge JPG badge appliques, a stripy very low v necked striped midriff top and a couple of belts. It looks like he has brought all his signature fun and nautical signatures into this Lindex range. Great to see him back on board.

Jean Paul Gaultier for Lindex Fall Winter 2014 Ad Campaign

I grabbed this piece from my fave fashion image crew: art8amby

Jean Paul Gaultier for Lindex Fall Winter 2014 Ad Campaign1 Jean Paul Gaultier for Lindex Fall Winter 2014 Ad Campaign2 Jean Paul Gaultier for Lindex Fall Winter 2014 Ad Campaign3

 

 

Pink Gardenia by Dawn Spencer Hurwitz for DSH Perfumes review

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Post by FeralJasmine

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Some of my earliest memories of growing up in Louisiana involve gardenias. My mother had a big bush in the front yard, and I can recall at about age 4 moving nearer to an open flower, then away, then closer again, testing the scent at different distances. Sheer bliss. True gardenia scents are still my favorite, and I want them realistic. Accordingly, I am a sucker for any gardenia scent that comes along. At least, for sampling. I have finally learned that over 90% of them are major disappointments, and I no longer EVER blind-buy bottles of new gardenia perfumes. I think I have gotten most of my gardenia errors to new homes, but there may still be a few in the back of the closet, silently mocking my gullibility.

Pink Gardenia by Dawn Spencer Hurwitz for DSH Perfumes

My Gardenia Fetish part III: DSH Pink Gardenia

Pink Gardenia DSH Perfumes FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot
Heart: Gardenia, tuberose
Base: Ambergris and musk

No doubt I will continue to sample new gardenia scents as they emerge, but there are a few favorites that I regularly wear and count on to scratch my gardenia itch. The tragically discontinued Tom Ford Velvet Gardenia is my favorite nighttime scent, and in the daytime I love to float around in Dawn Spencer Hurwitz’s Pink Gardenia. She has a few gardenias, but the Pink is the closest to the real thing. The eau de parfum is a lovely soft sweet gardenia that soon settles down fairly close to the skin. Real gardenias in their homeland have a definite fungal undertone that smells a bit like moist Southern loam. When a gardenia scent seems “not real,” often it’s because the scent is too clean. Pink Gardenia has a bit of the fungal note, but it’s faint. This one will evoke the flower but won’t cause your coworkers to wrinkle their noses.

Pink Gardenia DSH Perfumes Gardenia Tatters FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

The Pink Gardenia parfum is rich, intense, and comes across as slightly less clean. It is a fully opened flower, lovingly placed on your skin by your lover’s hand. It wears close and soft and dries down to a glorious skin scent. I want this one badly, but what I want to do with it is put it all over myself, and at over $100 for 5ml I can’t afford that. Unless I were to use the whole bottle in one gorgeous binge, and oh, how I enjoy fantasizing about that. But it is lovely and hypnotic and covetable, and you can bet that it’s on my “to buy” list.

Pink Gardenia DSH Perfumes  Gardenia oom_endro PixabayPhoto Stolen Pixabay

Further reading: Now Smell This and
DSH Perfumes starts at a $5 sample vial, for $80/30ml EdP

I have already written to Ms. Hurwitz expressing my hope that she will never discontinue this scent. The EdP is my own bottle (likely the first of many) and a small sample of the parfum was kindly provided by the perfumer. My opinions remain firmly my own, especially when it comes to gardenias.

FeralJasmine xx

Top 5 Department Store Scents: Madeleine

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Post by Madeleine

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Hello perfumed peeps! I must admit that I have felt a bit out of the perfume scene of late. Being out of work until just last week and watching my pennies has meant that I’ve tried to resist the temptation of buying new samples or reading online forums or a blog post that may have me craving a new scent.

However, it’s also taught me that enjoying perfume doesn’t have to be an expensive exercise. I’ve been quite happy just going into stores and spritzing to my heart’s content – no credit card necessary. It also got me thinking that I’m lucky that I have access to and can afford niche scents. But what if this wasn’t the case? If I could only have department store fragrances, what would be my picks?
So here, I present to you my…..

Top 5 Department Store Scents

Anais Anais L’Original Eau de Parfum FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

1. Anais Anais L’Original by Cacharel 2014

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Hyacinth, galbanum, orange blossom
Heart: Jasmine, rose, lily
Base: Sandalwood, cedar, incense, amber
I’ve mentioned my love for this previously and have been wearing it happily ever since that post. Anais Anais to my mind remains one of the best designer scents on the market. Soft, feminine and graceful hyacinth and lily. It always brings a smile to my face.

Further reading: Bois de Jasmin and The Non Blonde
Anais Anais L’Original (available in both EDP and EDT) and Anais Anais EDT are widely available at department stores and online sellers.
FragranceNet has the current EDT starting at $31.19/30ml before discount
Surrender To Chance starts at $3/ml

Karl Lagerfeld for Her Karl Lagerfeld FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

2. Karl Lagerfeld for Her by Karl Lagerfeld 2014

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: lemon and peach
Heart: magnolia, rose and frangipani
Base: amber wood and musk

My lovely Mum picked this up for me on a recent holiday overseas. She handed it to me saying: “Well I know you’re a perfume snob, but I kept smelling it and thought it was beautiful. But if it’s not good enough and you don’t want it, I’ll have it.” Hehehe! I ended up keeping the bottle because, as Mums often are, she was right. This makes a nice departure from the swathes of fruitchoulis out there. It’s a pretty, demure and elegant mix of lemon, rose and white flowers.

Further reading:  Now Smell This
David Jones has $75/45ml

Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs for women FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

3. Marc Jacobs for Women by Steve Demercado and Loc Dong for Marc Jacobs 2001

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: gardenia and bergamot
Heart: tuberose, jasmine, white pepper and honeysuckle
Base: ginger, cedar and musk

This was launched eons before the niche revival of gardenia scents and still remains one of the best in my view. It’s a watery take on the voluptuous white flower but without the dreaded aquatic/calone vibe, just an amazingly pretty “wet” gardenia. I just wish it was slightly more readily available as it’s a damn sight better than some of the recent releases by the house.

Michael Michael Kors FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

4. Michael by Laurent Le Guernec for Michael Kors 2000

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Freesia, incense, Chinese osmanthus, tamarind
Heart: Tuberose, iris, peony, orris root, arum lily
Base: Musk, cashmere wood, vetiver

I’ve mentioned this one before too. Whilst it might be shriek tuberose for some, this always feels like a second skin some 14 years after first trying it. It’s a strong tuberose, tempered by freesia and lily before the spices take over and make this all spicy white floral goodness.

Further reading: The Scents of Self
Michael is available in most department stores and online discounters.
FragranceNet has it starting at $41.19/50ml (before coupon)
My Perfume Samples starts at $2.49/ml

Chanel No 19 EDP Chanel Fragrantica

5. No 19 EDP by Henri Robert for Chanel 1970

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:

Top: green notes and bergamot
Heart: rose and iris
Base: vetiver, oakmoss and leather
I came late to the Chanel 19 party, but what a party it is! An aloof green icicle of perfumed beauty that just oozes confidence and chic. I prefer the EDP of this one for its much rosier depth and fullness.

Chanel No 19 is available in most department stores
Surrender to Chance starts at $3.49/ml

So, there’s my take. What would your top 5 be?

With much love till next time!

M xx