Thaleia by IME Natural Perfume

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Post by Willa Zheng

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Thesis writing is really boring, tedious work. To get myself in the right frame of mind to sit down and slog it out, I have to play really depressing melancholic music [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KylMqxLzNGo] – and calm my monkey brain from turning to the internet for blissful distractions at the first mental roadbump. Back in the days when I was a law student, I’d read unhappy 19th century novels to prep my mind for the cerebral aerobics ahead.

As most of my personal frag collection distract and uplift me with their beauty, I typically stay away from fragrances during exam or assignment writing crunch times.

For a long time, my study slog of choice had been Roger & Gallet Eau de Gingembre. But as it’s winter and there’s a certain chilly bite in the air, I find it’s not cutting the mustard any more. I need something more robust, to grab me by the back of my neck and force me to type type type the words I need onto the page. I am looking for something gloomy but not insipid.

Thaleia by IME Natural Perfume

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IME gives these featured accords in one line:
Lime, Litsea Cubeba, Citronella, Pine, Geranium, Patchouli

My work scent at the moment is Ime natural perfume’s Thaleia []. Natural perfume? I can see you rolling your eyes. But hear me out, fellow fragrance connoisseur. All of Ime’s natural fragrances are actually worked on by a professional and skilled local perfumer with over 40 years of experience in the industry. The founder and creative director, Tonia Walker, uses her natural therapy background to create a range of perfumes that have notes that affect and alter our moods. In essence, Ime is an aromatherapy-fine fragrance hybrid. Emotion changing scents that don’t collapse or become undetectable half an hour later. They also comply with IFRA – which is no small feat since IFRA has restricted the use of so many natural materials.

Thaleia by IME Natural Perfume Sweet-lime WikiPediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

Thaleia is fresh, lime-like, but has a herbal naturopathic undertone (Patchouli, Geranium, Pine) that really grounds me mentally. The top notes are reminiscent of Jurlique’s now discontinued Lemon-Lime Hydrating Essence. It’s like holding a fresh lime in your hand, peeling back the green skin, getting squirts of the green zest, then bitter white pith, to reveal the centre of the fruit as damp dirt-like patchouli. The overall texture is oily and powdery, so the Proustian effect is like walking into a dark, candle-lit 90s-era Perfect Potion store with citrusy essentials oils burning in oil burners on the counter. It has quite a New Age feeling – which is fitting for the Greek goddess theme that Ime tailors each fragrance around.

Thaleia by IME Natural Perfume Aurora_Greek_Goddess WikiMediaPhoto Stolen WikiMedia

Very linear, with moderate sillage. Even its the drydown, Thaleia is a green, citronol, patchouli scent. A two squirt blast on my neck region can keep me working for 10hrs +. Not bad for a natural, heh?

IME Natural Perfumes have $59.95/30ml and a great sample deal

Now tell me, fellow APJ-er, do you have a ‘deep thinking’ scent?
Willa Zheng xx

CHRIS PRATT

Hey there Perfume Junkies,

Today we are taking a bit of a break from fragrance because I have a confession to make. OMG! I am completely, madly and deeply in love with Chris Pratt. He should come hang with the crew and me. Like every day, forever.

Below is a video of him being mildly amusing and super dreamy.

Chris Pratt Gage Skidmore FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

In the comments tell me what you think Chris Pratt should wear as fragrance. I’m thinking something super delicious, up to date and edible like Christian Dior’s newest prive, Fève Délicieuse. He would smell killer in its sweet, resinous, caramel. MMMMMMMMM

Enjoy and Chris Pratt Mash Up.
Portia xx

Chris Pratt – Funny Moments

11542062_829610367135268_8082876195649271299_nFacebook Meme

Les Exceptions Mugler: The Film

Heya Crew,

I was lucky enough to smell a couple of these lovelies in Chicago with Musette from Perfume Posse last year and I fell madly in love with Oriental Express and quite liked Supra Floral too.

Les Exceptions Mugler YouTubePhoto Stolen YouTube

Chyprissime, Fougere Furieuse, Oriental Express, Over The Musk, Supra Floral are the five Les Exceptions and I think they are definitely worth a sniff.

Enjoy the film,
Portia xx

Les Exceptions Mugler: The Film

PG17 Tubereuse Couture by Parfumerie Generale

Hey all you lovely Perfumistas,

Recently my mate Sandra in Vienna was having a clear out and she sent me the list. There were some frags not currently available in Oz and a couple that were on my list to own or back up. Over the next little while I’ll be bringing out some to show you, today’s offering is the first. I don’t know if you ever troll the For Sale Docs on the Facebook frag pages but here are a couple that you might like to try: Facebook Fragrance Friends and PLP Splits & Sales.

PG17 Tubereuse Couture by Parfumerie Generale

PG17 Tubereuse Couture  by Pierre Guillaume

PG17 Tubereuse Couture Parfumerie Generale FRagranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured notes in one line:
Orange, green notes, jasmine, ylang-ylang, sugar cane, indian tuberose, benzoin, papyrus

This week seems to be all about the languid, tropical scents that are both alive with the sensual promise of white flowers and sweetened in some way to almost make them edible delights. Today we look at the unhumble tuberose in its sweet and green facets. Loud, pushy, thick, glutinous and a hugely theatrical showstopper Tubereuse Couture is like a neon light burning through the evenings cool. Vivid and stark we are not with the bubblegum sweeties here, this is tuberose for grown ups. A mildly petroleum aurora that is both beautiful and toxic. The green notes resinous, dry, sharp and unsettling. How can something be so desirable, alluring and creamy while maintaining such an unhealthy, fetid glow? Caught on the very fine line between gorgeous and repugnant I think Tubereuse Couture is my new favourite tuberose.

 PG17 Tubereuse Couture Parfumerie Generale Anna Pavlova WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

The first hour is HUGE! Well, maybe not that big but you are heavily fragrant and it is incredible. After that opening hour Tubereuse Couture calms to a lovely sweet white flower bouquet and still maintains excellent sillage and projection for about another hour before going to a softer, wear anywhere, warm yet slightly green amber. Still interesting but not the wild creature it was at all, now Tubereuse Couture is a cuddly, smoochy kitten. I find something delightfully old fashioned about Tubereuse Couture, though it is all of the above there is also something languid and in repose about it that seems poised on the edge of action. It’s like wearing a drowsing tiger or greyhound, the power is there at bay awaiting at a moments notice to spring into swiftly killing action. Tubereuse Couture is thrilling.

Tubereuse Couture is a real heart starter. If you are tuberose or green averse then you’ll probably want to test this on paper or a friend before you put it on your own skin. Having said that I just spritzed it on my BFF Kath and she smells creamy, smooth and deliciously sweet in the next room. A very different ride, or maybe it smells different from afar. Anyway, your mileagae will probably vary from my experience so give Tubereuse Couture a go.

PG17 Tubereuse Couture Parfumerie Generale Whistler_James WikiMediaPhoto Stolen WikiMedia

Further reading: Olfactoria’s Travels and Non Blonde
First In Fragrance has €95/50ml
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $5/ml

How do you like your tuberose?
Portia xx

Carticasi by Xavier Torre for Testa Maura 2008 + GIVEAWAY

Hey there APJ Fragrant Family,

I have been going through a few of my older LuckyScent Sample Packs. What usually happens for me is that I try them all on my fingers, just near my nails, when they arrive and the ones that stand out to me in the initial testing get worn till they’re empty and the others languish. It’s fun to go back and have a re-sniff and it’s been nice to find that a couple I like very much and want to share with you. One of them is…

Carticasi by Xavier Torre for Testa Maura 2008

Carticasi Testa Maura FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

LuckyScent gives these featured accords in one line:
Mastic Resin, Galbanum, Rose, Ylang-Ylang, Cedarwood

My first thought on applying is “oh, this is a natural fragrance”. No fragrance I know with synthetics has this green, dark, ferocious depth. If green is your friend then this is a lightless cave by a riverbank, the moss, lichen, grass, and tree resin all combines here in a fragrance that should be the colour of a crows wing, iridescent, oil slick black. This is the scent of the young fairy Maleficent and her kingdom before it was turned into a place of unhappiness, and then again at the end of the tale.

The rose is gorgeous. Right now I have a deep red rose that someone gave me from their garden, the scent is so strong and dark but with glimmers of light and it is this intoxicating fragrance that has been used by Xavier Torre for Carticasi. The opening 20 minutes are incredibly dense and I could imagine it turning people off if they had never spent time with a natural fragrance. For me though it is totally fabulous, the uber green.

Carticasi lasts a couple of hours and 2/3 of that time it keeps extremely close to the skin. After two hours there is a very faint haze of scent but it has pretty much gone. Perfect work wear so you can enjoy your fragrance on the way to work, respritz and enjoy it for lunch and not worry about skunking your colleagues.

Further reading: Scent For Thought and IrideScents
LuckyScent has $140/50ml

Save From YouTube giveaway 4Photo Stolen YouTube

Testa Maura GIVEAWAY

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have 1 winner who will receive:
2 x Testa Maura samples Capo di Feno & Aleria. (Both from LuckyScent and have been dabbed twice)
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOW DO YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me (portia underscore turbo @ yahoo dot com dot au) so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Please tell us what fragrances tickle your fancy to sample from LuckyScent<JUMP?

Extra Chance?
Tweet: Testa Maura GIVEAWAY http://wp.me/p3PURw-43m   @luckyscent

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Sunday 5th July 2015 10pm Australian EST and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winner will be chosen by random.org
The winner will have till Thursday 9th July 2015 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

Emporio Armani Diamonds Violet ft Ella Eyre – The Film

Hi there Crew,

I am LOVING this bottle. So freaking beautiful. The notes sound like they might overload my sweet spot but I am going to force myself down to the shops to try it anyway. That bottle makes it all seem worthwhile.

The ad is straight out of the 1980s, enjoy,
Portia xx

Emporio Armani Diamonds Violet  1 FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Raspberry, lychee, passion fruit
Heart: Bulgarian rose, violet, lily of the valley
Base: Praline, vanilla, patchouli

Emporio Armani Diamonds Violet  FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Emporio Armani Diamonds Violet ft Ella Eyre – The Film

Fraîche Passiflore by Jean Laporte for Maître Parfumeur et Gantier 1988

Hi there APJ,

I quite like this brand, Maître Parfumeur et Gantier is one of the original niche houses, but I rarely buy the bottles because I find it impossible to say the houses name without mangling it beyond recognition. It’s a shame because they do some really great scents and have been doing stuff that still feels revolutionary since day one. It’s surprising how many of the line still feel bang up to date. Last time I was in Scent Bar in LA they gave me three samples of the Maître Parfumeur et Gantier range on a card to try, I have rediscovered the card in my cleanup this week and found a surprise delight.

Fraîche Passiflore by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier 1988

Fraîche Passiflore by Jean Laporte

Fraiche Passiflore Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Raspberry, Peach, Tagetes
Heart: Jasmine, Passion flower, Pimento
Base: Musk, Mysore sandalwood

Fraiche Passiflora opens with the funnest fruit punch ever.It’s like a crisp cut fruit salad sprinkled lightly with sugar and a little rose water.Without being super sweet, overbearing or outrageous Fraiche Passiflora manages to be radiantly delicious and makes me smile. Oh, and it smells great. I can’t believe that this beauty came out in 1988, it’s like a fun and flirty precursor to Angel and the gourmand craze that followed in its wake. Passionfruit, not flower, seems to be the central theme here, and everything else dances attendance on it well through the heart. It’s so yummy that I can almost feel the pips as I chew with cool refreshing gelato. This is a perfectly gorgeous summer, or memory of summer, scent that will have you smiling along at how freaking fab you smell and wafting delicious sillage behind you that will definitely be turning heads.

fraiche-passiflore--maitre-parfumeur-et-gantier Jelly_tots WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

The heart has a real feeling of soft sugared jubes, like Jelly Tots but bigger. The ones that you put three in your mouth and as you chew they all stick in and around your teeth and then you spend the next hour or so getting lovely sweet reminders of them as they slowly melt. Mum used to always have a small bag of them in her purse because giving us a mouthful of these when our attention or energy was flagging would give us an instant pick up.

fraiche-passiflore--maitre-parfumeur-et-gantier Gisela WikiCommonsPhoto Stolen WikiCommons

If you have someone in your life that likes a joyful fruity fragrance, even if it’s you, then I think Fraiche Passiflora would be an excellent next step into a real quality version of the genre.

LuckyScent has $130/100ml and samples

What is your fruity favourite? Do you have any of the Maître Parfumeur et Gantier range?
Portia xx

Bronze Goddess by Rodrigo Flores-Roux for Estée Lauder

Hi there Crew!

The beach scent! One of my all time favourite groupings and I’ve noticed that my collection overfloweth with them. An excellent summer spritz but also perfect in the depths of winter to remind you that the sun will come again. I love the Bronze Goddess line and that each year they get a new perfumer in to do their own take on the idea. I have two bottles 2008s Bronze Goddess Eau Fraîche Skinscent and …..

Bronze Goddess 2011 by Estée Lauder

Bronze Goddess by Rodrigo Flores-Roux

Bronze Goddess 2011 Estée Lauder FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Mandarin, bergamot
Heart: Magnolia, orange blossom, tiare flower, jasmine, myrrh
Base: Coconut, caramel, sandalwood, amber, vetiver

No matter when I use Bronze Goddess it fits like a glove. One little spray and my world is filled with the heart and memory of summer, if I close my eyes I am completely transported to my dream day at the beach. 28C with a very light breeze from the water and a few clouds dappling the world, the beach must have a tide pool and some excellent eateries nearby and I prefer to hang with a smell crew, around 5 or 6 maximum. Give me a book to read and I am in HEAVEN! I particularly like beaches with a grassy area behind the sand where I can comfortably lay my towel and gear and only get all the sand in my feet on the way to the water.

Bronze Goddess 2011 Estée Lauder Boracay_beach,_Philippines WikiMediaPhoto Stolen WikiMedia

2011s Bronze Goddess is all about tiare/jasmine, coconut, caramel and amber on me. While every other note is presented in a wash of smooth and beautifully blended tropical holiday it’s these accords that stand out distinctly through my wear and I particularly love the warmth of the dry down, it still feels beachy and fun but it’s the kind of scent you imagine being present while you walk along the waterfront past moored boats, eateries, palm trees and watching the sun going down with a crew of people you love or someone special. Bronze Goddess is a summer holiday fantasy in a bottle.

Though Bronze Goddess is a very fragrant perfume with good projection and longevity its very nature makes it seem light as air and much like wearing a tropical moisturiser. Though it is a tropical beachy scent I find there is a lovely fresh cleanliness (not in the obvious laundry way, though I think there is also a place for that in perfumery) that continues all day. Sensual and alluring I often wear Bronze Goddess for date night and also for times when I can feel myself falling into a funk. Bronze Goddess is the perfect foil, it’s hard to feel gloomy or blue when you smell this lovely.

 Bronze Goddess 2011 Estée Lauder Dave C Kids on Beach FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

Further reading: Into The Gloss and Now Smell This
FragranceNet has a couple of choices from $61/100ml before Coupon
Surrender To Chance has a few different samples from $3/ml

Do you have a favourite Beach Scent? What is it and why?
Portia xx

Elle L’aime by Lolita Lempicka 2013

Woo Hoo! Heya Fragrant Family,

You know that frag you buy a decant of? You know you’ll never need a full bottle but you might like to gran and spritz every so often? Well, I wrote about today’s offering in 2014 because I’d run across it in the mall and loved the bottle, which is why I’d bought my first decant. Having run through two 5ml My Perfume Samples decants and well into my third I thought perhaps it was time to bite the bullet and go FB.

Elle L’aime by Lolita Lempicka 2013

Elle L’aime by Christine Nagel + Serge Majoullier

Elle L'aime Lolita Lempicka FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, neroli, lime
Heart: Coconut, jasmine, ylang-ylang
Base: Sandalwood, vanilla, myrrh

So it arrived a couple of days ago while Scott was over and we sniffed it on him. We both went CRAZY because it’s super yummy and was really masculine on him. Quite a different scent life compared to the ride that I get.

I know, there are probably a bunch of you that are rolling their eyes or have even not clicked on the post because Lolita Lempicka is a bit too mainstream and uncool but I’d like you to remember how groundbreaking her licorice & violet Lolita Lempicka was in the Disney-ised poison apple, how outrageous to do a hyper gourmand mens like Au Masculin and how much fun and whimsy her whole range contains.

Elle L'aime Lolita Lempicka Brent Schlenker FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

What do I smell? It’s the perfect summer scent, a cool tropical creamsicle over a lovely warm base that will have you smiling along and enjoying the ride. Even here in the depths of our Sydney winter I am instantly transported to glorious tropical evenings and those crazy drinks by the pool. Elle L’aime is sunshine in a glass and I bet you’ll find it hard to scowl while bathing in its enveloping radiance.

Sadly Elle L’aime seems to have been a flop, I can’t see it in the department stores any more. The upside is that you can currently get it for nearly FREE at the discounters! As it was released and dumped so quickly I don’t imagine it will last there for very long though. If Bronze Goddess or Aqua Allegoria Lys Soleia are fragrances you like then I reckon Elle L’aime will ring the same bells.

Elle L'aime Lolita Lempicka maldives FonthipWard PixabayPhoto Stolen Pixabay

Further reading: Now Smell This and Australian Perfume Junkies
FragranceShop has $26/40ml
My Perfume Samples has $2/ml

Last time I wrote, I think Elle L’aime will be a perfect first grown up fragrance or a lovely addition to your easy wear, spritz and forget wardrobe. In fact, though they don’t smell much the same I am reminded of Annich Goutal’s Songes, a sugared version made in the 21st century perhaps. I think it still captures the sense and feeling of Elle L’aime perfectly.

What is your mainstream spritz & go?
Portia xx

 

I Love My Man by Fabrice Pellegrin for Dear Rose 2014

Hiya Crew,

I am really liking the Dear Rose fragrance house. They are doing mainstream fragrances in luxurious ways. They are not incredibly ground breaking but they do smell a cut above a lot of the current mainstream offerings and I think they will be appealing to a section of the community who is sick of the sweet stuff aimed at teens but who aren’t ready to go heavy duty old school or super niche either. I reckon they are happy to smell nice and have a cool looking bottle of something reasonably expensive that is just a little harder to find than CHANEL or Guerlain.

I Love My Man by Dear Rose 2014

I Love My Man by Fabrice Pellegrin

I Love My Man Dear Rose FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Bulgarian rose, centiflora rose, carnation, sandalwood, tonka bean

In my opinion one of the WORST names for a fragrance ever, what rubbish! How freaking embarrassing if someone asks you what scent you have on today. Gack! I would never wear this outside the house just in case.

I Love My Man opens so much better than I expected. A lovely, lively, jam-sweet rose that feels both fully, strongly present and ethereal like mist. The tonka bean has a softly breathy, fleshy warmth warmth to it and the whole seems to be drizzled lavishly over a huge wallop of musks (it could easily be something else but it feels like musks). I can’t think of a fragrance that does this exactly the same way. It’s a beautiful mixture that I find utterly smooth and captivating.

i-love-my-man-dear-rose Lautrec WikimediaPhoto stolen WikiCommons

It’s a lipstick rose, a makeup box, waxy and powdery and so devilishly lavish that you may find yourself stuck like glue to the parts of yourself that you’ve spritzed. Probably best not to do the backs of your knees then, keep body parts accessible unless you are a contortionist. It’s so like the scent of doing my make up but yet really only a nod to it because I Love My Man has this lovely sweetness that takes it beyond maquillage and into some completely other realm.

I could really imagine I Love My Man becoming a bunch of peoples signature scent for a while. It’s classy and classic but still manages to feel bang up to date, clean, fresh and glam. This is a really fun rose that I think the men with the balls to wear it will smell freaking amazing in it, if only it was called something else.

i-love-my-man-dear-rose Eye sallina13 PixabayPhoto Stolen Pixabay

Further reading: Candy Perfume Boy
Libertine Parfumerie has $210/100ml with FREE Delivery in Australia
First In Fragrance has €125/100ml

Do you ever wish for something perfectly constructed sheer and enveloping? Would you forgive the name and wear it anyway?
Portia xx