Vanille d’Iris by Geza Schoen for Ormonde Jayne 2015

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Post by Tara

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Hey APJ!

I’ve come across from A Bottled Rose today to hang out at my mate Portia’s place and talk about a perfume I came to with great expectations…

Vanille d’Iris by Ormonde Jayne 2015

Vanille d’Iris by Geza Schoen

Vanille d'Iris Ormonde Jayne FragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Coriander seed, Sicilian bergamot, carrot seed, schinus molle (pink pepper)
Heart: Orris absolute, jasmine absolute, magnolia bud oil, osmanthus
Base: Vanilla extract, Tahitian vanilla bud, cedar wood, vetiver, amber, musk

From the moment I heard about its release last year, I couldn’t wait to try Vanille d’Iris. Ormonde Jayne’s fragrances are well done and wearable, while still having something interesting to say. I love iris and was interested to find out how it would be combined with vanilla.

Luckily I didn’t have to pay to get hold of some. My great pal Val the Cookie Queen sent me an unwanted sample, being far from enamoured with it herself. I had only read positive reviews therefore I was now beyond intrigued.

There’s nothing to dislike about the immediate opening combo of pink pepper and bergamot. Once it settles down, I become more puzzled than anything else. I get a watery thin vanilla and some papery iris before the overall impression quickly turns into one of a Stargazer lily. How strange.

Vanille d'Iris Ormonde Jayne Audrey Stargazer Lily FlickrFlickr

I don’t find it a scrubber but I don’t find it enjoyable either. Mind you, I’m not normally a lily fan and I don’t like the indoles thrown out by Stargazers. I thought maybe I was imagining things: How could an OJ be anything other than squeaky clean?

A little while later, I felt validated when I saw Portia’s typically perceptive review on Perfume Posse mentioned a “poopy undercurrent”. Ha! Not just me then.

I must say Vanille d’Iris is most definitely NOT a skanky scent but if you do register that facet and it’s not to your taste, it’s hard to disregard.

The vanilla is not the cupcake, sugary variety but it’s also missing the comfort factor. The iris isn’t powdery or doughy but rather carrot-y. Looking at the note list, I wonder if it’s actually the carrot seed that’s throwing it for me because I’m normally a fan of iris accords.

l was disappointed because I really like the Ormonde Jayne line as a whole and had high hopes for this one. I own and love both Ormonde Woman and Champaca but for some reason Vanille d’Iris sadly just hits an off-note (literally) with me.

Vanille d'Iris Ormonde Jayne Poo4SALE GeographGeograph

It should be pointed out that other reviewers love it so don’t be put off if you’re yet to try it. Portia found the subtle indolic backnote to be earthy in a good, if unexpected way and sums up the perfume as “classic and classy”.

Further reading: Perfume Posse and I Scent You A Day
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $4/.5ml

If you’ve tried Vanille d’Iris I’d love to hear about your own experience in the comments.

Tara xxx

(Ed: Go read A Bottled Rose)

20 comments on “Vanille d’Iris by Geza Schoen for Ormonde Jayne 2015

  1. australianperfumejunkies says:

    Hey Tara,
    I love how we smell things with different interpretations, something that I really like works only nominally on you. That’s part of what makes scent fun for me.
    Portia xx

  2. cookie queen says:

    Horrible stuff.

  3. Azar says:

    Hi Tara,
    I have liked (or loved) most of the fragrances I’ve tried by Geza Schoen. For me even his heavier balsamic scents tend toward something sheer and uplifting that I have come to associate with the perfumer. I have not tried Vanille d’Iris but I’m thinking there may be a sample around here somewhere. I have probably avoided it as I’m generally not a big fan of obviously powdery iris – but I do like Stargazer, especially straight up!
    Azar xx

    • Tara says:

      Oh I hope you find your smple, Azar because Vanile d’Iris might really be your thing. If you like the scent Stargazer lillies, the chances are good.

      Geza Schoen is such a talented perfumer, I agree that even his orientals feel lightweight and easy to wear.
      Tara recently posted…Opus X by AmouageMy Profile

  4. Sandra says:

    Hi Tara. I will be perfectly honest – it was a scrubber for me. I also had to immediately wash the cardigan I was wearing as the scent would not fade away. My high hopes were crushed. Sandra xoxo

    • cookie queen says:

      Indeed it was. It made me feel sick all the way home from Vienna. Yes, we tried the same sample. LJG tried it earlier the same day and gave it straight to us. Without passing go or collecting any dosh. And I sent it to Tara as fast as possible. Gotta love this mad world. ?

    • Tara says:

      Thanks for sharing your experience, Sandra. That sample did not get a lot of love, to put it mildly! You had great expectations too, then.
      Tara recently posted…Opus X by AmouageMy Profile

  5. Robert H. says:

    Hi Tara, so sorry that it didn’t work out for you! My experience was exactly the same as yours, although I DID end up scrubbing after two hours. Which was curious to me, given that many reviewers were falling over themselves to tell the world how wonderful it was. I kept thinking “what am I missing here?” But I have a love/hate thing with OJ’s perfumes. Some are perfect, some much less so. Ahh well. It’s not like I don’t have a gazillion bottles to choose from! LOL!

    • Tara says:

      Robert, I am SO grateful for your comment because I was starting to think it might be a case of a rogue sample. The experience of those of us who tried it is so very different to that of others, but you felt the same way. Phew!

      Yes, with our collections, it’s no great loss 🙂
      Tara recently posted…Opus X by AmouageMy Profile

  6. poodle says:

    I love stargazer lilies but they do not smell poopy to me. I’m going to pass on this one. Carroty iris is not my cup of tea either. It definitely sounds like this is one of those love it or hate it perfumes. I like perfumes like that because the comments are always interesting.

  7. Kate Spritz says:

    I’m quite the Ormonde Jayne fangirl but this one didn’t wow me. I like it but don’t love it. It seems highly informed by the beautiful Papillon Perfumes Angelique. Compare and contrast notes. Just saying.

  8. Undina says:

    For me VdI wasn’t love but I rather liked it than not. I think I smell Iso E Super that I’m a little tired of in OJ’s perfumes but maybe it’s my mind playing tricks on me since I know how much Geza Schoen likes that stuff. Anyway, I’m really surprised that it was that bad on so many people… I’ll have to test it again tomorrow!
    Undina recently posted…In the Search for the Perfect CoffeeMy Profile

    • Tara says:

      Well, Sandra, Val and I all reacted badly to the same sample so who knows if that vial is the issue. It didn’t seem off at all though so I do think it’s just divisive. Perhaps you either register those indoles or you don’t. I wonder how you’ll get on with it tomorrow.

      I wore Champaca the other day for the first time this spring and loved it as much as ever so guess I’m not tiring of OJ just yet.
      Tara recently posted…Opus X by AmouageMy Profile

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