Hello APJ friends! Hope you are all well and enjoy my contribution today.
I’ve loved gardenias even longer than I have loved perfume. The velvety white blooms have been a constant in my house over summer ever since I was a little girl. As a result, I associate their heady scent with freedom, happiness and good times: summer holidays, splashing around in the backyard pool, savouring a cold ice cream, sultry starlight evenings and Australian Christmas. My adoration is so big that I’ve developed a little ritual each time I visit my parents at Christmas. As soon as my suitcase is unpacked, I cut some of the creamy buds and arrange them in a vase to put in my bedroom, their intoxicating scent allowing me to forget my work stress and delve deep into joyous memories.
Gardenias may be my perfumed perfection, but sadly, as many have encountered, it’s difficult to obtain a perfect gardenia perfume. As most will know, scent can’t be extracted directly from the flowers and needs to be created via synthetics. In addition, most great gardenia perfumes have been discontinued: Tuvache and the wonderful Velvet Gardenia by Tom Ford (which in my estimation is the most exquisitely lifelike rendition of the flower ever). Others are good, but miss the mark in my estimation: Chanel’s is more jasmine and a little uptight, Isabey’s is more of a floral bouquet, Il Profumo’s a much stronger rendition of the Chanel, Van Cleef’s is more lily and not narcotic enough.
Thankfully, the perfume gods were listening in 2012 and a number of perfumes featuring gardenia were released: Ineke’s Hothouse Flowers (which I haven’t tried yet), the dark, brooding gardenia of Serge Luten’s Une Voix Noire and
Boutonniere No 7 by Arquiste 2012
Photo Stolen beyondblackwhite
Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Lavender, pettigrain, gardenia, vetiver, genet, oakmoss
Interestingly enough, Boutonniere was conceived as a gardenia fragrance for men. This intrigued me, as when it comes to the flower, I can’t think of anything more femme fatale other than gardenia. According to the copy, the perfume is meant to evoke the scent of a group of gentlemen gathered at intermission at the Opera-Comique in Paris in 1899. They are wearing gardenia boutonnieres; the heady scent from the lapels intermingled with the bergamot and lavender colognes the men are wearing.
Boutonniere does have the crisp feel of cologne and I can see some men wearing it, but it is still decidedly feminine enough to satisfy this girly-girl. What Boutonniere brings to the aforementioned gardenia line-up is a luminous, very green rendition of the flower. The aromatic bergamot and lavender temper the creamy, ripe quality of the velvety petals and give them a soft incandescence. The fragrance has the lush quality associated with the flower but remains bright and soft.
When wearing it, I have been thinking of a young woman on summer holidays at a country estate. It’s almost dawn and she can’t sleep, restless with excitement about long languid days ahead. In her ivory nightie, she slowly opens the French doors to a luxuriant private garden filled with gardenia bushes, lavender and huge lemon trees. She breathes in the cool air, steps out with grass crunching underfoot. The daybreak sprinklers are on: petals and roots washed fresh under a sky of milky lilac; the air filled with hushed promise of new possibilities.
Boutonniere to me is the first part of a triptych of the perfect gardenia. If Velvet Gardenia is the flower in full bloom, ripe and voluptuous in the midday sun and Une Voix Noire the flower with petals gone sweet and overripe, then Boutonniere is the bloom yet to be born: tight white buds softly creamy and earthy green.
You can purchase a 55ml bottle directly from Arquiste for US$195.
SurrenderToChance has samples starting at US$5/.5ml
19 thoughts on “Boutonniere No 7 by Rodrigo Flores-Roux for Arquiste 2012”
Arquiste seems to be an interesting brand. It’s not available in Poland yet. I hope it will be introduced to Polish customers once. When it will I will definitely sample them.
It is an interesting line! I still need to try some more. I do hope you get them in Poland soon! Also hope exams and everything else is OK with you 🙂
My summer holiday scent is Paris Hilton Siren!
Ooh! Haven’t t tried this K. What’s it like?
I got to try all three of the new gardenia scents while in NYC this month (Hothouse Flower, Une Voix Noir and Boutonniere). Personally, I think my favorite was the SL but, the Arquiste was really unique and interesting. It just seemed to get a little too mushroomy in the dry down for my taste. I still haven’t smelled Velvet Gardenia, I would love to compare to these newer renditions. Thanks for a wonderful review!
My pleasure Dubaiscents!
Une Voix Noire is amazing and you must try the VG if you can!
Thank you for the beautiful review, Madeleine. What I really like about Arquiste is that their fragrances are inspired by specific situations, time periods or people. It’s so much easier and interesting to think of fragrances this way than to in vague subjective terms most fragrances use in their advertising campaigns.
Hi Scent Bound,
Thank you for the compliment and for reading it!
Yes, I totally agree! Much nicer than some of the vague PR copy and having a time and place to ponder is so much more romantic.
Great review Madeleine. Interesting to have a male inspired gardenia. Love your triptych. Does does take you through a whole DayNight? Or are you wearing them all at once? Could be a special effect.
All three at once?
I think that would be death by gardenia!
I shall however wear all.three at different times on the same day and see how the triptych pans out on my skin.
Another great post. I love Carlos Huber and his Arquiste line,
Hope you are having a wonderful time in Prague. I do too, but have only tried the florals so next off my list is Anima Dulcis.
Oooooooh! Sexy, chilli, chocolate made by repressed Nuns in a convent far far away.
I think you may love it.
I love gardenias. I wish I could grow the fussy little things but I’ve tried and tried and they just refuse to thrive for me. Since I can’t smell the real thing all that often I’m not too fussy about my gardenia scents. I have not tried this one but I have tried Hothouse Flower and I do like it. It’s not a heavy floral, in your face kind of gardenia. That’s okay with me though because as much as I love the flower I don’t know if I really want to smell exactly like a gardenia. Does that make any sense?
What a shame you can’t grow them. You should come live here! 😉
I so know what you mean. You may like this one then as it is a fresh gardenia and not in your face. As a matter of fact, I’m right now sampling JARs Jardenia and whoa, it is BIG. And a reeeally strong bleu cheese note ….. ill wait a little while before coming to a conclusion.
My favorite somewhat-gardenia scents are Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia and the lovely iris-gardenia Iris Nobile, although I’ll freely admit I rarely dip my toe in the BWF end of the perfumista pool. I haven’t tried anything from the Arquiste line-up yet, but my own fave summer holiday scents would be Bronze Goddess and Philosykos.
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