Vohina by Pierre Guillaume for Huitieme Art Parfums 2010

Hiya Niche Nerds,

I know how much you all love Pierre Guillaume’s physique, handsome face and abject fear of wearing too many clothes. The fact that he makes lovely, wearable, interesting fragrances can be bypassed quite easily for a lingering look at some of his images, he is quite stunningly spectacular. One of the great things for me about this man and his frags is that all three of his perfume companies, I think they are his businesses but he may be their perfumer only, feel like they are a good fit for me. Huitieme Art Parfums, Parfumerie Generale and Phaedon all have something intrinsic that invites me in, as if I’m already part of the gang and I can just come and have a casual sniff that may tuirn into full blown love at any moment. I feel much the same way about Guerlain, Olympic Orchids, L’Artisan and Estee Lauder: not that all of these companies offerings work for or on me but they feel friendly.

Vohina by Pierre Guillaume for Huitieme Art Parfums 2010

Vohina Huitieme Art Parfums FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
White honey, peach blossom, hay (LuckyScent calls it Lavender Honey)

Huitieme Art Parfums is a brand that I particularly like. The scents that I have spent any real time with have all worked on some level for me. So today I want to look at Vohina, I tried it in BLOOM Perfumery in London back in February and because I was too excited and couldn’t concentrate properly the girls have me a lovely carded sample which I’ve only just come across. Now I can spend some dedicated sniffing time with Vohina, YAY!

SMILE! This is so different to my memory and expectations. The white honey is waxy and animal, peach blossoms are pretty and surprisingly sweet (to be honest I get more fruit than blossom) and the hay seems still green at the beginning. I love how Birgit says in the middle of her winter, “I need the warmth of the sun, not an oven, I need blue skies and green meadows, not my living room. I need the sparkling freshness of a light summer scent.” Yes, Vohina is spring in a bottle, perfect for wear in any season and shot through with the splendid zing that can only come from the huge resurgence of life that spring is, like the world’s annual heart beat.

Vohina Huitieme Art Parfums Spring Blossom Catherine FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

The honey takes a waltz with the peach right through the centre of Vohina, they are beautifully paired and in constant frisson. There are more things going on but if I told you I get a soft BarBQ and smoke through the heart you would think me bananas, and when I say that there is also a candy sweet sugariness like the strawberry part of Strawberries & Cream lollies and the pink Musk Sticks I know you will think I’ve gone barmy but there they are for me. Bold as brass.

As Vohina moves through its lifespan the spring turns to summer, the honey becomes less apparent, fruitiness recedes and the green haystacks brown off to straw. There is a clean-ness to Vohinas dry down, the musks? Could it be the lavender? Is there a whisper of it twisting through?

Sometimes I think my nose has gone a bit haywire, Vohina bears closer inspection.

Vohina Huitieme Art Parfums Haystacks Geograph.UKPhoto Stolen Geograph.org.uk

Vohina is lovely but my skin eats most of it in under two hours and leaves me with a very soft, a faint sweet musky woodsiness. It is pretty and wearable and I could imagine Vohina being an excellent gateway fragrance for someone who is testing the niche waters from a steady diet of designer.

Further reading: Olfactoria’s Travels and Scented Hound
LuckyScent has $125/50ml and samples
First In Fragrance has €95/50ml and samples

Which of this line have you tried? Do you like Pierre or his fragrant aesthetic?
Come on, join the conversation, we love to read what you think in the comments below.
Portia xx

 

 

Royal First Class Cabin Set GIVEAWAY WINNERS

Hi there APJ,

THANK YOU to our lovely 6 entrants. Well, this was clearly not a winner of a giveaway. It was very poorly subscribed to but I am glad that there are a few of you who thought it would be fun and lavish to have such a thing. OK, so who won?

Royal First Class Cabin Set GIVEAWAY WINNERS

Thai Royal First Cabin Set #2

WHAT COULD YOU WIN?

This week we will have 3 winners who will each get:
1 x Thai Royal First Class Cabin Set
P&H Anywhere in AUSTRALIA

HOW DID YOU WIN?

Open to everyone in AUSTRALIA who follows Australian Perfume Junkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Please tell me your favourite holiday destination. It could be one you have been to or one you dream of. There are no time or financial constraints, just a dream, where would you go, for how long and who with?

Extra Chance?
Tweet: @OzPerfumeJunkie Thai Royal First Class Cabin Set GIVEAWAY http://wp.me/p3PURw-2Vg #Perfume #Giveaway

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Sunday 29th June 2014 10pm Australian EST
Winners were chosen by random.org

Winners thegarfieldshow-diaryPhoto Stolen thegarfieldshow-diary

Willa

Camilla Sheridan

Mark Evans

The winners will have till Thursday 3rd July 2014 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

Laine de Verre by Christopher Sheldrake for Serge Lutens 2014

Woo Hoo!

Always a little frisson zings through me when I read of a new Serge Lutens. Living on the other side of the world from most of the fragrant action I usually get my sniff on through samples or splits and so I have in my hot little hands a decant from Surrender To Chance, have you seen their New Perfume Releases page? Broken down into the last couple of months of release, it means you can tell as soon as something new hits the store, excellent if you are living in a fragrant backwater.

Laine de Verre by Christopher Sheldrake for Serge Lutens 2014

Laine de Verre Serge Lutens FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Citruses, aldehydes, musk, woody cashmeran molecule

So loads of people not loving this one. Usually I don’t read reviews before I sniff but a way back in November 2013 I was introduced to Laine de Verre by Denyse at Grain de Musc and then caught Victoria’s post on Bois de Jasmin both of whom were interesting for the differences in their wear story. Because they had such different experiences, these two women I revere, it caught my attention though I did not feel that this would be a fragrance that I could like, or love. So my sample is here, it’s a beautiful sunny 20C in Sydney and I have been out sunbaking. Time to try Laine de Verre or Glass Wool.

Laine de Verre Serge Lutens Rockwool WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

Whoa! Cold, sharp, sparkling. The moment I spritz I think “This is what the palace in Disney’s Frozen would smell like.” CLEAN! Stainless steel spoon on tongue. Brand newly finished cycle on the dishwasher after all the heat has gone. It doesn’t stay this shiny for long, maybe 20-30 minutes, then something a bit feral crawls out.  All clean, angular, reflective lines and an antiseptic clean hiding filth, well not filth but something jarringly unclean.

I’ll give you an analogy, sometimes after a huge day out on holidays you run back to your hotel lobby and have to use the toilet immediately because you’ve been out all day. So you walk into this frigid, antiseptic and cover fragranced toilet, everything is immaculate. As you sit down to use the toilet up huffs a whiff of your humanity, you aren’t dirty or anything more than a bit sunburned and slightly sweaty but in this arctic smelling environment you are a surprise. All the while though you can still smell the UBER clean bathroom smells. Does that register?

Laine de Verre Serge Lutens Hotel Toilet WikiCommonsPhoto Stolen WikiCommons

So I originally spritzed Laine de Verre at around 5pm tonight, it’s now midnight and there is a lingering metallic musk with a dash of rubber that is both interesting and slightly freaky. It’s very close to the skin but I smell completely other and quite inhuman, I imagine this to be the smell of a humanoid robot trying to pass for life. Though I can’t imagine spritzing this regularly I will keep the sample and see if the mood does take me. Do I like it? Only on an intellectual basis, it doesn’t move me towards it. Actually it might be a good scent for giving the stay away vibe…

Laine de Verre Serge Lutens  space PixabayPhoto Stolen Pixabay

LuckyScent has $110/50ml
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $5/ml

Did you try Laine de Verre? Lover or hater? Is Serge Lutens a house you feel fits you?
Do something nice for yourself today, something simple like walk for 10 minutes in the day to enjoy the weather if it’s good, or under an umbrella if it’s rubbish. Maybe spend 10 minutes pulling weeds in your yard or cleaning out your fridge. I always feel good after doing any of these.
Portia xx

 

Balenciaga Fall Winter 2014 Ad Campaign

Good Morning Frag Heads,

Here is one of the most beautiful and inspiring images of fashion this season. Gisele Bündchen looking like a rocker cross pixie plotting her next move in a crystal cave of reflection. Hair shorn and very androgynous looking, it could be a poster for a modern take on Peter Pan.

Balenciaga Fall Winter 2014 Ad Campaign

As so often is the case I found this at my go to fashion image news page art8amby

 

Balenciaga’s dark ad campaign for fall features Gisele Bündchen, who in February walked the brand’s runway show in a rare catwalk appearance.

In one image from the campaign, shot by Steven Klein, a moody-looking Bündchen, her typically long locks apparently shorn and slicked, sports thigh-high patent boots against an infinitely reflecting backdrop of cracked mirrored surfaces.

“This is how I see Gisele for Balenciaga; strong, powerful, mysterious and uncompromising,” Balenciaga artistic director Alexander Wang said of the campaign.

Behind the makeup look is Diane Kendal, while Anthony Turner styled the hair for the shoot. (source)

AROMANTIK: Natural Perfume Oil Sampler

Hey Hey APJ,

Here I have a sampler of an Australian Natural Perfumery AROMANTIK. It was sent to me by the company to try and if I liked the work then to talk about. Well, the jury is back and like? No way, I am loving AROMANTIK oils. They are earthy, deep, interesting and beautiful and I am incredibly impressed wit their smooth rounded fullness. After 5 minutes on your skin they could be from the very best niche house, here is an Australian small batch independent perfumer to be proud of.

AROMANTIK: Natural Perfume Oil Sampler

From the AROMANTIK site: AROMANTIK is a natural perfume studio started in 2010 by independent natural perfumer & designer Sally Woodward-Hawes. All of our products are hand-blended in small batches using only the finest natural essential oils, resins & absolutes sourced from all over the world. Sally is a professional perfumer with the Natural Perfumers Guild – the world’s largest trade association dedicated to natural fragrance.

There are 8 fragrances in the sampler and today I am testing two, one on each hand: The Blossom Thief and Love & Strife. You lucky ducks are getting a first hand run through of the thrill of wearing a fragrance for the first time. Come along, I hope you enjoy meandering through my fragrant thoughts.

AROMANTIK: The Blossom Thief

AROMANTIK gives these featured accords:
Jasmine Grandiflorum Absolute, Natural Gardenia Accord, Tuberose Absolute, Natural Musk Accord, Ambrette (musk) Seed, Amber

From the AROMANTIK site: NEW! An ethereal & sensual fragrance built around jasmine & musk, with hints of gardenia, tuberose & white creamy blossoms in full bloom. Auspiciously finished on 1/3/13 this lush & intoxicating fragrance exudes an undercurrent of carnal sensuality.

OK, so imagine it’s early summer. You walk into a florist, the air is cool compared to the outside and there is only the light from the front window. In the couple of moments that it takes for your eyes and head to adjust: this is the smell. The smell of the death of flowers, the last fragrant gasp they give screaming their murder to the world. Jasmine, green, sappy, breathy backed by a chorus of white flowers, interestingly there is no mention of lily because I get a lovely big whack of it. I also smell peony, but a bunch of them not a perfumers reminder. The Blossom Thief smells expensive, luxurious and elegant and though it opens quite like many natural fragrances, after 10 minutes you feel swept up in a beautiful high end niche fragrance that is more nuanced and interesting than more than half of the stuff released last year that I got to smell. WOW! I was completely unprepared for something so devastatingly beautiful.

AROMANTIK: Love & Strife

AROMANTIK gives these featured accords:
French pink grapefruit, Bulgarian rose absolute, night blooming jasmine sambac blossoms, certified organic Madagascan ylang ylang, amber, orris root, ambrette ‘musk’ seed

From the AROMANTIK site: Traditional rose, the flower of eternal love, VS. narcotic night blooming Jasmine, the flower of lust & desire… Inspires love & intimacy and if you’re lucky, a bit of strife!

Gosh! Straight out of the gate I get spicy clove and citrus, not definitely grapefruit but it does have a wonderful sweet/sour quality and then through it weaves a beautiful jasmine and ylang duet that is outrageously breathy and full of naughty and sexy mischief. I also get a whiff of sweet biscuit dough with grainy sugar. The rose on my skin is completely submerged in the other notes for nearly the first 20 minutes, everything else seems to need its moment before giving the rose centre stage. When the rose moves in she is a sweet, musky, vegetative creature that sweeps and glides around the white flowers, in and out of hiding, shy and yet commanding. Interestingly for a natural perfume oil nearly 11 hours on I am still fragrant with a very pretty wash of something indefinable that even in the cool stink of waking up manages to smell quite alluring, I thought it must have been Jin, but no it was the hand I was sleeping on. Excellent.

AROMANTIK has both these lovely natural perfume oils $50/5ml roller ball
AROMANTIK also has a Sample Pack $49/7 x 1ml samples

Please go and have a look at the AROMANTIK site, they are a very small business trying to make it in a tough world and would certainly appreciate your business.
Portia xx

THAI Airways: Royal First Class

Hey APJ,

Here’s something fun that I hope you Aussies will all get into. Sorry it’s taken so long to do this giveaway but there has been too much going on. FINALLY, here it is…..

THAI Airways: Royal First Class

Gawd! It seems like a million years since Michael & I took our European vacation in Jan/Feb 2014. It was an incredible experience, made even more so by the fact that we flew First Class to and from Europe. Though Thai was not 100% amazing in everything (we had our share of issues but as my mate Alice says, “Eeeew, my diamond shoes are too tight” moment) it was nice to have that much extra space, excellent food and service (in the air and the lounges) and to be collected at the gate by a buggy to whisk you to the First Class Lounge in each port. Really, incredible.

Would I travel First Class again? Probably not. There were things I liked but for the money I think it should be PERFECT!! There should be no complaint, trouble, drama or fiasco of any kind. Sadly Thai did not deliver this. To be completely honest I can sleep through an economy flight and still arrive in pretty good shape. That frees up thousands of dollars for enjoyment on my holiday.

I am sorry to our world readers but I can only send these within Australia. Postage has become too expensive to send these to the world. SORRY!!

Thai Royal First Cabin Set Michael Bed 2014Michael waking up in Thai Royal First Class

On every flight we were given a Thai Royal First Cabin Set. In each Thai Royal First Cabin Set there is:
1. L’Occitanne Eau de Cologne
2. L’Occitanne Body Lotion
3. L’Occitanne Lip Balm
4. Comb & Brush
5. Comfort Socks
6. Earplugs
7. Eyeshade
8. Toothbrush
9. Tooth Paste
10. Mouthwash

It all comes in a terrific wet pack that I will keep and use as my on-board cabin wet pack for years to come. Simple, stylish and really well designed. The one I opened and used is purple but the other three perfectly new in their plastic are white.

I know this is only very slightly in an olfactory vein but while we were flying I was so excited to be able to bring these back for some of you to try.
Portia xx

Thai Royal First Cabin Set #1Thai Royal First Cabin Set with some stuff missing

giveaway manoneileenPhoto Stolen manoneileen

Royal First Class Cabin Set GIVEAWAY

Thai Royal First Cabin Set #2

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have 3 winners who will each get:
1 x Thai Royal First Class Cabin Set
P&H Anywhere in AUSTRALIA

HOW DO YOU WIN?

Open to everyone in AUSTRALIA who follows Australian Perfume Junkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Please tell me your favourite holiday destination. It could be one you have been to or one you dream of. There are no time or financial constraints, just a dream, where would you go, for how long and who with?

Extra Chance?
Tweet: @OzPerfumeJunkie Thai Royal First Class Cabin Set GIVEAWAY http://wp.me/p3PURw-2Vg #Perfume #Giveaway

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Sunday 29th June 2014 10pm Australian EST and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winners will be chosen by random.org
The winners will have till Thursday 3rd July 2014 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

Givenchy: Dahlia Divin Fragrance 2014 Ad Campaign

Hello Frag & Music Lovers,

Here is a pretty sensational pairing. Givenchy, once the home base of Audrey Hepburn, has taken a new and modern beauty as its face. Although I have loved Alicia Keys voice since “Fallin'” when she was a meer slip of a girl now having seen some recent interviews I am completely smitten. Alicia offers smart, sassy, soulful and a whole truckload of other positive things. I think her a role model for generations to come. Fingers crossed.

Portia xx

Givenchy Dahlia Divin Fragrance 2014 Ad Campaign

Grammy-winning singer Alicia Keys is sitting pretty is a Riccardo Tisci-designed embellished champagne-hued gown for the new fragrance campaign of Givenchy Dahlia Divin. The prices range from $65 to $110 a bottle, with a Skin Dew option for $53. (source)

Black Cashmere by Rodrigo Flores-Roux for Donna Karan 2002

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Post by FeralJasmine

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Here in the southwestern USA it’s hot as hell and my winter scents are taking a break at the back of the cabinet, but it’s the perfect season to inflict my highly personal opinions about cool-weather scents upon the unsuspecting Aussies. So here is my first opinion: mass-market fragrances used to be a lot better than they are now. Part of it is that this is a tough decade for someone who despises most fruit notes, but also it used to be that, when companies went to the trouble and expense of launching a new perfume, they actually wanted you to be able to tell it from other perfumes. Now, I would swear that they’re all jostling for the rail in the Just-Like-Everybody-Else Sweepstakes. The wise and lovely Portia once reminded me in a comment that it’s all cyclical, and that in a few decades today’s mass-market consumers will be 2044’s aging perfumistas, grumpily complaining that you just can’t find good fruity florals anymore. Probably true. But Black Cashmere, with its hefty dose of wenge, has always smelled unlike anything else on the market.

Black Cashmere by Rodrigo Flores-Roux for Donna Karan 2002

Black Cashmere Donna Karan FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Saffron, nutmeg
Heart: Red pepper, white pepper, carnation, rose
Base: Woody notes, patchouli, African woods, vanilla, amber

Here’s my second strongly help opinion: reformulation is not a bad thing if it keeps a distinctive perfume on the post-IFRA market in a recognizable form. Case in point: my winter favorite, Donna Karan Black Cashmere. The first really distinctive perfume that I fell for, the one that tripped me so badly that I fell right down the rabbit hole, was the original DK Black Cashmere. I bought a dab sample and was lost in the wonder of something unlike anything else that I had ever smelled. Rich, plush, highly distinctive, and beautiful. What an evening that was.

Then I went on EBay to look for a vintage bottle, and it occurred to me that I had acquired a very expensive obsession indeed. Finally I did find a bottle of the vintage that I could afford, more or less, but I also swallowed hard and bought a decant of the reissue.

Black Cashmere Donna Karan WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

Was it a shocking disappointment? Not really. Certainly the vintage has more depth and more oomph. But unlike the current Opium, which is a sick travesty, the current Black Cashmere makes a real effort to transmit the scent and spirit of the original. It’s a little lighter and extends itself a little further into warm weather. Overall, I dare you to find something more distinctive at that price point, which is a little over a dollar a milliliter if bought off the DK website. I have since bought a full bottle of the reissue, and often I wear the current one on one arm and the vintage on the other, to make my precious vintage last.

So why don’t more firms make an actual effort with their reissues? Beats me. But I also have both vintage and reissued Chaos from DK, and the reissue is a bit lacking compared to the vintage but is a genuine attempt to reproduce the very distinctive vintage recognizably in an IFRA-friendly form. DK Inc. seems to make real efforts to meet their fans halfway.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Further reading: Bois de Jasmin and Now Smell This
Donna Karan has $120/100ml
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $4/ml

I hate to rub salt into my readers’ wounds, but what’s your most distressing reissue story?
FeralJasmine xx

Anais Anais L’Original by Cacharel 2014

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Post by Gabriella

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Anais Anais was my foundation perfume. As I have explained previously, it was my very first signature scent and thus accompanied me on many rites of passage throughout the 1980s and 1990s. It was the scent of my high school travails, my first love, my 21st birthday and countless Christmases. I was lucky in that it was not ubiquitous amongst my coterie of friends and so it was truly my scent, inextricably linked with my character and the foundation for my subsequent perfume journey.

The perfume has not been left unscathed by the passing of time. Over the years, the lovely soap, body lotion and deodorant slowly disappeared from shelves. The EDP also went, only to be relaunched in a new guise some years ago with new Kate Moss ads and then became difficult to find. The current EDT, while still lovely, is but a whisper of its former glory: subtle refomulations have rendered it sunbleached and ghostlike as if someone has taken the pastel-hued maidens of the ad campaigns and watered them down: they have become fuzzy and indistinct.

Anais Anais L’Original by Cacharel 2014

Anais Anais L’Original Eau de Parfum FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Hyacinth, galbanum, orange blossom
Heart: Jasmine, rose, lily
Base: Sandalwood, cedar, incense, amber

So when I heard that Cacharel was relaunching the 1978 classic under the name Anais Anais L’Original, I was excited but also somewhat worried and perplexed. Here was the chance to go back to a great love. But what if it didn’t match my olfactory memories? Furthermore, if Cacharel had this formulation at hand, then why had it persisted in keeping the current EDT on shelves?

All my worries vanished upon first sniff. Memories flooded back and I felt like I had come home. Here it was again, my scent, my bastion of a perfume.

Anais Anais L’Original Hyacinths WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

The only difference I could detect between what I was smelling and my olfactory memory is that L’Original appears a to have a stronger hyacinth top note, rendering the composition brighter and rounder. Comparing it to the current EDT, I was struck by the difference between the two: the Anais Anais EDT is harsher upon first spray, the hyacinth is more astringent and the whole composition a little bit more powdery and dry. The sillage and longevity is also markedly different: L’Original sings on my skin as it did all those years ago and lasts and lasts whereas the current EDT is but a mere shadow after a couple of hours.

Anais Anais L’Original Pastel Sunset Versageek FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

I’m very thankful to have an old love back. And I’m comforted by the fact that in these days of IFRA restrictions and reformulations that an old classic has been given a new lease of life.

Further reading: Bois de Jasmin and The Non Blonde
Anais Anais L’Original (available in both EDP and EDT) and Anais Anais EDT are widely available at department stores and online sellers.
FragranceNet has the current EDT starting at $31.19/30ml before discount
Surrender To Chance starts at $3/ml

Do you like Anais Anais? Have you tried L’Original? What was your foundation perfume?
With much love till next time!
M x