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Post by FeralJasmine
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Some time ago, my friend Kafkaesque did a review of a then-unknown perfume called Kalemat, from Arabian Oud. It was $60 for a big bottle, and such is the seductive power of Kafkaesque’s prose that large numbers of us blind-bought it.
Kalemat by Arabian Oud
Photo Stolen Fragrantica
Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Blueberry, anise
Heart: Rosemary, cashmere wood, floral notes
Base: Musk, amber, honey
To see exactly what seduced us, there is no alternative to reading the original post, because nobody can write like Kafkaesque. You will also note that, like a comet, the post developed a very long tail as we all reported back with our experiences. My own response was a tiny bit disappointed at the time, and that’s where matters stayed until a few months later, when I noticed that the level in my bottle had decreased visibly and bought a back-up bottle. In cool weather, I reach for it at least three times a week, and often wear it as a comfort scent in the evening and on weekends.
Photo Stolen WikiMedia
So why did it take me weeks to fall in love? Chasing a youthful dream, I’m afraid. To this day, my dream amber is one that I smelled on a woman in Egypt over 20 years ago as she passed me in the street, and I am still seeking that honeyed amber spice-bomb and haven’t found it. When I read about Kalemat, I was sure I had found it, and felt irrationally disappointed when Kalemat was its duplicate but, on my dry perfume-eating skin, was a soft memory rather than the concentrated bombshell original. All the notes are there, but the volume is turned down.
Photo Stolen Flickr
Is that a bad thing? Not at all. If I found my dream amber, Kalemat Cubed, it would probably clear elevators. Kalemat has a beautiful sunset-honeyed cloud of an opening that has excellent projection and killer sillage, and for the first 20 minutes projection is several inches off my skin. I spray before going to work, and enjoy this part along the commute. By the time I arrive, the sillage is soft and polite and it never raises an eyebrow among my colleagues. I don’t get the rivers of amber that Kafkaesque got, but I do get trickles of honeyed spiced amber that delight me every time I can sniff my wrist surreptitiously, and waft to me with every movement of my hands. A few other notes, like the blueberry-spice note, drift by and turn my thoughts firmly to pleasant things when they reach my nose. Sprayed more heavily in the evening, it reminds me that life is so lovely and generous that those of us who can’t afford the Roja Doves can still smell wonderful. It is killer on a scarf in the winter, warming you subtly. The packaging is also lovely, with a heavy, substantial 100ml glass bottle that arrives in a lovely Arabic-lettered book box.
Photo Stolen Pixabay
The parent company, Arabian Oud, moved off Amazon but Kalemat can still be found on EBay for very reasonable prices. Someday I still hope to find my dream amber for special occasions, Kalemat Cubed, but this one will hold me just fine until then.
FeralJasmine X
Great review, FeralJasmine! Happy Thanksgiving.
Azar xx
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Happy Thanksgiving to you, Azar, and all the AJP family! I wonder what all of you are wearing. My Thanksgiving scent is always Theorema, for some reason, but tomorrow I’ll spray my Kalemat around again.
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Your comment reminds me that perhaps I should pull out my old Fendi. It is still in good shape. I don’t know what I am saving it for! Also I think I will try to find Kalemet online somewhere. Yikes! I just tried putting on some old Madini Amber… a great scent but too much for today!
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Nice post, FeralJasmine. I was one of the ones who rushed out to get Kalemat. It was a great purchase but I should wear it more often.
My latest amber obsession is Tom Ford Amber Absolute (sadly discontinued) and I will be trying MPG Ambre Preciux when I visit Osswald NYC this weekend (we all know who got me excited about this).
Today I’m in Guerlain Cuir Beluga, so cozy and guaranteed not to offend anyone as it stays close to skin and if someone does come close enough, it just smells like fluffy vanilla!
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Amber Absolute is a rare beauty. I’ve stockpiled a fair amount of it. I’ve recently fallen for Cuir Beluga’s sister Gourmand Coquin, and will try Cuir Beluga next. I seem to remember that I sampled it a year or two ago and liked it, but can’t recall much about it.
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How funny! I read that original post and got as far as finding it on Amazon but never went through with the purchase. Thanks for reminding me I wanted to try it. Looks like I’ll have to search a little harder this time. Thanks for the review!
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I have recently developed a wonderful Oud-based fragrance for a client using artificial Oud from Firmenich and real Oud oil supplied by the client. There is a story about it all on our Facebook page:
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Damask-Perfumery/184113691602463?ref=ts&fref=ts
I used the Firmenich Oud in another Fine Fragrance for men we have called ‘Harlequin’; it is stunning! (even if I say so myself!)
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