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Post by Ainslie Walker
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Nick Smart’s desk at Agence de Parfum’s HQ (Libertine Parfumerie) often holds exciting secrets. Last week he had just returned from a buying trip in Europe…Squeal!! I dashed for the pile of boxes and had a quick sniff. These are my first thoughts and REVEALS:
NEW!: Creed, Juliette Has A Gun and Frapin
A fleeting whiff! New niche releases
Creed: Princess Oud is an oriental floral for women launching in Australia in March 2016, also created by in-house nose Oliver Creed. Before sniffing I thought of the words “princess” and “oud” and conjured up an imagined scent being sweet, girlie and dense with oud. I was right. An appealing, possibly heading towards ‘crowd pleasing,’ fragrance which paves a pathway between Middle Eastern and Western perfumes. It’s far too icky-sweet for me, personally. Maybe not so original but it’s done very well, this review is from a card so skin mileage will vary.
Creed: Royal Mayfair, a unisex fragrance launching here in December is a remake of Windsor, the limited edition of 2009, renamed and no longer limited. Whoop! Windsor was originally created in 1936 for King Edward VIII of England. Ingredients take us on a tour of the British Empire he ruled and makes for an interesting olfactive tale, in which Australia features, with the inclusion of “our” eucalyptus. Nose Oliver Creed has combined London gin, Jamaican lime, Scottish Highland pine tree atop of “Duke of Windsor” roses and orange from the Bahamas over Canadian cedar and AUSTRALIAN eucalyptus. I stopped and took notice when I first sniffed and it gets better and more beautiful and distinctive on drydown. My current gin based fragrance is Penhaligon’s Juniper Sling…could this be next?
Frapin: The Orchid Man is being compared to Aventus and due in Australia for release in January. Call me an alien but I am no massive fan of Aventus. Obviously I appreciate it, but mostly it’s too macho, and frankly that’s not who I like to nuzzle up too. Add to this all the comments re “panty dropping” I see on fragrance forums and I think its killed it for me (pants definitely up to the point of wedging!) My favourite pineapple note in perfumes is in Frapin’s 1270. So I was intrigued thinking, “could Frapin’s take possibly be a better and more affordable Aventus with 1270’s magical pineapples and woods?” No. It’s missing the pineapple sadly, but it is very similar to Aventus.
Juliette Has a Gun: Another Oud will be released in Australia in Feb 2016 (lets hope this means another visit to Oz from sexy Parisian, Romano Ricci, father of the brand..!) I smell the musks and ambroxan JHAG are famous for with oud floating up eventually from underneath. A dry oud scent. On the skin however Another Oud comes to life and there’s more to it than first expected, including some raspberry fruit and intensifying oud. I’d like to spend more time with this fragrance as it has all the elements to be very sensual.
Libertine Parfumerie has samples and bottles. FREE Australian Delivery over $100
First In Fragrance if you’re in Europe
LuckyScent in the USA
Surrender To Chance is a great way to sample before you buy too
What have you discovered lately that’s new to market or you that has touched you?
Ainslie Walker
Hi Ainslie
I have tried Royal Mayfair and thought there were similarities with Geranium Vetiver which is on the ever growing wishlist.
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Hi Sebastian,
Hmm that might also be why it touched something in me? I did not make that connection, but I have geranium vetiver and love it very much! I will go back for a resniff when I pop back to Agence. Are you based in Australia? Thanks for the tip off with this. I look forwards to comparing.
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You are a Freaking Riot. Love this piece Ainslie.
AHHHH Romano Ricci!!! faint {thud}
Portia xx
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Thanks Portia! What are your thoughts on Aventus..? X
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My dentist is in love with Aventus. If I want a pineapple fizz I’ll reach for Anyway by JHag (I know, it’s not in the notes but it sure does smell like pineapple to me) or Rockin’ Rio by Escada. There’s another one I like but can’t think of it for the life of me.
Portia x
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is royal mayfair loyal re-creation of windsor? i loved windsor from sample but royal mayfair is not getting good reviews
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From my research it seems to be. I don’t think I was ever lucky enough to smell Windsor. I look forwards to hearing how you feel they compare X
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I wonder how this compares to JHaG Midnight Oud, of which I am a fan. I’m surprised at how many people have dismissed MO after trying a sample, saying it’s too this or that (fake, rubbery, aroma chemicals, rose oxide…) and then a month later come back with “I love this!”. I think there’s a bit of snobbery in play with assessing this brand. I also love Vengeance Extreme, their entry in the crowded rose/patchouli field.
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