Vetiverus by Oliver Valverde for Oliver + Co. 2012

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Post by Portia

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My mate Scott was over the other day and we were going through some new samples, bottles and decants that had arrived in the week since I’d seen him. Basically I grabbed a piece of paper and pen, some touches and we even used some of our precious skin so we could smell how differently they lived on each of us. It was fun and interesting, when you sniff with someone and they find a new love it’s amazing how that then reactivates my focus and energises the whole process of parsing. This is the winner of our sniffathon and it came in a free sample set because I’d bought their Gincense, which we’ll talk about later.

Vetiverus by Oliver & Co. 2012

Vetiverus by Oliver Valverde

Vetiverus Oliver & Co. FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Oliver & Co. give these featured accords in one line:
Labdanum from Spain, styrax, Haitian vetiver, ambergris, coriander from Russia, osmanthus absolute, orange peel, white musks, Madagascar clove

OK so the opening is a totally enjoyable smoky, greasy, green, oily, metallic, salty, grassy BOOM! A vetiver fantasy that grabs you by the scruff of the neck and gives you a gentle shake, till your teeth rattle. Astounding, fun, green cordial, raspy and smooth are all words we used to describe the opening with is vetiver squared.

vetiverus oliver+co Green Foil Will Culpepper FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

As we hit the heart Vetiverus opens up into a milky fig heart with a tickle of salt tweaking the sweet greenness. There are very faint reminders of vintage Emeraude‘s opening through the heart too and a metallic vibe that serves to oppose and highlight the creamy green fruit. Once these heart notes recede the smoke comes back and it’s a dry grassy, smoky vetiver and leather(?) drizzled over musks that fades over hours and hours to gone.

From LuckyScent: If you love the pure, smoky sexiness of vetiver the way we do, it can be frustrating to try fragrances that hide it behind other powerful ingredients in the name of “balance.” …In keeping with this philosophy, Vetiverus opens dramatically with an exquisitely deep and mysterious vetiver, at once smoky and velvety rich… Plenty of great fragrances feature vetiver. But for the true vetiver enthusiast searching for an unapologetic, uncompromising showcase of the sublimely smoky, there is perhaps no substitute for Vetiverus.

Smoke billows from an M18 green smoke hand grenade during a U.S. Marine Corps attack and defend field exercise at Kahuku Training Area, Oahu, Hawaii, May 20, 2010. The training was part of an infantry squad leader course by the School of Infantry-West, Advanced Infantry Training Battalion. (U.S. Marine Corps photo by Lance Cpl. Jody Lee Smith/Released)Photo Stolen WikiMedia

Further reading: Perfumistanns and +Q Perfume
Oliver & Co. has €110/50ml
LuckyScent has $145/50ml + samples

What is your vetiver fragrance? Have you tried the Oliver & Co Vetiverus?
Portia xx

2 thoughts on “Vetiverus by Oliver Valverde for Oliver + Co. 2012

  1. i have vintage guerlain and carven vetivers but my fav interpretation remains encre noir..to be honest, vetiver is not one of my fav. notes so i like encre noir’s earthy-inky interpretations..some say sycomore is quite like encre noir and i have not smelled sycomore and reviews make it seem like sycomore is redundant if one has encre noir, is it true?

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    • Hey Fazal,
      If you are not a huge fan of vetiver then this treatment may have you singing Halleluliah. A remarkable fragrance that ticks all the boxes for Scott & i.
      As to the Encre Noir/Sycamore debate. If you’re not a fan of vetiver then one is definitely enough. The nuance is only interesting if the note brings you joy.
      Portia xxx

      Like

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