Parfum de Peau by Jean Guichard for Montana 1986

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Post by Portia

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Heya Fabulous Fumies,

For years I thought Montana’s DNA spiral perfume bottle was too silly for words. Nothing’s changed, I still think it’s silly. OK, something has changed, now I own a bottle. It was on such deep discount recently that I could not resist. My mate Scott has waxed lyrical about the fragrance and having spent a small amount of time with a vintage mini that Gino gave me I felt it was time to forget silly and go buy the frag. My new acquisition is the modern incarnation and is quite different in the base to the original, that does change the way the fragrance wears but…..

Parfum de Peau by Montana 1986

Parfum de Peau by Jean Guichard

Parfum de Peau Montana FragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Blackberry, ginger, orange blossom, pepper, marigold, black currant
Heart: Patchouli, jasmine, rose, narcissus
Base: Leather, amber, musk, incense

First spritz opens up sharp, bittersweet, tangy, pissy and rich. The metalic/oily twang of aldehydes and screechy super sonic blackberry and black currant are further amplified by pepper and ginger which give uber sting. Eau de Paeu is big, strong, overbearing and in control, even now in its modern form. What is different for me is that the base used to ground the opening a little, give it depth and tonality, make it lush and opulent. Nowadays not so much so I end up with all this crazy treble fragrance that seems slightly artless, all the arch grandeur has made way for trashy, loud, uneducated and poorly outfitted sluttery. How the mighty have fallen.

Montana Claude Montana for Lanvin FlickrFlickr

Yet, I still love Parfum de Peau. The huge, shoulder padded, bravado does still lurk within the heart which is muted by comparison to the remarkable opening. Within 15 minutes the whole fragrance has quietened to a dull roar, only seeming less enormous because you’ve just survived a barrage, a wall of fragrance. The heart gives me the dry, raspiness of freshly ground black pepper, narcissus but a sweeter, softer, more friendly narcissus than the absolue. Also Parfum de Peau’s patchouli and leather make their appearance tempered by the flowers and vanilla. The animal which growled and howled through the original Montana has been tamed, caged, bathed and toilet trained, the tramp has become a lady in a bizarre twist of irony.

Montana Anime_Girl WikiMediaWikiMedia

Still naughty and outrageous compared to most of the 21st centuries mainstream and designer offerings and it lasts well at a lower level of hum for hours & hours. Once it hits the heart/dry down crossover there isn’t much change but merely fade.

Further reading: Now Smell This and I Smell Therefore I Am
FragranceX has AUD$66/100ml

Do you have a fave that has been reformulated but you still love it?
Portia xxx

10 thoughts on “Parfum de Peau by Jean Guichard for Montana 1986

  1. Montana, eh? I recall the original as being very 80’s and the bottle,while I did not love it, was easy to find amongst my hoard. Reformulations I love: Vent Vert, Arpege and Mitsouko. I do Not love the Miss Dior flankers. Even the so called original is lacking the oomph of the beloved Miss Dior with the recent incarnation showing very little longevity.

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  2. Hi Portia,
    I usually don’t have to deal with reforms as I have been backing up my favorites for years and have had pretty good luck finding real vintage when I need it. But a couple of years ago I was given a then current Hypnotic Poison. I think this newer one is quite good and sometimes even prefer it to my first year version. Right off the top of my head I don’t recall the differences, probably something to do with longevity and a certain tartness…
    Azar xx

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    • Hey Azar,
      That is interesting. Love that a reform could rock your boat.
      Having said that, the newest Mitsouko is fairly amazing.
      Portia xx

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  3. OMG, I loved this fragrance and went through a few bottles during the 80’s.. But I’m not sure I want to smell it again. The past is a different country.

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