Œillet Sauvage by Anne Flipo for L’Artisan Perfumer 2000


Post by Portia


Hi there Hard To Find Addicts,

There is a special place in many perfume collectors hearts for the very rare, the discontinued and the earlier iterations. Though I do have some rare birds in the collection it’s about trying the scent for me rather than owning a bottle so a couple of ml will usually satisfy my curiosity. Sometimes though the desire will bite hard and I will move heaven and earth to own the bottle, often laughing at myself for my utter lack of self control.

Today we are looking at a case in point. It was rare as hens teeth, often talked about in hushed, reverential tones and the people who loved it went to any extreme to get some. Then they rereleased it and because it had become less interesting than it originally was people stayed away, now it’s been discontinued again. I bought mine from a mate who often splits, RuthK, and she has told me it’s an older bottle from the original lot! WOO HOO! Today is my first wearing. You get to come along on the olfactory journey with me today. YAY!!

Œillet Sauvage by L’Artisan Perfumer 2000

Œillet Sauvage by Anne Flipo

Œillet Sauvage L'Artisan Parfumeur FragranticaFragrantica

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Pepper, Pink pepper
Heart: Carnation, Rose, White lily, Ylang-ylang, Aegean wallflower
Base: Cedar, Musk

Pepper & peony are how Fillet Sauvage opens for me, but pretty quickly the slang fronts up giving a creamy floral warmth. Then quite clearly through that floats carnation, that cool, fresh, powdery feel of carnations against your cheek and in your nose. It contains the light flowers and the sharp undertone. When I press my nose against the fragrance it’s much more realistic carnations, as I move away it becomes a tropical floral. It smells to me like there is some coconut and banana hidden in the depths, and palm leaves.

lartisan oeillet-sauvage carnation PDPPDP

Œillet Sauvage is quite heady through the heart, not loud or bombastic but the scent is warm and spicy. Like a bouquet that has some soft jasmine and tuberose, carnations, yang, some coniferous greenery and palm leaves. Actually, Œillet Sauvage could have been one of the early Annick Goutal scents. It has a very similar proud elegance, sultry and still prim, like there’s a vamp hiding underneath the prettiness. A tigress waiting the perfect time to pounce.

No wonder this was talked of with such reverence. It is absolutely gorgeous. What a shame its gone.

Further reading: One Thousand Scents
eBay sometimes has bottles
Surrender To Chance has modern samples starting at $4.50/ml

What is your discontinued gem? Do you love carnation?
Portia xx

18 thoughts on “Œillet Sauvage by Anne Flipo for L’Artisan Perfumer 2000

  1. Nooo – you cant tell me this is gone after such a beautiful review. I have recently come to the conclusion that Carnation is one of the notes that i adore…big time!!! This sounds like something i would love. I cant stay – i am off to search for this in some form. (I’ve always wanted to be a detective, so its ok) 🙂


    • Hey there Pats133,
      Yes, it’s a goner. Are you a member of Facebook Fragrance Friends?
      Portia xx


          • Thanks Portia. I think i may have found what i need but if that does not work out i shall ask Ruth if she will sell me a decant. Am trying not to get too excited over one note as it always depends on the arrangement of the bed it shares with others… 🙂


  2. Hi Portia,
    I’ve spent a lot of time (and money) chasing after and searching for discontinued fragrances. As a result I have little time (or money) leftover to try what is new and available Even though I am sorely tempted – as carnation is a favorite note – I will not (I say NOT) join the search for this carnation! Well, to be honest, I started to search immediately after I read your review (you are such a temptress!) and then was able to STOP! I didn’t realize my will power was so strong! If I need a carnation fix I will dig out Red Moscow, both earlier and current versions, and revel in its old school, synthetic carnation charm. The reforms of this one are similar to the older versions.
    Azar xx


    • Azar,
      That is the most wonderfully honest, and strong, story of the day.
      Great work.
      The lure of the D/C is hard top resist, why do you think I went looking? 😉
      Portia xxx


      • Yes. Portia! The lure of the D/C is hard to resist. Not only is the search challenging but, when the treasure is discovered (especially for cheap), it is such a rush! Today, though, I will remain peaceful and go out to the greenhouse and repot tomatoes. The scent of tomato leaf is luring me to the garden 🙂
        Azar xxx


  3. I did love carnation back when I was growing up on a farm, in the middle of nowhere, and sometimes on a trip to the big city department store we found the sets of three Roger & Gallet soaps. So elegantly packaged and wrapped – Rose Thé was my favorite, but Oeillet Mignardise was a close second. I kept those in my drawers (in the bureau! otherwise I’d have been oddly shaped) for years and loved them so dearly. I don’t have any carnation scents now, but do love the memory.


    • Hey there empliau,
      Ha Ha ha! In your draws. You’re hilarious.
      Great memory, thanks for sharing.
      I currently have Maja soaps in my smalls drawers.
      Portia xx


  4. For a laugh I spritzed current versions of La Chasse aux Papillons over Oeillet Sauvage. It was a pretty combination of spicy florals. Oeillet Sauvage alone smells of cloves with a powdery veil on my skin.

    I am so happy you shared your vintage adventure. Samples of Terracotta Voile d’Ete and Bellodgia take the edge off my craving for carnations.

    I have a special place in my heart for the carnation scents that were used by the women I knew in childhood, usually purchased at the drugstore or Avon, inexpensive and more wonderful than anything I’ve found since.


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