Chanel N°18 EdP by Olivier Polge 2016

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Val the Cookie Queen

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Hey APJ Peeps

It is so damn hot here I can hardly think, let alone consider how my new bottle of Chanel N°18 smells.   I had a large decant of the N°18 EdT, and I have enjoyed wearing it off and on over the last four months or so.  And then the “enjoyed” turned into an absolute “I have to have a bottle of this stuff and I know it is not available any more so let’s get the EdP immediately I have heard such good things about it” mode.

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Buying CHANEL N°18 in Vienna with B.londeswunder

Jaques Polge created the original N°18 EdT, a sparkling, bright green and crystal ambrette fragrance.  Gorgeous,  Discontinued so what’s the point ……..  In 2015 his son,  Olivier Polge took over the Old Man’s job, and becomes the head of the creation of Chanel perfumes.  His first perfume for Chanel was the lovely Misia.  I digress.  Chanel in their infinite wisdom decided in 2016 to stop with the Chanel Exclusifs EdT collection, rework them, and put them back on the shelves as EdPs.  The results?  Mostly heartbreaking.

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N°18 is kind of a weird one.  Not recognisable as a typical Chanel, not by a long shot.  I have absolutely no clue as to how I should describe it.  It is a fragrance that you have to try on the skin.  It is very dry and bitter on paper and the beautiful warmth which comes through after a while is not even hinted at.  An effortless fragrance, it makes it difficult to pick out notes, a hobby much loved by perfumistas.  It goes on, a medicinal ambrette, a vegetal and musky opening, with nuances of brandy.   Going into the heart notes a most beautiful rose reveal itself.  It could almost be called a rose scent.  Almost.  As it develops further an iris note comes into play, all the while the ambrette remaining on display.  It is effortless and sophisticated.  Something to wear for one’s self,  I would not describe it as a crowdpleaser.  It’s really quite stunning.   For those who are familiar with the EdT this shares a lot of similarities, but it is warmer and sweeter.  It also lasts a lot longer on the skin.

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N°18, a hidden gem, does not get much of love, and rumour has it that Chanel won’t make any more after this has gone.  I don’t believe rumours.  But bought my bottle just in case.   The SA was very helpful, informing us that the EdPs were the same as the EdTs, only stronger.  B.londeswunder and I rolled our eyes, as we watched a lady pay ten thousand Euros for two handbags.

Have you ever found yourself liking something for a longer period of time and having it suddenly turning into I need this shit right now?

Eighteen Bussis.
CQ

25 thoughts on “Chanel N°18 EdP by Olivier Polge 2016

    • Hi Honey. Hmmmm. I wonder why? Maybe they sold out of them and are not replacing them? If I was gonna discontinue any size it would be the 200ml. There could be a black pepper vibe, but only since you mentioned it. I’ll pay attention next wearing. I should not have worn it today, it is way too hot, but yeah, Instagram has to match the post. Art, you know? Bussis.

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  1. Happens to me all the time. My SOTD is a twofer: Oriza Le Grand’s Les Tourterelles de Zelmis (pepper, ivy, bourbon geranium, red peony, may rose, beeswax, Turkish rose) layered with Von Eusersdorff’s Classic Patchouli Balmy (myrtle, cedar, myrrh, black patchouli, tree moss, sandalwood, patchouli, musk, vanilla). Sometimes 1+1= a very definite 10. It is heavenly!!

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  2. I remember sampling no 18 with my mom in Saks Fifth Avenue in Manhattan several years ago…you should have seen her face when she sniffed it!!! LOL! I happen to like ambrette seed so it did not phase me…but I would agree that no 18 is probably not a crowd pleaser. Interesting that the EDP is warmer and sweeter. I think I would like that.

    These days I am trying very very hard not to feel like I absolutely need anything. Money is tight and I am enjoying all the lovelies I already have scattered throughout the house. Thus far I am fairly content 🙂

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    • Hi Brigitte! Yeah, the EdP is quite a lot sweeter and warmer, and I find the rose more marked. It is different enough to warrant owning both the EdT and the EdP, if you love N°18. I am sure we all have more than enough perfumes, stashed in cupboards and bags and wardrobes. I honestly buy very little,
      but cannot pretend I needed this, but I definitely wanted it. It is my second purchase this year, guilt is there, but minimal!! Hope you get a chance to try it sometime. Hugs, Val xxxxxx

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    • Hi Tara C! I wish the opening lasted much longer, same with the EdT. I had not thought of it as G&T but it is! I love the way it moves into the rose. It is a yes or no perfume I think, like it or not. I doubt there is much in-between. I am sure you have enough other stuff to keep you going!! I cannot wait until we have freezing temperatures for me tower it in. I think it will be million times more beautiful. Mwah. xxxxx

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  3. I love that we can still be overcome with the wants after being on this journey for a while and with something we’re already familiar with. It will be a sad day when that stops happening. I bet No. 18 is great on you.

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    • Hi Tara!!! It happens less and less, as we become more and more picky, and comfortable in what we already have. The thrill of buying a bottle never disappears though, maybe intensified as we do it so rarely. I know ambrette is not your thing, but try this if you do get the chance. There is a Malle Iris Poudre vibe in the drydown, another perfume that is at its best in the cold weather. Sigh. Roll on winter. This 8 weeks and more of high thirties is ENOUGH. Bussis. xxxxxxxxx

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  4. Hi Val,
    I’ve never tried neither version of No. 18 but it’s piqued my curiosity. I looked it up on the Russian Fragrantica, oh, boy: to some of the reviewers it reminds of fennel, pickle juice, whiskey, – whaaaat?! They’ve used this terminology before describing some great frags so I’ll definitely give №18 a try some day.

    As for your question, it happens to me all the time, both with the perfumes I’ve known for some time and the ones that I’ve been wanting to refresh in my memory or even try (thus quite a lot of blind-buys). I bought some Feminite du bois last week out of the blue which was a bit surprising even for me even though I’ve thought about getting a bottle for a few years. Bois de violette made me do it 🙂

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    • Hey Diana! Never believe a review. 🙂 There is a whisky/cognac/gin vibe in the opening though. I would love a bottle of FdB – and am always hoping someone will send me an original vintage bottle. Not holding my breath though. I have a large decant of Bois de Violette. Must dig it out. I am vary wary of blind buying – but sometimes you just know. Or not. Hahahahaha. Hope you get a chance to try the N°18. It is interesting, if nothing else. Bussis. xxxxxx

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  5. Hey Val,
    I’m also trying not to want stuff & watch my pennies. every now and then a bottle will come up on a sale list and I’ll grab it, but I haven’t gone perfume hunting for a while. No 18 is on my wish list though, it is fab! Nice purchase, congrats!

    Tina G xx

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  6. You like it Tina? Nice! Wish lists are great. One day. You are right about not trying stuff though, that is the best solution to saving pennies! I was in the 220° cafe today in Salzburg, with Tattoo Freddie and Hannah BlondesWunder. Your name was mentioned as we sipped out double espressos!! 😉 xxx

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  7. I made the mistake of letting the Chanel SA at Stansted spray this on paper, and it was bitter and odd as you say. They should tell their staff the best way to sample an induvidual scent maybe. Game to try it again though, and glad you love it! In answer to your question, I don’t think I have been overwhelmed by a stealth lemming, no. 😉

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    • Good Morning Mme Bonkers. Yeah – the 18 absolutely has to go on skin. It smells bitter and strange on paper, and very sweet in the cap. Something like say Coromandel is fine on paper, you get a very good idea of how it will be, but not with 18. Not at all. A stealth lemming. Hahahahahaha. xxxxxx

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  8. I love this review. I have the EDT exclusif version of this, and I just love this one. It is not a crowd pleaser as you say, it is definitely quirky. Your review is spot on about it perfect for hot days. I don’t get the rose much, but the ambrette is very forward in this. One interesting thing I have discovered is how some perfumes change over the years – even 2 and how the notes shift. I don’t know if it is my nose, but more likely the ingredients maturing. They take on a shift from the original experience, and so I’ve been remiss in this one lately. I’m pulling it out today, because I have missed it, and the weather is just perfect. Thanks Val! You have such similar likes to me, it is hilarious. I would have told you to snag this sooner, but now you have convinced me to go to Bev Hills and spray myself with the EDP before it is too late.

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  9. I usually know after trying something 2 or 3 times on skin if I like it enough to add it to my long wish list. Sometimes I find I really love a new bottle for some months, but later just find it a like, not a love any longer. I am not sure something I have known for a long time has ever turned into an acute love in the way that I cannot wait to get hold of it. On the other hand I have some scents, like Grand Bal, which I have ordered samples of multiple times while waiting for a time to get a bottle. I guess I’m more taken with many of the Dior creations than those from Chanel, too. I don’t know that I have tested No. 18 properly, but from the descripton it sounds like I would like the EDT the best, bitter does’t turn me away easily.

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