New Sniffs: 18.10.2018




Hey Hey Perfume Junkies,

The idea is that anything worthy of comment, either good or bad, that’s passed under my nose through the week will get a short write up. Up till now I have kept APJ positive comments only, those days are gone. If I think something is terrible, shamefully lazy, greedy or stupid and you should know about it, it will be said. Not everything works for everyone and it would be pretty boring if it did >>> YMMV. I’d love it if you all agree, respectfully disagree, have any thought-out opinion and want to share, do so in the comments below. The point is starting a conversation.

New Sniffs Aug 2018

Anything that I’m not keeping becomes a super simple GIVEAWAY. All comments are entered. Next week I’ll tell you who picked. If the winner doesn’t eMail me during the week it will JACKPOT to next weeks winner who will get both.

Last Weeks Winner: Tiffanie

eMail me at (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with your address please

New Sniffs: 18.10.2018

Madeleine by Parfumerie Particulière

Orange and almonds on a fluffy powdery base. If you ever loved madeleine biscuits and think they might smell amazing as a perfume then you’d be correct. Full bakery but done in a dry, non super-sweet way that steers clear of the Guerlain and candy floss tropes. 7 or more people have smelled this now at my place and for everyone it is a huge win.

Une Nuit à Montauk – Memory Motel by Une Nuit Nomade

This morning I took a look at the notes of this fragrance and was taken a bit by surprise. Last night we were all blown away by this strangely gorgeous BarBQ sauce and leather fragrance opening that had a smoothness we thought might be elemi or even labdanum. Smelling it this morning I get none of the BarBQ and loads more of the patchouli. I can smell the tobacco and vanilla and the resin was frankincense.

Mx. by Eris

Antoine Lie has again done something exquisitely beautiful for Barbara Herman at Eris. Mx. being the sign for non gender specific. Referencing old school glamour, Hollywood and fur robed glamour Mx. manages still be completely gender neutral. Not a large statement perfume it is still fragrant giving lovely wafts of woods, resins and animalics. I want a bottle of this to spritz with abandon, to create a cloud of modern retro glam.

Oud de Burgas by Santi Burgas

Oud with bells and whistles. When I spritzed this last night as the card went around the table it brought appreciative grins and purrs from everyone. The oud is a pleasant mix of decal, plastic, medicinal and earthy. Combined with its bit players of cloves, woods and balsam gives it an extra polish and accessibility. Wonderful, wonderful and wonderful. Stays interesting and oud-ish all the way to deep dry down.

Flaming Red by Santi Burgas

Fruity rose and dry iris with vanilla/amber and a restrained, soft-focus, depth creating oud. This house seems so accomplished. How are we not reading about it on every blog and FB page. The scents have excellent stories, longevity and seamless construction. This one will bring a smile to your face, it did for us.

Violetta di Murano by DSH Perfumes (oil)

Toilets with all the trimmings. I love the sheer yet hefty rendition of violet, which Dawn seems to have built up by adding other ingredients to help the violet shine. I hardly notice them but they are all working hard. Sadly the scent fades all too quickly on me and I have to reapply. Definitely worth a sniff if violet floats your boat.

Violettes du Czar by Oriza L. Legrand

A 2014 recreation of an 1862 brand original. I love that the Oriza guys are quite real about their recreations. They aim for it to smell as much like the original using modern perfumery. Pretty violets, cool and powdery held earthbound by a touch of leather and amber.

Times Square by Masque Milano

Times square is lovely but I think my collection has enough lipstick accord with Misia EdT and Lipstick Rose. Neither of which get the wear they deserve.

Mandala by Masque Milano

ALL the spice, resins and woods come together in the happiest of cacophonies. If you need to be lifted from the turbines of tedium and onto the subcontinent then Mandala is a perfect fragrant visa.This is armchair travel at its very best. The only fragrant things missing to make it really India are the dust, dung, car exhaust and humanity.


Have you tried any of these? How did they work for you?
Portia xx

48 thoughts on “New Sniffs: 18.10.2018

  1. Mx. would be totally fabulous on you, Portia.

    Now I want to try Times Square. Really admire Masque Milano and I’m still looking for my perfect lipstick perfume. Misia and Lipstick Rose were both too sweet on me, sadly.

    (DNEM, thanks).


  2. I love Legrand and have one of them on my unicorn list. I tried this one and found it to be okay at first then a love in the base but I am not willing to get a perfume if I don’t like it all the way through. On me, it was lavender and bitter in the top due to the violet leaf and tolu but a lovely, perfect violet in the base; the top and middle suck but the base is awesome.


  3. Mx and it’s modern retro glam sounds fabulous and up my alley! (I am still asking Niki de St Phalle Portia, can’t thank you enough for introducing me to that perfume),
    You had some interesting new sniffs this week! The only one I’ve sampled and loved is Times Square. I also love the lipstick genre especially Misia and Ombre Rose.
    Madeleine has piqued my interest as well, powdery!
    My new sniff this week has been Valentino Donna. In the powdery, floral, lipstick genre. Makes me feel happy! (Bonus, reasonable price at discounters but smells so luxurious).

    Liked by 1 person

        • Thanks for mentioning these, I will have to try the Valentino Donna as I like powder, too.
          Portia, of your sniffs this week, the Madeleine sounds lovely to me and Flaming Red is just too good a name to not be a good fragrance, and your review indicates just that.


      • Portia, Valentino Donna is in a studded heavy glass bottle with pink juice. It is the same bottle design as the masculine version of Valentino Uomo in the black bottle.
        You are likely thinking of the Valentina line which has the big fabric looking flowers on the bottles. Of this line, I the pink bottle is Valentina Poudre which I also love.
        Niki de Saint Phalle is a stunner! I so enjoy wearing it.


  4. Portia-I think this sort of column is brilliant and I look forward to it every week. Gotta say, though, I spat out my tea and howled this morning when I saw this typo-
    “Violetta di Murano by DSH Perfumes (oil)
    Toilets with all the trimmings.”
    Yes, I know it’s not deliberate and like you, I love Dawn and DSH, too. : )

    Liked by 1 person

  5. I’m very interested in Eris Perfumes and Mx sounds just like my cup of tea – woods, resins and animalic. Madeleine would be so nice now that the nights are getting colder.


  6. I’ve tried none of these but I’d love to try the violet-centric ones, Times Square and Mx. since it’s been on my radar for ages.

    My newest sniff is Anna Zworykina’s Revenge: leather laced with bitter herbs and flowers. If I had to choose a scent made in the same vein, it would be vintage Jolie Madame. I don’t care much for the artemisia note but the perfume is still remarkably well-made.


  7. I’m not sure why I’ve not given the Santi Burgas line a try so far. Perhaps it is the ant logo, I’m just so deathly averse to bugs. The White Collection does sound interesting and particularly Eau Dada.

    Liked by 1 person

  8. Violettes du Czar and Mx are the two I would be most interested to try. As usual I haven’t tried any of these new sniffs.

    I’ve put on my list of perfumes to try a few perfumes from the seasonal perfumes list over at Grain de Musc, so hope to be able to order samples soon!


  9. Mx is one of the rare fragrances that Mr. Marzipan commented on. First time I wore the sample he said that is smelled like a retro 80s fragrance. After that he would ask me to apply the sample when he was feeling frisky.

    The Montauk and Times Square I would love to try because they are areas that I am all too familiar with (my high school- Performing Arts- was blocks away from Times Square and I went to Montauk every summer in my young adult life).

    Madeline sounds delicious and I would love to try it as well.

    Mandala because my gravatar is a mandala.

    and I ADORE violets so that would work as well for your violet New sniffs.

    crap, P, everything sounds soooo good!!! LOL!


  10. Where can I try DSH Toilets With All the Trimmings 😂 A toilet water redolent with unexpected je be sais quoi.
    Madeleine sounds scrumptious, cuddly for the winter, with a lift from the orange. And Flaming Red for pretty much the same reason..


  11. I have not tried any from this list but from masque Milano, I think only l’atessa is my style because i love iris when done well and it has been done well in atessa.


  12. A lot of great fragrances. That Flaming Red by Santi Burgas description sounds really really good,i would love to try it. Fruity rose, vanilla/amber/oud….yammy 👌🏻


  13. Got something new to sniff today, well they’re new to me anyway. Knize 10 on right arm, yes I like this a lot. But where oh where is the leather I’m seeking? It may appear in the drydown. Left arm is PG Coze. Not sure about this. I think it’s the hemp that’s overpowering, It’s stinging my eyes a bit. I will probably enjoy it more once it cools it’s jets a bit.


  14. Thanks Portia for your reviews. Another bunch of brands I’m not familiar with. Couple from your sniffs have gone on my sample wish list – Memory Motel and Oud de Burgas.


  15. Hi Portia, Hope you are having fun. I have tried Mandala by Masque Milano. It is great. Being a smokey, balsamic, spicy fanboy there is no doubt that I love it so much. I get a bit resemblance with Laudano Nero on the drydown. But both of them are very different. I think you smell great with this one. I would love to wear it on a rainy cold night under the same blanket with my love one.

    Oud de Burgas by Santi Burgas. Hmmm. I am curious just because you guys liked it. It is hard to please western nose with OUD. I am curious.

    Times Square by Masque Milano. I haven’t try that one. But if it is similar to MISIA then, I probably pass it. I am not a big fan of lipstick note. I have 3 that carries that note. Dior Homme Intense, Valentino Uomo Intense and Misia EDP. And I am pretty happy with them. Personally I”ll not bother.


Comments are closed.