.
Portia
.
Hey Hey Perfume Junkies,
OK I’m adding a THUNKED section here too. It’s becoming an APJ obsession and I love the idea of us using our fragrances and hoiking the vial, decant or bottle. Thunk is the sound of an empty hitting the bin so you must empty it for the thunk to count.
Anything worthy of comment, either good or bad, that’s passed under my nose through the week will get a short write up. If I think something is terrible, shamefully lazy, greedy or stupid and you should know about it, it will be said. As always YMMV.
I’d love it if you get involved: agree, respectfully disagree, have any thought-out opinion and want to share, do so in the comments below. The point is starting a conversation.
New Sniffs + Thunked: 24.1.2019
New Sniffs:
L’Ombre Dans L’Eau by Diptyque
This is a funny fellow from 1983, I can’t remember ever sniffing it either. Imagine you crossed L’eau d’Issey with Perfumers Tea Rose and L’Artisan L’Eau d’Ambre. It’s a very clever, interesting beauty and I’m thoroughly impressed. I got my 10ml with a First In Fragrance order recently as a GWP.
Gothic 1 by Loree Rodkin
I have smelled this before but it dropped intro my hand from the sample box. Plastic dolls head and patchouli with vanilla. I don’t hate it but…… If memory serves me correctly, last time I tried this I quite liked it. Nope, today I don’t like it.
Aziyade by Parfum d’Empire
While I have sniffed this before suddenly it makes sense. A spicy fruit concoction over vanilla and ginger with an interesting twist through it that smells like matcha tea and chocolate. How have I passed this beauty by?
Palindrome 1 by Santi Burgas
Smoky, resinous, warm and cozy. Anna Maria would definitely wear it. Amber, so luscious. All surreptitiously wrapped in a milk chocolate coating. If you don’t have an amber or yours aren’t using it as the main note this is an excellent choice.
Fugit Amor by Jul et Mad
Oh dear, Anna Maria smells FLY SPRAY at first. HA! For me the spicy herbal opening is a reminder of the 1990s water fragrances but done in a modern way. It’s clean and classy and reminds me also of Mathilde Laurent’s work for the Cartier hours. Not particularly carnation but a nice frag reference to the dream of them.
Thunked:
Aqaba Spring
A lightly spiced fruity floral with no depth.
Black Opium by YSL
I found a few carded samples from when this first came out. One is thunked. Better than I remember. Pink pepper, white flowers and a hint of cold coffee over a modern patchouli done in the modern sheer radiant style.
Molton Brown Orange & Bergamot Mini Shower Gel
Smells lovely but only leaves the merest trace of fragrance on my body. It has made beautiful bubbles for 5 baths, as well as being my shower gel for those quick in and out moments.
Have you tried any of these? How did they work for you?
Portia xx
All your mentioned are new to me except Blavk Opium which I enjoyed sample of but not FB worthy for me. I still prefer the original Opium and La Chene flanker.
Palindrome sounds like its worth sampling, I love ambers.
I enjoy Jul en Mad fragrances and have samples several others and have a bottle of the one that smells of caramel (I can’t think of the name this moment).
I thunked a decent of Guerlain Ne m’Oublez Pas and loved wearing it so much! I wish for a bottle so much but sadly not available. I can’t even describe the individual notes; one of those fragrances that the sum is better than the notes.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Jul en Mad Nea is the bottle I have. Gorgeous and unique!
LikeLike
Hey Kathleen,
Oh yes, the original Opium walks all over all the flankers, changes, reforms and anything Opium. I’m choosing to treat Black Opium as a completely different animal.
I think they might have Ne m’Oublez Pas in extrait form in the Paris Champs Elysees store. In a quadrille bottle. You may have to sell a kidney to afford it.
Portia xx
LikeLike
Hahaha, I don’t have a kidney to sell! Champagne taste with beer money here, LOL!
LikeLike
Damnit! Wouldn’t it be nice if we could grow a couple extra for harvest?
Portia xx
LikeLike
Right? If only we didn’t need those vital organs 😉
LikeLike
Ha
LikeLike
Haven’t tried any of those new sniffs. I have thunked via confiscation Atelier Mistral Patchouli and Sens et Bois. They now live with the youngest Marzipan.
LikeLike
I bloodt love you Brigitte,
Thunked via confiscation! HA HA HA HA!
Portia xx
LikeLike
Ha ha!!! A new phrase to add to our “dictionary” on APJ! and OMG!!! P! you changed your gravatar!!!! I love it!!!
LikeLiked by 1 person
I have a travel size of L’Ombré dans l’Eau from a set (3 travel sprays, 3 mini candles). I quite like it in the summer, when I’m in the mood for plenty of green. Never took to Black Opium although I seem to have acquired another sample somehow so maybe I’ll give it another whirl.
LikeLiked by 1 person
I’ll be interested to read how you go with the Black Opium MMKinPA,
Try not to think of it as an Opium.
Portia xx
LikeLiked by 1 person
Yikes! That is hard, Portia. Opium is SUCH an iconic scent, and was an iconic bottle, that it is incredibly difficult to separate the name from this newish incarnation.
LikeLike
New to me this week: Hiram Green’s Hyde. What can I say? I’m smitten, from the raging fire opening to the softening, and long slow unfolding of the worn-smooth leather. And it’s a warm leather without being a filth bomb, and very slightly floral without trying to up the elegance a la Cuir de Russie. Bloody love it. (Thank you CQ ❤ )
Not tried any of your newbies…
LikeLiked by 1 person
I’m dying to try Hyram: it sounds like my kind of perfume (especially since you, Val and I have quite a few common favourites).
LikeLike
I suspect you’d really enjoy Hyde, Diana… you’d be ok with the fierce birch tar and smoke opening, right?
(if you can get your hands on it, it’s well worth trying even if it’s not your cup of tea.)
LikeLike
Ok doesn’t begin to cover it: I love birch tar and smoky vibe!
LikeLike
Sounds like it has your name written all over it.
We do seem to be perfume siblings…
LikeLike
AAARGGGHHH! Everyone seems to have smelled Hyde! I’m getting pretty jealous. You make it sound amazing Crikey!
Portia xx
LikeLiked by 1 person
It’s not *that* long until you’re next in Europe, right?
LikeLiked by 1 person
Thunked my bottle of L’Ombre dans l’Eau a year ago by giving it to a neighbour who loves it. I liked Gothic II a lot better than Gothic I. Aziyadé is wonderful, need to wear it again soon. Palindrome sounds great but I’ve never smelled it, not a widely distributed line.
LikeLike
Hey TaraC,
YAY! Aziyadé fan! So glad someone else loves it.
Yeah, the Santi Burgas line is small yet but they do post to the world. Their sample sets are very reasonable.
Portia xx
LikeLiked by 1 person
L’Ombre Dans L’Eau is a love. I’m not sure if it’s my favourite black currant scent but it is remarkable. I haven’t tried the rest. Portia, I appreciate and admire your honesty: “plastic doll head”! One of the reasons I stopped reading most of perfume reviews is that the top bloggers only say niceties. Except for Turin (and Sanchez). The man can be biased but at least he says what he thinks.
No new sniffs this week but I think I’ll get a fragrant package from a new perfume lover I’ve met on Instagram. It’ll be an exchange, of course, I’ll elaborate on the SOTD thread in case someone is wondering 🙂
LikeLiked by 1 person
I don’t mind a bit of the old plastic doll head myself ☺️
LikeLike
The all-nice-all-the-time reviews are so misleading. While I understand the politeness urge–to say nothing if you can’t say something nice–I sometimes wonder if too many bloggers are fishing for more freebies from perfumers by sucking up a bit.
(is this the place to have a bit of a rant about video reviews that take a first sniff of the top notes, make big happy pronouncements, and then move on to the next bottle? Probably not…)
LikeLike
HA! Otherwise the Vlogs would go for 8 hours. Some of them already seem to
Portia xx
LikeLike
hahaha. good point!
My verbose comments here seem positively pithy in comparison!
LikeLiked by 1 person
With you on both accounts: I know a few bloggers who used to be more outspoken or even harsh (when it was due) in their reviews but it’s been all sweet talk ever since the number of their followers went up and they started getting free stuff. I can’t say I judge them but this isn’t entirely right.
And don’t get me started on vloggers: most of their reviews are “oh, this smells so good, my husband/cat/neightbour will like it”.
LikeLike
Hi Diana,
What are some other black currants that you like? Did you ever try Enchanted Forest by Vagabond Prince?
YAY! Getting packages is FUN!
Portia xx
LikeLike
ADORED Enchanted Forest….my 2ml sample long thunked
LikeLiked by 1 person
Sounds like a “must-try” for me.
LikeLike
Hey Portia! Enchanted Forest has been on my radar for a while, I’m lying in wait 🙂 My other faves are In Love Again, Blouse, a Russian cologne Black Currant & Mint Leaves made by Brocard (it’s simple but very lovable). That’s it, I think. Do you have any suggestions 😉 ?
LikeLike
New for me this week are Peau Santal and Powdered Veil, neither of which blew me away. Nice enough but meh. The only one from your tryouts that I’m familiar with is Black Opium. Nope, not for me either. In fact I think they should’ve called it virtually anything other than this. I’m annoyed that they used Opium in the title tbh😠 Nobody should have messed with my beloved.
LikeLike
Yes, agreeing with you on the Opium name Cassieflower. I understand the marketing angle but it really puts me off.
Bummer you didn’t love your new sniffs this week but I bet your wallet is thrilled.
Portia xx
LikeLiked by 1 person
Wallet is delighted 😀
LikeLiked by 2 people
Gothic sounds interesting. I sampled the Black Opium, but this is only sweet coffee and vanilla for me. I wore the original Opium in the 80ies, the new version cannot compete
LikeLike
Hey Tanja,
I think anyone who loves the original Opium will be let down by Black Opium.
Portia xx
LikeLike
I wanted to like Black Opium but I barely detected any coffee note everyone talks about. Sold it within days. However, I tried two Vero’s perfumes for the first time from sample set I bought recently. Kiki is a bit challenging for my taste but Rubj is very intriguing. I will try onda and mito later. I def. plan to have at least one Vero Perfume in my collection. Even if I did not like Kiki much, I recognized the artistry in it. I hope the line does not disappear.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Good luck finding the Vero Profumos Fazal. they are sold out almost everywhere. I really hope CampoMarzio makes more.
Portia xx
LikeLike
Of your new smells this week, Palindrome sounded the most interesting….until the milk chocolate aspect is mentioned. Nothing thunked this week, however very likely to be a few next week, because during this traumatic time in my life I’ve decided to only wear samples and decants.
LikeLike
Good thinking Sally-Anne,
Best to wear things you’ll never wear again.
You don’t like chocolate in fragrance?
Portia xx
LikeLike
Haven’t come across anything I like which is chocolate dominant.
LikeLiked by 2 people
Good thinking, Saffy. Hope you’ll get through this time sooner than you even expect. Sending you warm wishes!
LikeLike
Hello Portia,
Almost your scent-twin, I was surprised at your reaction to Aqaba Spring. I’ve found that decants can flatten aldehydic florals terribly – the opening sparkle especially, and wonder if that’s what’s happened… Or maybe we just don’t “snap” on this one.
I enjoy Amouage Gold pour femme and Dia pour femme, Tommi Sooni’s Jinx, Madame Rochas, Baghari… and for me Aqaba Spring is a similarly fizzy, elegant and slightly haughty floral. (I wish the opening of Aqaba Spring could last forever!) And being an oriental floral makes it unusual among aldehydic perfumes.
The nose behind Aqaba Spring is French and I think a master of this type of perfume, in the 90’s creating for Avon (!) one of my favourite perfumes of all time. I was very poor then, and unable to buy my then-favourite Paloma Picasso. No exaggeration, men and woman stopped me every single time I wore my Avon substitute. I even blind-bought an Aqaba Spring FB a few years ago simply because he created it, and because I could no longer get his Avon marvel.
I do agree with you Portia, that the drydown of Aqabar Spring is way too thin. And it has only two phases, going in an exceedingly short and straight line from zingy lusciousness to skin-scent. (I suspect that once upon a time it was more generous and fulsome in its development.)
But I’m nearly always disappointed with the anti-climactic, powdery drydown of aldehydic florals, and reapply often just to get yet another hit of their joyous opening effervescence. And in the right weather I find that Aqaba Spring’s drydown is quite lovely. After reading your post I put it on this morning and in today’s heat (35 degrees C where I am) its gentle spiciness is still thrumming along nicely, and even occasionally wafting.
Anyway, just my thoughts and I’m sorry for my long ramble. It’s an unattractive habit of mine, whenever I feel passionately about something or other. I was excited at this opportunity to sing the praises of a skillful jobbing perfumer whose name will never be on everyone’s lips: Jean-Pierre Soubrenat.
I love your forum Portia, and your thoroughly original style.
Kerry
LikeLiked by 1 person
Oops! Bright red, embarrassed face here –
It’s Subrenat.
LikeLike
Hey Kerry,
I wonder if it’s better spritzed? The sample is a splash.
We do have a LOT of loves in common. That is so cool. I love finding a scent twin.
Portia x
LikeLike
Kerry, I thoroughly enjoyed your ‘ramble” and hope you come back to “ramble” some more 🙂 I don’t find it unattractive at all….it’s beautiful to be passionate about something, even your favorite perfume.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Kerry, it was a pleasure to read your “ramble”. Looking forward to hearing more of these from you 😉
LikeLike
Wearing a sample of Atkinson’s British Bouquet. supposedly caviar appears at some stage…I put it on only an hour ago…dislike it. Too masculine even for me. Will apply something ‘sweet’ before work in hope I will smell ok lol
LikeLiked by 1 person
When I think caviar my mind immediately goes to Womanity by Mugler. Do you like that one Sally-Anne?
Portia x
LikeLike
Womanity almost made me vomit; no not at all keen
LikeLike
Same! While Womanity doesn’t work very well with my skin chemistry, it is fantastic and unique. I hope to find a reformulation that feels smoother.
LikeLike
Only new one I tried was Flowerbomb Bloom. Too much like La Vie Est Belle edt Florale. I am keen to get to Chadstone and try some of the new designers out.
Nothing thunked, though I am ploughing through shower gels as best as I can.
Gave my mother Chanel’s Deauville and DG’s The Only One to use in hospital. So, rehomed 2 samples. She is now home and annoyingly ok.
I adore L’Ombre Dans Eau. It is pretty much on my list for this year. I still have not purchased anything. I need to get my 12 bottles sorted in order of preference.
LikeLike
I found a sample of Guerlain AA Pera Granita or whatever. Seriously the earlier AA scents had more staying power! Nice enough, no need for a bottle.
My second bottle of Tauer Amber Flush bodyoil arrived Thursday. Love this one! Also tried on Sotti la luna Tuberose. It has that menthol blast in the opening, so I find the middle best when wearing this. Also got a free sample of Tuberose from the Tauerville lineup. That’s a much easier tuberose to wear, but also less complex. Both scents project and last long enough for my liking. But note to self: Tuberose is not for use in the office.
Haven’t tried any of your new sniffs, and not sure they would fit my perfume style.
No thunking except various body products.
LikeLike