Rose & Cuir Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle by Jean-Claude Ellena 2019


Val the Cookie Queen.



Here she comes, you better watch your step, She´s going to break your heart in two, It’s true, It’s hard not to realize, Just look into her false coloured eyes, she’ll  build you up just to put you down, what a clown.  Cause everybody knows (she’s a femme fatale) The things she does to please (she’s a femme fatale) She´s just a little tease ……. The Velvet Underground 1967. 

Rose & Cuir Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle by Jean-Claude Ellena 2019

Initial impressions after four days of wearing Rose & Cuir.   Green. Bitter.  Dark.

Crushed bottle-green barbed stems.  The rose or geranium, does it matter, lays pink and dewy underneath them.   Although peppery and dark, a touch of cassis, maybe some peach, allows a sparkle.  All the while the bitter sheer haze of IsoButyl Quinoline is present.  Perhaps only JCE could work with that chemical and make it seem light.  Although an intense green and bitter leather, here it sharpens but never overpowers, and adds a sultry smokiness.  The perfume meanders into a deep virescent vetiver, the fruity rose never quite taking its leave. And as the hours progress, an exquisite powerful smokiness remains.  A perfume that is forceful yet sheer.


Top:  geranium, blackcurrant, bourbon geranium.  Middle: vetiver, cedar.  Base: leather accord.  (from the FM site) 

This is an adult perfume.  It is erotic, and fiercely feminine, and elegance pure. Bitchy with class.

Frederic Malle said in his recent presentation yes, there are thousands of roses;  there are also thousands of paintings on canvas.  Some are Picasso and some are not.  This is a new era for Jean-Claude Ellena, and this is his rose.


Pablo Picasso.  Woman in Green, Dora.  1944. 

Birch Tar Bros, can keep sipping their craft brews.  Walk on by, there ain´t nothing  to see here.

Bitchy Bussis




26 thoughts on “Rose & Cuir Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle by Jean-Claude Ellena 2019

    • It was very potently sheer on me. A good 12 hours – and just went I thought it was gonna stay with the vetiver it went into smoke mode. Maybe have 15 sprays next time. 😉 xxxxxx


      • The perfume being so unique is the best recommendation in my opinion. I can hardly remember the times when you sniffed a new perfume and nothing was similar to it. Can’t wait to try it!!!

        Liked by 1 person

          • It’s amazing, Val! On the paper strip it still smells rosey and fresh after 6 hours, on my skin it’s bitter green and the “rose” has turned slightly soapy and dark. Sheer is a better term to describe it than fresh, you’re absolutely right. Unfortunately they had no travel sprays, otherwise I’d already own it. Next time for sure. I love it!

            Liked by 1 person

            • That is totally great to hear Neva. Each time I wear it I am stunned at the technical brilliance – and the beauty it produces. I spray it kn the back of my neck so i cannot put my nose on it. The rose hovers around much longer and for me, this is the best way to smell what the perfumer intended. Watch out for A Bottled Rose‘s post on Monday. She nails the exquisiteness. Hugs. xxxx


  1. Great review Val! I spritzed twice and it was nuclear for about five hours. It then pretty much disappeared. Wonderful perfume but it wore differently on me – very masculine.
    Sandra xo

    Liked by 1 person

    • Holy shit. 100% absolutely not. This is not light. There is a sheerness, perhaps. . Could not be further away from Hermés if it tried. He also sourced some of his own material …. to extraction and into the studio. It‘s an impressive piece of work, whether people like it or not. ❤️

      Liked by 2 people

  2. Pingback: Rose et Cuir by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle | A Bottled Rose

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