Borsch, Vodka and Tears: Melbourne

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Post by Ainslie Walker

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I had an extraordinary unplanned evening on Chapel Street, Melbourne. My favorite kind of experience, where I get to learn something fascinating, enjoy a new experience and have all my senses dazzled. I was drawn in to a doorway marked by an intriguing logo painted on a shop window: “Borsch, Vodka and Tears” a few steps and I was suddenly out of the cold and in cozy Eastern Europe!

Borsch, Vodka and Tears: Melbourne

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A romantic bohemian style bar and restaurant, inspired by the cellar bars of Krakow. It represents a bygone world, specialising in Polish vodka, absinthe, Eastern European beers and Polish meals. It is a perfect place for a date.

I arrived late and eyed off the wall of vodkas on display. The owners have spent years sourcing the most unusual, historic and rare bottles exclusively importing from Poland. My interest was spiked on realizing the bottles were hand made and painted in Poland too -gorgeously bespoke…very much the same way our favourite niche fragrances reside. One bottle even had a bubble inside with a rose inside! Even the historical stories of the brands reminded me of some of the older niche fragrances houses. I had found a magical sparkling vodka apothecary!

I decided on a vodka tasting session. I was asked about my favorite drinks, smells and flavours and I handed myself over for 3 of the barman’s recommendations -very much like perfume shopping. At this point he put down on the bar, three of the cutest tiny hand cut crystal shot glasses. I will admit I wanted to steal them – of course I didn’t though!!

He then filled them with different coloured liquids – vodka! They could have been made from anything! From potato or grain, tinctures or infusions of fruit, herbs or spices and aged in woods like oak. The idea he had was to test me, as by now he knew I had an interest in guessing notes.

Here are the highlights:

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1. Piasecki Miodówka Leśna – Forest like and herbal, juniper and pine needle notes. A touch of something a little more resinous and balsamic, maybe honey. If it were perfume think Dior La Collection Couturier Parfumeur – Granville with its pine, citrus, pepper and herbal gorse notes rounded by sandalwoods and even some elements of Gucci by Gucci Sport – cypress, juniper and a touch of musky ambrette seed

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2. Ja-GoPrzepalanka – All natural organic artisanal vodka featuring burnt sweet caramel notes, like the top of a crème brulee but with the alcohol strength being enough to really warm the throat. Smooth and deliciously addictive!

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3. Miodula Prezydencka Lezakowana was the highlight for me I tasted smoked beeswax predominantly, along with the taste of wild honey, smoked pine needles and oak wood. Only 4000 bottles are made a year, all filled by hand, with 500 reserved as diplomatic gifts for Poland’s president. Bottles are all hand numbered with batch information also handwritten. The recipe is from 1772. I need a full bottle of this exclusive juice!!!!

Next visit I want to try Soplica Staropolska the menu says: Honey, Walnut, Clove With Jasmine And Lilac Notes. Aged In Oak Then Bottled In Hand Painted Decanters.
How does that not sound like a must try perfume to you? How do you like your vodka?

Ainslie Walker x

Move On Monday Club

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Post by Holly

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Hiya APJ gang!

I have formed a club, and I’m recruiting members! There are no requirements, no dues to be paid, no meetings and your participation is gonna be mostly in your own head! That’s where most things start anyway, right? You don’t even have to declare your membership. In fact, I will now assume that you are all members of The Move On Monday Club. Welcome!

Move On Monday Club

No doubt you’re wondering “what the hell does this have to do with perfume?” Good question! You see, over the last year I got myself into a pickle with my um, sincerely enthusiastic purchasing of perfume samples. I had my reasons, but now it’s time to move on. No whining, cringing, hand-wringing, sobbing, reviews of my PayPal account, denial or regret. So I’m hoping you’ll help me out. My Move on Mondays are my way of dealing with thoughts, feelings and things that have been lurking in the depths and need to be addressed. I like the alliteration, and the mindset helps set the tone for the week for me.

Frag Samples 2015

I have more than 300 samples. All from the last eighteen months. Yep, I went apeshit crazy! Then suddenly, about six months ago, I became overwhelmed. I stopped opening the Olfactif boxes and envelopes from decanters and so on and so forth. I kept ordering. I’d get to it. Then, I put the boxes in a huge box, and envelopes in giant trash bags, and tossed them into closets. Nut job! Move on.

Now I know that there are many people who have tons of samples and are comfortable with that. I personally am not. For a while, I created an image of The Sample Sea, where my samples are gently drifting in and out, and I thought that eventually I’d surf the sea and accept whatever drifts along my way. That has been a comforting image for a while, but now the sirens are singing and the samples are hissing and spitting and demanding attention. The Sample Sea is a gyre, replete with plastic bags, paper envelopes, cardboard boxes and detritus.

Frag Samples 2015a

So what I’d like to know is what is your perfume sampling journey like these days?
Do you have a clear sense of your style and prefer to stick with it? Has it been consistent?
Do you like to experiment and will try almost anything?
Do you consider what you have to be a collection, or kinda willy-nilly?
Do you plan your purchases?
Do you organize your samples?
How do you sample? Do you pick one at a time, or five or ten?
Do you have a yes, a no, and a maybe pile?

How do you decide what is full-bottle worthy? Do you have particular requirements such as price, sillage, longevity, consistency from the top notes through the dry down?

Some popular Sample Sites include: Surrender To Chance, Posh Peasant, My Perfume Samples

Them there’s a lotta questions! Whew! I hope this doesn’t look like homework, and that you’ll enjoy sharing some of your insights. Thank you in advance.
Love and hugs to all,
Holly xo

Surrender To Chance GIVEAWAY WINNER

Thank You APJ,

What a wealth of great feedback. You are the best and I have read and read again your comments.

Stars_Gift_Certificate SmartDraw

Our winner of the $50 Surrendeer To Chance GIFT VOUCHER is LENA

Please get in touch Lena with your email address to: portia (underscore) turbo (at) yahoo (dot) com (dot) au and I’ll send your voucher

THANKS,
Portia xx

10 Things That Are So Sydney It Almost Hurts: Turbo Trivia hits the TOP 10

Hey there APJ,

This week we had something super extraordinary happen. You may know that I run other businesses beside Australian Perfume Junkies (though APJ remains largely a labour of love it is a business) and one of those businesses is an event company called Turbo Trivia. In Australia the game Trivial Pursuit was a very popular board game and from that pubs & clubs started hosting versions of the game in-house as a great way to get families and groups of friends into their venue for 3 hours. They eat & drink and spend some quality time that by-passes all the angst of family because everyone is focused on a game and eating. It’s amazingly popular here and at least every second hotel has a trivia night.

Portia poster_new2_LRBack in the first couple of years of this century my life as a showgirl seemed to be slowing down and while looking for a sideways step to keep me employed I had the idea to bring the trivia format to a gay crowd. It all seemed like a simple and fun idea that, if successful, could keep me working in my chosen career (DRAG) until I died. Well, it has been very successful, interestingly the concept works for all groups gay, straight & inbetweenies, and now I have 3 girls working regularly as well as myself. It’s a great way for newer girls to learn microphone skills and how to manage a room and we are also constantly in demand at Fundraising Events and Work Functions. The dream is to have 20 Turbo Trivia nights running weekly in Sydney and we are half way there.

If you’re reading this and you’d like Turbo Trivia in your venue or for your function get in touch. We also sell weekly Q&A if you’d like to host your own event. portia (underscore) turbo (at) yahoo (dot) com (dot) au

Please click on the link below to read our most fabulous write up ever. To say I was blown away is the understatement of the year. It was a surprise and a complete delight to be featured in this article alongside so many Sydney Icons that I personally love.

10 Things That Are So Sydney It Almost Hurts

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Salvidor Dali + Rosa sur Reuse by Liz Zorn for SOIVOHLE

Hi there APJ,

Two of my favourite things are art & fragrance. Today when I chose my scent it was Rosa sur Reuse that I reached for. I was pretty liberal (3 to chest and 1 to hair) and now I am sitting in a fragrant cloud that immediately made me think of the surreal works of Salvador Dali. There is something perfectly surreal and new every time I wear it and it’s much like rediscovering Dali’s works every time you come across them, the absolute surprise at his perfectly poised rendering of the bizarre, shocking, humorous and strange.

Rosa sur Reuse is beautiful and completely other-worldly, it is enticing and borders on the edge of way too much yet always remains perfectly blended and disarming. I think that because Liz Zorn is an artist too, that she feels things in an artistic way could be why my mind jumps to art when I’m wearing her creation. That she takes the same palette of notes as every other perfumer and creates this magical scent, something that speaks to me and moves me from such a physical primal level all the way to my art infested brain is prett incredible. Rosa sur Reuse always feels like an old friend and a new love.

So though I’ve talked about Rosa sur Reuse before I really wanted to record my joy today and share it with you.

Salvador Dali

Salvidor Dali Galatea of the Spheres WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

Salvador Dali Lincoln_in_Dalivision WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

Salvidor Dali The Burning Giraffe WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

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Rosa sur Reuse by Liz Zorn for SOIVOHLE 2012

Rosa Sur Reuse SoivohlePhoto Stolen SOIVOHLE

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Tuberose, red rose, red berries, parma violet, jasmine, lily, lilac, orchid, oakmoss, vanilla, woody notes, musk

Sadly Liz has discontinued Rosa sur Reuse but I stockpiled a whole load of it and feel able to spritz with abandon. It’s a peculiar, particular joy when you spray a fragrance that was never a mainstream blockbuster because the chances of finding more are so slim. So when I do wear Rosa sur Reuse I feel as if I am gifting myself this joy, a real gift to myself that takes little more than the press of a nozzle and a deep breath.

Do you have a fragrance that works like this for you?
Portia x

INSPIRED! + Surrender To Chance

Hey there APJers,

Life is happily hectic and the house has most of my attention. There just does not seem to be enough time in the day, though fortunately I am managing to stay afloat. Hopefully you all are coping, if not take a moment to be still and listen to yourself in this moment. You really do know what’s best for you.

INSPIRED!

Not so very long ago though I was reading one of my all time favourite blogs and the piece was so involving and interesting. How your head can work while trying to be involving and engaging. We at APJ are verystructured because I really like that format and it means you can drop in at any time (day or night, ballgown or suit, bus, work, home, in between courses at dinner, just about any time you have 5 minutes) and get a quick fragrant fix from a wealth of voices across the globe.

Thinking_Man WikiMediaPhoto Stolen WikiMedia

Here though is a piece that really made me think about what we do. I will need some more percolation time but it has caught my attention.

Jump across to I Smell Therefore I Am and have a read, I’d LOVE to know what you think about the piece and how YOU feel it relates to APJ. We are all good for constructive criticism and I want this to be a place everyone feels welcome and has something here to capture and hold their attention.

Surrender To Chance GIVEAWAY

One lucky commenter will receive a $50 Surrender To Chance GIFT VOUCHER to be drawn on Sunday night 10pm Australia EST and they will be chosen by random.org

Go for it crew,
Portia xx

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ETERNITY NOW Calvin Klein: New Ad

Hey hey Crew,

When I was a younger person Calvin Klein always had a great diffusion line of clothes. I would often choose a Calvin Klein T-Shirt, jumper or belt and his frags were what my friends wore. I loved to smell them and really liked the advertising etc but never did I think I wanted to wear the Calvin Klein fragrant dream. To be honest a part of me was a little sneery at their oh-so-mainstream tastes. It’s only now, when everyone has moved on from the scents that I am finding my way to wearing them. NOW I really like a whole bunch and they bring back fabulous fragrant memories of friends long gone, and some still in my circle who don’t smell like this anymore.

Eternity Now Ad Calvin Klein FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Here is a NEW Eternity flanker

Eternity Now For Women by Calvin Klein 2015

Eternity Now For Women by Ann Gottlieb

Eternity Now For Women Calvin Klein FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Litchi, quince sorbet
Heart: Peony, peach blossom, neroli petals
Base: Cashmere, ambrox, musk

I hope you enjoy the ad, which uses one of my favourite songs from Aussie band INXS.
Portia xx

ETERNITY NOW Calvin Klein

Bergamoss by Mandy Aftel for Aftelier 2015

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Post by Poodle

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I love listening to the rain on a summer night. I love the morning after even more. I often step outside in the morning and just take a few deep breaths. In those early moments I feel as though I can smell all of nature. The sun begins to peek through the clouds, everything is still wet, and the summer warmth amplifies all the aromas. I can smell all the lush green leaves. The loamy wet soil smells fresh and new. There’s a damp, mossy smell but it’s like the rain has washed away that mustiness that you sometimes smell on hot, humid days. Instead the air is sweet and fresh. I can smell flowers but the rain has almost blurred their scents. As the sun rises higher things begin to warm and dry. Slowly the aroma of warming woods and earth pushes through the fresh green of the morning. I decide it’s time to step away from the quiet beauty of the morning and get started with my day.

Bergamoss by Mandy Aftel for Aftelier 2015

Bergamoss Aftelier FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, wild sweet orange
Heart: Peach, citronellol, nutmeg
Base: Oakmoss, flouvre absolute, coumarin, antique civet

That’s what I thought of when I smelled Bergamoss for the first time.

Bergamoss is the latest release from Mandy Aftel. I admit when I saw it was a chypre I was worried. Often they leave me smelling like I’ve spent too much time in a damp cellar. Not so with Bergamoss. It’s mossy, lush, bright and green, with just enough warmth and earthiness to keep it interesting. Bergamot and orange give it sparkle. Citronellol from scented geraniums gives the fragrance that herbal yet slightly rosy scent the plants are known for. Nutmeg and civet add depth and keep things from smelling too clean and oakmoss adds that classic chypre complexity.

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Bergamoss is beautifully blended. Yes, you can pick out notes but the overall effect on me is a soft blur of scent. Longevity might be an issue. One would need to reapply through the day I think but this is a solid perfume and one of the joys is in the application. Unlike a spray you choose exactly where to anoint yourself with it. Also, like most fragrances in that format, it’s not something that’s going to project across the room. I would say it’s more of a personal scent. The only people that would smell this on me are those I allow to get “thisclose”.

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Knowing my love of big perfumes I was shocked to find myself happily huffing my wrist not caring that I wasn’t sharing my fragrance with the world. Sometimes you just don’t want to share and just want to be alone with your thoughts. Bergamoss is a scent of quiet beauty. It’s not going to shout to be heard. It has plenty to say but you need to take a quiet moment to listen.

Further reading: Now Smell This and I Scent You A Day
Aftelier has Bergamoss from $6

Do you wear solid perfumes? What’s your favorite perfume for quiet moments?
Poodle xx

Maremma by Paolo Terenzi for Tiziana Terenzi 2013

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Post by Trésor

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There are a few occasions…let’s face it…many occasions where instead of craving restrained grace or meticulously polished oeuvre I want to smell of everything; all the notes, all the flowers, all of them and right now. Every once and a little while I will be perusing the online shops and come across a potion with a labyrinthine list of notes and my heart goes aflutter, my resolve all but disappears and without warning I have a blind bought bottle of some mystery fragrance with a bazillion notes to positively douse myself in upon it’s arrival. My most recent discovery has been a little potion from the Italian house of Tiziana Terenzi that goes by the name of Maremma, otherwise known as the next stop on my journey to unapologetic fragrant hedonism.

Maremma by Tiziana Terenzi 2013

Maremma by Paolo Terenzi

Maremma Tiziana Terenzi FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top:
Bitter Bergamot, Ylang-Ylang, Jasmine, Black Currant, Holm Oak Acorn
Heart: Angelica, Orris Root, Agarwood, Lotus Wood, Cumin, Honey
Base: Patchouli, Cocoa Powder, Sandalwood, Cistus Labdanum, Amber Crystals, Rosewood

The opening sequence of Maremma is a story of luxuriant, utterly unctuous cocoa bathed in the glimmering chartreuse radiance of a rather full-bodied bergamot. The cocoa is sweet, but not deliriously so, pirouetting gracefully as an haute confection rather than weighing the composition down or making it register as exceedingly opaque. The florid, almost banana-like creaminess of ylang ylang along with her intrinsic powderiness infuses the atmosphere, veiling the composition in a scintillating gossamer haze of delicate, flavescent powder. The subtle subversion of agarwood and velvet patchouli lurk beneath, never truly allowing Maremma to reach the point of effervescence, instead working harmoniously to temper a degree of saccharinity which might otherwise seem overwhelming.

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Ascending from the murky depth of these two notes is a glorious bouquet of buttery iris and silken jasmine, each releasing their precious aroma in tender undulations; adding yet another fragrant layer to this beguiling brew. The delectable stickiness of blackcurrant jam alongside just a kiss of glistening, aureate honey affords a particular density to the composition; an effortless marriage and flawless synchronicity. As the composition begins to dry down the creaminess observed in the incipience begins to intensify and is joined by delicate tendrils of clean skin musk and a crystalline vision of amber. It is this stage of the fragrance that happens to be my favourite and luckily (for me, at least) it’s the one that lasts the longest. A gentle hologram of palisander and sandalwood flickers in the distance and the ghosts of what came before radiate their blessings down softly down from above. This impeccably cozy aura lasts and lasts (and lasts) until finally it fades into all but nothing.

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When it comes to sillage Maremma’s got it in the bag, it is an extrait de parfum packaged in a spray atomizer so you can just imagine the sort of projection you would get with something like this. It’s not so dramatic that they’ll smell you in the next city over but it’s most certainly not the first thing I would reach for if subtlety were my endgame. The longevity with Maremma is out of this world; I could still detect it on my skin 24 hours after my initial application. That’s pretty freaking phenomenal if you ask me, especially for someone who’s skin eats perfume like it’s breakfast.

Maremma Tiziana Terenzi Kitchen Sink GeographPhoto Stolen Geograph

I would urge you to give Maremma a go if you’re the sort who is into densely populated fragrances or have affection for things like Tom Ford’s Black Orchid, Van Cleef and Arpel’s Precious Oud or even Dior’s Poison. I think you may just find yourself with a brand new lemming if you do.

Further reading: The Scented Apprentice
LuckyScent has $145/100ml
First In Fragrance has €135/100ml

So, my darlings, what are your favourite everything-but-the-kitchen-sink fragrances?

Until next time,

Trésor xo

Kiki by Vero Kern for Vero Profumo (EdP, VdE, Ex)

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Post by Val the Cookie Queen

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Lavender? Free Your Mind.

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KIKI Eau de Parfum 2010
KIKI Voile d´Extrait 2013 All by Vero Kern.
KIKI Extrait 2007

A Tale of Two Kikis

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The first Kiki in my life was Jack’s pet parrot from Enid Blyton´s “Adventure” series. Kiki is a standard feature in each novel providing both comic relief and as a saviour from tight situations. Kiki has an enormous reserve of phrases and strange noises. I loved these books and they remain a part of an England that once was. The illustrations were done by Stuart Tresilian a British artist and illustrator. Along with Blyton´s Adventure Series he also illustrated Rudyard Kipling´s Animal Stories and a Mowgli stories. This is not the Kiki referenced for Vero Kern´s three Kiki fragrances.

Vero Kern Kiki Vero Profumo 2015Photo Donated Vero Kern

Vero Profumo´s Kiki is named as a tribute to Alice Ernestine Prin (1901 – 1953), most often known as Kiki de Montparnasse. Embracing the single name “Kiki” she became a fixture in the Montparnasse social scene in Paris and popular artist´s model. She gained experience when she was only fourteen, posing nude for sculptors. Her companion for most of the 1920´s was Man Ray, the American photographer and painter. Kiki is such a fascinating woman I can only encourage you to take some time to discover her.

Kiki by Vero Kern for Vero Profumo

Kiki – A Sorcerer’s Lavender

CQ Vero Milan 2013 #2Vero & Val

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Citruses, Lavender oil, Black currant
Heart: Lavender absolute, Geranium
Base: Patchouli, Cedar, Opoponax, Caramel, Musk

Kiki was the last of the Vero Profumos to creep its way under my skin, but the first bottle to be emptied. More than half way through the Voile and on the second Extrait. I hate lavender. But there are exceptions to every rule. Forget every preconceived idea of lavender and free your mind.

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KIKI EdP. Sensual. Erotic passion fruit. Desirable. Voluptuous. Green lavender whipped into a caramelized patchouli. Luscious. Absolutely fabulous.

Kiki Voile d`Extrait Vero Profumo FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

KIKI Voile d’Extrait. Seriously beautiful. Elegant. Uplifting. Self assured. Revitalizing. Velvety. Amethyst lavender. Related but quite different to the EdP.

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KIKI Extrait. Intimate. Warm. Royal purple lavender. Musky. Opoponax whisps. A hint of amber making it denser than the Voile. Magnificent.
(It is to be noted that the Voiles although sharing most of the Extrait DNA – are not quite the same. Not all secrets are shared. )

Further reading: Smelly Thoughts and Chemist In A Bottle
Bloom, First In Fragrance and LuckyScent all carry Vero Profumo
Surrender To Chance has Kiki EdP & Extrait

These are not your grandmother´s lavender bag.

Kiki Vero ProfumoPhoto Donated Val

Have you tried the Kiki range? Do you have a lavender you love?

Violaceous Bussis.
CQ