Beards, Bloggers, Bloom and Vero + Photo Essay

July 28, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 37 Comments

Post by Val the Cookie Queen

Salzberg to London to Innsbuck. A crazy perfumed week. In pictures.

It really is too warm here in the middle of Europe to write much. Looking at pictures is less strenuous. And by warm, I mean hot. Yesterday was 40 degrees in Vienna and my flip-flops stuck to the hot pavements.

Beards, Bloggers, Bloom and Vero + Photo Essay

I went to London with Hannah, sometimes known as The BlondesWunder. The trip was documented by Tara on our favourite Olfactoria´s Travels, and by Pia on the wonderful Volatile Fiction. After returning from England, I drove to Innsbruck with my trusty therapist Dr. Fox for a lunch date with Vero Kern. I will share a few of our photos.

Sazburg Airport. Heading to London.

Met straight off the train by Antonio Gardoni of Bogue. Whisked off for lunch.

Talking with Oxsana of Bloom Perfumery.

Antonio explaining the secrets of MAAI at Bloom Perfumery in Covent Garden.

Ummm, NO

Bloom. Spitalfields. I was there with Portia and Michael.

Pia´s perfume guests!

The whole bunch of perfumista nerds in Fortnum and Mason

Perfume Candy Boy, Tara and me.

Innsbruck. Lunch with Vero and Isi.

I am grateful for the perfumed friendships I have formed. They enrich my life and add a vibrancy that would otherwise be missing.

Where do you dream to travel to meet perfumistas or do you already have stories? PLease share in the comments.

Thankful Bussis
CQ

Sex Panther Cologne by Romane 2008

July 27, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 28 Comments

Post by Azar

Warning! This is NOT a review.

Hello APJers,

I just have to say it: There are way too many perfumes out there! The old ones never die and news ones seem to be born every six hours or so. The world is overpopulated with fragrance creations and, like the human population, the creation of perfumes seems to be out of control and perhaps even threatening the world as we know it. (Only part of my tongue is in my cheek.)

Can we be too productive? Yes I think we can and we are, in the real world and in perfume land. Many of us, myself included, in an effort to keep up with current trends, have amassed hundreds (if not thousands) of samples and huge collections of perfume. The passion for perfume is a most interesting habit in that the perfumista not only collects a thing but collects an experience as well. While collecting is fun and not inherently bad there is a tipping point where people begin to lose interest. To prevent market saturation perhaps IFRA should intervene and limit every perfumer or company to the production of one new fragrance – and one new ad campaign – per year? The resulting unused creative energy might be redirected toward solving the planet’s truly serious problems.

I, for one, have become so jaded and overloaded that it takes something very different to sell me a fragrance. Exclusivity does not have the appeal of, well, a rat’s ass and I have come to be inured to the images of gorgeous lithe bodies, the suggestions of power, fields of flowers, bouquets of roses, images of the sea that populate today’s video and prints ads. However…a couple of weeks ago, while working on my last post, I came across something that so piqued my interest that I almost fell victim to a new kind of clever advertising. I discovered the world of officially licensed movie and TV fragrances, in particular Sex Panther by Romane.

Sex Panther Cologne by Romane 2008

Sex Panther Cologne: The Un-Review

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Juniper
Middle: Lavender, musk
Base, Cedar, sandalwood

Sex Panther is a scent created as a pendant to a scene in the 2004 comedy Anchorman. The scene in the movie does a fabulous job of mocking the advertising and pretense associated with fragrance.

The video ads for the perfume take up where the movie left off and use comedy and novelty to sell what seems to be a rather ordinary fresh, woodsy fragrance.

After enjoying the Sex Panther fun I found that the television series Star Trek had also officially licensed several fragrances, namely Tiberius, Red Shirt, Sulu and Pon Farr. This was a whole new smelly universe that I had never imagined existed, but despite the promise of Pon Farr, I decided not to boldly go there and, in the future, try to avoid splitting infinitives whenever possible.

Now dear APJ pals, here are a few things that this inquiring mind would like to know: Do you think there are too many perfumes out there? Is there such a thing as the danger of over production? Have you experienced Sex Panther or any officially licensed fragrance related to a movie or TV series?

“Live long and prosper.” and remember that “60 % of the time it works every time!”

Azar xx

You’re welcome. Portia XXX

Stealing Your (BOY) Friends Beauty Products

July 26, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 5 Comments

Post by AF Beauty

These past couple of weeks I have had a couple of sleepovers at a friend’s house. I had packed a bunch of stuff I thought I’d need, make up bag, sample sizes of facewash and moisturiser but when I had to have a shower I was empty handed and had to take pot luck with whatever was in his shower. Luckily, my friend is a bit fanatic about his appearance, so I didn’t think I would be washing with Fairy liquid or Morning Fresh! But still, it was like being thrust into the unknown, so I thought it would make an interesting post!

Stealing Your (BOY) Friends Beauty Products

First of all I needed shampoo. I found Aveda’s Clove Shampoo. I like the fresh smell of this shampoo so I placed a blob in my hand and applied. It lathered well but I felt when it rinsed away my hair wasn’t smooth. Honestly, I never know whether I should have smooth hair after shampooing or only after conditioner. I just know I’m not keen on that rough feeling some shampoos leave. And this was one of them.

So with my hair feeling a bit booffee I reached for conditioner and had a brief moment of panic that as a man with short hair he wouldn’t have conditioner. But I found QV Hair Conditioner. It comes in a giant pack, I squeezed some out, the texture was very much like moisturser, odd! I applied across my hair and left it in for a few minutes. Overall, it rinsed off well and my hair felt much smoother and I had a giant relief that I wasn’t going to have haystack hair the next day!

While the conditioner was left in, I then went looking for shower gel. I found on the floor a large container of QV Body Wash. I squeezed a couple of pumps from the pot and washed – I was actually very impressed by this. I usually go for things that smell nice when choosing shower wash so I wouldn’t have picked this myself. It lathered well and just a couple of pumps from the container was enough to wash me. Afterward my skin felt nice and clean and soft. I am actually going to buy my own one of these today!

Lastly, I was in the shower straight after work, so I was in a day’s worth of make-up and in searching for all the other products I found QV Face Exfoliating Polish – so I squeezed a bit of that and washed away. I loved the texture of this, creamy but exfoliating, when I finally washed away my skin felt lovely and clean and soft. But in the back of my mind, I was having doubts about the exfoliating ingredients. I double checked today and found it contains plastic microbeads. I like the texture of the beads, but I can’t live with myself knowing that washing my face is damaging the environment, so as much as I liked it, I wouldn’t knowingly buy this. Sad.

Do you ever have to make use of someone else’s beauty product choices? Ever found exciting gems?!
AF Beauty xx

If you want to know more about plastic microbeads, campaigns to remove and details of products without plastics, this site has some good stuff.

Hiris by Olivia Giacobetti for Hermès 1999

July 26, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 6 Comments

Post by Anne-Marie

Often on a Sunday afternoon after a busy weekend I wind down with a bath and a book. The fragrance for afterwards has to be gentle and subtle to keep me content for the evening, before a new week cranks up again. At the moment, Hermès Hiris is the perfect accompaniment to this ritual.

Hiris by Olivia Giacobetti for Hermès 1999

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Coriander, amber, iris, carnation
Heart: Iris, neroli, rose
Base: Honey, vanilla, cedar, almond tree

What works for me in Hiris is the contrast of cool and warm notes. Cool iris is dominant all the way through but is warmed and made easeful by spices (I love the coriander in the opening moments), and the subtlest touch of vanilla later on. (If there is honey in there I don’t perceive it unless it’s that touch of skin-alike sweetness in the base.) I don’t get the ‘carroty’ note in Hiris that other people notice. Earth certainly, but I smell no carrots. Hiris is dreamy and remote, but it likes you. Hiris wants to settle on your skin and stay there.

Photo Stolen WikiMedia

Other iris fragrances vying for our attention on the department store shelves, such as Prada’s Infusion d’Iris and Chanel’s No 19 Poudré, combine iris with gigantic quantities of pillowy white musk, but Hiris retains a dewy clarity that has nothing to do with musk. Neither the Prada or the Chanel appeal to me. Initially I loved No 19 Poudré but the musk was just too … well … dull. And I have trouble smelling Infusion d’Iris.
What bothers me sometimes in Hiris is a kind of musty soapiness. ‘Clothes washed in unscented fabric softener’ is how Luca Turin describes it, and while I would not go that far, I do see what he means, unfortunately.

Photo Stolen Hermès

I’m fine with Hiris not being a statement fragrance. To my mind Hiris is Hermès’ contribution to the 90s style of uncomplicated fragrances that seek only to make us feel clean and smell good. Thankfully it’s not as dated as many others in this genre. If the sillage is only moderate, Hiris veils beautifully. People will sense rather than really know that there is a lovely fragrance nearby.

Photo Stolen Wikipedia

Although the soapiness prevents me from loving Hiris, I persevere. I wear it out, wear it at home, wear it to bed. Where I live it’s winter, so who knows? Maybe Hiris will work better in warmer weather. I spray generously. It’s the best way to get to know a fragrance. Luckily I picked up my bottle at very little cost via local online classifieds, and it’s got about 60mls left, so I don’t have to be frugal. Mine’s the deep blue bottle. I’ve not seen the new one; do comment if you have compared them.

Further reading: Non Blonde and Olfactoria’s Travels
Hiris can be found at Hermès online and all Hermès stores
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $3/ml

Do you have a favourite quiet fragrance for those in-between times, when you just want to smell good to yourself?
‘Til next time, keep spritzing!
Anne-Marie xx

Jersey Parfum by Jacques Polge for CHANEL 2014

July 23, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 10 Comments

Hello to my fellow fumeheads!

Today, I am zeroing in on a breathtaking parfum that surprised me when I sniffed it in person. Last year, I wandered into Boston’s Chanel boutique with fragrance friends, eyes sparkling with delight in the luxe venue. I went in with laser focus, intent on purchasing Chanel No. 22 parfum from the Les Exclusifs line. I then went on to sniff the other boutique-exclusive offerings, and was shocked to fall in love with:

CHANEL Jersey parfum Les Exclusifs de Chanel

CHANEL Jersey parfum by Jacques Polge

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Lavender, musk, vanilla, wildflowers, grass, rose, jasmine and tonka bean

Wearing Jersey today, I sense a spark of clean lavender, awash in the white-hot rays of the solstice sun. The meadow rolls over tumbling hills, emeralds and amethysts glistening as far as the eye can see. Freshly laundered sheets billow crisply on a clothesline, as signature Chanel aldehydes pierce the air. The lazy breeze carries these cool, soothing fragrances like a drifting song, the hollow tones of a silver flute choir.

And yet, although my visions glow beneath the brightest sunbeams, Jersey is an evening fragrance for me. It is a scent for a quietly classic night on the town, freshly showered and dolled up in a favorite new dress and a string of pearls. I strongly associate lavender with the cold light of the stars, as I often use it for sleep aromatherapy. However, as it joyfully dances among distinctive aldehydes and a waft of rose petal, this lavender is calm and graceful, not sleepy.

Photo Stolen WikiMedia

From CHANEL: Jersey had only been used for sailors’ sweaters and men’s undergarments until, in the 1920’s, Mademoiselle Chanel made it the instrument of a new elegance for women. Like Mademoiselle, Jacques Polge has also revealed the chic and feminine treasures of a material considered to be masculine and modest: lavender. He has chosen an exceptional essence and given it the sensuality of musk and the delicious richness of vanilla. And so it is that lavender has been transfigured and become deliciously sophisticated. Successfully transformed, it has lost its masculine connotations.

Photo Donated Erica

Further reading: Bois de Jasmin and A Model Recommends
CHANEL Les Exclusives are available at CHANEL online or larger department stores
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $8/.25ml

Have you tried any Chanel Exclusifs? Do you have a favorite? Let’s dish!

Scented hugs, Erica

Sarrasins by Christopher Sheldrake + Serge Lutens 2007

July 22, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 13 Comments

Post by Liam

Sarrasins: A severe perfume.

There are a lot of noir scents on the market. Or better put, there are a lot of noir flankers on the market. Tom Ford’s Noir, Chanel’s Coco Noir, and Van Cleef and Arpels’ Cologne Noire to name a few fumes.

The word noir, whether it’s used to mod a title or used as a title on its own really fascinates me.

On one hand, noir and nuit go hand-in-hand and evoke feelings of a cool and steely midnight in winter. On another, noir seems to be a term impetuously placed on labels as it suggests a darkened fragrance that is largely more severe.

Unfortunately, this is not the usual case. Coco Noir is described as a ‘nocturnal baroque scent’ … with grapefruit?! No no no. That’s not noir. That’s a flirtatious teen girl late at night.

Sarrasins by Serge Lutens 2007

Sarrasins by Christopher Sheldrake + Serge Lutens

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Blossoms
Heart: Carnation, jasmine
Base: Musk

Sarrasins is noir. True noir. Sarrasins wraps me in its beauty and then strangles me gently. A metallic note opens floating ephemerally at the top of the overdosing of rich moreish jasmine. I suspect a drop of aldehydes lifts the fragrance and adds some initial space in the beginning, as the narcotic flower begins to bloom on the skin. This effect, a floral dipped in a touch of something artificial, reminds me of Serge Luten’s masterful Tuberuse Criminelle where a scene plays out on the skin as a murder occurs in a room full of tuberose flowers. This almost bloody accord is further tweaked with something undeniably clean – a Luten’s style musk note; camphoraceous and cool.

From here, the jasmine reveals itself emerging like a spike from the skin. It poses danger but never cuts as it is placated with its innate white floral creaminess. Thus its sweet and indolic moments are to be expected and these are spiced with a carnation note that recalls many early vintage scents I have smelled before. Despite the linear nature of the scent, the jasmine note pulls itself down into darker regions. It sways between dead and alive like flowers limply wilting and wrinkling like old leather.

‘Warm’ is best used to describe this stage, underscored with a majestic leatheriness and animalics as the jasmine showcases its green facet – here we find resolution between two clashes that learn to exist together in harmony. The sweetness now comes off as fruity and herbal, yet it appears to forever colour itself nostalgically purple and melancholically grey with its impossibly dusty undertones.

So, a noir scent like Sarrasins recalls something tender, tragic and emotionally palpable. Longing but not obtainable. It’s everything you expect from the Serge Lutens’ aesthetic and the noir labelling, a style of fragrance possessed only by truly the most exhaled scents. Anyway, evil is not a bad descriptor at all…

Photo Stolen Pixabay

In terms of longevity and sillage, Sarrasins trails me like a spectre. Close, intimate, and radiating energy and a cold stately mood. Moderate.

Further reading: Perfume Shrine and Smelly Thoughts
Serge Lutens can be purchased at Serge Lutens online or in most larger department stores
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $4/.5ml

So! What do you think a true noir perfume is?

-Liam (turning 18 soon – how should I spoil myself?)

Borsch, Vodka and Tears: Melbourne

July 21, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 19 Comments

Post by Ainslie Walker

I had an extraordinary unplanned evening on Chapel Street, Melbourne. My favorite kind of experience, where I get to learn something fascinating, enjoy a new experience and have all my senses dazzled. I was drawn in to a doorway marked by an intriguing logo painted on a shop window: “Borsch, Vodka and Tears” a few steps and I was suddenly out of the cold and in cozy Eastern Europe!

Borsch, Vodka and Tears: Melbourne

A romantic bohemian style bar and restaurant, inspired by the cellar bars of Krakow. It represents a bygone world, specialising in Polish vodka, absinthe, Eastern European beers and Polish meals. It is a perfect place for a date.

I arrived late and eyed off the wall of vodkas on display. The owners have spent years sourcing the most unusual, historic and rare bottles exclusively importing from Poland. My interest was spiked on realizing the bottles were hand made and painted in Poland too -gorgeously bespoke…very much the same way our favourite niche fragrances reside. One bottle even had a bubble inside with a rose inside! Even the historical stories of the brands reminded me of some of the older niche fragrances houses. I had found a magical sparkling vodka apothecary!

I decided on a vodka tasting session. I was asked about my favorite drinks, smells and flavours and I handed myself over for 3 of the barman’s recommendations -very much like perfume shopping. At this point he put down on the bar, three of the cutest tiny hand cut crystal shot glasses. I will admit I wanted to steal them – of course I didn’t though!!

He then filled them with different coloured liquids – vodka! They could have been made from anything! From potato or grain, tinctures or infusions of fruit, herbs or spices and aged in woods like oak. The idea he had was to test me, as by now he knew I had an interest in guessing notes.

Here are the highlights:

1. Piasecki Miodówka Leśna – Forest like and herbal, juniper and pine needle notes. A touch of something a little more resinous and balsamic, maybe honey. If it were perfume think Dior La Collection Couturier Parfumeur – Granville with its pine, citrus, pepper and herbal gorse notes rounded by sandalwoods and even some elements of Gucci by Gucci Sport – cypress, juniper and a touch of musky ambrette seed

2. Ja-GoPrzepalanka – All natural organic artisanal vodka featuring burnt sweet caramel notes, like the top of a crème brulee but with the alcohol strength being enough to really warm the throat. Smooth and deliciously addictive!

3. Miodula Prezydencka Lezakowana was the highlight for me I tasted smoked beeswax predominantly, along with the taste of wild honey, smoked pine needles and oak wood. Only 4000 bottles are made a year, all filled by hand, with 500 reserved as diplomatic gifts for Poland’s president. Bottles are all hand numbered with batch information also handwritten. The recipe is from 1772. I need a full bottle of this exclusive juice!!!!

Next visit I want to try Soplica Staropolska the menu says: Honey, Walnut, Clove With Jasmine And Lilac Notes. Aged In Oak Then Bottled In Hand Painted Decanters.
How does that not sound like a must try perfume to you? How do you like your vodka?

Ainslie Walker x

Move On Monday Club

July 20, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 39 Comments

Post by Holly

Hiya APJ gang!

I have formed a club, and I’m recruiting members! There are no requirements, no dues to be paid, no meetings and your participation is gonna be mostly in your own head! That’s where most things start anyway, right? You don’t even have to declare your membership. In fact, I will now assume that you are all members of The Move On Monday Club. Welcome!

Move On Monday Club

No doubt you’re wondering “what the hell does this have to do with perfume?” Good question! You see, over the last year I got myself into a pickle with my um, sincerely enthusiastic purchasing of perfume samples. I had my reasons, but now it’s time to move on. No whining, cringing, hand-wringing, sobbing, reviews of my PayPal account, denial or regret. So I’m hoping you’ll help me out. My Move on Mondays are my way of dealing with thoughts, feelings and things that have been lurking in the depths and need to be addressed. I like the alliteration, and the mindset helps set the tone for the week for me.

I have more than 300 samples. All from the last eighteen months. Yep, I went apeshit crazy! Then suddenly, about six months ago, I became overwhelmed. I stopped opening the Olfactif boxes and envelopes from decanters and so on and so forth. I kept ordering. I’d get to it. Then, I put the boxes in a huge box, and envelopes in giant trash bags, and tossed them into closets. Nut job! Move on.

Now I know that there are many people who have tons of samples and are comfortable with that. I personally am not. For a while, I created an image of The Sample Sea, where my samples are gently drifting in and out, and I thought that eventually I’d surf the sea and accept whatever drifts along my way. That has been a comforting image for a while, but now the sirens are singing and the samples are hissing and spitting and demanding attention. The Sample Sea is a gyre, replete with plastic bags, paper envelopes, cardboard boxes and detritus.

So what I’d like to know is what is your perfume sampling journey like these days?
Do you have a clear sense of your style and prefer to stick with it? Has it been consistent?
Do you like to experiment and will try almost anything?
Do you consider what you have to be a collection, or kinda willy-nilly?
Do you plan your purchases?
Do you organize your samples?
How do you sample? Do you pick one at a time, or five or ten?
Do you have a yes, a no, and a maybe pile?

How do you decide what is full-bottle worthy? Do you have particular requirements such as price, sillage, longevity, consistency from the top notes through the dry down?

Some popular Sample Sites include: Surrender To Chance, Posh Peasant, My Perfume Samples

Them there’s a lotta questions! Whew! I hope this doesn’t look like homework, and that you’ll enjoy sharing some of your insights. Thank you in advance.
Love and hugs to all,
Holly xo

Bergamoss by Mandy Aftel for Aftelier 2015

July 16, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 22 Comments

Post by Poodle

I love listening to the rain on a summer night. I love the morning after even more. I often step outside in the morning and just take a few deep breaths. In those early moments I feel as though I can smell all of nature. The sun begins to peek through the clouds, everything is still wet, and the summer warmth amplifies all the aromas. I can smell all the lush green leaves. The loamy wet soil smells fresh and new. There’s a damp, mossy smell but it’s like the rain has washed away that mustiness that you sometimes smell on hot, humid days. Instead the air is sweet and fresh. I can smell flowers but the rain has almost blurred their scents. As the sun rises higher things begin to warm and dry. Slowly the aroma of warming woods and earth pushes through the fresh green of the morning. I decide it’s time to step away from the quiet beauty of the morning and get started with my day.

Bergamoss by Mandy Aftel for Aftelier 2015

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, wild sweet orange
Heart: Peach, citronellol, nutmeg
Base: Oakmoss, flouvre absolute, coumarin, antique civet

That’s what I thought of when I smelled Bergamoss for the first time.

Bergamoss is the latest release from Mandy Aftel. I admit when I saw it was a chypre I was worried. Often they leave me smelling like I’ve spent too much time in a damp cellar. Not so with Bergamoss. It’s mossy, lush, bright and green, with just enough warmth and earthiness to keep it interesting. Bergamot and orange give it sparkle. Citronellol from scented geraniums gives the fragrance that herbal yet slightly rosy scent the plants are known for. Nutmeg and civet add depth and keep things from smelling too clean and oakmoss adds that classic chypre complexity.

Photo Stolen DeviantArt

Bergamoss is beautifully blended. Yes, you can pick out notes but the overall effect on me is a soft blur of scent. Longevity might be an issue. One would need to reapply through the day I think but this is a solid perfume and one of the joys is in the application. Unlike a spray you choose exactly where to anoint yourself with it. Also, like most fragrances in that format, it’s not something that’s going to project across the room. I would say it’s more of a personal scent. The only people that would smell this on me are those I allow to get “thisclose”.

Photo Stolen WikiCommons

Knowing my love of big perfumes I was shocked to find myself happily huffing my wrist not caring that I wasn’t sharing my fragrance with the world. Sometimes you just don’t want to share and just want to be alone with your thoughts. Bergamoss is a scent of quiet beauty. It’s not going to shout to be heard. It has plenty to say but you need to take a quiet moment to listen.

Further reading: Now Smell This and I Scent You A Day
Aftelier has Bergamoss from $6

Do you wear solid perfumes? What’s your favorite perfume for quiet moments?
Poodle xx

Maremma by Paolo Terenzi for Tiziana Terenzi 2013

July 15, 2015 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 6 Comments

Post by Trésor

There are a few occasions…let’s face it…many occasions where instead of craving restrained grace or meticulously polished oeuvre I want to smell of everything; all the notes, all the flowers, all of them and right now. Every once and a little while I will be perusing the online shops and come across a potion with a labyrinthine list of notes and my heart goes aflutter, my resolve all but disappears and without warning I have a blind bought bottle of some mystery fragrance with a bazillion notes to positively douse myself in upon it’s arrival. My most recent discovery has been a little potion from the Italian house of Tiziana Terenzi that goes by the name of Maremma, otherwise known as the next stop on my journey to unapologetic fragrant hedonism.

Maremma by Tiziana Terenzi 2013

Maremma by Paolo Terenzi

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bitter Bergamot, Ylang-Ylang, Jasmine, Black Currant, Holm Oak Acorn
Heart: Angelica, Orris Root, Agarwood, Lotus Wood, Cumin, Honey
Base: Patchouli, Cocoa Powder, Sandalwood, Cistus Labdanum, Amber Crystals, Rosewood

The opening sequence of Maremma is a story of luxuriant, utterly unctuous cocoa bathed in the glimmering chartreuse radiance of a rather full-bodied bergamot. The cocoa is sweet, but not deliriously so, pirouetting gracefully as an haute confection rather than weighing the composition down or making it register as exceedingly opaque. The florid, almost banana-like creaminess of ylang ylang along with her intrinsic powderiness infuses the atmosphere, veiling the composition in a scintillating gossamer haze of delicate, flavescent powder. The subtle subversion of agarwood and velvet patchouli lurk beneath, never truly allowing Maremma to reach the point of effervescence, instead working harmoniously to temper a degree of saccharinity which might otherwise seem overwhelming.

Photo Stolen Wikipedia

Ascending from the murky depth of these two notes is a glorious bouquet of buttery iris and silken jasmine, each releasing their precious aroma in tender undulations; adding yet another fragrant layer to this beguiling brew. The delectable stickiness of blackcurrant jam alongside just a kiss of glistening, aureate honey affords a particular density to the composition; an effortless marriage and flawless synchronicity. As the composition begins to dry down the creaminess observed in the incipience begins to intensify and is joined by delicate tendrils of clean skin musk and a crystalline vision of amber. It is this stage of the fragrance that happens to be my favourite and luckily (for me, at least) it’s the one that lasts the longest. A gentle hologram of palisander and sandalwood flickers in the distance and the ghosts of what came before radiate their blessings down softly down from above. This impeccably cozy aura lasts and lasts (and lasts) until finally it fades into all but nothing.

Photo Stolen DeviantArt

When it comes to sillage Maremma’s got it in the bag, it is an extrait de parfum packaged in a spray atomizer so you can just imagine the sort of projection you would get with something like this. It’s not so dramatic that they’ll smell you in the next city over but it’s most certainly not the first thing I would reach for if subtlety were my endgame. The longevity with Maremma is out of this world; I could still detect it on my skin 24 hours after my initial application. That’s pretty freaking phenomenal if you ask me, especially for someone who’s skin eats perfume like it’s breakfast.

Photo Stolen Geograph

I would urge you to give Maremma a go if you’re the sort who is into densely populated fragrances or have affection for things like Tom Ford’s Black Orchid, Van Cleef and Arpel’s Precious Oud or even Dior’s Poison. I think you may just find yourself with a brand new lemming if you do.

Further reading: The Scented Apprentice
LuckyScent has $145/100ml
First In Fragrance has €135/100ml

So, my darlings, what are your favourite everything-but-the-kitchen-sink fragrances?

Until next time,

Trésor xo

Australian Perfume Junkies

Olfactory Opinions from Oz

Contributors

Sex Panther Cologne by Romane 2008

Sex Panther Cologne by Romane 2008

Sex Panther Cologne: The Un-Review

Stealing Your (BOY) Friends Beauty Products

Stealing Your (BOY) Friends Beauty Products

Hiris by Olivia Giacobetti for Hermès 1999

Hiris by Olivia Giacobetti for Hermès 1999

Jersey Parfum by Jacques Polge for CHANEL 2014

CHANEL Jersey parfum Les Exclusifs de Chanel

CHANEL Jersey parfum by Jacques Polge

Sarrasins by Christopher Sheldrake + Serge Lutens 2007

Sarrasins by Serge Lutens 2007

Sarrasins by Christopher Sheldrake + Serge Lutens

Borsch, Vodka and Tears: Melbourne

Borsch, Vodka and Tears: Melbourne

Move On Monday Club

Move On Monday Club

Bergamoss by Mandy Aftel for Aftelier 2015

Bergamoss by Mandy Aftel for Aftelier 2015

Maremma by Paolo Terenzi for Tiziana Terenzi 2013

Maremma by Tiziana Terenzi 2013

Maremma by Paolo Terenzi