Perfume by Dawn Spencer Hurwitz for DSH Perfume 2014

March 1, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 6 Comments

Post by Portia

Hey APJ Crew,

Recently I purchased Giverny In Bloom from DSH Perfumes (which I freaking LOVE!) and with it Dawn sent me some DSH Perfume from the Peace, Love & Perfume project. Peace, Love & Perfume is Carlos J Powell’s facebook page and he has been working with a few of the world’s best independent perfumers bringing to life their ideas of how Peace, Love & Perfume could be constructed. It’s a really interesting idea and I love that people are getting on board and letting their creativity free.

Perfume by DSH Perfume 2014

Perfume by Dawn Spencer Hurwitz

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Grapefruit, rhubarb, cognac, tropical fruits, basil, pitosporum, jasmine, ambrette (musk mallow), guaiac wood, vetiver

My only question is “Why did it take me so long to find this?”

Graprefruit, almost photo realistic, bursts out of the atomiser. It’s ultra sweet, clean, fresh and vibrant. There is the merest hint of far off urinals that makes it a little dirty too and while I don’t get cognac per se there is a very alcoholic undercurrent. We are in the middle of summer in Sydney and Jin has just discovered how to make dacquiris, Perfume smells like a Dacquiri tastes: delicious, tart, cooling and alcoholic. As Perfume softens the citrus becomes a player rather than the lead and a refreshing green herbaceousness twines through with lovely hints of sweet fruitiness.

Interestingly, just as you think the citrus is about to give up the ghost back it comes full force. How does that happen? So good.

Then later on the grapefruit and musks turn up a very nice sweaty vibe. Did I mention the longevity is excellent with Perfume. It’s cologne-ish but ever so much more.

Flickr

From DSH Perfumes: DSH Perfume is a rather unorthodox pairing of grapefruit, rhubarb, and cognac accented by a luscious tropical fruit accord with green notes of basil and pittosporum to create the “fresh cologne” aspect . A vibrant jasmine heart dries down to a surprisingly creamy ambrette, guaiacwood, and vetiver finish. This is definitely a modern twist on the ‘eau de cologne’ design concept.
We’re releasing 50 Limited Edition Extrait flacons (5 ml Antique presentations) of Peace and Love (retail price: $105); Perfume will also be released as a Limited Edition of 50, 10 ml spray flacons in Cologne Absolue strength (retail price: $48).

Go check out DSH Perfumes, there’s something for everyone at an excellent price point and Dawn does excellent samples and extras with every order.
Which is your fave Indie Perfumer? Have you tried Dawn?
Portia xx

Serge Lutens Masterclass: Paris 2016: Photo Essay

February 29, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 24 Comments

Post by Portia

We are home,

It’s been the most fabulous holiday and I have so much to share. A whirlwind to say the very least. One of my top experiences that we had while away was the Serge Lutens Masterclass. It was unbelievably fabulous.

We were whisked upstairs by Elvire into the yellow room, the table was set for sniffing and then she brought us biscuits and tea cakes, very posh. I was invited to sit in Serge Lutens chair (OMG!) and we were happily led through quite a lot of the Exclusive to Palais Royal fragrances. You have no idea how fabulous.

Before you go booking, they prefer you to be in groups of 4-6. Originally we were to be a 4 but sadly two of our crew couldn’t make it. To make up for that, and make it worth Serge’s time, I had some pre-orders from Australia that I needed to get fulfilled as well as my own list.

Serge Lutens Masterclass

Paris 2016: Photo Essay

The gorgeous walls of Serge Lutens yellow room, hidden doors and concealment are the name of the game.

Sitting in Serge’s chair, where he holds court for launches etc.

The gorgeous Elvire who has taken Lea’s masterclass hostess place now that Lea has gone to Shiseido Head Office.

Jin, bless his soul, ran around taking pictures throughout the 2+ hours. He wanted you all to feel part of the experience, notice there is no paper on the table yet.

The very first Serge Lutens fragrance, Feminite du Bois, in its original bottles. No wonder these are so coveted, some had the scent still inside. SWOON!

We start getting our sniff on. Touches are already prepared with fragrance names and tied with black ribbon. The experience was full of these well prepared little glam spots. Elvire was all over the event and full of discerning insights into the fragrances, all done from memory and with such passion it was easy to get swept away.

As you can see the table is filling up with paper, the ones sticking up are my return and skin test ones.

So beautiful, with a smile that lit up the room.

Jin & I being assholes.

Even the toilet gets the Serge Lutens treatment. The toilet seat was marble I think, or maybe it was the whole toilet. Was so tripping on the fumes by this time that I was seeing spots.

As you can see we were so involved chatting and sniffing that I hardly touched the cakes!

Finally we get down to the nitty gritty. Time for shopping! I bought Rose de Nuit and La Myrrhe for Aussies. Jin bought Muscs Koublai Khan and I purchased Miel de Bois and Fumerie Turque. Elvire gave us a choice of 2 samples each too (then popped an extra in Jin’s bag! He was thrilled) and for each bottle a full set of wax samples.

Should you be going to France and wish to book this marvelous FREE Event there is a Serge Lutens Contact Page, attention Elvire.

Which of the Exclusives takes your fancy?
Portia xxx

Jocelyn Fullerton: Cult Of Scent Afternoon

February 27, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 2 Comments

Post by Portia

Hi Independent Perfume Lovers,

Cult Of Scent is becoming quite the Independent Perfume Lovers rallying point here in Australia. Unusual, flirty, intoxicating, raw, surprising, mischievous, flattering, elegant and amazing are all words my friends and I have used to describe the work of Jocelyn Fullerton, nose and creator of Cult Of Scent. Hedonist is the only one I’ve reviewed on APJ yet but there are a couple more that I have been sampling and adore.

Jocelyn Fullerton: A Cult Of Scent Afternoon

Learn The Range With The Perfumer

Imagine the chance to be walked through the Cult Of Scent range by the woman who created the fragrances. We will be treated to some of the major component parts of the fragrances and some of the fillers, hear Jocelyn’s story behind each creation, how she arrived at her finished product and get to know a lot more about the process of creating fragrance. We will also hear about Jocelyn’s trajectory from regular person to perfumer and be given insight into that path.

I, Portia, will be providing a lunch of sandwiches, fruit and cakes. There will be champagne punch on arrival and tea/coffee/water available throughout.

We have a maximum number of 12 guests so I would urge you to book as early as possible.

Where: Portia’s apartment in Parramatta
When: Saturday March 19 2016 11.30am arrive for a 12 noon sharp start -3pm
Cost: FREE

CONTACT TO BOOK: Cult Of Scent
Please leave your name and phone details in the Contact Form. First 12 in get the seats.

Can’t wait to see you guys.
It will be our first event after arriving home from Europe and it will be a lovely fragrant housewarming too.
Please come.
Portia xx

Celebuscents I Don’t Hate

February 26, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 38 Comments

Post by Portia

Hi there Fragrance Lovers,

Celebuscents have been a bone of contention among perfumistas for years. While most of them are dross put out by the big fragrance conglomerates with little or no reference and involvement from the celebrities themselves surprisingly some of them have turned out to be quite good, wearable, viable options. Even some celebrities that I loathe have put out one frag that I like, even though I refuse to purchase on ethical grounds. Startlingly, some of the celebrities that I have long adored have put out shit that I wouldn’t clean a toilet with. So I thought a list of some of my favourite celebuscents may help you wade through the incredible amounts out there. Yes, there are a few that make everybodies list but others seem to have flown beneath the radar.

Celebuscents I Don’t Hate

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Dita Von Teese: The original Dita Von Teese is a fun rose/white floral in the radiant style. Sheer and very wearable. I went through one of the 20ml flacons in no time. You can get the shower gel and body lotions for next to nothing at the discounters.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Elizabeth Taylor Black Pearls: Still in the top ten sellers of celebuscents each year Elizabeth Taylor’s range is big. My favourite is the very 1980s peach, amber and woodsy flamboyance of Black Pearls. This one will announce your arrival a few feet ahead of you.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Gwen Stefani L: I wore this fragrance in a big way for a while but it started giving me headaches. It’s a pear & peach powerhouse done in radiant style and has very tenacious longevity. Nowadays if I want to wear it I spritz my lower back and knees.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Halle Berry Halle: A very glamorous floriental with a hint of fig that becomes the warmest, silkiest amber. This could easily dupe some of the expensive niche ambers and lasting power is excellent. It’s not groundbreaking or challenging but Halle smells really good.

Photo Stolen Parfumo

Jennifer Aniston: A fresh, aquatic jasmine Jennifer Anniston is pretty, vegetally sweet and a little tropically lush. A bit heftier than most of the radiant fragrances and the flowers are better in waft than nose pressed to skin but as it goes by it’s a definite head turner.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Jessica Simpson Fancy Nights: Imagine Shalimar with a triple dose of gooey caramel and more patchouli. It’s rich, intense and has powerful sillage for the first hour. Once Fancy Nights settles it is a rich amber/patch bomb that sits just above your skin for hours.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Madonna Truth or Dare: BIG WHITE FLORAL along the lines of Fracas but longer lasting and not so far into the bubble gum arena. If you like white flowers with a warm amber base then Truth or Dare, which is basically free, should be on your list.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Niki de Saint Phalle: This is my personal go-to green. The minty and fruity opening is a masterpiece of bittersweet, the iris led floral bouquet through the heart and the softly warmed base of woodsy moss. Perfect.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Paloma Picasso: Imagine an animalic, extra cloves, hefty on the oakmoss CHANEL No 5 and you are pretty much on track for this 1980s supernova of a fragrance. Paloma Picasso will announce your arrival.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Sarah Jessica Parker Lovely: I know, it’s on EVERY list. That’s becausae it’s good. Smells fantastic on everyone. Radiant floral with a super musk and spice motto. Lovely is well named.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Queen Latifah Queen: Boozy citrus with a soft white flower and a hefty, elegant vanilla base. Lasts forever and smells fantastic. I gift Queen often and it’s become one of my BFF Kath’s faves too.

Special mentions go to Siren and Fairy Dust by Paris Hilton, Queen of Hearts by Queen Latifah, Truth or Dare Naked by Madonna, Cher Uninhibited, Pure Honey by Kim Kardashian, With Love by Hilary Duff, Still by Jennifer Lopez, Covet by SJP, Boyfriend by Kate Walsh, Adam Levine Woman, Our Moment by One Direction and Deneuve by Catherine Deneuve.

Most are still available to try from My Perfume Samples and Surrender To Chance

Go on, which are your favourite celebuscents?
Portia xx

If you hit the link and shop with My Perfume Samples I get a kickback!

CHANEL No 5 parfum: LIVE Video Sniff

February 26, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 6 Comments

Post by Portia

Hi Wonderful Wafters,

CHANEL No 5 has a mystery and mystique all its own. No other fragrance on the planet has sold in such numbers for so long. It is revered and reviled in equal measure by the fragrance community but to me its about as lavish and comfoting as a hot chocolate on a cold night while snuggled in a feather doona eating Jin’s home made macaroons and watching films. The ULTIMATE!

CHANEL No 5 parfum

LIVE Video Sniff

Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Neroli, ylang-ylang, bergamot, amalfi lemon, aldehydes
Heart: Iris, jasmine, orris root, rose, lily-of-the-valley
Base: Vetiver, musk, sandalwood, patchouli, oak moss, amber, vanille, civet

From Coco and Marilyn to me, CHANEL No 5 fits almost every mood.

By Night Black by Profumi del Forte 2009

February 25, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 2 Comments

Post by Portia

Hi the Fumies,

I remember trying this a while back but have no memory of the scent. I’m surprised that it wasn’t written about because I love the Profumi del Forte line in general, they are lavish new looks at old ideas. Something about the line smells distinctive and quality to me. It’s weird that I don’t own a full bottle of one yet, Versilia Vintage Ambra Mediterranea is my favourite of the line but it never seems to last till checkout in my cart.

By Night Black by Profumi del Forte 2009

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Lime, cypress, mandarin orange, orange, fig leaf, basil, juniper, bitter orange, rose hip, lavender, cypress
Heart: Pine, mate, jasmine, incense
Base: Cedar

A warm, herbal cologne. Singing top notes that are high citrus & woods with a marked creaminess, a pithiness, a dry and warm undercurrent that By Night Black’s notes give me no reason to expect. Very urbane, I can imagine it on a well dressed business person who wants to smell a little outside the box but not outrageous. Maybe it’s the mate that’s adding the creamy warmth. I’ve only drunk it once at Roxana Villa’s place and my memory is of a creamy green drink that was sweet and lightly tea-ish, more like a smoothie. The jasmine definitely is playing a smoothing role too though the heart, which is lovely. Gaia in her Non Blonde review is saddened that By Night Black is not interesting enough, I can’t say I have the same sense of let down. There is plenty of nuance and interesting by play for me. Maybe because my expectations were so low it smells better than I expected?

Photo Stolen Wikipedia

So while I’m falling asleep about an hour after this application I notice that By Night Black has collapsed into something that I know but can’t place, like an everyman’s dry down. A woodsy scent that leads my mind to the 1990s/early 2000s gym locker rooms. I’m falling asleep so it’s a passing thought and then it’s morning.

Next morning I awake and there is something a little off left on my hand, it’s a woodsy/fishy/salty/sweet/decaying scent that while being very light still manages to make me feel uncomfortable and run to the bathroom to wash my hand. So freaking weird. The end.

Photo Stolen Flickr

Further reading: Non Blonde
First In Fragrance has €168/100ml
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $6/ml

Obviously you may have an entirely different wear and there has been some nasty reaction with my chemistry. It did freak me out a bit this morning though. I couldn’t get my hand under the tap fast enough.

Have you ever had a frag turn feral? Tell us the story please.
Portia xx

10 Mysterious Extinct Human Species : Video

February 20, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 9 Comments

Post by Portia

So APJ,

Do you want to see something fabulous? It’s always a surprise to find out something wonderful about our world. Before this video I had heard of only two of the other species of humanoids on the earth, that there were ten or even more is surprising to say the least. That only some of them have added to our gene pool is also interesting, most going extinct 40,000 years or more ago.

Mind blown,
Enjoy.
Portia xx

YouTube

10 Mysterious Extinct Human Species

Bulgari Jasmin Noir by Carlos Benaim and Sophie Labbe for BVLGARI 2008

February 19, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 13 Comments

Post by Portia

Heya APJ Family,

Since 2008 I have longed to wear this fragrance. Every now and then I give myself a spritz in the mall but it’s too busy there to contemplate fragrance and Jasmin Noir doesn’t seem to be big enough to maintain my attention when otherwise occupied. So I bought a decant, now I get to spend some time in peaceful surroundings and really test drive it. Don’t worry, my expectations are very low but sometimes you just have to scratch the itch.

Bulgari Jasmin Noir by BVLGARI 2008

Bulgari Jasmin Noir by Carlos Benaim and Sophie Labbe

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Gardenia, Green plant juice
Heart: Jasmine sambac absolute, Almond
Base: Precious woods, Glycyrrhiza, Tonka bean absolute

Sheer radiant sappy floral, pretty and slightly plastic smelling that is airy and sparse. This fresh greenness never really points to one flower but smells to me like an amorphous white floral bouquet and when the jasmine arrives it feels fizzy and metallic, are there some aldehydes hidden in the mix? As far as flowers go my skin is throwing floral holograms rather than the flowers themselves, space flowers, crystal floral replicas. I am just not getting the notes I’m supposed to be smelling, except the green plant juice. Green plant juice and woods as if what I’m smelling is in a dream about standing next to a council shredder and they are putting through leafy branches of soft stemmed plants like hydrangea, tied old air conditioning and maybe some arum lilies, there is a petroleum/exhaust hint too that I would normally love. They must have used the cleanest isolates of flowers or chemical representations of them.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

I wanted to like this, was ready to love it and buy one of those gorgeous bottles, but sadly on me Jasmin Noir smells bad. My skin throws some awful thing up at me that is not the way I would like to be, or imagine myself, smelling. Sorry if it’s your favourite, more power to you if it smells better on you than me.

Further reading: Now Smell This and Perfume Shrine
FragranceNet has $50/50ml before Coupon
My Perfume Samples has $7/5ml

Do you ever crave to try something even though you’re 98% sure that it’s going to be a complete failure? Does Jasmin Noir work on you? I’d love to read reports of it being fabulous.
Portia xx

N.B. If you hit the My Perfume Samples link and shop I get a kickback.

L`Interdit Givenchy: LIVE Video Sniff

February 19, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 5 Comments

Post by Portia

Hey Happy Huffers,

This is one of Scott’s favourite fragrances. To be honest I’d never knowingly sniffed it. He loves it, and has loved it for years. It was really lovely of him to bring his amazing parfum find for us to do an opening video of, it’s nice to share the moment.

L`Interdit by Francis Fabron for Givenchy 1957

LIVE Video Sniff

Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Aldehydes, spices, mandarin orange, peach, bergamot, strawberry
Heart: Iris, violet, narcissus, orris root, jasmine, ylang-ylang, lily-of-the-valley, rose
Base: Sandalwood, amber, musk, benzoin, vetiver, tonka bean

If you have never smelled vintage L’Interdit parfum do yourself a favour and stay far away from its loveliness. Who needs an expensive, discontinued, nightmare to find obsession?

Mitsouko by Guerlain vintage parfum C1988

February 18, 2016 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 6 Comments

Post by Portia

Hi there Vintage Frag Freaks,

You know I’m a bit of a Guerlainophile? Well, I rather like their work. Recently I picked up a little bottle of the parfum, used but still about 80% full, in the iconic bottle, only 7.5ml. Well I can’t stop dabbing it. It sits here on my desk and calls to me with its luscious sweet fruity dryness and what can I do but indulge?

Mitsouko by Guerlain vintage parfum C1988

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, Lemon, Mandarin, Neroli, Jasmine, Rose
Heart: Peach, Rose, Clove, Ylang-Ylang, Lilac, Jasmine
Base: Oakmoss, Labdanum, Patchouli, Benzoin, Vetiver, Cinnamon

Tonight, quite late, I drew the bath and put some Radox Bath Salts in. About half way through the running I decided to add in 15 drops of Jo Malone Red Roses Bath Oil. Suddenly the room smelled unbelievable, deep, blood red roses, dry black tea and the crackle of split branch and wood. We are having an unseasonal summer cold snap so I made the water lovely and hot. An hour later I arose like an extremely obese Birth of Venus both clean and rosy, rosy skin and smell.

Having come back to my desk afterwards I had thought I’d wear Mohur or Ballets Rouges but instead decided to dab myself like crazy with Mitsouko. MMMMMMM I smell freaking amazing and the rosy underlay has definitely amped the rosy nature of Mitsouko and given it a whole new more austere and aloof mien than usual. It’s different but lovely, different enough to be a rose Mitsouko flanker and I for me the Red Roses adds a lightness and freshness that is very modern, is there a bunch of white musk under Red Roses? I’m getting them even if there isn’t.

Wikipedia

Still Mitsouko but slightly changed, some air between the heavily constructed, dense, historic notes. An extra swish and zing from the 21st century yet still laid over the intricate, nuanced and slightly dirty grace of one of the most revered fragrances in the books.

Now I have applied a second layer of extrait over the same spots as before and the Mitsouko is pretty much back to normal now. Maybe because I have rose on my mind there is still a large overblown old fashioned fruity cabbage rose in my olfactory picture but the other notes like clove, peach, ylang and amber are much more prominent and noticeable. HA! Maybe I just needed more Mitsouko juice on my skin?

This morning, I wake up to the softest thrill of something not quite me above my skin. My guess is oakmoss and vanilla from Mitsouko and some white musks from Red Roses, it shimmers above my skin but is not really a fragrance. It’s the ghost of the memory of being fragrant.

Geograph

Further reading: Australian Perfume Junkies and Persolaise
Mitsouko can be tried at any department store with a Guerlain counter for FREE. Go spritz lavishly.
Surrender To Chance have vintage parfum samples starting at $10/0.25ml

Please tell us your Mitsouko story? I’d love to read it.
Portia xx