Sogno Reale Talismans Collezione Preziosa by Amélie Bourgeois for Mendittorosa 2015

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Portia

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Hey there APJ Crew,

I’ve worn Sogno Reale a few times now but I never seem to get a real hold on it. Each time the wear reads differently. So today I’m going to describe my wear for you but it is tinged by memories of previous wears. Because of this I’m definitely going to say that your mileage may vary, mine did every time.

This review is from a split decant that came a couple of months ago, I keep wearing and trying to write the post because I think the fragrance beautiful enough that you guys should know about it. Biting the bullet today.

Sogno Reale by Mendittorosa 2015

Sogno Reale Talismans Collezione Preziosa by Amélie Bourgeois

Sogno Reale Talismans Collezione Preziosa Mendittorosa FragranticaFragrantica

Mendittorosa gives these featured accords:
Top: Lemon, Bergamot, Marine/Iodine Accord
Heart: Tuberose, Patchouli
Base: Volcanic Olibanum, Hyraceum, Rhum, Sandalwood, Styrax, Amber Woods

Interesting, I really smell the iodine and patchouli as I spray Sogno Reale. It’s not till a few seconds in that the citrus even gets any smell time. Not huge, here we have a very restrained fragrance, all the notes are accounted for but sotto voce. As if this kind of happy weirdness needs to whisper. If you can in expecting a Womanity or even a Sel Marin you will be disappointed indeed. That’s not to say Sogno Reale is unfragrant, no you can smell it, but it will creep up on you every now and again. A bit like some days I find Eau des Merveilles. Like smelling someone who has spent the day at the beach as they come home. Salty, suntanned, windblown and happy.

Actually the slightly oddballness is all in the opening 5 minutes, after that we settle down to a very pretty and expensive smelling Patch/Amber/Leather. The patchouli smells like someone you’re talking to is wearing it, not far away, and the leather steps up the scent into a luxurious jacket. A soft focus leather sweetened by amber. Very pretty, easy wear and comfortable……. supple, ultra cool leather jacket.

Sogno Reale by Mendittorosa Cool Leather Woman PXHerePDI

Then Sogno Reale softens to a lightly salty skin scent and continues murmuring for a couple of hours before I totally lose the ability to smell any difference from myself.

“All that we see or seem
is but a dream within a dream”
From ‘A Dream Within a Dream’ by Edgar Allen Poe
Sogno Reale is balm for the soul, a talisman dreamed into existence, the unconscious mind made extraordinary perfumed flesh.

Further reading: Colognoisseur
Mendittorosa has 230/100ml and FREE World Shipping
Surrender To Chance has a Mendittorosa Sampler from $11/3 x 0.75ml

Mendittorosa? Have you tried the brand yet?
Portia xx

Rose Alcane by Amélie Bourgeois and Anne-Sophie Behaghel for Aether 2016

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Portia

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Hiya Frag Heads,

The Aether brand is created scent for the 21st century that manages to remain beautiful, interesting and wearable. Modern is their catch cry, these guys use nothing but captured and created molecules in their scents. Every time I wear one of their perfumes I’m more swayed towards their concept.

I grabbed this decant from Surrender to Chance recently.

Rose Alcane by Aether 2016

Rose Alcane by Amélie Bourgeois and Anne-Sophie Behaghel

Rose Alcane Aether fragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Rose, green notes, metallic notes

Lick a cold spoon, put your hand into the fibrous up to 80% recycled glass insulation batts and smell a vintage fur coat in a florist. Now you understand how the opening of Rose Alcane is. A freaky fabulous melange of weird, and it doesn’t stop here. As all that burns off the rose becomes more prominent, but not a garden rose, not the glamorous rose of La Fille de Berlin or Mohur, not even the sweet rose of LUSH Rose Jam, patchouli intense Agent Provocateur or heady, oud filled Montale offerings. Here the rose is made of crystal, with metal thorns on torn stems and leaves.

The guys at Aether have discovered the Space Rose and brought it back from a galaxy far, far away. No, they have in fact been to the Rose Center for Earth and Space by Frederick Phineas and Sandra Priest, New York and used the modern stylings to centre their fragrance on.

This image is available from the United States Library of Congress's Prints and Photographs division under the digital ID highsm.04003. This tag does not indicate the copyright status of the attached work. A normal copyright tag is still required. See Commons:Licensing for more information.WikiCommons

After about 30 minutes the whole of Rose Alcane warms through. I’m picking up a salty woodiness and hints of jammy rose, hot sand and super clean stainless steel kitchen bench tops.

If you really love to smell roses in the garden and expect your fragrance to mimic that then you need to go elsewhere. Rose Alcane is a future fragrance now. I would love to smell this on people that wear suits to work, it would be sensationally ironic, and I also think it would fly under the fragrance radar because it smells so decidedly other.

Rose Alcane by Aether NGC 2244 Rosette Nebula WikiCommonsWikiCommons

Further reading: Scented Salamander and BL’eauG
Aether, First In Fragrance, Harvey Nichols and Twisted Lily all stock Aether
Surrender to Chance has samples starting from $3.60/0.5ml

What do you think? Love your rose a bit freaky?
Portia xx

 

Iris Palladium by Amélie Bourgeois + Arnaud Poulain for Les Eaux Primordiales 2015

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Post by TinaG

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Hi APJ!

Earlier this year I had the opportunity to catch up with Tara from A Bottled Rose on a whirlwind perfume extravaganza in London. We had an amazing day! One store we visited was Les Senteurs which has a fabulous range of fragrances, quite a few which were unknown to me. (Sorry they don’t ship to Aus).

One of my unknowns was Les Eaux Primordiales, a French fragrance company launched in 2015. We had a quick sniff of each of the perfumes on paper, and Murray (who is one of Les Senteurs’ superbly knowledgeable sales assistants) provided me with a sample of Iris Palladium to try later.

So later is now!

Iris Palladium by Les Eaux Primordiales 2015

Iris Palladium by Amélie Bourgeois + Arnaud Poulain

Iris Palladium Les EAUX Primordiales FragranticaFragrantica

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Italian Bergamot, Carrot Seeds, Sage, Solar Jasmine, Cedar, Patchouli, Labdanum, Sandalwood, Iris, Tonka Bean, White Musk

The iris in the opening of Iris Palladium starts off doughy and thick, before morphing and bring in some metallic / chlorine / carrot notes along with a prominent dusty sweetness that softens the composition, taking off some of the metallic edge. The mix of dust/powder is not so much in the “makeup” category, but is a musk. I tend to shy away from fragrances which list ‘white musk’ as a note, for some I can’t bear at all – sorry to say that the Body Shop fragrance of the same name is one of these. However this doesn’t hit my no-go nasal zone, the musk is pleasant, soft and warm.

Iris Palladium Les EAUX Primordiales Iris_palladia WikiCommonsWikiCommons

At 4 hours I’m taken by surprise as a beautiful clean jasmine shines through. It’s really lovely and I realise that it had been humming around in the background all this time with some nutty notes adding to the blend but not overpowering.

The fragrance recedes back to skin at 6-10 hours in a yellow woody powdery waft with the lightest impression of citrus and I smell a hint of bitter ash in the dry down. It’s a pleasant combo and I enjoy the longevity that it keeps well into the evening.

Overall the two predominant notes (varying iris / dusty musk) are complimentary, and round each other out. For people (like myself) who revel in a bold metallic iris it may feel like a pillow has been put over it and muffled the composition. It’s very yin/yang, notes curling around each other & balancing out. But there’s a few surprises in there which keeps it interesting. Worth a trial if you have the chance.

Iris Palladium Les EAUX Primordiales Yin Yanf FlickrFlickr

Further reading: Black Narcissus
Les Eaux Primordials has an outlet page

Have you had any new fragrance lines cross your radar lately?

xx Tina G

North by Amelie Bourgeois and Anne-Sophie Behaghel for Mendittorosa (Odori d’Anima) 2013

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Post by Trésor

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I have a confession to make: I am not a fan of summer, of all the four seasons it is easily my least favourite. I know what you’re thinking. “Have you no heart, Trésor?! How can you not love the summer?!” While I admit there are few things more delightful than the aureate hue of summertime sunlight there are also few things I despise more than the heat that accompanies this precious gift. I revel in the embrace of graceful autumn zephyrs and even within the frost-bound chill of the Canadian winters in which I grew up. Naturally, when August rolled around and the heat *really* hit I was scrambling to find just about anything I could to satiate my desire for hyperborean delight. It was around this time I just so happened to have serendipitously received a sample kit from Italian niche house Mendittorosa Odori d’Anima and I was delighted to find that nestled within was a potion authored by perfumers Amelie Bourgeois and Anne-Sophie Behaghel called North, a pulchritudinous ode to Scandinavian minimalism and the elegant austerity that so harmoniously exemplifies this exquisite aesthetic.

North by Mendittorosa (Odori d’Anima) 2013

North by Amelie Bourgeois and Anne-Sophie Behaghel

North Mendittorosa FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Black pepper, aldehydes, bergamot
Heart: Sea notes, floral notes, jasmine
Base: Atlas cedar, Virginian cedar, nutmeg

North opens with a diffuse aurora of shimmering aldehydes, refracting light in a way that so viscerally resembles a premonition of fractured crystal suspended in perpetuity within rays of December sunlight. A verdant scythe of emerald bergamot penetrates the crystalline aurora, setting the sky alight in a flash of vivid green, the threads of which fall daintily like stardust into the Baltic sea. Holograms of gelid flowers float on the water’s surface, breathing in the salty brine and exhaling piercing clouds of glacial ozone bound for the shore. Hologram materializes into tangibility as the composition approaches land and the bounty which it bares.

North Mendittorosa Cedrus_deodara  WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

The frozen petals of this ephemeral white flower now rest at the feet of towering cedars, singing unto the borealis with their sylvan essence. There is little warmth to be found here in this landscape but is within this hiemal serenity that the beauty of the composition lays. The notes seem to flow into each other as the river to delta and delta to the sea, naturally and with a sophisticated ease.

North exists on my skin for about 6 hours in total though on the warmest of days I can get just a bit longer. The sillage is gentle, an ethereal aura of divine fragrance as opposed to a diffuse cloud. I’ve found this to be just the antidote to my admittedly cantankerous disposition towards the heat and humidity as it reminds me so beautifully of the seasons which bring me the greatest joy and those of which I have the fondest memories.

North Mendittorosa Anchorage Wildlife refuge Paxson Woelber FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

Val the Cookie Queen writes about another Mendittorosa (Odori d’Anima) fragrance Id
First In Fragrance have €185/100ml
Mendittorosa Odori d’Anima have a fabulous Discovery Pack (7 x 1.4ml samples, literature, message from founder, world postage) 40

Do you have a favourite fragrance who’s atmosphere mirrors the glacial chill of North?

Until next time, my darlings.

Trésor x

FR! 01/04 Magnol'art 3 by Amélie Bourgeois for Fragrance Republic 2014

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Post by Poodle

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Let the Music Play…

That’s the name of a song by an artist named Shannon that was released in 1984. It’s the song that came on the radio as I was writing this and since it’s about a dance, it seemed fitting.  Fragrance Republic FR! 01/04 is supposed to call to mind a dance, the tango specifically, and a weekend getaway.

FR! 01/04 Magnol’art 3 by Amélie Bourgeois for Fragrance Republic 2014

01 04 Magnol'art 3 Fragrance Republic FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords: (slightly different in words & pictures)
Top: Yellow Italian Mandarin, Sweet Orange
Heart: Jasmine, Fleur de Cassie, Mimosa Maroc, Black Locust, Magnolia
Base: Sesame, Tonka Bean, White Musks

FR! 01/04 was not what I expected from reading the note list.  I was expecting a citrusy, tropical thing that I would quickly dismiss.  Instead I got something completely different that’s grown on me a lot.

It opens on my skin with a huge bouquet of flowers.  The florals here are big and bold.  There’s a creaminess to the magnolia that evokes the idea of big, fleshy petals.  The sesame is also noticeable from the start to the finish.  That and the Tonka bean give the scent an edible note that hums just below the surface.  It’s not woody but rather nutty.  I imagine a Latin dancer with flowers in her hair.  It’s a hot summer night.  She’s dancing with a handsome man to the pulsating beat of the tango.  The song ends and they step away to share a sip of a tropical drink with orange slices garnishing the glass.  All these aromas mingle with the musky sweetness of their skin covered in just a shimmer of sweat.

01 04 Magnol'art 3 Fragrance Republic tango pixabayPhoto Stolen Pixabay

The idea behind the perfume is Argentina and the sensuality of two bodies dancing the tango.  At the start it’s musky, nutty floral.  The citrus notes are nowhere to be found for me.  It isn’t until later in the development they make a little flirting appearance.  The perfume has an earthy quality to it but it never smells dirty to me.  There’s a sensual facet from the big flowers but even the musks in this are clean and not animalic.  While I was able to piece together the imagery it wasn’t the down and dirty fragrance I thought it would be.  These two dancing bodies are keeping all their contact on the dance floor.

And she sang;

“I thought it was clear,
the plan was we would share
this feeling just between ourselves,
But when the music changed
the plan was rearranged,
he went to dance with someone else.”

There’s no roll in the sheets to end the evening for them.  It’s all about the dance.  In the end the perfume is all about the clean musks with that touch of sesame.  That being said, it’s got just enough going on to keep it from smelling too clean and the sesame gives it a unique quality that I really like.

Further reading: Ca Fleur Bon
Fragrance Republic has $45/15ml

Poodle x