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Kate Apted
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How’s things, APJers?
Our summer is pretty much over, and as short as it had been, I found it one of my best summers yet. I discovered a wide range of hot weather loving scents that are not the usual citrus, cologne style or 90s breezy, aquatics. Needless to say, Chloe Nomade got a lot of wear, as did 34 Boulevard St Germain by Diptyque.
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Greg Young from AusScents.
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Hi APJ,
Last year, designer Philippe Starck ventured into the fragrance world with three perfumes. In keeping with Starck’s minimalist design philosophy, these scents are very subtle and stick close to the skin. There is some playing with preconceptions about what a gender-specific fragrance should be like; the female fragrance morphs into something more masculine, and vice versa. And it simply would not be Starck without some unusual twists on “normal” design.
Skin of Silk. The most feminine fragrance in the range, Peau de Soie is as silky-smooth as the name implies. It’s a very soft, powdery scent. Peau de Soie opens with unobtrusive woody notes and then develops a mild floral note reminiscent of iris and a candy-like musk. On my skin this lasted about half the day, but it had almost zero projection. One needs to sniff one’s wrist closely to enjoy it.
Skin from Elsewhere. Yes, well this is very well-named in a sense, because it has notes that I’ve never encountered in a fragrance before. It opens earthy, with a green, vegetal whiff to it. A few close sniffs revealed an aroma of freshly cut beetroot which, once identified, became inescapable.
After a while, a transition away from earthiness begins and we get a faint lemony smell followed by musk and a little bit of wood. This also lasted about half a day on my skin.
Is beetroot a thing? Not according to the Fragrantica database. Nevertheless, I found myself quite liking this very different take on an earthy scent. I could easily see this one polarising sniffers; it’s a brave attempt from a designer renowned for his original thinking.
Skin of Stone. This one represents the end of a journey from silky lightness through an indefinable greenness down to earth and woods. There is a trace of sharp citrus on the first spray with a green note that I thought might be galbanum. A dominant cedary smell takes over, with a smoky aura about it. It comes across a little bit soapy at times, so I don’t think it quite fulfils the promise of its name, but it is probably my favourite of the three. It lasted a bit less than the others; maybe about 6 hours.
The subtlety of these scents means that individual notes rarely dominate; they are designed to be appreciated as a melange of their various parts. They all last a good long time on skin and are ideal if you’re wearing a fragrance solely to please yourself, or in an intimate encounter. If you’re up for something a bit different, the Starck range may be for you.
These reviews were based on samples given to me by Marco at Mason’s Menswear Boutique in Flinders Lane which is, I believe, the sole Australian outlet for the Starck line. (Ed: These guys have only been open for 13 weeks and are already generating a lot of media interest. We will watch with interest! They were super friendly on the phone today)
Greg XX
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Sandra
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HI there APJ,
Iris season has begun, the yellow water irises have bloomed and now I am waiting to see some bearded irises. I find the iris to be one of the most stunning flowers allowing itself to be photographed and painted over and over without getting bored. The colours are all over the spectrum and I find it difficult to choose a favourite. However, I love the shape of the bearded iris the most.
Now when it comes to perfumery, I always found the iris note to be cold and aloof, almost unbearably so. I tried and tried through the years to come to terms with this much loved note. I have even bought a bottle here or there of an iris centric perfume in hopes of finally getting it – only to be disappointed and then pass it along.
I do not know if it is age or reason that has brought my nose around, but at the moment I cannot seem to get enough of iris. I do believe that I am finally understanding that I like the warmer treatment of iris and tend to shy away from the cold renderings.
Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Yemenite frankincense
Heart: Somalian myrrh, Indonesian patchouli, Florentine iris absolute
Base: Amber, Woody notes, Honey, Leather, White musk
Last summer I picked up Christian Dior Bois d’Argent, created by Annick Menardo in 2004, which is part of the La Collection Privée. I sprayed it on in Nice and was taken aback of well this perfume worked in the summer heat. It was never stifling, nor suffocating. I packed it up as soon as we found out we were moving and did not spray it again until January of this year. It was winter and a wet cold set into my bones. The only way to stay warm was through olfactory stimulation. Bois d’Argent is warm and cuddly in the cold. The vanilla is played up with the iris and myrrh making it a slightly sweet, but not too sweet treat.
It has been in heavy rotation ever since January and now that Rotterdam is finally warming up I can say that I am enjoying Bois d’Argent even more. The perfume starts off with a blast of incense and a tinge of myrrh. The incense is warm and not overly done which can be a bit much. I find that myrrh rounds certain perfumes beautifully. The iris is smooth and warm and only slightly powdery. The powder aspect is less detectable now in the warmer weather. Instead of powder I am getting a lovely dry down of woods, incense and iris. Bois d’Argent is elegant and refined but not so much so that I cannot wear it on a daily basis. It keeps me centered and calm and ready to face the day with a smile and positive energy.
To be honest with you I can forget about the notes. This is smooth sailing and I do not need to think about what I am wearing. Rarely do I get compliments when I wear perfume. However, I do when I wear Bois d’Argent.
Further reading: What Men Should Smell Like and Olfactoria’s Travels
DIOR stores and some larger department store countermand airports carry the DIOR La Collection Privée line
Surrender To Chance has samples from $3.25/ml
Have you tried Dior Bois d’Argent? Now that I am open to and looking for some iris scents to try, can you recommend some to me? I would love to hear what you have to say about iris and how you like it or do not like it.
Sandra x
(Ed: All the Iris photos by Sandra. Beautiful.)
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Post by Val the Cookie Queen
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Hey Hip APJ Cats.
Ever taken acid? When you place it in your mouth there is a distinct metallic sensation and a little apprehension for what is about to come. Are you familiar with (electric) Kool-Aid Magic Twists? Normally Kool-Aid dissolves to match the colour of the packaging. The Twists don´t. You empty the green powder into the jug, add water and it turns red. Pretty cool, and weird if you don´t expect it.
Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: May rose, red rose, rose
Heart: Geranium, leather, varnish accord
Base: Metallic notes, laotian oud, ylang-ylang, ambrarome
“”Everyone smiles as you drift past the flowers, that grow so incredibly high.” (The Beatles)
Opus X erupts with droplets of green and an aluminium red blast, roses dripping in metal and varnish. Your consciousness needs a little time.
“Turn off your mind, relax and float down stream …” (The Beatles) The cacophony of notes smooth down into reds, cerise to crimson, cherry,
scarlet and vermilion. Layers of roses, the deeper you look into the mirror the more you see. The hovering silvered sheen prevents you
from going to deep. Never look into the mirror for too long. The Opus X meanders into a gentler territory softening up with leather, oud, and the
duskiness of a pile of rose petals. Stellar longevity. Bewitching.
The Rose with Kaleidoscope Eyes.
Further reading: Chemist In A Bottle and Candy Perfume Boy
Libertine Parfumerie has $487/100ml with FREE AUSTRALIAN POSTAGE
First In Fragrance has €320/100ml
From First In Fragrance: The wealth of rose facets in Opus X reflects all the stories that the red violin experiences on its journey through the centuries. The centifolia pluck the first string of the violin and play a magnificent, radiant and sensual melody. From the second string a dark rose chord resounds, which lends mystery to the composition. On the third string, rosebuds play a lyrical ode full of brilliance and luminosity. The rose oxide lies like a fine veil upon the composition, culminating in a vigorous and multi-faceted rose. In different pitches, it shows all its perfect beauty and its olfactory richness. The sensual texture of leather, woven with fine geranium notes, accompanies and intensifies the fragrance. The final impression of this woody-floral composition is created by the warmth of ambrarome, the seductive aroma of ylang-ylang and the elegance of Laotian Oud. Opus X lives through its contrasts of light and darkness, innocence and seduction.
“The ´60s aren`t over; they won´t be over until the Fat Lady gets high.” Ken Kesey
Do you see perfume as a drug?
Groovy Bussis
CQ
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Post by Portia
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I’ve always loved these Eau d’Italie bottles. They are sleek and heavy, love that they are opaque so I don’t need to worry so much about light damage and I imagine they look super elegant on your dresser if you are a one bottle person and you like to show your choice off prominently. It seems a very nice mix between stark, modern design and old fashioned porcelain.
Photo Stolen Fragrantica
Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, lily of the valley
Heart: Vanilla
Base: Musk
Vanilla is king in Morn to Dusk. My skin gives the most incredibly warm vanilla opening that doesn’t show a hint of the bergamot and lily of the valley until I’ve been wearing the fragrance for a couple of minutes. Then they come through and add this lovely wet green vibe that seems to be neither and both, it floats above the vanilla giving life and lift, creating a cool breeze over the dry sands of this interestingly desiccated vanilla. Through the heart the vanilla becomes sweeter and warmer like it was originally, not foody but a furry/fleshy vanilla. A rich, chewy consistency like glutinous toffee yet unpalatable in a cake/sweets sense.
Photo Stolen Pixabay
This short note list is totally missing large chunks. The vanilla towards the mid wear mark that lasts for hours is a crackly honeycomb and amber mix and I get something dry grass-ish like bamboo, vetiver or papyrus cutting through the rest making it less intensely vanillic.
I can’t believe the tenacity of Morn to Dusk, it will certainly wear for that length of time, longer on me today in the soft spring warmth. I put Morn to Dusk on at around 10am and now it’s about to turn dusk and I am still nicely fragrant. I like it. A lot.
Morn to Dusk is the kind of spritz & go frag that I longed for before I became a serious perfumista. It lasts all day, smells great and goes through some interesting phases without being a completely different scent. From leaving the house in the morning to getting home after a dinner you will smell good, sweet and dare I say it, delicious. I can imagine the guys wearing it in suits or jeans and the girls in gowns or jeans, across the board yummy.
Photo Stolen WikiMedia
Further reading: Colognoisseur
LuckyScent has $140/100ml
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $4/ml
Morn to Dusk is so wearable. What is your Vanilla? Which Eau d’Italie do you like?
Portia xx
Hi Scent Hounds,
Excellent response this week, and what a wonderful giveaway. Azar always finds the good stuff, it gets me excited too.
Portia xx
Photo Stolen Fragrantica
Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Apricot, plum, coconut
Heart: Tuberose, jasmine, lily-of-the-valley, rose, brazilian rosewood, caraway
Base: Sandalwood, almond, vanilla, musk
This week we will have 2 winners who will each get:
1 x 2 ml spray decant of the 1998 version of Hypnotic Poison EdT
1 x 2ml spray decant of the historic Italian referred to at the beginning of this post
P&H Anywhere in the world
Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.
You must tell me how you follow APJ
and
Please leave a comment about your favorite re-discovered oldie and/or your take on any version of Poison or Hypnotic Poison.
Extra Chance?
Tweet: @OzPerfumeJunkie Hypnotic Poison EdT: DIOR 1998 #GIVEAWAY http://wp.me/p3PURw-313 @Dior #Perfume
Entries Closed Thursday 31st July 2014 10pm Australian EST
Winners were chosen by Azar putting all names on paper and pulling two from a hat. Hey Presto!!
Photo Stolen propercourse
The winners will have till Sunday 1st August 2014 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.
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Post by Azar
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Today’s review and give-away were supposed to have been about the contents of a very large bottle of an historic Italian EdT. I have decided to reserve judgment on this fragrance until I get to know it better. There is plenty of juice to play with. I have been spraying it liberally on myself, on B-Azar, Fender, on the towels and linens and have even considered using it as a room freshener. Needing a substitute victim for this post I began digging around in the chaos of my perfume storage and came upon something red, black and squat, about 50% remained in the 100 ml bottle. Just one spray filled the room with romantic memories. – the original version of Dior Hypnotic Poison, EdT.
Photo Stolen Fragrantica
Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Apricot, plum, coconut
Heart: Tuberose, jasmine, lily-of-the-valley, rose, brazilian rosewood, caraway
Base: Sandalwood, almond, vanilla, musk
The first version of Hypnotic Poison was created for Dior in 1998 by Annick Menardo (responsible for Lolita Lempicka and Bulgari Black among others).
My immediate experience of HP was rich vanilla and a lot of fruit, a not quite edible compote of plum, coconut and vanilla drying down to jasmine and a bouquet of flowers that were too mixed up to sort out. At the heart bitter almond (the scent of cyanide), caraway, various woods and an impression of spices were reminiscent of the original version of Dior Poison. The startling opening and scary sweet vibe of the first Poison were barely noticeable but still obvious enough to make this semi-gourmand sister scent a truly hypnotic contradiction between the delicious and the dangerous. Hypnotic Poison may have been one of the earlier fruity florals but has very little in common with the syrupy concoctions available today.
Photo Stolen Wikipedia
If you happen to have a bottle of this early version gathering dust, resurrect it immediately! I’m sure you will remember, as I did, why you enjoyed it so much. I have no experience with the newer 2008 version – L’Elixir Hypnotic Poison by Francois Demachy. Do you know this one? Does it work for you?
YUM! I am now going to have another spray-bite of this almost poisonous and not really forbidden fruit!
Azar xx
Photo Stolen lavanyasrecipes
This week we will have 2 winners who will each get:
1 x 2 ml spray decant of the 1998 version of Hypnotic Poison EdT
1 x 2ml spray decant of the historic Italian referred to at the beginning of this post
P&H Anywhere in the world
Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.
You must tell me how you follow APJ
and
Please leave a comment about your favorite re-discovered oldie and/or your take on any version of Poison or Hypnotic Poison.
Extra Chance?
Tweet: @OzPerfumeJunkie Hypnotic Poison EdT: DIOR 1998 #GIVEAWAY http://wp.me/p3PURw-313 @Dior #Perfume
Entries Close Thursday 31st July 2014 10pm Australian EST and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winners will be chosen by random.org
The winners will have till Sunday 1st August 2014 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.
Hello Fabulous Fumies,
This is a fragrance I have long loved, every now and then I would spritz it in the department stores and never purchased it but often looked at it for a purchase but would be tempted away by something else, something newer or more towards the top of my list. I haven’t even owned a decant, and nowadays it’s extremely affordable at the discounters. Weird. The bottle is great with its fun pumper and I love the lilac so I bought a bottle for my BFF Kath a while back and today I’m stealing it off her to write a review.
Photo Stolen Fragrantica
Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Anise, violet, green ivy
Heart: Licorice, almond, orris, iris, cherry, amaryllis, heliotrope
Base: Tonka, vanilla, white musk, vetiver, praline
What everyone else says about Lolita Lempicka EdP is not the way I smell it. It opens sweet sugar and almond, with a fizzy drink like Fanta bubbling over it. It’s fun, frivolous and totally fabulous. I don’t get any ivy or violet at all and cool rooty or even carroty iris seems nowhere to be found., not as I know it anyway. I do get the praline, vanilla and some resins through the heart and base though which offers some sweet depths, some heft that plays counterpoint with the lovely PEZ like fizz of the higher notes. I don’t really get a great change through Lolita Lempicka EdP but it gradually slides into the base without losing anything, just changing scent volumes. I think I need to spend some more time with Lolita Lempicka EdP, I’m sure it has some secrets hidden that only repeated wearings will unravel.
Photo Stolen Wikipedia
I am no great fan of Angel but I am a fan of Lolita Lempicka EdP, it is a calmer, prettier and less strident good time, there is still the candy floss vibe but without the headache inducing size. Yes they have both become cliches but I think that Lolita Lempicka EdP is still an extremely viable fragrance choice. I get excellent projection and sillage, scent life is really good at over 5 hours before it has faded to a sweet nothing.
Further reading: Bois de Jasmin and Now Smell This
Fragrance Shop has $22/50ml
My Perfume Samples starts at $2/ml
Have you spent any time in Lolita Lempicka EdP? Great fragrance, I’ve had such fun wearing it the last few days.
Portia xx
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Post by Ainslie Walker
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There’s nothing like the smell of Petrol. Grease. Rubber. Tyres. Oil. Smoke. Welding. They are smells that smell naughty yet nice. Bad, but so very good.
Photo Stolen Fragrantica
Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Lapsang souchon, bergamot, rose, green tea
Heart: Jasmine, cedar, sandalwood
Base: Leather, musk, vanilla, oakmoss, amber
Bulgari Black is almost all those things. If it had a soundtrack it would be from the movie grease or cry baby . You have all the grease, leather and slick of a hot mechanic working on a vintage car in the 50’s combined with the pretty and innocent puff of floral rose-pink powder coming from a cardigan and pigtail wearing prom queen, perched picnicking on some grassy knoll drinking tea from a thermos. (yes there is a touch of green and also some tea in the midst of this fragrance)
Photo Stolen Wikipedia
This scent is like drag racing on a track of bitumen wearing a leather jacket. We have smoke, leather, burning rubber, black rubber, woods, tyres…a little bit of animal…pheromones?? Bold and verging on overpowering for the first 20 minutes or so when suddenly the sweet vanillas of hers seep through…vanilla-rose riding through with a cloud of smoke following…giving the sweetness a slight candied and almost amber touch. Top notes hint at bergamot, rounded and citrus. It’s a busy highway in a city next to a park.
There is another familiar smell…it’s hard to describe but it reminds me of the smell of inside my pencil case at school…pencils? wood shavings? Perhaps this is the ingredient that makes this scent matte to me…a suede leather, if you will. Even as an adult the interiors of my handbags smell a little of this in time…paper/pencils/pens/leather/fabric/the hint of some old perfume samples. One cannot overlook the packaging of this one either. It is a gorgeous bottle, no lid, encased in black rubber. Sexy.
Photo Stolen danielle_blue Flickr
I like this tough, soft, modern yet retro frag. It’s kind of mainstream with a big beautiful twist…it’s the sort of thing we would of expected from Lady Gaga’s frag/hype/marketing, but didn’t receive. It also comes at a great price.
Further reading: Bois de Jasmin and Muse In Wooden Shoes
FragranceShop has $28/75ml before coupon
My Perfume Samples starts at $2/ml
Put it on your Christmas list, girls and boys as I am positive this can be worn by both men and women!!
I cannot wait to hear how it wears on you!
Australian Perfume Junkies 