Amouage Library Collection: Opus IV by Jacques Flori for Amouage 2010

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Post by Sister Mary Magdalen, Patron Saint of Perfumers

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Peace APJ,

Tis the season: for the upward curl of incense, for journeys and visitors from afar, for the exchange of gifts, peak season no vacancies and the occasional unplanned pregnancy. Whatever is going on at your place I hope it’s fragrant. It certainly is here with the sisters. Both a busy and reflective time of year, the cloisters are shrouded from matins to vespers with billowing frankincense. What better to focus my meditations in this holy time than Amouage Library Collection Opus IV.

Amouage Library Collection: Opus IV by Jacques Flori for Amouage 2010

Opus IV Amouage FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Coriander, grapefruit, amalfi lemon, mandarin orange
Heart: Cardamom, caraway, elemi, rose, rosehip, violet
Base: Incense, French labdanum, musk

This was unknown to me until a generous benefactor aware of my love of resinous fragrances bestowed a small sample upon me.

Immediately I understood I was no longer in the mystical cool veil of an ecclesiastical resin, this fragrance is an immediate jumble of sweetness, citrus oils and spices, as though the scent of someone’s pre-dinner lime cordial has lingered through until the arrival of pudding. And what a pudding! Laden with cinnamon and clove brandied fruits, boozy sweet and rich. The feasting is most certainly wrapped around by the scent of a piney Tannenbaum.

Opus IV Amouage Pine Trees John Vetterli FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

Then, like a miracle, incense rises. It is a smoky, earthy olibanum as though from the burning of darker, lower grade tears that can give almost a urinous aroma. Wonderful stuff, it gathers strength and becomes the soul of the scent.

The other elements remain and mellow joined by rose and labdanum in becoming the harmonious choir to this soloist, a warm and sonorous tenor.

I am a humble woman of modest good works, and I confess I feel somewhat of an imposter wearing this as it smells like the sweat of a hardworking angel on my skin.

Opus IV Amouage Leloir Jacob_Wrestling_with_the_Angel WikiCommonsPhoto Stolen WikiCommons

Now I read that the aim of the Library Collection is to “defy categorisation, transcend gender, and allow the wearer to create their own unique narrative”. Oh, that’s just what happened, isn’t it?

Opus IV pulsed off my skin for half the day and received several favourable comments, so the sillage is admirable. Some may find it too intimate or distracting for professional settings, but I found it easy and comfortable to wear.

Opus IV Amouage anime-angel-boy GTArcadePhoto Stolen GTArcade (Problem using image please get in touch)

Further reading: Perfume Shrine and The Non Blonde
LuckyScent has $355/100ml
Surrender To chance has samples starting at $4/.5ml

Pray tell, ye faithful, what books have you taken from the Amouage Library? Is there more I should know?

My fond prayer is that you have all rested well and can greet this new year refreshed and reinspired.

Sister Mary Magdalen, Patron Saint of Perfumers

Louis Vuitton Presents the Singapore City Guide

Heya Fragrant Travel Nuts,

In under 3 minutes Louis Vuitton is about to show you a couple of things in Singapore that you probably never thought of doing, and a few on everyone’s lists.

No matter what style of travel you choose, backpacker to 6 star, there are always a few “Must See” destinations in every city you land, disembark or alight. Of course I have been to cities and not seen them all, often unwittingly or because I’ve been working in the clubs and our hosts have taken us to do very low key local stuff instead (equally valid way to see a city but very different). Louis Vuitton always manages to pick a couple of things I’ve not done in the city or did too quickly to enjoy.

 Singapore_skyline_viewed_from_Gardens_by_the_Bay_East_-_20120426Photo Stolen WikiCommons

I hope you enjoy a little slice of Singapore, one of the few places I’ve landed in that I felt totally at home.
Portia xx

 Louis Vuitton Presents the Singapore City Guide

Cadjmere by Pierre Guillaume for Parfumerie Generale 2007

Hello Frag Family,

It was very early in 2014 and Michael & I were traveling through Europe, first stop Vienna in Austria where we met up with Birgit and Sandra of Olfactoria’s Travels and Val the Cookie Queen who writes both for OT and APJ. Vienna is its most beautiful in winter but sadly 2014 was not so cold as previous years and there was almost no snow, to make up for that loss we did get loads of rain which meant the city was greener than I’d ever seen it while maintaining its bare branches on the trees. Basically, though we were there in winter it felt like we had arrived in spring, a very pleasant way to see Vienna especially for Michael’s first glimpse of Europe.

Of course, what is it that perfumistas do when they are in a new city? We shopped fragrances! I did a fair spend at the CHANEL store there and a couple of vintage finds in the smaller, niche hole in the wall stores that Vienna seems to have an abundance of yet also these places seem to have stock from 60 years ago too.

Cadjmere by Pierre Guillaume for Parfumerie Generale 2007

Cadjmere Parfumerie Generale FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Myrtle, cypress, Brazilian rosewood, blood mandarin, vanilla, sandalwood, coconut milk, amber

Amber, vanilla and something green burst off my skin as soon as I spritz Cadjmere. They turn almost immediately to this weird, funky almost nasty curdled green leafy milk. It’s interesting, intriguing and awkward: LOVING IT! The notes really aren’t correlating to what I am smelling, what I get here in my head is a bakery in a plant nursery and lumberyard that’s in turn right next to a tip. There’s something of that compost sweetness, rotting vegetation and plastic. Ha ha ha ha! I have just read back what I wrote. OMG! I make it sound dreadful but it’s not.

SONY DSCPhoto Stolen WikiMedia

Pierre Guillaume has a way with fragrance and often combines beautiful sweet notes, comfortable and comforting notes with something dark, less desirable. What then happens for me is that I will happily smell the sweetness and every so often I will be surprised by an off kilter piece of the puzzle that will draw me in again, searching for it.

Into the heart of Cadjmere I find most of the sharp edges rounded nicely and we are in sweet woods territory, I don’t know if Pierre Guillaume  was using Australian sandalwood or a chemical sandalwood but it has some of the lovely eucalyptus menthol hints that the Australian one displays (or it could be some of the greenery). I don’t know and am often getting stuff wrong note wise, it doesn’t matter.

Cadjmere Parfumerie Generale Red Sandlewood WikiCommonsPhoto Stolen WikiCommons

What does matter is that Cadjmere is ridiculously gorgeous, a totally beautiful fragrance that will warm the cockles of your heart and give you comfort if you are low. Later on I get a fabulously animal fur and resins mingling with the woods, glorious.

Longevity is above average and for the first couple of hours sillage is moderate, you are fragrant without skunking, after that Cadjmere hums along quietly for hours and hours. If you spray your clothes they will still smell fabulous next day MMMM MMMMMM!

Further reading: Olfactoria’s Travels and The Non Blonde
I was given my sample at Le Parfum in Vienna, Austria
First In Fragrance have €95/50ml
Surrender To Chance have samples starting at $5/ml

Have you tried or bought Cadjmere? Are you a Pierre Guillaume fan? Do you have a favourite?
Portia xx

Versace Blonde by Nathalie Feisthauer for Versace 1995

Hi there Sniffa Crew,

Today we are going back to 1995. It was a particularly good year for me, I was finishing up my time in London (which was totally incredible in itself) and coming home to Sydney in time for Christmas with the family. I cannot tell you how excited I was. HOME!

Anyway, we got this fragrance in Australia in time for Christmas but I think we might have had it for Christmas 1996 because I was working as a drag hostess at one of our clubs and we had to give out samples of Versace Dreamer and A’Men by Mugler on the same night. The whole club smelt incredible with everyone dousing themselves in fragrance and the night was a huge success, one of my favourite nights ever. Though it took me years to stop retching whenever someone was wearing A’Men because right at the end of the night someone Guerrilla spritzed me and it went in my mouth, not nice and the scent seemed to stick in my nostrils for about 3 days.

This is a vintage frag but you can still get your hands on a bottle of extrait/parfum for very reasonable prices

Versace Blonde by Nathalie Feisthauer for Versace 1995

Blonde Versace fragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Gardenia, Pitosporum flowers, violet, orange blossom, bergamot
Heart: Tuberose, daffodil, ylang-ylang, carnation
Base: Benzoin, musk, civet, sandalwood

Perfumer Nathalie Feisthauer has worked on a few frags that you’ve definitely heard of: Hermes Eau des Merveilles, VC&A Collection Extraordinaire Gardenia Petale, ELdO Putain des Palaces and Delicious Closet Queen as well as Must de Cartier Pour Homme. This is just a very small portion of her output.

How does Blonde wear on me? Well it opens green and sappy with a photorealistic (but clean) gardenia that’s sweet, green like bulb flower stems, creamy and the whole experience in the first 5-10 minutes is one of enormous presence. It’s not mentioned but I get a mild galbanum feeling through the opening too. HUGE! Outrageously gorgeous white flowers lightly framed by the citrus.

The opening of the extrait is sweeter and fruitier, very canned peachy.

Marilyn Monroe WikiCommonsPhoto Stolen WikiCommons

No need to fear, Blonde doesn’t stay at these nuclear sizes for long. 15 minutes in and though you are still quite fragrant the power has been turned down considerably and my head can think of other things. Here is where Blonde is really beautiful and wearable. The heady mix of white and yellow flowers are kept crisp by the carnation and already some of the resins make their way in to give depth and breadth. Then Blonde stays pretty much the same for a few hours getting more lived in and raunchy, up to 5 on a really good day, and slowly the whole fragrance goes from that very sensual animalic base as it fades leaving a very soft wash of nothing pickable to nothing at all.

 Blonde Versace Marlene-dietrich blonde-venus WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

Further reading: Australian Perfume Junkies
FragranceNet has $40/15ml extrait (I prefer to decant and spritz)
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $4/.5ml extrait

In 2013 I did a LIVE Video Sniff with Blonde, it kinda captures the feeling of the fragrance better than mere words on screen can. Please be ready to hear the word bombastic about 300 times though.

Thanks for wandering through my thoughts on one of my all time favourite fragrances.
Do you have a discontinued fave that you’ve hoarded a few bottles of?
Portia xx

Tama Blough: A Party for Tama

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Tama Blough Oct 18, 1954 – January 9, 2015

Hiya Australian Perfume Junkies,

Tama Blough, who started SF Sniff –  the San Francisco group who’d come together and sniff fragrances (obviously, sorry) and Managing Editor for CaFleurBon is in trouble. We have a fragrant friend in need, diagnosed with incurable cancer and a desire to stay at home with her cat for as long as possible. Tama is not a wealthy person and needs our help to make this small wish come true.

Already the fragrant community has rallied behind this cause: April Aromatics released a Limited Edition fragrance that sold out in minutes, Nina Zolotow set up a GiveForward campaign to raise the $25,000 needed to pay for health care and living expenses (who will BTW give $25 for every blog written about it to a max of $1000, very freaking cool)

Paul Kiler of PK Perfumes has now created TNT (Tama N Tuberose) and is donating 90 percent of all proceeds to Tama’s fundraiser.
60ml/$150  90 percent ($135)  going directly to a fund managed by Tama’s family.

To buy TNT click here<<JUMP

Do check the original Ca Fleure Bon post about TNT for more information

A Party for Tama

Coming up on the 17th of January are a couple of amazing events in San Fransisco. If you are nearby then you should definitely think about attending.

Private Lunch and Auction: $35 includes Lunch and Auction (more details about Auction nearer the date)

Shopping event & Cocktails: A percentage of all sales will go to Tama from the Tigerlily event.

And Tama, if you get to read this. Best of luck, cuddle the kitty from us at the Australian Perfume Junkies..
Portia & the APJ Crew

Tama Party

Gabriella’s 2015 Top Five Traditional Masculine Scents

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Post by Gabriella

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Hello perfume peeps,

As time has gone by, I have become less shy talking about my blogging and sharing my love of scent with the wider public. When I do mention my passion to colleagues and friends, I often get questions such as: “I need a new perfume. I love Coco Mademoiselle, what do you recommend?” or “What is the perfume you like the most?” Pleasingly, men are as curious as women, with most asking whether I review men’s colognes or aftershaves?

2015 Masculine Fragrances hairy_macho_man boggienightboy DeviantArtPhoto stolen DeviantArt

Gabriella’s 2015 Top Five Traditional Masculine Scents

This always brings a wry smile to my face as most of us here in perfume land have long ignored the gender divide enforced by the “men’s” and “women’s” sections of department stores. However, it did get me thinking as most of what I wear and write about are the Big White Florals and uber-feminine scents. Apart from the experiment when Mr M let me douse him in Fracas, how many non-perfumista menfolk would wear something like Carnal Flower or Fleurissimo?
So, as an attempt to address the issue, I present my top five traditional masculine scents:

Antaeus Chanel Fragrantica

1. Antaeus by Jacques Polge for Chanel 1981

The strong virile hero scent. Antaeus is a machismo concoction of bold proportions that still feels seamless thanks to Mr Polge’s genius. A powerful blend of verdant bergamot and clary sage amplified with rich spices and smooth leather. If you want a scent to put hair on your chest, this is the one.

Fragrantica  lists the following accords:
Top: Lemon, lime, coriander, myrtle, clary sage, and bergamot
Heart: Thyme, basil, rose and jasmine
Base: Patchouli, castoreum, labdanum and oak moss

StrawberryNet has $106.50/50ml
Surrender to Chance has samples starting at $3/ml
Eau Sauvage Christian Dior Fragrantica

2. Eau Sauvage by Edmond Roudnitska for Christian Dior 1966

The epitome of effortless elegance. Eau Sauvage is the Adam of the men’s fragrance world that spawned the Eve of Diorella. To me, the luminosity of the citrus, verdant herbs and something a little sinister and sexy underneath it all means the scent trumps more modern citrus and cologne compositions despite the current watered-down reformulation.

Fragrantica lists the following accords:
Top: Lemon, basil, bergamot, cumin, lavender and fruit
Heart: Jasmine, rose, carnation, iris root, coriander, patchouli and sandalwood
Base: Oak moss, vetiver, musk and amber

Further reading:  Bois de Jasmin
Parfum1 has $122/6.6oz
Surrender to Chance has samples starting at $3/ml
New York Nicolai Parfumeur Fragrantica

3. New York by Patricia de Nicolai for Nicolai Parfumeur Createur 1989

It is just that good. Say lavender and bergamot and I usually run a mile, hence why you’ll never find me raving about Jicky or Bois du Portugal. New York, however, took me from hate to love when we were searching for a new scent for Mr M as I think it is the smoothest, most well- rounded of the combinations on the market. Plus there’s a candied, powdery vibe to the lavender, which makes manages to be both sexy and snuggly.

Fragrantica lists the following accords:
Top: Bergamot, amalfi lemon, cloves, lavender and green notes
Heart: Thyme, cinnamon, pepper, paprika, patchouli and cedar
Base: Amber, vanilla and leather

Further reading:  Olfactoria’s Travels
Luckyscent has $45/30ml
Surrender to Chance has samples starting at $3/ml

Paco Rabanne Paco Rabanne Fragrantica

4. Paco Rabanne Pour Homme by Jean Martel for Paco Rabanne 1973

Debonair in a bottle. A quintessential fougere with piquant notes of rosemary and clary sage, what strikes me most about Pour Homme is the quality and depth of the musk in the drydown. It’s earthy, animalic and seductive, like snuggling into your man’s chest after a heated, passionate night.

Fragrantica lists the following accords:
Top: Rosemary, clary sage and brazilian rosewood
Heart: Tonka bean, lavender and geranium
Base: Honey, amber, musk and oakmoss

Further reading: From Pyrgos
FragranceNet has $44.99/100ml before coupon
Surrender to Chance has samples starting at $3/ml

Polo Ralph Lauren Fragrantica

5. Polo Ralph Lauren for Men by Carlos Benaim for Ralph Lauren 1978

The scent of boyfriends past. Probably a bit OTT now, but god, how I loved this back in the day. Even though it was pretty much ubiquitous in the early 1990s, Polo stood out for being a brooding Heathcliff of a scent amid the onslaught of flimsy aquatics and calones. Deep greens, herbs, spiky woods and a powerful wallop of pine makes this not for the fainthearted.

Fragrantica lists the following accords:
Top: Artemisia, basil and thyme, with spicy notes of cumin, coriander and cloves
Heart: Conifer woods, decorated with notes of patchouli, oakmoss and vetiver
Base: Leather, tobacco and thyme

FragranceNet has $53.99/2oz before coupon
Surrender to Chance has samples starting at $2.99/ml

So what are your top ‘traditional’ masculine scents? Ladies, do you wear any of these? What was the scent that broke the gender divide perfume wise for you once you got past department store classifications?

With much love till next time!
M x

 

All photos stolen Fragrantica unless specified

2015: The Universal Number of 8

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Post by Suzanne R Banks

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Hi APJ,

Happy 2015. Last year I wrote about The Universal Number of 7! In this article I wrote about meeting a numerologist and apart from being totally wonderful and charming, she was very insistent I write about the number 7. So following on from that meeting lets see what’s in store for us next year.

2015: The Universal Number of 8

2015 8 MetroDF_Linea_8 WikimediaPhoto Stolen Wikimedia

In numerology the number 8 represents where we are in our journey, through the cycle of 1 to 9. So with 2015, equaling 8, we are almost at the end of the cycle.

I’ve always associated the number 8 with abundance and money, but the more I read about it the more I realise these are simplifications. There are many kinds of numerology out there and just as many interpretations, so what I can gather about the number 8 and our year in 2015 is:

* 8 is as much about karmic balance and the Law of Cause and effect than it is about money

* the energy of the infinity sign gives us strength and allows us to express our leadership qualities

* we are confident and fair to others

* we can access our personal power (without too much ego) which can not only help others but can also help us reap the benefits of the past 7 years of hard work

* we may have more abundance and money in our lives but it is less important to us than before

* the number 8 is about balance and a greater expression of money vs abundance

* if we are truly living up to the number 8 we can feel and express the need to help those around us

2015 8 infinity_dragons danmwithatwist DeviantArtPhoto Stolen DeviantArt

So what essential oils can we use to meld with the number 8?

1. Sandalwood (Indian or Australian)

– see the needs of the many are met through social awareness throughout the world

– feel your spirit rise within you and overflow to help those in need

2. Cypress

– inspiration and creativity without the need for ego

– clarity and worldliness, softness

3. Patchouli

– world peace

– connect to mother earth

4. Vetiver

– tranquility, abundance

5. Rosewood

– flow of love through the heart chakra

– true “affluence” (meaning “to flow”)

– this is an endangered tree so please see my article Rosewood – A Story of Ecology and Conservation for more info

– Indian rosewood could be used vin its place – Dalbergia sissoo I MUST Have You!

Good luck.

Best wishes.

PEACE.

Remember to treat yourself first, then everyone will benefit.

Suzanne R Banks xx

Suzanne R Banks Blog
Suzanne R Banks Aromatherapy
Suzanne R Banks FaceBook

copyright suzanne

 

Revelation! My new book out now

Please check out my new book REVELATION! – Reveal Your Destiny with Essential Oils

Amazon USA      Amazon AU      Amazon UK

Message in a Bottle by Mark Buxton 2015 + Floriography

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Post by Ainslie Walker

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Picture yourself walking along a beach and discovering a bottle of (undamaged) perfume. What would you do? What might be inside? Where could it have come from? And who might have sent or lost it? Mark Buxton’s soon to be released “Message in a Bottle” conjures up many a romantic scene and barrage of questions for me, both from the name, as well as from the fragrance itself.

Message in a Bottle by Mark Buxton 2015

Message in a Bottle New release for 2015!!

It is beautiful, uplifting, fresh and easy to wear. I had no information or clues about its contents and thus in an attempt to decode its message I turned to researching Floriography. The “language of flowers” was most commonly used in Victorian times and allowed people to send messages through giving and wearing of flowers or a scented handkerchief. Each flower had significance and provided a symbolic message. Sometimes a handkerchief was scented instead.

Message_in_a_bottle Mark Buxton WikiCommonsPhoto Stolen WikiCommons

Message in a Bottle Floriography

Here’s what I discovered about what Buxton’s “Message in a Bottle” may be all about:
Magnolia – freedom, grand splendour, nobility, perseverance, old-fashioned romance and enduring true love – love that lasts throughout time and space.
Neroli – spiritual cleansing and is thought to aid a return to innocence, thus often used at weddings. It symbolises new love blossoming into eternal love and fulfilment.
Ylang-ylang – is strongly aphrodisiac in its properties. A man with one of these in his lapel would certainly mean business!
Petitgrain (Orange leaf) is sweet, slightly sour and citrus in fragrance and is immediately uplifting, promoting a sense of wellbeing and cleanliness. Its freshness would have stood out during Victorian times, where it was uncommon to bathe regularly.
Jasmine – symbolises demure beauty, elegance and comfort for the soul. Indian jasmine references attachment, whilst other jasmines can represent sensuality, modesty and grace.
Rose – multiple layers of scented petals represent everlasting beauty and love. Every colour rose has its own meaning. Usually in perfumery we use damask, which denotes love or pink Bulgarian roses, which mean happiness. Red roses scream of love and passion and are traditionally the most popular way, even today, to say “I love you”, white are for purity, yellow for infidelity, tea rose for never forgetting and receiving a bunch of thornless roses means love at first sight.
Ambergris – aphrodisiac and a fixative from way back, its marine notes further enhance the mystery surrounding a bottle washing ashore. Traditionally ambergris is found just like a Message in a Bottle, washed up on the seashore. It’s marine, faecal and musky odour screams of “sex.”
Cistus – belongs to the rockrose family and it’s the resin from the leaves (labdanum) that is generally used in perfumery. In the past goats and sheep were herded through the bushes and the hair on their underbellies collected the sticky resin, which was then combed or cut out. Balsamic and resinous in aromatherapy it is thought of as a calming aphrodisiac, which also enhances intuition, elevates emotions and keeps one grounded.
Civet – to stabilise a fragrance and the civets of the world use their secretions to attract a mate during mating season. In this bottle it’s more than likely synthetic, however, the message of attraction is clear.
Sandalwood – invokes deep states of relaxation, meditation and to cleanse negativity.

Message Bottle Mark Buxton Victorian Fashion 1866 Charmaine Zoes Marvelous Melange FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

Strength and longevity is great. It’s a beautiful bouquet of creamy wood, floral and amber that feels fresh yet beautiful, both for day and evening wear.
Soon available at Libertine

Have you tried Mark Buxton’s fragrances yet?
Ainslie Walker x

L’Incendiaire by Christopher Sheldrake for Serge Lutens 2014

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Post by Tina G

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Lying in the palm of my hand; a small vial of dark-golden intriguing mystery. There are few reviews, and fewer notes lists for me to get a pre-conceived impression of what I may experience on opening, so the next step is obvious – there is a little bubble of liquid here that simply needs to be on some skin.

L’Incendiaire by Christopher Sheldrake for Serge Lutens 2014

L`incendiaire Serge Lutens FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

A moderate swipe of L’Incendiaire releases a resinous incense with dry wooden undertones. It is loud, silage has a massive kick initially but there is also something elusive about the scent that soon makes me want a few more swipes, so I do. This brings the woods to the foreground, and the incense/resin/wood combination is not dissimilar to those I’ve come across in other fragrances. This changes in the first half hour though…

L`incendiaire Serge Lutens Mednyanszky, Laszlo Autumn Field at Twilight Quick Fix FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

From this initial dry opening, things start to get darker. I’ve stepped out of an autumnal field onto a path which heads into the dark forest. There is a damp sweetness. I can smell thick heavy treacle and the over-ripeness of slightly decayed wind-fallen plumbs. The oudh note gives a hint of animals out of sight in the undergrowth. The wood notes are wet, like fallen logs covered in leaves. The fragrance has a physical coolness through a menthol note which gets stronger during the first hour, which becomes a cold sensitive spot on my arm like the heat is being extracted from my skin.

L`incendiaire Serge Lutens Gumpy_Forest DieAndBeholdMyWrath DeviantArtPhoto Stolen DeviantArt

After the first hour, the mentholated sensation spreads into an overall greenness. There is also a smoky note like clean fresh cigarette ash. Strangely, the damp wood smell feels like it has dried out – the decaying wood from the forest floor has found the sun once more and the rotting has been abated temporarily.

Longevity for this parfum is good, 8+ hours, although it does become stale after that time on my skin. The silage is interesting – I mentioned above that my first swipe was followed up with a few more as I found L’Incendiaire elusive, but it is more than that – it is fragmented. It sits neatly on the skin, but it doesn’t project so much as ‘waft’, dancing around, influenced by movement and breezes. Testing L’Incendiaire I found it consistently has three stages but the amount of application can race them through. Larger applications brings the oudh into play in the first 10 minutes. I quite enjoyed a slower story though, so even if the silage twists and turns in its playfulness, I’d recommend the less is more approach.

L`incendiaire Serge Lutens Russell Patterson Where there's smoke there's fire 1925 TrialsAndErrors FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

Further reading: Perfume Posse and Colognoisseur
Barney’s New York has $600/50ml
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $8/.25ml

Will you be trying L`Incendiaire by Serge Lutens?

Tina G

Eau de Cologne Du Coq by Aime Guerlain 1894

Hello Lovelies,

Just recently I was trolling one of the fragrance discounters we have here in Australia, the good thing about living here is that there are so few perfumistas and quite often stuff gets left in shops for years. I was lucky enough to grab Eau de Cologne Du Coq in the gold foil and black packaging you see below. I’m not sure when Guerlain stopped production of this packaging for Eau de Cologne Du Coq but when I was a squirt bitch in the late 1980s and early 1990s this was the packaging we sold Guerlain in, so quite excited really.

Eau de Cologne Du Coq by Aime Guerlain 1894

Eau de Cologne du Coq Guerlain FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Orange, citruses, neroli, bergamot, lemon
Heart: Patchouli, lavender, jasmine
Base: Sandalwood, oakmoss

I looked up the Batch Code and my bottle was produced November 2003. Woo Hoo! I am pleased.

Eau de Cologne du Coq Guerlain Boat Geograph.orgPhoto Stolen Geograph.org

The opening zzzzZING is all about the citrus whooshing away, the happiest and most refreshing burst of sugary sweet citrus that is tart, cool, candy-ish and fizzy. If this doesn’t lift your spirits I don’t know what will. I find myself smiling soon after I spritz and wishing Jin were nearby to spritz him too. Not because he is sad but because this is fun, and so over the top it’s almost a citrus caricature; simple and exaggerated. Lavender slowly makes its way in as the BIG citrus burns off, it is calm and the patchouli is just slightly earthy and already the creamy, buttery, sandalwood goodness is rounding out all the corners and making the whole a delightful and soft scent that feels languid and lazy, but I could also imagine Eau de Cologne Du Coq on a very busy or stressed person who needed to feel some imagined space around them to be able to think and breathe. That’s the kind of thing Eau de Cologne Du Coq would be perfect for, the proverbial breath of fresh air could be really talking about Eau de Cologne Du Coq.

Eau de Cologne du Coq Guerlain Citrus Shaun Dunphy  FlickrPhoto Stolen Shaun Dunphy  Flickr

I should never have read The Non-Blonde‘s review today before spritzing because I get the honey accent she talks about where never before had I even an inkling, and I can’t decide if I am smelling it or if auto suggestion has tampered with my head. Never mind, it’s here now and I find it beguiling, both sweet and animal. It’s not a huge part of the fragrance but once you go looking for honey you’ll smell it and your Eau de Cologne Du Coq experience will be forever changed. the citrus holds on remarkably well and even in the end there is a very faint sparkle overlaying the woodsy nothing.

I’m lucky to get 3 hours, really 2 hours of fragrance and an hour of soft, amorphous something that doesn’t really smell like anything particularly but also is not me, great choice for a short burst of lovely and then back to whatever it is you needed respite from. Totally unisex, and only too strong for work in the first 5 minutes, then it settles beautifully. Wonderful for after a lunchtime gym session to take you through till the evening scent takes over.

Eau de Cologne du Coq Guerlain Koeln wikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

Further reading: The Non-Blonde and Guerlain Perfumes Blogspot
FragranceNet has $92/100ml before coupon
Surrender To Chance starts at $3/ml

Till tomorrow please be nice to yourself,It’s hard to be happy when someone is always mean to you.

Portia x