beauty

Vanille Orient by Jean-Claude Astier + Geoffrey Nejman for M. Micallef 2012

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Portia

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Hey there Frag Heads,

You may remember a few weeks ago I bought a bottle of M Micallef Vanille Marine? Well looking through my decants this week I discovered 5ml of another in the line. Because I loved the other so much I’d basically ignored todays and so I thought we could look at it together today.

Vanille Orient by M. Micallef 2012

Vanille Orient by Jean-Claude Astier + Geoffrey Nejman

Vanille Orient M. Micallef FragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Spices, vanilla, sandalwood, amber, musk

Opening is vanilla, quickly tempered by sweet citrus and warm resins. There is some cardamom or something equally green/smooth floating around and a smokiness on a low level. A simple creamy amber, very easy wear, is the heart. Nothing ground breaking or distinctive but it does smell very luxurious.

I keep smelling myself and thinking that Vanille Orient transports me to an expensive European hotel lobby in winter. Resinous, woody, balsams and a clean musk with a faint reminder of long dead cigarettes and coffee. It’s a clean, warm, comfortable scent that would make a terrific candle.

Vanille Orient M. Micallef istanbul tpsdave pixabayPDI

I don’t know if you ever go to art galleries but there is a certain slim line 40+ woman who wears a black wool polo neck jumper, boot cut jeans or a tailored skirt and comfortable boyishly styled shoes. Often her greying and kept natural hair is cut in a modern super short bob and she accessorises with white gold. I have come a ross these wonderful women and they will chat about the art sometimes. They LOVE this kind of amber. A happy middle ground between the sweet, bakery style and the bitch tar leather ambers.

This wears resinous rather than sweet, is dry and warm with no animalics or darkness. A 100% comfortable amber that smells very good. Excellent for wafting in the cool halls of galleries.

Vanille Orient M. Micallef the-louvre unsplash pixabayPDI

Further reading: Notable Scents and Muse In Wooden Shoes
Feeling Sexy Australia has $245/100ml with FREE Australian Shipping

What do you wear to go to the gallery?
Portia xx

Homo*Elegans Experience Kit GIVEAWAY WINNER

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Portia

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Hey Crew,

Thanks to the Homo*Elegans guys for their generosity.
Let’s see who won
Portia xx

 

Homo*Elegans Experience Kit GIVEAWAY WINNER

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week there will be 1 winner who will receive:
1 x Homo*Elegans Experience Kit
P&H Anywhere in the world

 

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Closed Wednesday 14th June 2017 10pm Australian EsT
Winner was chosen by random.org

Monica Beaton

The winners will have till Wednesday 21st June 2017 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit

Chanel No. 5 Le Parfum Cheveux

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Erica Golding

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Hello to all of you gorgeously scented readers out there!

Today I am excited to dish about a new limited edition treasure that I didn’t even know existed. Last weekend, after a visit to the museum with family, I just so happened to accidentally pop into the Chanel boutique. Oopsie! 😉 While I was there, sniffing euphorically, I found out about:

Chanel No. 5 Le Parfum Cheveux

Chanel No. 5 Le Parfum Cheveux Hair Mist CHANELCHANEL

This sweet little frosted bottle of hair mist is adorable and affordable! It’s only 40 mL, so it’s a fleeting luxury. But some of the best things in life are ephemeral, don’t you think? This is a flare of joy to savor in the moment! The petal-pink formula does not contain alcohol, which makes it great for scenting your tresses without potential damage. The atomizer produces a full-bodied fine mist, just perfect.

As for how it smells, the opening begins a bit more powdery than how No. 5 perfume presents on my skin. The aldehydes are more muted in the hair mist, so the aroma doesn’t have as much of a high-pitched soapy vibration. The signature Chanel rose and jasmine absolutes preside like royalty, delightfully noble. Overall, the hair mist wears a bit softer and silkier than the perfume. The scent projects a tender sweetness as a glowing halo, and I really do associate this quality with the rosy blush tone of the liquid. It’s an absolutely divine manifestation of synesthesia for me.

Chanel No. 5 Le Parfum Cheveux Hair Mist ractapopulous PixabayPDI

I’ve already gotten several compliments on this charming luxury, and it brings me such pleasure to know that people subconsciously enjoy the sillage because they associate Chanel No. 5 with beloved memories.

Chanel won’t have this hair mist available for very long. It’s an online exclusive, but some of the boutiques begged for a few to put in stock. Snatch one up while you can! And if you’re a fan of Chance or Chance Eau Tendre, those are currently available as well!

Further reading: Non Blonde

Hope you have a spectacular day or fabulous evening, wherever you are!

Love and light,

-Erica

Giovanna Antonelli: New Perfume House

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Val the Cookie Queen

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Olá APJ!

Let me give you a brief introduction to a trio of new perfumes. Giovanna Antonelli is a household name in Brazil, a superstar. I think 3.6 million Twitter and more than 5 million Instagram followers probably indicates indicates that. She is an actress and probably best known in South America and in Portugal for her soap operas success. Now at this point in any advertising blurb I would already be turning the page. Had it not been for The Silver Fox suggesting that I try them I would be long gone. And let´s be honest here, Giovanna Antonelli does
sound so much more attractive than our Anglo-Saxon names!

After creating a line of nail polishes, jewellery, and being involved in some cosmetics, Giovanna turned her thoughts to a perfume line. Being into perfume herself she decided against a straightforward celeb brand and had three more specialised perfumes created for her, under her name. Giovanna Antonelli harbour no lofty ideas of revolutionising the perfume industry. Nor are their fragrances full of the typical eau de niche notes, you know – generic base note chemicals, ISO E etc, etc, etc. (These evolve, top notes, heart notes and base notes!) Three years were spent in the preparation and refining of these absolutely lovely perfumes.

Giovanna Antonelli: New Perfume House

I have been wearing the three perfumes over for the last few weeks. Proper full body applications! Many thanks to Lionel from Courtois/Mourot Perfumes for the travel bottles. It makes such a difference to be able to wear perfume as intended.

 

411 INTENSO A chypre floral.

Top: Bulgarian Rose, bergamot, pepper, cammomile.
Middle: Jasmin sambac, ylang ylang, peony.
Base: Patchouli, Amber, Vetiver, sandalwood

611 EXTREMO A floral oriental.

Top: Rhubarb, pear, bergamot
Middle: Tubereuse, Egyptian jasmine, hawthorn
Base: Liquorice, iris, benzoin, vanilla

 

 

811 ABSOLUTO A spicy oriental.

Top: Bergamot, pepper, cloves, lavender
Middle: Green, jasmine, honey, tolu
Base: Patchouli, amber, musk, vanilla

I am sat here at my desk, wearing all three. Each one is rich, full-bodied, rounded, and absolutely lovely. Exuberant, vivacious, heated, and absolutely lovely. In these days of so many things smelling the same, lovely is indeed the highest praise. And I will wear every single drop, not something I say very often.

Around 150 Euros for a 100 mls. Take a look at Giovanna Antonelli. You can practice your French and Portuguese, the English site is up and coming.

Obrigada Giovanna Antonelli.

Beijos
CQ

Homo*Elegans: Experience Kit

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 26 Comments

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Portia

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Hey There FUMIES!

In Milan at Essence 2017 I was hanging a bit with my mate Margo. As I was so overwhelmed by the event on the first day I asked Margo to point me in the direction of some Must-Smell-Houses. In the end she only directed me to one house, a reasonably new crew called Homo*Elegans. The worst name for a brand in the history of branding. When she told me the name I laughed in her face. Who could carry a line with that name in their store?

Judith, Margo & Val the Cookie Queen at dinner in Milan

Beyond the terrible name she told me to go smell their perfumes. They are the one new thing you’ve not tried in the whole event that you MUST get your nose on. So I did. The boys gave me an Experience Kit.

Homo*Elegans

Tadzio Homoelegans FragranticaFragrantica

Tadzio by Michele Marin for Homoelegans 2015

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Lime, orange, ivy, cucumber
Heart: Black currant, sea water, orange blossom
Base: Immortelle, patchouli, opoponax, musk

I love the cool, frosty opening to Tadzio, it’s freaky fun. Even as the salty black currant comes in the mint stays and the cucumber adds its wetness. Even later when the smooth, warm baseline appears there are still small hints of the coolness in the beginning. Tadzio is my favourite of the three by far.

Quality Of Flesh Homoelegans FragranticaFragrantica

Quality Of Flesh by Michele Marin for Homoelegans 2015

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Juniper berries, pink pepper, black pepper
Heart: Narcissus, patchouli, styrax, costus
Base: Leather, civet, benzoin, castoreum

My nose is instantly hit with the leather, dank wet rooty earth and animalics. This wetland foxhole smell is only slightly abated by the smooth creaminess of resins and patchouli. Quality of Flesh smells funky. It’s the most Indie smelling of the three.

Paloma y Raices Homoelegans FragranticaFragrantica

Paloma y Raices by Maurizio Cerizza for Homoelegans 2017

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Peppermint, green accord, mamey, grapefruit
Heart: Tuberose, ylang-ylang, coffee, tobacco
Base: Tonka bean, tolu, peru balsam, vanilla

Imagine if they made a chocolate coated biscuit filled with tuberose and ylang cream. A rich, tropical, dreamy scent that is sweet but not in the modern fairy floss way, much more a nuanced resinous sweetness surrounded by dark chocolate.  The base is all warm, clean flesh. Paloma y Raices becomes a soft but noticeable skin scent, perfect for close quarters and undressing.

La Via del Profumo GIVEAWAY

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week there will be 1 winner who will receive:
1 x Homo*Elegans Experience Kit
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOW DO YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Please tell us which Homo*Elegans fragrance sounds most you?

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Wednesday 14th June 2017 10pm Australian EdsT and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winners will be chosen by random.org
The winners will have till Wednesday 21st June 2017 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit

Saturday Question: Which 3 Perfume Notes Do You Look For?

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 123 Comments

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Portia

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Hello Fellow Fumies,

I have had an idea. Well, actually I’m copying an idea from Olfactoria’s Travels. Once a week there used to be a Question. Everyone would chime in with an answer, chat with other responders and it would be a generally fun events each week. Taking sides never meant taking offence and everyone kept it respectful and light.

I’d like to carry on that tradition, maybe you’ll see it on the weekend or chime in through the week. Hopefully you will come back and see if anyone has responded to your comment and you can reply to them.

If we get over 200 responses I will draw a $20 Surrender To Chance Gift Card. Every comment will get a place in the draw, so if you comment purposefully on your own or another comment you’ll have a chance, random.org will draw the winner on Friday and the winner will be announced in next Saturdays question.

Last Weeks Winner:

Send me an eMail to portia _ turbo at yahoo dawt com dawt au

PDI

Saturday Question

Which 3 Perfume Notes Do You Look For?

OK, so most of us have a few trigger notes. You know, the ones you see in a fragrance note list that instantly catch your attention. Maybe you love it because it’s a note that you love to have overwhelming you. It could be a back story player that you find easy to notice and its participation always makes you smile. A Base note that you love because it will be the one you smell the longest in your fragrant wear. Perhaps its a top note that gives you shivers. I think we all have a few notes that we recognise with love but lets keep it to three today.

My answer:

Amber: Though not every fragrance that has amber is a favourite I do tend to like my scents warm, resinous and sweet. There’s something so comfortable about ambers, and fragrances that include it in their main ingredients. It’s a little deeper than vanilla but not so darkly animal as labdanum/styrax/benzoin alone. Some of my most loved ambers include L’Artisan L’Eau d’Ambre, Huitiem Art Ambre Cerulean, Jessica simpson Fancy Nights and Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan.

Rose: Roses come in so many different scent families. They can be sweet and jammy, citrus or tea, smoky, boozy, fruity and a whole host of others, or combined. There’s something incredibly precious about how a rose smells. Maybe because Mum loved them so much and grew them in our garden. I could have been influenced by the adoration for roses in prose, advertisement and gardening books but I really do feel a genuine attachment to the fragrances that roses emit. Neela Vermeire Creations Mohur, Soivohle Rosa sur Reuse, Olympic Orchids Ballets Rouges, Parfums DelRae Coup de Foudre and Annick Goutal Ce Soir ou Jamais are just some of my rose loves.

Lavender: Lavender is so soothing yet manages to also be gloriously alive and breathtakingly beautiful. Considering what a fragrant staple it’s been its poor reputation in the 21st century seems unwarranted. Personally I can take it straight up, blended among the crowd, a central or backing role. It scent refreshes my brain and lets me sleep like a log, whenever I change the sheets I spritz the new ones with L’Occitane Lavande de Haute-Provence. Other Lavender loves include CHANEL Boy, Le Galion Cologne Nocturne, Guerlain Jicky, Hermessence Brin de Réglisse and Jean Paul Gaultier Le Mâle.

 

So my question to you is

Which 3 Perfume Notes Do You Look For?

Samsara by Jean-Paul Guerlain for Guerlain 1989

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 10 Comments

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Portia

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Hello lovelies,

Samsara has great memories for me of my Mum. I bought her some one year and she wore it often. It’s weird but I rarely hear people speak of this particular Guerlain, it’s still in department stores so must be a good seller for them. Every now & then I get mine out to reminisce. Then I wonder why I don’t wear it more.

Samsara by Guerlain 1989

Samsara by Jean-Paul Guerlain

Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, lemon, ylang-ylang, peach, green notes
Heart: Jasmine, iris, narcissus, violet, rose
Base: Sandalwood, vanilla, tonka bean, amber, musk

Samsara means “Wheel Of Life” in Sanskrit according to Jean-Paul Guerlain the perfumes main creator.

Creamy tropical flowers and fruit, a little sharp in the open. Samsara doesn’t take long to settle on my skin and become a slightly banana-isa yellow floral with BWF aspirations. Mildly flower feral, it wears in parfum close and seductive. When I add the EdT it becomes a larger, more exhibitionist fragrance, a glamorous silk brocade of a scent.

Once the initial extravaganza calms I’m left with a nebulous bouquet backed by a sweet, dry-ish vanilla and creamy resinous sandalwood till fade. Recently I read that even back in 1989 Samsara was mainly faux sandalwood, doesn’t matter to me. Lastly I smell sandalwood and musks, I think the musk might be the real deal but TBH I’ll probably never know

Some people talk about how outrageous and overbearing Samsara is. That’s definitely not how I experience it. Maybe because of my Mum reference Samsara is a warm, elegant, pre-oud oriental that is both exotic and incredibly comforting. Back in the 1980s Samsara was armchair travel to faraway places, a hint of the multifarious peoples of Asia and the Middle East. Even then I knew world travel was what I wanted to do as a life hobby.

Further reading: Now Smell This and Muse In Wooden Shoes
Most Guerlain counters have Samsara
Surrender To Chance has vintage parfum samples from $20/0.25ml

Have you tried Samsara?
I hope you enjoyed wandering among my fragrant thoughts. Below is an original Samsarta ad, hopefully see you tomorrow,
Portia xx

Taif Roses by Montale 2007

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 14 Comments

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Portia

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Hi there Rose Lovers,

I have had a 5ml decant here for ages of Taif Roses. It’s about half empty now and I worried that it would never get a showing on the blog. So many people deride Montale as a house for their unlimited releases of virtually the same faux oud scents again and again. It’s a fair criticism but if you ever take the time to look into a few of their non-oud releases you may be pleasantly surprised. Some of them are really lovely, and I like that Montale has kept their product affordable in this age of aspirational pricing.

I think it was someone on FaceBook’s Aussie Fragrance Network that reminded me recently of Taif Roses. Thanks to that person I grabbed it out again today.

Taif Roses by Montale 2007

Taif Roses Montale FragranticaFragrantica

While looking for a note list everywhere I looked gave only rose. The Taif rose is special, while looking for information I found a link on BaseNotes that took me to this.

From Armco: No one is certain how the 30-petal damask rose first came to Taif. The impulse for its cultivation, however, assuredly lay in Taif’s proximity to Makkah (Ed: Mecca). That the rose of Taif is virtually identical to the famous Bulgarian “kazanlik” strain suggeststhat Taif’s roses may have been transplanted from the Balkans by the Ottoman Turks, who occupied that area from the mid-14th century and the Hijaz from the 16th century. However, the kazanlik rose—its Turkish name means “suitable for the [distiller’s] kettle”—has its own roots in the Persian rose plantations around Shiraz and Kashan, which in turn supplied fields in Syria. A legend among the growers of al-Hada says that the flower originally came from India.

Taif Roses is a woody, green leaves and snap of fresh cut stems rose. Floral petals of rose, intoxicatingly intense are surrounded by the bushes themselves and the dry, cool air of the early morning picking in the spring sunlight. often compared in my reading to Sa Majesty la Rose by Serge Lutens but without the honey to sweeten it, and far less of the spicy clove.

Taif Roses Montale

Montale

Longevity is exceptional, in the Montale way and sillage is very good too. A little goes a long way but I like to really douse myself and sit among the rosey fog.

Further reading: Scent for Thought and BOTO
Feeling Sexy Australia has $145/100ml

How do you like your roses? Green, jammy, spicy or otherwise?
Portia xx

La Via del Profumo GIVEAWAY WINNER

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 1 Comment

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Portia

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Hey there APJ,

Thanks to AbdesSalaam for his generosity and you guys for participating.
Let’s see who won,
Portia xxx

La Via del Profumo GIVEAWAY WINNER

Sea Wood La Via del Profumo legno_naveLa Via del Profumo

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Vetiver, patchouli, olibanum, sea notes, cinnamon, cloves, ginger, spicy notes

La Via del Profumo has samples from €18/5.5ml

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week there will be 1 winner who will receive:
1 x sample Gringo by La Via del Profumo
1 x sample Cuoio del Dolci by La Via del Profumo
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Closed Wednesday 7th June 2017 10pm Australian EdsT
Winner was chosen by random.org

Ingrid

The winners will have till Wednesday 14th June 2017 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit

Bois d’Argent by Annick Menardo for DIOR La Collection Privée 2004

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 20 Comments

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Sandra

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HI there APJ,

Iris season has begun, the yellow water irises have bloomed and now I am waiting to see some bearded irises. I find the iris to be one of the most stunning flowers allowing itself to be photographed and painted over and over without getting bored. The colours are all over the spectrum and I find it difficult to choose a favourite. However, I love the shape of the bearded iris the most.

Now when it comes to perfumery, I always found the iris note to be cold and aloof, almost unbearably so. I tried and tried through the years to come to terms with this much loved note. I have even bought a bottle here or there of an iris centric perfume in hopes of finally getting it – only to be disappointed and then pass it along.

I do not know if it is age or reason that has brought my nose around, but at the moment I cannot seem to get enough of iris. I do believe that I am finally understanding that I like the warmer treatment of iris and tend to shy away from the cold renderings.

Bois d’Argent by DIOR La Collection Privée 2014

Bois d’Argent by Annick Menardo

Bois d'Argent Christian Dior FragranticaFragrantica

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Yemenite frankincense
Heart: Somalian myrrh, Indonesian patchouli, Florentine iris absolute
Base: Amber, Woody notes, Honey, Leather, White musk

Last summer I picked up Christian Dior Bois d’Argent, created by Annick Menardo in 2004, which is part of the La Collection Privée. I sprayed it on in Nice and was taken aback of well this perfume worked in the summer heat. It was never stifling, nor suffocating. I packed it up as soon as we found out we were moving and did not spray it again until January of this year. It was winter and a wet cold set into my bones. The only way to stay warm was through olfactory stimulation. Bois d’Argent is warm and cuddly in the cold. The vanilla is played up with the iris and myrrh making it a slightly sweet, but not too sweet treat.

It has been in heavy rotation ever since January and now that Rotterdam is finally warming up I can say that I am enjoying Bois d’Argent even more. The perfume starts off with a blast of incense and a tinge of myrrh. The incense is warm and not overly done which can be a bit much. I find that myrrh rounds certain perfumes beautifully. The iris is smooth and warm and only slightly powdery. The powder aspect is less detectable now in the warmer weather. Instead of powder I am getting a lovely dry down of woods, incense and iris. Bois d’Argent is elegant and refined but not so much so that I cannot wear it on a daily basis. It keeps me centered and calm and ready to face the day with a smile and positive energy.

To be honest with you I can forget about the notes. This is smooth sailing and I do not need to think about what I am wearing. Rarely do I get compliments when I wear perfume. However, I do when I wear Bois d’Argent.

Further reading: What Men Should Smell Like and Olfactoria’s Travels
DIOR stores and some larger department store countermand airports carry the DIOR La Collection Privée line
Surrender To Chance has samples from $3.25/ml

Have you tried Dior Bois d’Argent? Now that I am open to and looking for some iris scents to try, can you recommend some to me? I would love to hear what you have to say about iris and how you like it or do not like it.
Sandra x

(Ed: All the Iris photos by Sandra. Beautiful.)