L’Artisan Explosions d’Emotions 2013: Review

November 29, 2013 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 65 Comments

Hello Fume Heads,

I know you are all crazy to try the new L’Artisan Parfumeur set of fragrances. well my mate Nick from Libertine Parfumerie has sent me a set of all three, in tester form. Thanks Libertine Parfumerie, you guys ROCK!!! So what I thought we would do today is look at the 3 fragrances. Then do a VERY special giveaway. Hopefully you will be thrilled. It’s our way of saying Thank You for being the most tremendous community of fragrance and scent lovers in the universe, and thank you for being a part of our dream.

L’Artisan Explosions d’Emotions by Bertrand Duchaufour 2013

Firstly, let’s talk about these bottles. They are fun and hefty, the octagonal mirroring the old bottles but adding a side, or a facet? I love the gold-tone label in the niche on one side, it looks slick and very law firm-ish or as if your designer has picked your fragrance. They will look excellent on your bureau, in your wardrobe or wherever you keep your fragrances. The embossed gold-tone cap reflects the Seville a l’Aube cap and I like it too. My only though is to wonder how people with small hands cope with it, it is cumbersome and heavy. My big hands do fine but I do wonder….

Amour Nocturne L`Artisan Parfumeur

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Cedar, hot milk, caramel, gunpowder, orchid

Well it certainly is an unusual, inventive and funky opening. Sweet, dry and smoky all at once. Amour Nocturne is hardcore elegant, you know those uber stylish people who always radiate self confidence, chic and easy going, sometimes slightly sideways style? They never look like a fashion plate but manage to seem coolly confident in their choices and often one or more pieces are recycled or a gift from Granny that none of us could even DREAM of wearing, yet for them it all looks charming and effortless. This is what those ladies and gentlemen smell like. Homely and sexy at the same time, the gunpowder adds a real zing that takes this nearly gourmand fragrance out of the ordinary and into magic. You really can smell sweet, warm, caramel milk woods and gunpowder, or a metallic dream of gunpowder. The orchid is amped up well beyond the ability of most orchids to smell but in this very noticeable amount it reminds me a little of the early Olympic Orchids offerings like Little Stars, reminds not mimics.

To be honest I thought this was going to be shit. It’s most definitely not, I love it

Deliria L`Artisan Parfumeur

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Metal, rum, toffee, apple, candy floss

Sheer and very much like Aeroplane Jelly when you pour the boiling water onto the crystals. It has a distinctively unusual, super sweet to the point of nausea, hot sugar and food colouring smell. Both disgusting and gorgeous but with wonderful memories of times spent creating jelly masterpieces. One year we did Rainbow Jelly, which is just the 6 jelly colours in the rainbow made solid then add the next layer. Time consuming but Oh So Worth It, 2cm thick slices (with a hot knife) on a white plate with some ice cream is a pretty special looking piece of art. The sheerness fades quite quickly to a sweet haze on my skin, it is still all the opening madness but subtlety has arrived, and a very slight hint of skank. MMMMM, it gets interesting. As Deliria dries down I get a yummy biscuit effect.

This is a fine piece of perfumery but not really my style, though I could grow to like it maybe. I can imagine the younger crowd, sweet scent lovers or new to the wormhole will like this one the best. If you are thinking of gifting and the recipient is currently wearing mainstream stuff then this is a logical progression. 1000 times better than most mainstream and not infinitely more expensive.

Skin on Skin L`Artisan Parfumeur

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Suede, saffron, whisky, lavender, rose, iris, musks, skin effects

Skin on Skin is the one people seem to have noticed and be raving about. It is the most like a L’Artisan of the three, that saffron, suede, iris combination is flawless here. Beautifully blended, soft, pretty and yet still wearable by a guy.The inside of a newish handbag, maybe a brand new pair of sandals after their first wear. There is sweet human hiding beneath the flowers and suede, I am not sure that I get the booze, I need to spend some more time with Skin on Skin on my skin.

This one feels modern in the traditional underplayed L’Artisan way. I know that sentence reads funny but the L’Artisan crew are groundbreakers: first fig frag, Dzing!, Velour de Roses, Tea for two and many others were numero uno of their type. So copied now that the scents seem a trifle generic but if you really spray a lot on and live the ride then you’ll see that in most cases they have been copied but not exceeded. Again they offer a new way to do things but it’s a muted, comfortable new way. I can imagine people wearing Skin on Skin as their go-to daily fragrance and being very happy with it in all seasons.

Photo Stolen kbaird

L’Artisan Explosions d’Emotions GIVEAWAY

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have TWO main winners and each will receive:

1 x 100ml TESTER bottle with lid of a L’Artisan Parfumeur Explosions d’Emotions fragrance (with about 15ml missing) and no you don’t get to choose
P&H Anywhere in the world

There will also be THREE other winners and each will receive:

1 x decanted sample of all three L’Artisan Parfumeur Explosions d’Emotions fragrances
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOW DO YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

You must tell me how you follow APJ and go to Libertine Perfumes<<<JUMP and find me a perfume and its manufacturer. NO DOUBLE UPS!!

Extra Chance?
Tweet: @OzPerfumeJunkie @LArtisan ~~Explosions d’Emotions~~ GIVEAWAY http://wp.me/p3PURw-2fb #Perfume #Giveaway

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Sunday 1st December 2013 10pm Australian EST and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winners will be chosen by putting names on same sized papers, folded similarly, put on a tray and Jin will pick a winner.
The winners will have till Wednesday 4th December 2013 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

Special THANKS to LibertinePerfumerie for these amazing giveaways. Please visit their site because they are so generous and helpful. If you wonder why they are more expensive than the discounters or OS retailers it’s because they are the only licensed company selling their fragrances in Australia; where you know you are buying new, fresh and genuine product. The cost of importing, and buying the right to import, alcohol based fragrances (and having the right to send alcohol based fragrances throughout Australia, which are illegal to send in the Australia Post air system) is expensive and they must cover their costs to bring you these luxury goods.

Voiles d’Extraits by Vero Kern 2013

November 27, 2013 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 9 Comments

Post by Val the Cookie Queen

Hey APJ

1973. The teacher asked us to research a famous person and present a project in class. I chose Andy Warhol. My mother bought me a book to assist me with the work. It was minus about 30 pages. She had removed them, finding them way to controversial for me. That encouraged me to dig deeper. Edie, Nico, The Factory, Interview, The Velvet Underground.

On October 27th 2013 Lou Reed died. I spent the following days pondering how much his music, both with The Velvets and solo, had helped to shape a part of who I am. Not only with music and fashion and art, but with perfume too. My journey started with patchouli and Tabu. (I skipped Charlie – haha!)

Voile d’Extrait Photo by Herb Ritts given to APJ by Vero Kern

Voiles d’Extraits by Vero Kern 2013

Vero, Voiles and The Velvets.

Vero Kern´s perfumes do to me what the Velvets did and still do. They pierce my very soul. The Silver Fox said, when writing about .vero.profumo. “Once worn they own and haunt.” I can´t keep away. I wear other perfumes, I am a perfume junkie, but I come back to Vero´s creations every time.

Stylish, dark, hip, borderline scents. I never have been mainstream.

Voile d’Extrait Photo by Herb Ritts given to APJ by Vero Kern

The VOILES are a variation on a theme but still the Kiki, Onda, Rubj and Mito that we know. These perfumes are created in a different concentration to the pure extraits, but are just as deep and rich. They satisfy the need to spray, whereas the extraits are to be dabbed.

RUBJ Voile Featuring orange blossom, Egyptian jasmine, musk. Heavenly.
KIKI Voile Including lavender, caramel, musk. A have to try for those who dislike lavender. It is velvety and addictive.
MITO Voile Magnolia, cypress, and a stunning tuberose (which does not feature in the EdP), lemony, bitter, it is perfection.
ONDA Voile Dark. Intimate. Honey, vetiver, nutmeg, pepper, ginger. Venus in Furs.

Voile d’Extrait Photo by Herb Ritts given to APJ by Vero Kern

Try them if you get the chance. Take a walk on the wild side.

CQ xxx

The Voiles are available at Jovoy Paris, Marie Antoinette Paris, Bloom London and Campomarzio70 Rome. Which does´t help toomuch outside of Europe but where there´s a will there´s a way!! Lisa from Campomarzio70, .vero.profumo´s distributor told me that they will soon be in other exclusive shops. I will keep you posted.

Vero Kern sent me samples of the four Voiles. Vielen Dank.

November Sample Challenge Part 2

November 26, 2013 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 6 Comments

Post by Gabriella

Hello fumie friends!

Well, I am continuing the sample challenge set up by a friend on the Aussie Fragrance Network group on Facebook with some unexpected results. Read on to find out what happened.

November Sample Challenge Part 2

Photo Stolen BDOutdoors

Sunday, November 10: One terrific by-product of the challenge is that it has made me organize my very disorganized sample lot. Well, the challenge and the fact that Mr M has very kindly bought me a fishing tackle box for said purpose. I categorized things alphabetically and am finding things that I had completely forgotten about. Feel very excited about continuing now and celebrate with a dab of Serge Lutens Bois de Violette. It’s beautiful, but there is just something in the Serge Bois series that just doesn’t agree with my skin chemistry.

In the evening, I fall in love with Amouage Interlude Woman. How on earth did I ignore this for so long? I adore the coffee, kiwi fruit and green goodness that seems to sparkle on my skin. I must get some more of this, so head off and order a decant of this, Amouage Fate Woman, Serge Lutens Santal de Mysore (another big bottle want) and thrown in some Castlebajac for good measure after trawling the site for a while. I’m excited about Castlebajac. It’s a clean almondy scent that I wore years and years ago in London and the thought of it reminds me of a great work Christmas party.

Monday, November 11: I cheat. I wear Lys Mediterranee. Not a sample. Difficult day at work and I needed something I knew and loved to comfort me.

Wednesday, November 13: Chanel Beige. Wearing this today and the sample of 31 Rue Cambon the other week has taught me something: I love Chanel top notes but not the dry down. Chanel Beige starts so luscious with frangipani and the sunshiny-ness of hawthorn, it’s gorgeous. But I want it to stay this way, and of course, last a little longer like all the Exclusifs, sans Coromandel.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Friday, November 15: Oh hello lovely! I’ve had a sample of Dior New Look 1947 for ages and thankfully rediscovered it, due to new not-rummaging-around-in-drawers-for-half-an-hour-superorganized sample storage. This just FEELS like ME and I can’t get enough. It makes me pleased cos I’ve been quite cross at the House of Dior for mucking round with my beloved Diorissimo and Diorella. This just might make up for it.

Monday November 18: Bad, bad M. Have fallen totally off the wagon over the past few days due to sampling ennui. Maybe, just maybe, it is because I have been so busy and stressed at work that I haven’t had the headspace to enjoy my samples. I always need to be calm, relaxed and not half asleep or in need of valium and vodka to sample properly. In fact, I have been thinking that, when it comes to perfume, I need much less, not more. Decide to sell some more partial bottles.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Wednesday, November 20: Ok, so somebody must have hacked into my computer Monday or I was possessed by my alter ego as that stuff was just craaazy talk. But today, I had another issue: wanting, pining after a sample THAT I DID NOT HAVE. ARGH!!!! The-sample-that-I-must-have-right-now is Keiko Mecheri’s Isles Lointaines. I blame the boss’ PA. She asked for help with planning destinations for her honeymoon and asked if I’d been to the Amalfi coast and Positano in particular. Mr M and I went on one of our first romantic trips to Paris and Positano and Isles Lointaines was one of the samples I wore. I need to revisit those memories. NOW.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Saturday, November 23: Byredo Pulp. This is another one that’s just been sitting right there for ages, completely ignored, but yet, so readily available. I thought Dionne’s APJ review was terrific, but never got round to smelling this. It’s a luscious, full bodied citrus that just can’t help but make you smile. And even though it’s pouring with rain and has been wet for eons, I’m happy and warm with this on.

Samples are available from:
Surrender To Chance
Posh Peasant

So, how did you think I went with the second leg APJ peeps? Have I mentioned any favourites?

Love,
M

Reb’l Fleur by Caroline Sabas and Marypierre Julien of Givaudan for Rihanna 2011

November 25, 2013 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 6 Comments

Don’t forget to enter our Olympic Orchids GIVEAWAY!!<<<JUMP

Post by Katrina

My fascination with celebrity perfumes is no secret. I love the marketing and hype and the fact that they are so cheap to buy. One of the things that interests me is how well a perfume fits with the celebrity’s own brand. Sometimes they line up and sometimes the perfume does not match my expectations for a particular celebrity. The Katy Perry perfumes in their fabulous bottles match Katy Perry’s young, fun image. Madonna’s Truth or Dare fragrances smell expensive and are in line with her more mature age and image.

There have also been a few times where I’ve had low expectations of a perfume based on my perception of a celebrity’s ‘trashy’ image. See my previous APJ review of the original Kim Kardashian perfume, which does not smell at all trashy.

Today I am reviewing another perfume that was a pleasant surprise when I was expecting fruitchouli, the first from pop star Rihanna. Rihanna has since released another four fragrances Rebelle, Nude, 777 Nude by Rihanna, Diamonds and Rogue.

Reb’l Fleur by Caroline Sabas and Marypierre Julien of Givaudan for Rihanna 2011

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Berries, plum, peach
Heart: Hibiscus, violet, tuberose, coconut water
Base: Vanilla, patchouli, amber and musk.

A perfume from Rihanna with fragrance notes reminiscent of a tropical cocktail and presented in an inverted stiletto heel. I did not have high expectations!

Thankfully Reb’l Fleur does not smell how I expected. I anticipated Pina Colada, but there is not much emphasis on the fruit and coconut and more on the florals and patchouli. The main fruit note I smell is a deep rich plum with a small dose of sweet peach. I don’t smell berries. The fruit notes are combined with strong floral notes and a hint of creamy coconut. The florals are heavy with a nice blend of tuberose and violet. There is just the right amount of tuberose for my taste as I only like it in small doses. The patchouli adds some spice and the amber is earthy and warm.

Reb’l Fleur is a warm, sensual perfume and the lasting power is very good. Reb’l Fleur is a great fragrance for evening wear and one of the sexiest in my collection

Photo Stolen Wikipedia

Further reading: Bois de Jasmin Although not a raving review by Victoria, she does makes comparisons to Chanel Coco Mademoiselle and Narciso Rodriguez for Her. At a fraction of the cost this makes Reb’l Fleur a winner!
FragranceNet has Rihanna Reb’l Fleur $27/100ml before Coupon
My Perfume Samples starts at $2/ml

For more celebrity perfume news and reviews, check out my website: Celebrity Perfumes

Katrina xx

Olympic Orchids 2013 Gift Set

November 25, 2013 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 75 Comments

Post by Azar

Olympic Orchids 2013

How to Give a Gift Set

Giving chocolate, red roses or wreaths of evergreen boughs are popular ways to celebrate the holiday season. This year Olympic Orchids perfumer Ellen Covey has put together her 2013 Holiday Sets featuring fragrances that are reminiscent of these traditional gifts.

Photo Stolen Olympic Orchids

The Standard Olympic Orchids Gift Set includes three of her most popular 5 ml parfum sprays: California Chocolate, Ballets Rouge and Olympic Rainforest. The Deluxe Set comes with these fragrances as well as 1 oz. of Amber-Labdanum All Purpose Oil, a bar of hand made Patchouli Lovers Soap and a $25 coupon good toward the purchase of any 30ml parfum in the new packaging. The Standard Set is priced at $35 (easily a $45 value) and the Deluxe Gift Box at $45 (in my estimation worth at least $100).

Photo Stolen Olympic Orchids

I’m always bargain hunting, especially during the holidays. The Standard Set would make a wonderful surprise for a special individual or couple but I have other plans for the deluxe version. Please don’t think me “cheap”, but I could solve several gifting dilemmas, stuff a few stockings or be ready for any unexpected guests by simply breaking the larger set up into individual gifts. Here is my plan for Olympic Orchids‘s Deluxe Gift Set:

Olympic Rainforest might be for the brother who sails the San Juan Islands and works near the Olympic Rainforest.

California Chocolate would be much appreciated by an adult student, a total chocoholic.

Ballets Rouge could make a lovely gift for the sister with the rose garden.

Patchouli Lovers Soap is a “can’t miss” for my old (my age) activist, hippie friend.

Amber-Labdanum All Purpose Oil is perfect for the son who has totally fallen for the scent of this product.

And the $25 coupon? Well, maybe I’ll just give that one to myself! (I bet you saw that one coming.)

Photo Stolen kbaird

Olympic Orchids GIVEAWAY

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week there will be 1 winner who will receive:

1 x 1ml sample of Olympic Orchids Tropic of Capricorn
1 x 1ml sample of Olympic Orchids Seattle Chocolate
1 x 1 mystery sample or decant
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOW DO YOU WIN?

To be eligible for the draw just mention how you follow APJ. Here are a couple of questions: Do you ever split gift boxes? Have you tried Olympic Orchids Patchouli Lovers Soap or the Amber-Labdanum All Purpose Oil? Comment on either of these questions and be eligible to win my (Azar’s) last give-away for 2013.

Extra Chances?
Tweet: @OzPerfumeJunkie Olympic Orchids GIVEAWAY http://wp.me/p3PURw-2ex #Giveaway #Perfume @EllenCovey1

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Thursday 28th November 2013 10pm Australian EDST and winners will be announced in a separate post
Winners will be chosen by random.org
The winners will have till Sunday 1st December 2013 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

Happy Holidays!
Azar xx

Louis Vuitton: L’Invitation Au Voyage: Paris & Venice: Mini Movies + Making Of

November 22, 2013 / australianperfumejunkiescom

Hiya Perfumista Peeps,

Louis Vuitton, as so often is the case, have made something beautiful and luxurious. These ads are clearly the start of a story to be continued throughout the world. I wonder where we will be taken next in the magical Louis Vuitton Balloon? I hope this keeps you interested while we wait for the Louis Vuitton fragrance, I do hope it’s soon……..
Portia xx

Photo Stolen replicaguide

L’Invitation Au Voyage (Paris)

Louis Vuitton featuring Arizona Muse

L’Invitation au Voyage (Venice)- Making Of

Louis Vuitton featuring David Bowie and Arizona Muse

L’Invitation au Voyage (Venice) – Director’s Cut

Louis Vuitton featuring David Bowie and Arizona Muse

Fils de Dieu du riz et des agrumes by Ralf Schwieger for Etat Libre D’Orange 2012

November 21, 2013 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 5 Comments

Post by Chairman Meow

I like me a good gourmand, and from my many readings about this scent, this was meant to be a good gourmand, so I went about sniffing Fils de Dieu with high hopes. Its billing as the New Skool Shalimar did nothing to lower expectations.

Fils de Dieu du riz et des agrumes

by Ralf Schwieger for Etat Libre D’Orange 2012

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica lists the following accords:
Top: Ginger, coriander, lime, shiso
Heart: Coconut, cardamom, jasmine, cinnamon, rose
Base: Tonka bean, vetiver, musk, amber, leather, castoreum

And indeed the first nanosecond of its performance, with that recognisable dusty vanillic citrus intro, is familiar. But thenceforth Shalimar and Fils de Dieu (FdD) set out on quite different trajectories. Shalimar, animalic and belching plumes of smoky opoponax, flounces off in one direction, loudly crying “dahling!” to all and sundry. FdD, on the other hand, has eased into a pair of Birkenstocks and has gone backpacking around Thailand, and before I could wheeze “for shaaaaaaame”, I died in ecstasy and face planted into a bowl of steaming coconut rice.

Photo Stolen Wikipedia

From first huff to its expiration a lamentably short period later, FdD is an ode to the fluffy cooked grain. Its moniker is quite apt (Son of God, Rice and Citrus). The notes read like an ingredient list for a laksa, yet it remarkably it smells quite restrained, spartan almost, with the muted, powdery qualities of rice being showcased by the other elements. Bemusingly, rice itself not listed above, illustrating yet again what a load of twaddle this notes business is, and how we should all just make of things What We Will. Rather than being overtly tart or astringent, the lime lends a certain buoyancy, with much the same role as lemongrass or kaffir lime leaf in a dish, and with a little imagination I can just detect the soapy zing of coriander leaf/cilantro right at those first few seconds. Tonka is also evident, tinting everything with a little of its caramel hue.

Photo Stolen Alpha Flickr

But all this sounds too gourmand, too literal a take on cooking, which is it most assuredly not. It’s as if Heston Blumenthal has come along with his lab gear, extracted the qi or life force out of south east Asian cuisine and infused the distillate into a perfume for the global citizen. Just to remind you that you are perfumed, and have not just finished a double shift in the kitchen of your local Thai eatery, there is a soupcon of musk and castoreum, endowing the composition with that unctuous, slightly vomitous twang. With time, FdD remains rice-y, but becomes more rosy, and is the sweeter for it.

Further reading: Perfume Shrine and Candy Perfume Boy
Etat Libre d’Orange has €69/50ml with worldwide delivery
LuckyScent has $80/50ml with worldwide delivery
Surrender To Chance starts at $4.75/ml

It is a short ride (on me at least), requiring a top-up spritz or three ere I’d finished writing a paragraph of this review. Ordinarily, I would find this pretty irksome, but in this case I’m content to reapply because it is so terrifically evocative: sweat, gods, ruby-skinned tourists, anarchic markets, decay. It’s witty yet eminently accessible. Consider me a fan.

C M x

Guerlain, Guerlain, Guerlain Samples

November 20, 2013 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 13 Comments

Post by Eliza D

I’ve been in a bit of a rut fragrance-wise for a few months, then I got to go to The Perfume House in Portland and I was instantly lifted out of my snit. Though the two samples I brought home were not right for me, there was a fragrance on the sleeve of my sweater that had to be a Guerlain, since I spent a lot of time in that corner of the store, sniffing fragrance and making weird murmery noises that scared the other shoppers.

Guerlain, Guerlain, Guerlain Samples

So, I went to the Posh Peasant, and found out that I could get 5 x 1.5 ml spray samples of any Guerlain fragrance they carry for $26 US+shipping. and ordered Shalimar PI, L’Heure Bleue, Champs Elysee, Vol de Nuit and Chamade. They arrived in four days!

Vol de Nuit

hoto Stolen Fragrantica

First on was Vol de Nuit. Oh my gosh, how wondrous! The bergamot and light top notes gave way very quickly to that incredible powdery dry down anchored with vanilla and moss that is so familiar to me from the other two Guerlains that I have owned or tried: Samsara and Mitsouko (the latter of which instantly transports me to my mother’s bedroom in the 60s…she did not wear perfume, but her friends did, and when we had parties the impromptu coat room was a glorious treasure trove), but I was disappointed with its longevity.

Chamade

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Next day was Chamade. Oh my word! Lovely cripsness followed by flowers and then sandalwood. Could this be my new forever fragrance? Could I wear this to work and not feel as if I was pushing the limit of acceptance? Was it better suited for home, when I was alone with my loved one? What an amazing feat, and of course created in the era I consider to be my formative time.

Champs Elysees

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Monday was Champs Elysees, and of all the five, this was the most disappointing. No bones, just fluff, and too sweet. Yes roses, but grocery store roses, not boutique roses…I almost washed it off.

Shalimar Parfum Initial

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Then I tried Shalimar Parfum Initial. This was the one I almost did not order. I had read so much about how it was JUST a flanker, and what was Thierry Wasser thinking to mess with an old classic and how it was made for soccer moms and teenagers. I sprayed with trepidation. First came the citrusy top notes calling out while the rest of the perfume gathered in the wings. Then jasmine and iris and some rose, but a different rose. Yes, sweet, but not bubble gum headache sweet…more precious. Lovely, soft, modern, patchouli and vanilla. Incredible. I loved this from first sniff. Great sillage! Could it be the one?

L’Heure Bleue

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

But I still had one more to go: L’Heure Bleue. I chose this because it is a classic, and because of the line in the Bond Movie about it…

I sprayed it on after arriving home from work. Immediately I knew this was not the same as the others, but still somehow similar. Licorice topnotes warm and balmy from the start, it deepened as I wore it with neroli and tuberose taking main stage. I was swept away to a place where the air is thick with fragrance all the day long, this is an after the hot tub fragrance, a bundle up in fur in winter and dream of longer days fragrance.

I am so grateful to Guerlain for continuing the art of perfumery through the years. Perfumery is divine. I am blessed. And I am wearing Shalimar PI.

Eliza D

Armani Prive Figuier Eden by Mane for Giorgio Armani 2012

November 19, 2013 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 6 Comments

Post by Ainslie Walker

I have a soft spot for fig. I always try any perfume, hand cream, candle, bath product etc containing fig… But my truest love is standing under or near a fig tree and breathing in it’s complete smell. The whole tree. The woody, slightly milky, slightly coconut, a little sweet and a little sharp and vast green smell gives me a sense of stillness.

The first fig fragrance I wore was Diptych Philosokos and I wore it for at least 10 years almost religiously. I was in London during that whole time and the perfume always took me straight back to Australia when I sprtitzed it, to memories of my favorite Moreton Bay fig tree in Sydney that I used to climb and sniff in the early 90s. The fragrance encompasses the whole tree and is a very green and robust scent with beautiful coconutty undertones.

Photo Stolen DeviantArt

In my travels I’ve smelt many a fig tree. In Sardinia growing in a cave, in London parks, on Greek Islands, in Spain, Perth, Brisbane, Byron Bay, in Croatia, Bulgaria, Turkey, Corfu, Italy…the list goes on. Always bringing my first thought back to that tree in Sydney.

I have also smelt many a fig based perfume; L’Artisan Parfumeur Premier and Intense Figeur, Hermes, Aqua Di Parma Fico di Amalfi, Marc Jacobs, Theirry Mugler’s Womanity and of course Figeur Eden.

Armani Prive Figuier Eden by Mane for Giorgio Armani 2012

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Mandarin, bergamot, red pepper
Heart: Tea, grass, green fig
Base: Moroccan iris, amber

And then, 2 weeks ago a gorgeous and generous friend gave me her bottle of Armani Prive Figeur Eden. Sadly, rejected by her husband, this fragrance was neglected on her shelf. I’d tried this fragrance a number of times over the years and found it soft with no real impact…perhaps as I usually smelt it after a full sniff through a beauty hall such as Selfridges or Myers, or perhaps as I’d never wanted a fig fragrance to bring more than just pure fig? But this time I was on a solo 16 hour drive through country NSW and Victoria and it was the only fragrance I had access too!! Just me, the road and a bottle of Figuer Eden….

Photo Stolen Serge Melki Flickr

After dousing myself and starting the drive I started to get excited…was I smelling a fresher, zestier less heady fig…perhaps even a prettier more feminine fig? My first thought was to drive back, tell my friend to ditch her hubby and take the bottle back…my second thought was to step on the accelerator and enjoy every spritz of this new found love.

The prettiness comes slightly powdery and could be a soft iris note. It is not dense and heady as expected, but it is almost airy like a cool breeze carrying the scent. I feel a light fragrant citrus note like a light green tea, perhaps bergamot. It’s a harmony of smells, rather than my robust, phylosikos, which is straight up fig tree. It’s not sweet, plenty of soft blonde woods..sandal rather than cedar, of philosokos, perhaps, and a dry olive tree scent help keep the sweetness to a minimum? There is something spicey but not black or green pepper that I a familiar with….*enter google*…RED PEPPER! I am impressed. Fig leaves are taken down a notch revealing more of a grass note, as if one is lying under the tree on the lawn. The coconut in the breeze reminiscent of someone upwind drinking a pina colada…or similar.

Photo Stolen Shamefullyso Flickr

Further reading: The Non Blonde and Perfume Diary
Myer has $140/100ml (Australia only)
House Of Fraser has £82/100ml (UK only)
Bergdorf Goodman has $160/100ml (USA & Canada only)
Surrender To Chance starts at $5/ml

There is something rounded and natural about this one, which I love. The drydown is gorgeous! Gentle and yet unique. Perfect for layering, even with something else…any suggestions out there???

Collection Rouge No2 by Jean Claude Astier for M. Micallef 2013

November 18, 2013 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 8 Comments

Post by Michael

It’s with mixed feelings that I first picked up the sample vial of Micallef’s relatively new Rouge No2. I’ve been circling the liturgical Shanaan for a while. Should I get a full bottle? I just can’t decide. In any case it’s one of the finest frankincense fragrances I’ve tried, but then, how often am I really going to wear incense? Then there’s Vanille Aoud – so wonderfully intimate and snugly. It’s one of the few fragrances I’d love to be around someone else wearing. Then there’s been misses like Le Seducteur (too pungent) and the Les 4 Saisons that somehow felt unfinished. So with a little trepidation I gave Rouge No2 a sniff.

Collection Rouge No2 by Jean Claude Astier for M. Micallef 2013

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Citruses, black currant, nutmeg
Heart: Jasmine, violet, orchid
Base: Vanilla, labdanum, amber, castoreum

Rouge No2 opens fruity, resinous and animalic. The fruit is miscellaneous red candied fruit, the resins ultimately a vanillic amber and some animalic tendencies courtesy of some nutty castoreum. This fragrance is SWEET, literally. I can’t remember a fragrance I’ve tried that’s sweeter. As it dries down the vanillic amber becomes more prominent supported by the labdanum. A leatherish note comes through a bit later but ultimately this is a sweet fruity fragrance over a sweet vanillic amber base.

Photo Stolen Flickr (couldn’t find attribution)

For my taste this is just far too sweet but for those that like sweet fruity vanilla fragrances this is a must try, especially if you’re comfortable with animalic notes. Rouge No2 is miles ahead of the sweet fruity fragrances you’ll find in your typical department store.

Sillage is average on my skin and longevity is excellent.

Further reading: Perfume Shrine and Olfactoria’s Travels
LuckyScent has $245/100ml + Samples
First In Fragrance has €185/100ml+ Samples

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