Weekend in Normandy by Patricia di Nicolai for Nicolai Parfumeur Createur 2009

.

Post by Anne-Marie

.

A word about name changes and formula tweaks: according to Fragrantica, Nicolai released a fragrance called ‘Weekend in Deauville’ in 2009 as a limited release, but re-released it in 2011, apparently just named ‘Weekend’, with some additional fruity notes (apple?). Now it’s ‘Weekend in Normandy’.

Weekend in Normandy by Nicolai Parfumeur Createur 2009

Weekend in Normandy by Patricia di Nicolai

This was going to be a very brief review. ‘I went to Paris. I bought Nicolai’s Weekend in Normandy. I loved it in the shop. At home, I hated it. How could that have happened? Gloom. The end.’ What’s in this stuff?

 Week End Nicolai Parfumeur Createur FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Tarragon, mint, basil
Heart: Jasmine, ylang-ylang, galbanum, cardamom, lily-of-the-valley, apple, calone
Base: Musk, cedar, leather

Standing in the Nicolai boutique on the Rue des Archives, I clearly smelled the herbs in the top. I really did, all three of them. It was like being back home in my own garden in summer. Tarragon, mint and basil are my favourite herbs of all. Back home though, all I could smell was calone. Now I’m a calone-hater from way back when it first started stink out fragrance floors in the 1990s. I can smell it in teeny amounts, such as Nicolai’s Fig-Tea, which I reviewed in these pages a short while ago. I know it can work, especially in fruity fragrances such as Badgley Mischka, where it balances out the syrupy-sweet notes very nicely. In Fig-Tea I occasionally get a whiff of salt, which is an aspect of calone I do appreciate and which cuts through the denser, fruity accord in Fig-Tea. If anyone can use calone to its best advantage, surely Patricial di Nicolai can

Week End Nicolai Parfumeur Createur Beige abstract See-Ming Lee FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

But the calone is too much for me in Weekend in Normandy, matched as it is with so many other fresh, green notes. (If there’s any ylang-ylang in there – then my ol’ man’s a dustman.) So the question is– why was I not repulsed at first sniff? I don’t know, I just don’t know. Was I over excited to be there (it was fulfillment of a dream), over-eager to find a fragrance to love and treasure as a souvenir? Maybe. The only thing that gives hope is that when I reluctantly brought out my bottle tonight to take a dutiful spritz for this review, I again got those herbal notes – quite lovely.

It did not take long for the Calone Monster to come stomping in to trample all through the herb garden. But I’ve also noticed this time that worn at some distance from my nose – at the back of my neck for instance – the fragrance loses some of its aggressiveness, and becomes almost pleasant. It’s faint praise I know. Almost like saying ‘If someone at the end of my street wears it, I’m quite fine!’

Week End Nicolai Parfumeur Createur Beige girl StockSnap pixabayPhoto Stolen Pixabay

Further reading: Bois de Jasmin and Perfume Posse
Parfum1 has $45/30ml
Surrender To Chance have samples starting at $4/ml

Has anyone else had weird about-turn experiences like this with a fragrance? Please share.

And now I can’t stand it any longer. Bye for now, I’m off to the shower.

Trésor Midnight Rose by Anne Flipo for Lancôme 2011

.

Post by Portia

.

Hi there Fumies,

I have long been an unashamed adorer of Trésor, the original. It’s a scent I love to smell as it wafts by in the street or a mall. It smells only like itself and is a wonderful signature fragrance. So when they started bringing out modern flankers I was really sneery and snide without testing the product. Then a girlfriend smelled really fabulous one day and I asked her what that bewitching magic was? Wouldn’t you know it…..

Trésor Midnight Rose by Lancôme 2011

Trésor Midnight Rose by Anne Flipo

Tresor Midnight Rose Lancome FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Raspberry, rose absolute
Heart: Jasmine, peony, currant buds, pink pepper
Base: Virginian cedar, musk, vanilla

So up close Trésor Midnight Rose opens screechy, high octane oversweet fruity nightmare. Sorry folks, the opening needs to be endured rather than enjoyed. The raspberry and rose get right up into that urinous blackcurrant zing that can send me for headache tablets. The trick here is to spritz arms and tummy, ignore the first 20 seconds and suddenly that vile and obnoxious tirade becomes succulent fizzy fruits in a warm vanilla tinged bouquet that could (if you squint hard and screw up your nose) be based on a rose.

FW12 THE HEART TRUTH 2/8/2012 NEW YORKPhoto Stolen WikiMedia

Don’t get me wrong, there is NOTHING natural feeling about Trésor Midnight Rose, it is as unreal and space age a crystalline rose fragrance as ever you could imagine. As a bystander though it is beautiful. Sweet and ripe, exotic and splendid with a touch of vanilla over laundry style musks and I also get an unmentioned fizz of pineapple as it’s about to go over the edge into too ripe. I was completely gobsmacked when my girlfriend told me what she was wearing and since then I have gone through 2 x 5ml decants and am running through my third. My mind is starting to wonder if I need a bottle?

Who can wear this? Obviously aimed at the younger market it also smells fabulous on a thirty something and I could easily imagine it being a super gift for grandma too. It might give her a youthful spring in her step. I can vouch for it’s invigorating and fun enhancing properties and towards the end if you told me the original plan was to smell exactly like a sour cherry mousse I would 100% believe you. Longevity excellent, projection average to high. There is something really lovely about wearing Trésor Midnight Rose.

VLUU P1200  / Samsung P1200Photo Stolen Wikipedia

Further reading: Now Smell This
Beauty Encounter has $49/50ml
My Perfume Samples has $3/ml – $9/5ml

What did you Poo Poo till a friend or passing stranger made you do a 180 degree turn?
Portia xx

 

Iris Bleu & Iris Blanc by L’Occitane 2015 + NEW 10ml Decants

.

Post by Portia

.

Hey there APJ!

Here is an easy Iris, brought to you by my mate Lesley at L’Occitane Australia. If you have drama with iris as a not I think this could be your gateway drug. I like it a lot, there is considerable air in my bottle already so I thought I should share the love today

Iris Bleu & Iris Blanc by L’Occitane 2015

Iris Bleu & Iris Blanc L`Occitane en Provence FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Citruses, black currant
Heart: Iris pallida, Florentine iris, ylang-ylang, peach, fig
Base: White musk, cedar

Sparkly blackcurrent and citrus, sharp and sweet but not sickening. Fun but a gentle fun, not let’s go crazy. A really nice use of blackcurrent that only hints at its often challenging super screechy urinous roar and the citrus meets powderish iris with a cool pithy cloak that cools Iris Bleu & Iris Blanc considerably after the opening fanfare. The peach has a nice nod to Mitsouko and even the fig is noticeable: giving its softly milky fruit ripeness to the mix. Iris here giving both cardboard, root and airy fresh breadery (I invented a word!).

Maybe I’m having a good nose day or maybe previously I have merely been along for the ride but opening and heart notes all seem to be in order and accounted for. This is lovely and very enjoyable for a couple of hours. The white musks in the base are nothing new, a clean and simple old theme that is very nice but not nearly as interesting as the opening and heart. Totally wearable though and excellent for work or movies. Perfect gift for a person who likes fragrance but is not a hard core perfumista.

Further reading: Now Smell This and Sunday Girl
L’Occitane Australia has $84/75ml or $12/7.5ml and a whole range of corresponding product

In other news I just received these freaking amazing 10 ml Decant Bottles from China.

IMG_4777

IMG_4778

Thing is, I need some people to volunteer to try them for me before I buy hundreds, so I’m going to fill 3 with Iris Bleu & Iris Blanc and I will send them to you in little baggies. I would love it if you’d throw them in your bag, spritz, use, handle, show everyone and then give me feedback on how well they performed. You into it? See below. To re-use them pop some white vinegar in and squirt it through then squirt loads of fresh warm water. Leave them to dry and go again.

Portia xx

AllSteele giveaway 1Photo Stolen AllSteele

Iris Bleu & Iris Blanc 10ml Decant GIVEAWAY

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have 3 winners who will receive:
1 x 10ml decant Iris Bleu & Iris Blanc in the funky new atomisers
a couple of extras

P&H Anywhere in the world

HOW DO YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me (portia underscore turbo @ yahoo dot com dot au) so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Please tell us an iris fragrance that you love and why.

Extra Chance?
Tweet: Iris Bleu & Iris Blanc      

Entries Close Sunday 8th November 2015 10pm Australian EST and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winner will be chosen by random.org
The winner will have till Thursday 12th November 2015 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

 

 

Top 10 Movie Dance Scenes Of All Time

.

Post by Portia

.

Heya Crew,

I grew up dancing and it gives me a thrill still to watch it done well. Though I think they should have included America from West Side Story, as close to perfection as anything I’ve ever seen. It’s under the Top 10. Even now it makes my heart so full I get choked up.

West Side story Album

Please enjoy.
Portia xx

Top 10 Movie Dance Scenes Of All Time

 

West Side Story-America

Message in a Bottle by Mark Buxton for Mark Buxton 2015

.

Post by Gabriella

.

Hello perfumed peeps!

Living in Melbourne at this time of year, I cannot help but be reminded of the advent of summer in London. There, as soon as the grey dark skies of winter dissipate and the sun’s rays make a welcome return, the whole mood of the city lifts and people scramble to sunbake in parks at lunchtime.

Much like London, we’ve endured a hard cold winter here and spring has given us precious, joyous glimpses of the warmth that is to come. The whole psyche of the city and inhabitants changes at these times – one cannot help but feel elated to shed a winter coat and have a stroll after work amid a gentle warm breeze under a sky the colour of ice cream as the sun sets. There is a perfume that perfectly encapsulates these moments for me and that is ……

Message in a Bottle by Mark Buxton 2015

Message in a Bottle by Mark Buxton

Message in a Bottle Mark Buxton FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Ylang-ylang, magnolia, neroli, jasmine sambac, ambergris, sandalwood, labdanum, civet.

Message in a Bottle opens up with a dazzling burst of neroli, awakening one from winter’s hibernation with its efferversence and joyousness. The effect to me here is exactly like the hot towels you get on a long haul aeroplane flight. Waking groggy from a restless sleep, one cannot help but feel refreshed as the warmth and glowing citrus of the hot cotton on your face envelops your senses.

Message in a Bottle Mark Buxton Hot_towels WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

It’s about 10 minutes in when it would be permissible to dismiss Message in a Bottle as another neroli-based cologne. While the lightness of the composition certainly does feel cologne like in structure, the depth of the jasmine and the ylang ylang anchors and deepens the neroli, taking the composition humid white floral territory with an almost tropical feel. As the scent fades away, the ambergris comes to the fore with its salty woodedness, giving a nice segue from steamy floral into skin scent.

Message in a Bottle is a bit of a changeling. Much like Melbourne’s weather that can veer from tropical to freezing in an instant, the perfume itself metamorphoses depending on the weather conditions. In cooler weather, it is very much a selfish scent – your little private view of summer when it is still time to wrap a cardigan round your shoulders. When the temperatures are high, Message in a Bottle truly sings – warm humid skin is what really sets this perfume alight, bringing the tropical effect of the neroil, jasmine ylang ylang to the fore. I like wearing it both ways – for my secret snatch of summer promise as well as a full-on holiday scent when the mercury is climbing.

Message in a Bottle Mark Buxton summer Stevebidmead PixabayPhoto Stolen Pixabay

Further reading: Ainslie’s review here on APJ and Colognoisseur
Libertine Parfumerie has $199/100ml

What scents spell the promise of summer for you?
With much love until next time

M xxxx

50% off Michael Edwards’ Fragrances of the World 2015

.

Post by Ainslie Walker

.

Many of you who have been following Australian Perfume Junkies this past few years would have scrolled through one of our many articles featuring Michael Edwards. In fact we think he is AH-MAZING!

Michael Edwards WWD Magazine

Fragrances Of The World 2015

Michael Edwards J’Adore DIOR

APJ Michael Edwards Interview

50% off Michael Edwards’ Fragrances of the World 2015

Michael Edwards and his wonderfully generous team at Fragrances Of The World have extended for a limited time only a whopping FIFTY PERCENT OFF the Fragrances of the World 2015 (31st Edition)

book

Offer ends 20th November and stock is limited, so be quick!!

• Comprehensive, accurate and impartial
• Classifies more than 8,000 fragrances and 1,500 new releases
• Suggests new favorites
• Features an exclusive feminine and masculine matching system
• Makes fragrance shopping engaging and enjoyable
• Adds to your knowledge and authority
• Bilingual French/English
• Features the evolution of iconic fragrances in each Family

Order online now until November 20th to receive a 50% discount visit Fragrances Of The World and when prompted enter the promo code: FOTW15 to receive a 50% discount.

 

Vintage Parfums: GIVEAWAY WINNER

.

Post by Portia

.

Heya Crew,

Hotly contested tonight. I wish you all could be the winner. Really excited that one of our newest APJ Family members has won today.

Portia xx

Vintage Parfums: GIVEAWAY WINNER

CHANEL, Guerlain, DIOR, Rochas

Vintage Giveaway APJ Oct 15

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have 1 winner who will receive:
1 x sample of all six vintage fragrances in extrait/parfum
CHANEL No 5
CHANEL Coco
DIOR Diorissimo
Guerlain Mitsouko
Guerlain Shalimar
Rochas Madame Rochas

P&H Anywhere in the world

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Sunday 1st November 2015 10pm Australian EST and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winner will be chosen by random.org

Winner Is amberinblunderlandPhoto Stolen amberinblunderland

Latai

The winner will have till Thursday 5th November 2015 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

TinaG, Scott & Portia Sniff Fest Oct ’15

.

Post by Portia

.

So we are lucky in Sydney. There are a bunch of perfumistas, a few niche stores, loads of department stores, stand alone perfume shops and a smattering of boutiques + homeware stores with a few hard to get niche and indie lines. While not being London, Paris or New York we do have a splendid array. Should we desperately need to smell something the sample/decant stores have a great selection or we all seem to have a good number of decanting supplies so a lot of sharing goes on. There is always someone heading overseas who can grab us a FB of the things we can’t find here.

TinaG, Scott & Portia Sniff Fest

What also happens quite a lot is people going to other people’s houses and sniffing their collection. Recently TinaG and Scott were over celebrating TinaG’s birthday (and return to writing for APJ) with fresh baked scones, jam, lemon curd and whipped cream. The beverage was Guerlain’s Shalimar tea (thanks Catherine) and we decided to spend some time sniffing through my recently organised 3ml+ samples in their neat plastic boxes.

As you can see below the before & after. I have 2 chocka-block full ones and need one more.

Tactix 8 Compartment Storage Box BunningsPhoto Stolen Bunnings

Portia's Decant Case

Scott, Tina, portia 2015 Bday #2

TinaG, Scott & Portia Sniff Fest Oct '15 #1

TinaG, Scott & Portia Sniff Fest Oct '15 #2

TinaG, Scott & Portia Sniff Fest Oct '15 #3

TinaG, Scott & Portia Sniff Fest Oct '15 #4

TinaG, Scott & Portia Sniff Fest Oct '15 #5

So, what did we sniff? TinaG took all the touches home in greaseproof paper and made me a list.

Ana Fritz – Tzora
Annick Goutal – Amber Fetish
Caron – Narcissus Noir EDT
Caron – Narcissus Noir parfum Vint
Caron – Nuit de Noel EDC Vint
Caron – Tabac Blond Vint
Carven – Ma Griffe Vint
CB I Hate Perfumes – Black March
CB I Hate Perfumes – Narcissus
CB I Hate Perfumes – Tea Rose
Coty – Emeraurde (green)
Coty – Emeraude (blue) Vint
Coty – Muguet de Bois
Coty – L’Origan
Guerlain – Shalimar Parfum de Initial
Guerlain – Nuit d’Amore
Guerlain – Shalimar Mexico
Guerlain – L’Heure de Nuit
Hilda Soliane – Vagabond
Houbigant – Quelques Fleurs Vint
Huitieme Art – Myrrhad
Lorenso Villoresi – Incensi
The Different Company – Osmathus
Washington Tremlett – Clove Absoute
Worth – Courtesan

Scott, Tina, portia 2015 Bday #1

These were just the ones we found interesting enough to label & keep the touche, there were more. I don’t know how noses didn’t shut down in protest. I walked the dog afterwards and returning to the house was like walking into the Oxford St ground floor of Selfridge & Co. Quite potent.

Do you ever get together with fumies?
Portia xx

Curve Kicks GIVEAWAY WINNERS

.

Post by Portia

.

Hey Gang,

Thanks to Azar for another fun giveaway. Let’s see who the lucky winners are.
Portia xx

Curve Kicks GIVEAWAY WINNERS

Curve Kicks Liz Claiborne FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Melon, mandarin orange, cassia, pear
Heart: Peony, passionfruit, freesia, lily-of-the-valley
Base: Sandalwood, vanilla, peach, vetiver, cedar

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

Today’s giveaway: There are two prizes, one each.
Curve Kicks for Women 5.4 ml minis
P&H Worldwide

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Closed Thursday 29th October 2015 10pm Australian EST
Winners were chosen by random.org

Winners brooklodgePhoto stolen brooklodge

Amy Orvin

Lindaloo

The winners will have till Sunday 1st November 2015 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

 

Noir Exquis by Bertrand Duchaufour for L’Artisan Perfumes 2015

.

Post by Robert Herrmann

.

Hi APJ,

I cannot help but notice the irony in this…..
Imagine you are the owner of a successful Espresso Bar, located in a highly trafficked tourist destination for 13 years. All those years you’ve been searching for the perfect coffee-centric perfume to wear in the Cafe to no avail. A perfume that won’t clash with the scents of the shop. You’ve tried them all from designer to niche to uber-niche to “they’re SO niche that nobody knows their name and they only answer their phone once every two months……”

Noir Exquis L'Artisan coffee eliasfalla PixabayPhoto Stolen Pixabay

Finally it’s time to sell the business and kick back a bit.

Then and only then, after 13 years with only two weeks left of ownership, the perfect perfume comes along.

Well, of COURSE it does. (Cue gnashing if teeth and rending of hair)

Noir Exquis by L’Artisan Perfumes 2015

Noir Exquise by Bertrand Duchaufour

Noir Exquis L`Artisan Parfumeur FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Chestnut, orange
Heart: Orange blossom, coffee, maple sap
Base: Ebony, heliotrope, vanilla, tonka bean and sandalwood

From L’Artisan: Noir Exquis is a work of contrast and the unexpected. The addictive note of coffee, combined with the warm and comfortable notes of maple syrup, glazed chestnuts and orange blossom, brings an intriguing juxtaposition to this fragrance. Rich and velvety, Noir Exquis connects these two persons during this moment beyond time and place…… Opulent and gourmand, Noir Exquis is a fragrance with a warm and charistmatic aura. Notes: Glazed chestnut, Coffee, Maple syrup, Macassar Wood

Noir Exquis is beautiful, and everything you could possibly wish for in an espresso cafe-friendly scent. Lush, dark, and creamy. A mellow coffee note (dark roast clearly!), threaded with notes of vanilla, chestnut, spices, and a gorgeous hit of maple sap.

Noir Exquis L'Artisan Pat Guiney Paris Cafe FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

A perfume meant to bring to mind a tête-à-tête, a secret rendezvous for two lovers in a dark Parisian Cafe, windows steamed up and the low hum of conversation from the other customers. A mostly untouched meal sits on the table, the lovers too enchanted by each other to eat anything. Hands entwined, the screeching jet-roar of the espresso machine from behind the bar, the loud grating sound of the coffee grinder. The smell of steamed milk, cinnamon, and coffee permeates the humid air. On the sidewalk in front of the cafe, a man sells roasted chestnuts in newspaper coronets, and every time the cafe door swings open the nutty smell from the chestnuts comes inside.

All of this, bottled.

THIS is the heart of Noir Exquise. And it is gorgeous.

Further reading: Megan In St Maxime and Bois de Jasmin
LuckyScent has $120/50ml
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $5/ml

Have you tried L’Artisan Noir Exquis?
Robert Herrmann XX