With Guerlain’s Sylvaine Delacourte in Paris + Photo Essay

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Post by Ainslie Walker

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Hello Fragrance lovers – something very special for you today!

Sylvaine Delacourte’s story is of hard work and perseverance. Currently Guerlain’s Artistic Director of Fragrance, an inspiring pioneer, in an historically male dominated industry. She has instigated change and innovation within Guerlain’s traditional curtains.

I attended Atelier Il Était Une Fois prior to the meeting, smelling 25 original, discontinued Guerlain fragrances. A beginner when it came to Guerlain, my visit to Paris was certainly rectifying this. Basics covered and now who better to bring me up to speed than Sylvaine Delacourte!?

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With Guerlain’s Sylvaine Delacourte in Paris

Australian visit announcement!

AW: From the beginning, tell me about your career?

SD: I was a makeup artist! Knowing nothing about perfume I joined Guerlain, became a trainer in makeup for France and internationally, then Product Manager.

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AW: How did you progress into fragrance?

SD: I became curious. I worked for the most beautiful perfume brand in the world. There was no in-house training for perfume so I attended Cinquième Sens and it was a revolution! My teacher Monique Schlienger was inspiring. I fell in love with perfume. I started to buy books and bottles – my collection was enormous!

I asked, “If I can study perfume, after I will create training for Guerlain.” I was given 2 years, paid, to learn perfume.

I attended Isipca, Firmenich and many more! I spent one week with Jean Claude Ellena.

I kept my word and created perfume training for Guerlain. I was the first person to do sales training about perfume at that time.

AW: From trainer to perfumery?

SD: Jean Paul Guerlain invited me for lunch. Handing me 3 blotters, he said “I’m creating a fragrance” I replied, “I am a beginner, I know nothing!” He insisted, I made my choice and he said, “I feel exactly the same.” It was Heritage. He said “stop what you’re doing and come work with me.”
I became evaluator, technological coach and psychological coach. [Laughs]
We did many perfumes together; from after Samsara, to Champs Elysees – a turning point: I was quite alone in that project, working with Olivier Cresp from Firmenich, nobody knew -it was secret and it was chosen to launch!!

JPG was upset about Champs Elysees, “Sylvaine, go into marketing, it will be good for you.” He developed Coriolan and Mahora – good perfumes but commercial disasters.
Guerlain was not in good health, I was asked to come back, “we have to launch a perfume, it must be a success!”

I developed one with Maurice Roucel and won against JPG and other perfumers it was L’Instant de Guerlain I cosigned with Maurice. Next, I won Pour Homme and after I won a floral, Insolence.

Finally I was made Director of Creation.

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AW: Your current role?

SD: I control all the tools and language about perfumes we transmit to beauty advisers, press and marketing. I know all the steps of the perfumer; I know what’s inside. I know how to talk about it, so I know perfectly the message we need to give.

AW: Bespoke Fragrances?

SD: Since 2006 I’ve made 35 bespoke fragrances. I have 6 to make now! I created a 2-hour consultation with psychoanalysis, olfactive tests – I make them anosmic, almost in an hypnotic state to find positive smells from their life.

AW: Working with Michael Edwards?

SD: He is very cute. He comes many times, yes, to see me – twice a year to talk new products and their pyramids. He asks, “Are you ok with this category,” first. He is very professional and serious, does not take risks. Very kind -a gentleman. He understands perfectly the fragrances.

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AW: Two fragrances most special to you?

SD: They are all my babies, but 2 are very important:

L’Instant de Guerlain for Women as it was tough at that time. I cosigned with Maurice Roucel, I was in the spotlight and it meant a new life for me.

Cuir Beluga I made for myself, it is me! It is my perfume! Cuir Beluga is the most beautiful fragrance I have created. It is difficult to stay at that level. This will be by my gravestone!

AW: Working with Thierry Wasser?

SD: I worked with Thierry on 3 fragrances before he joined Guerlain, when he was still at Firmenich, Quand Vient La Pluie, Iris Ganache and Guerlain Homme.

La Petite Robe Noir, the original, was an exclusive. When Thierry joined Guerlain he said in an elegant way “I have kidnapped your formula to make it more international!” [Smiling]

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AW: Difficulties as a woman?

Always fighting as a woman – I did not want to be in the spotlight but when you do something you are proud of, you want to be recognized. Now, everyone in the team is important.

AW: “Musk-inade,” working with musk -L’Instant Magic days!

I am very fond of musk! It is very comforting, elegant, refined, and warm. Some are difficult to catch. You must blend a bouquet musks for everyone to smell it. It’s not easy to work with musk, it hugs close to skin, and it’s hard to make it extraverted. Musk is tenacious but has no trail. We have to add trail to the musk.

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AW: Raw materials you like / don’t like?

I love vanilla, mimosa, heliotrope, iris and violet. I love vetiver and patchouli. Vetervyl acetate, heliotropin and hedione.

I work on delicacy and subtlety. I like to work raw materials in contrasting ways e.g. Cruel Gardenia – I made Gardenia like lace, very delicate and subtle. I made vanilla fresh and green in Angelique Noire. Rose Barbare’s rose is not romantic or fresh but dark, musky, nutty.

I don’t like indole – too animalic for me!

Oud I find the hardest – I don’t like it. Thierry loves working with that kind of note. I am happy he takes care of this!

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Sylvaine Delacourte Australian Visit:

Sylvaine visits Australia November 3rd – 5th, launching L’Art et la Matiere collection, David Jones, Sydney.

Sylvaine oozes such passion for the brand and fragrances; specifics roll off her tongue without hesitation. She will share her remarkable knowledge to attendees. In addition she will host workshops, where VIP’s will create their own floral fragrances.

– 3rd November 6:30pm / 5th November 4pm instore at DJ’s.
– Perfume Creation Workshop $65, 4th November 10am / 5th November 1pm

BOOK through Sydney Perfume Lovers Meetup Group online or David Jones.

Thankyou for reading! Hope to see you there!
Ainslie X

Peety by Angelo Pregoni for O`Driu 2013

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Post by Azar

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Hi there fellow Junkies!

In 20 13 I wrote a review of O’Driu Peety and a subsequent two-part interview with O’Driu’s controversial perfumer Angelo Pregoni. Several readers were put off, maybe even pissed off, at the suggestion of adding pee to perfume. At the time, adding bodily fluids to fragrance smacked of a middle school science project and seemed an ill conceived, sophomoric attempt at marketing. In retrospect I see that the reference to pee served its purpose, drawing attention to the House of O’Driu and to the talents of Pregoni – not an easy thing to do in an industry that has so many accomplished perfumers and where at least 1,600 new fragrances are introduced every year!

Peety by Angelo Pregoni for O`Driu 2013

Peety Revisited – The Truth be Told

peety-odriu-fragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Jasmine, rose, tobacco leaf, moss
Heart: Mandarin orange, bitter orange, amber, cinnamon, pink pepper
Base: Patchouli, sandalwood, tonka bean

Three years on I am still enjoying Peety – without any adulterants. On me it is a gorgeously warm, animalic oriental, the perfect scent for autumn or for any time I want to feel good. I don’t care about Pregoni’s antics or what he believes in (and the same goes for Coco Chanel) – I just love the perfume and appreciate the talent that created it. And Unlike many of my other indie and niche fragrances, Peety never goes into storage. It is out for use all year long.

That being said, I am not focusing here on defending Peety or the talents of Pregoni, or ranting against attempts to marginalize someone or something because it doesn’t fit into a prescribed template. My reason for revisiting Peety is that I’ve come to realize to what extent other peoples’ opinions affect me. Sadly, up until today, I have been wearing Peety secretly – not admitting how much I adore this stuff and what I really think of Pregoni’s talent, for fear I too will be marginalized or sniffed at.

peety-odriu-eric-may-amber-eyes-flickrFlickr

I have always considered myself outspoken, but the Peety thing made me realize that I carry around plenty of irrational fears revolving around not being liked, “friended” or appreciated for who I really am…but how can anyone know who I really am (and what I really like) if I’m afraid to say what I think? It seems this kind of honesty often involves some risk – either to the sense of self or to the sensibilities of others.

LuckyScent has $180/50ml + Samples

Azar xx

giveaway TheTruthAboutMummy

Petty GIVEAWAY

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have 1 winner who will receive:
1 x 2ml spray decant of Peety by O’Driu
1 x 5ml decant of vintage Eau de Rochas
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOW DO YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Please tell us if you ever find yourself intimidated by the knowledge of a perfume expert or the consensus of a crowd – so much so that you keep your ideas and opinions to yourself? Does the prospect of defending your favorite fragrance or navigating a gauntlet of criticism take the wind out of your sails or, like the Union Civil War naval officer David (James) G. Farragut, do you simply say “Damn the torpedoes…go ahead…full speed!”

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Wednesday 19th October 2016 10pm Australian EdsT and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winners will be chosen by random.org
The winners will have till Sunday 23rd October 2016 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit

 

L’Attesa by Lucca Maffei for Masque Milano 2016

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Post by Robert Herrmann

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L’Attesa by Lucca Maffei for Masque Milano 2016

Hello beautifully fragrant friends,

I know I’ve talked about it before, that magic moment when you discover a scent that absolutely sweeps you off your feet. A scent that makes you just HAVE to sit down before you fall down in an orgasmic faint. In other words, swoon-worthy.

L’Attesa by Masque Milano 2016

L’Attesa by Lucca Maffei

lattesa-masque-fragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, neroli, champagne
Heart: Iris, orris root, tuberose, ylang-ylang
Base: Sandalwood, oakmoss, leather

Yup. That would be the effect that Masque Milano’s L’Attesa had/has on me.

Luca Turin in writing about this magnificent scent said last spring (and I paraphrase):
“…an excellent iris (I cannot think of a better one available today)….”

And boy-howdy it is SO iris, or rather IRIS (IN ALL CAPS) and it lasts on my skin a very long time. On and on, A veritable over-abundance of iris in the very best way possible. So. Iris? Check. Gorgeous? Check. Long lasting? Check. FBW??? Check.

Luca Maffei, the nose behind this fragrance is a niche-fragrance genius having authored such perfumes as Néa and Garuda for Jules Et Mad, the exquisite Rose De Taif edp AND extrait for Perris Monte Carlo, and Cologne Intense for Houbigant among many others.

lattesa-masque-iris-champagne-pexelsPDI

L’Attesa (the wait) is exactly that. With three different types of iris, it’s simply anticipation amped up X 1000. Luxurious, smooth as hell, rich and deep. To me, it brings to mind the minutes before a clandestine midnight meet-up in a private hothouse, two glasses of champagne just poured and tested for taste, the fizzy bubbles tickling your nose with that glorious yeasty fermented odor.

The hothouse is full of blooming iris and white flowers, and orange trees, their scent mingling in the warm moist humid air with the perfume of hundreds of bouquets.

A sexual encounter is ensured in a setting like this, so you lay your well-worn leather jacket on the bark-chip pathway creating a place for love making, the leather scent mixing with the smell of just-tilled gardens, rooty, earthy, and fecund.

You hear some soft steps on the gravel path outside. The hothouse door opens. And there is your lover.

The night has just begun.

lattesa-masque-antti-t-nissinen-greenhouse-flickrFlickr

Further reading: Colognoisseur and
LuckyScent has $165/35ml
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $7/0.5ml

Have you tried L’Attesa? What other iris fragrances do you love?
Robert Herrmann x

Immortelle de Corse by Claire Chambert for L`Occitane 2011

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Post by Claire Vukcevic

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G’Day lovely-smelling APJ people!

Have you ever nicked a perfume from your parents or siblings? I have. Well, I’m too scared of my father to lift his Terre d’Hermes parfum. But I’ve mentally placed post-its on it just in case, you know… My mother has no interest in perfume, but like any good mum, is given loads of it and stacks it all up at the back of her wardrobe.

Now, I used to joke that the only perfume I’d be likely to inherit from my mum would be a half-used bottle of Eternity. But it turns out that she only likes No. 5, and so I was free to take her vintage No 19 EDT, vintage Je Reviens, and a bottle of Opium that she tried to persuade me not to take “because it must be 40 years old at this point and no good at all.” Ha!

Also among the bottles I re-housed for her was L’Occitane’s Immortelle de Corse. I had never heard of it. A quick search on eBay, however, told me that it’s pretty rare and that people pay up to €200 for it. But I don’t think I’d ever sell it because it’s G…G….G…Gorgeous.

Immortelle de Corse by L`Occitane 2011

Immortelle de Corse by Claire Chambert

immortelle-de-corse-loccitane-en-provence-fragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Corsican immortelle
Heart: Honey, rose, black tea
Base: Corsican immortelle, benzoin, iris, musk

I’m a big immortelle fan, to the extent that I grow it in my garden and own pretty much every perfume iteration of the note. To me, it smells in turn of delicious hay, tea, leather, maple syrup, honey, booze, curry, and sometimes dried grass. It is not a simple, one-dimensional smell, so that’s why I think it’s not redundant to own more than one fragrance that features it.

immortelle-de-corse-loccitane-strawflower-pixabayPDI

 

Initially, Immortelle de Corse smells like whiskey mixed with Acacia honey. The rich booziness that rolls off the topnotes remind me somewhat of the Scottish whiskey note in Like This, which also features immortelle, but with less smoke and gingerbread, and more of a simple, liquid honey.

There is a maple syrup-like chewiness to the honey that’s pitched halfway between amber and burned sugar, but the accord never comes off as heavy or sickly. Immortelle can be slightly cloying, but here the potential clinginess of the maple-honey note has been cut with notes of black tea, which introduce air and smoke.

There is also a dry, powdery iris evident in the drydown, which joins with the delicious smell of sun-baked hay and benzoin to make you think of lazy harvest afternoons, smoking on a shady veranda and looking contentedly at all the haystacks you’ve just built. Basically, it’s a cornucopia of harvest smells – wine must, honey, booze, hay, and tea.

Longevity is great – about 6 hours on me, when it fades into a leafy, curried warmth that is pure immortelle. The kind of person I see enjoying this would be a fan of other autumn harvest fumes such as Botrytis, Volutes, and Frapin 1270.

immortelle-de-corse-loccitane-wheatstacks_end_of_summer-monet-wikipediaWikipedia

Further reading: Now Smell This

What about you guys? Have you ever nicked, er, I mean, “borrowed” perfumes from family members? If so, what were they?

Slán agus Beannacht libh go léir!

Claire

Claire also writes for Take One Thing Off

Rahele GIVEAWAY WINNERS

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Post by Portia

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Hey All,

Great response this week. Thank you to Neela Vermeire. Rahele is not available commercially yet but will be on the Neela Vermeire Creations page soon.
Portia xx

Rahele GIVEAWAY WINNERS

 

rahele-neela-vermeire-creations-fragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Osmanthus, woody notes, spices, floral notes, herbal notes, leather, oakmoss

 

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have 2 winners who will receive:
1 x sample of Rahele provided by Neela Vermeire
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Closed Saturday 16th October 2016 10pm Australian EdsT
Winners were chosen by random.org

Winners Are Bodie Strain Sydney Opera House Fireworks Flickr

Jaybee

Hamamelis

The winners will have till Wednesday 19th October 2016 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit

5 Neglected Warm Day + Cool Night Fragrances

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Post by Portia

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Hey there APJ,

So it’s a Mid Season again. YAY! These are my favourite bits of the year. Autumn and Spring. Why? Well, though I do love the warmth and freezing cold I find life much easier between 20C and 30C as top range heats. Dressing for the day is easier and you only need a comfy old jumper or hoodie as standby for cooler evenings. I also seem to function better physically and mentally in the Mid Seasons and I often feel more inspired to create positive change in my life.

It’s great for fragrance too because almost everything goes, here are some things that I love for these glorious days. I’ve chosen some fragrances that seemed to get a lot of attention when they were released but then have been basically ignored ever since. Yes, I talk about them but I rarely see them mentioned elsewhere so here’s a friendly reminder of some of my Mid Season loves.

5 Neglected Warm Day + Cool Night Fragrances

Fragrantica

Mitzah by DIOR

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Coriander, rose, spices, cinnamon, labdanum, vanilla, honey, patchouli, incense

Mitzah opens all hot smoky spices and incense, with unmentioned leather and tobacco notes. Not an intense journey through the perfume with mountainous peaks and troughs, while there are definite start middle and end notes it’s more of a progression. The kick at the start warms slowly and languidly through mildly sweet towards a honeyed amber dry down.

 

Fragrantica

The Aoud by Mancera

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Geranium, sandalwood, saffron, incense, rose, agarwood (oud), leather, ambergris

Oudh, geranium and sandalwood are triumphant kings through the story of this fragrance for me, their characters working in tandem and against each other to keep The Aoud interesting and unusual. Though rose is a featured note it doesn’t play heavily here, more a light accompaniment with the leather, saffron and incense. Blooms in the heat and is cuddly at night.

Cuir Pleine Fleur James Heeley FragranticaFragrantica

Cuir Pleine Fleur by James Healey

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Italian bergamot, Violet leaf, Cinnamon
Heart: Mimosa, Hawthorn, Suede, Rose, Honey
Base: Vetiver, Castoreum, Birch, Atlas cedar

Cuir Pleine Fleur is one of the easiest leathers I’ve ever smelled, friendly, well worn kid gloves and while being fragrant it is never overpowering or uncomfortable. A green leather, if you can believe it. I am loving it this season because it has a cool edge for warm days and the soft and,alias make it cozy in the cool.

Indian Wood 11.1 Parfumerie Generale FragranticaFragrantica

Indian Wood by Parfumerie Generale

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Sandalwood, vetiver, moss, spicy mint, nutmeg, cardamom, coconut milk, lemon zest

Chai! Sweet, milky, spicy and warming but with a green facet that gives it a papery rasp and picks Indian Wood up. This sweetness comes from the sweetness of milky woods, piquant spices and the warm memories of cooking. Even though this is a gourmand it’s green dryness keeps it from overwhelming in the heat.

Divine EdP Divine FragranticaFragrantica

Divine EdP by Divine Parfums

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Tuberose, peach, coriander
Heart: Orange blosson, rose, spices, patchouli, gardenia, jasmine
Base: Sandalwood, vanilla, musk, oakmoss

Big White Flowers and peachy/coriander skank bomb. The tuberose is excellent and lushly indolic, I am always surprised there is no ylang here because I am reminded of its sensual lushness, maybe it’s the orange blossom/tuberose melange.

LuckyScent or First In Fragrance have most of these babies

What do you wear Mid Season or what do you love that isn’t talked about much anymore?
Portia xx

 

Rahele by Bertrand Duchaufour for Neela Vermeire Creations 2016

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Post by Portia

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WOO HOO Fumies!

Yes, it’s finally here. The long anticipated and much talked about newest release from Neela Vermeire. As you know Neela is a mate of mine so not only did APJ get a sample but there are two extras to give away!
How freaking exciting is that?
Portia xxx

Rahele by Neela Vermeire Creations 2016

Rahele by Bertrand Duchaufour

rahele-neela-vermeire-creations-fragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Osmanthus, woody notes, spices, floral notes, herbal notes, leather, oakmoss

Rahele smells of green shady walks on summer days, slightly furry, like running silk satin over your cheeks and cool spices mixed and ready to throw in the pan. I’m surprised that there aren’t resins mentioned in the note list like galbanum or myrrh and my nose tells me there is saffron and some vegetal musks involved as well. Osmanthus is not a note I’m really clear on to be honest but I’m getting a lightly minty powdered green vibe that could be a floral. A bit like stock really….

rahele-by-neela-vermeire-creations-matthiola_incana-wikimediaWikiMedia

Rahele is not a big marching band style of fragrance but a calm, tranquil, elegant and fresh adventure in scent. It has a similar aloof yet cozy feeling that some of the Mona di Orio fragrances have, compelling yet restrained. For anyone who has complained that Neela Vermeire’s Creations are more fragrance than they can handle then this could be your entry point. Same meticulous attention to detail, same smooth transitions and same luxury feel but done in a way that is soothing as well as being commanding.

My mate Scott pronounced it his favourite in the Neela range, big call.

Rahele is not available commercially yet but will be on the Neela Vermeire Creations page soon.
Here’s a chance for you to try it first……

Rahele GIVEAWAY

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have 2 winners who will receive:
1 x sample of Rahele provided by Neela Vermeire
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOW DO YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Please tell us which is your favourite Neela Vermeire fragrance or the one you’re most interested to try?

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Saturday 16th October 2016 10pm Australian EdsT and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winners will be chosen by random.org
The winners will have till Wednesday 19th October 2016 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit

Our Two Greyhounds Arrived

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Post by Portia

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Hi crew,

Yesterday we took ownership of two perfectly beautiful greyhound dogs. Both male, not quite two years old and neither had made it to the track yet or even been named. They were the slow pokes of their families and were heading for the rainbow bridge. I took Jin out to meet them and it was instant love.

Our Two Greyhounds Arrived

paris-and-jinx-in-their-new-home-oct-2016

I know this is a crap picture but this was the first one taken in their new home on our balcony.

The Black one on the left is mine and he is called Paris. On the right the Grey/Blue one is Jin’s and his name is Jinx. We did have other names picked but the dogs really didn’t seem to fit them so we went through our list of names till they perked up at one.

I have been wearing Madagascar Jasmine by Naomi Goodsir because the jasmine is in bloom in Sydney and I wanted in on that loveliness and Bulgari Man In Black because foggy woods are freaking YUMMY!

Sorry, I have to get back to cuddling my puppy.

Aren’t they gorgeous?

Portia xx

The Art and Olfaction Awards 2017: Submissions Open

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Post by Portia

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Heya All,

Basically I cut and pasted with only a few deviations from the Press release. Exciting nonetheless.
Portia x

The Art and Olfaction Awards 2017

Submissions Open

the-art-and-olfaction-awards-2017

The fourth annual Art and Olfaction Awards events will take place in Europe: Twenty-five shortlisted perfumes and projects will be flagged at Esxence in Milan (March 2017), and we will announce the five winners in a public ceremony in Berlin, on May 6, 2017.

Submissions for the awards are open to independent and artisan perfume brands, and experimental practitioners with scent from all countries. Submissions open on October 5th, 2016 at 9am (PST) and close on November 28th, 2016 at 11:59pm (PST).
In addition to this, we have expanded our panel of expert judges to better represent the global community we serve.

2017’s judges include:
Michael Edwards (UK/Australia), Luca Turin (Greece), Christophe Laudamiel (USA), Annick Le Guérer (France), Katie Puckrik (England), Mandy Aftel (USA), Sarah Horowitz-Thran (USA), Andy Tauer (Switzerland), Helder Suffenplan (Germany), Denyse Beaulieu (France), Mark Behnke (USA), Matthias Janke (Germany), Steven Gontarski (USA), Antonio Gardoni (Italy), Ashley Eden Kessler (USA), Bruno Fazzolari (USA), Dana El Masri (Canada), Harald Lubner (Germany), Sherri Sebastian (USA), Yvettra Grantham (USA), Ashraf Osman (Switzerland), Caro Verbeek (The Netherlands), Kaya Sorhaindo (Germany/USA), Kóan Jeff Baysa (USA), Matthias Tabert (USA), Simon Niedenthal (Sweden), with several more to be announced.

Learn more at Art and Olfaction Awards

Angel Muse by Quentin Bisch for Thierry Mugler 2016

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Post by Val the Cookie Queen

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All Hail APJ Earthlings,

MUSEology

Muse: Drones Tour 2016

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I went to Vienna earlier in the year to see MUSE on their Drones Tour. I knew that it would be good but had no idea that it would blow my mind. It opened with futuristic soldiers complete with glowing blue eyes, patrolling the perimeter of the 360°rotating stage. Drones in their docks suspended from the ceiling ready to fly around the hall. Retractable silk banners hanging, acting as cinema screens.

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The band came on dressed in black, as opposed to their normal prominent and flamboyant outfits. Matt Bellamy, lead singer and guitarist was uncharacteristically chilled, letting the incredible and perfectly synchronized production shine. This was a thrill ride of the most epic proportions and I cannot forget it. Six months later and I am still playing MUSE at top volume. One of my top three gigs and I have been to hundreds.

Angel Muse by Quentin Bisch for Thierry Mugler 2016

angel-muse-thierry-mugler-fragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Grapefruit, pink pepper
Heart: Hazelnut, whipped cream, rose
Base: Vetiver, patchouli

Browsing through the perfumes at the airport last week I picked up Muse, a Mugler production and relative to the iconic Angel. Not wanting to kill my fellow passengers on the blue and yellow Lego flight I was about to take, I spritzed it on paper. A hefty sniff coated the inside of my nose for the next ten hours. (I was inspired by Clare of the Take One Thing Off Blog, and of our own APJ, and the Candy Perfume Boy to do so.)

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MUSE is a Walnut Whip of wizardry. A splendid burst of patchouli droplets, each wrapped in effervescent grapefruit and pinkness. Joyous and mouthwatering, heartwarming and sparkling. It glides into a swirling creamy nutty heart, as light as a marshmallow, tinged with a green orange. Divineness. The underlying vetiver stops Muse from becoming too sweet, as it smoothly glides into the base teaming up with vanilla and the ever-hovering patchouli. A kaleidoscope of enjoyment. I have been wearing it non-stop. Madness. 🙂

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MUSE pushed me outside of my comfort zone. Available everywhere, a flanker, mainstream. Who would have thought it? I bought the 30ml Cosmic Pebble bottle, which sounds like something off of a Hawkwind album. We have come full circle. It´s available all over the world. Comparatively cheap and worth a shot. You just never know.

#HateToLove Angel Muse Making of – Mugler

Further reading: Candy Perfume Boy and Now Smell This
David Jones has AUD$99/30ml

Which Muse would you prefer to be around darling hearts, sweeties?

Angelic Bussis
CQ

(Ed: All photos donated by Val unless specified. Thanks lady. XX)