Guerlain

Guerlain, Guerlain, Guerlain Samples

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Post by Eliza D

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I’ve been in a bit of a rut fragrance-wise for a few months, then I got to go to The Perfume House in Portland and I was instantly lifted out of my snit. Though the two samples I brought home were not right for me, there was a fragrance on the sleeve of my sweater that had to be a Guerlain, since I spent a lot of time in that corner of the store, sniffing fragrance and making weird murmery noises that scared the other shoppers.

Guerlain, Guerlain, Guerlain Samples

So, I went to the Posh Peasant, and found out that I could get 5 x 1.5 ml spray samples of any Guerlain fragrance they carry for $26 US+shipping. and ordered Shalimar PI, L’Heure Bleue, Champs Elysee, Vol de Nuit and Chamade. They arrived in four days!

Vol de Nuit

Vol de Nuit Guerlain Fragranticahoto Stolen Fragrantica

First on was Vol de Nuit. Oh my gosh, how wondrous! The bergamot and light top notes gave way very quickly to that incredible powdery dry down anchored with vanilla and moss that is so familiar to me from the other two Guerlains that I have owned or tried: Samsara and Mitsouko (the latter of which instantly transports me to my mother’s bedroom in the 60s…she did not wear perfume, but her friends did, and when we had parties the impromptu coat room was a glorious treasure trove), but I was disappointed with its longevity.

Chamade

Chamade Guerlain FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Next day was Chamade. Oh my word! Lovely cripsness followed by flowers and then sandalwood. Could this be my new forever fragrance? Could I wear this to work and not feel as if I was pushing the limit of acceptance? Was it better suited for home, when I was alone with my loved one? What an amazing feat, and of course created in the era I consider to be my formative time.

Champs Elysees

Champs Elysees Guerlain FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Monday was Champs Elysees, and of all the five, this was the most disappointing. No bones, just fluff, and too sweet. Yes roses, but grocery store roses, not boutique roses…I almost washed it off.

Shalimar Parfum Initial

Shalimar Parfum Initial Guerlain FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Then I tried Shalimar Parfum Initial. This was the one I almost did not order. I had read so much about how it was JUST a flanker, and what was Thierry Wasser thinking to mess with an old classic and how it was made for soccer moms and teenagers. I sprayed with trepidation. First came the citrusy top notes calling out while the rest of the perfume gathered in the wings. Then jasmine and iris and some rose, but a different rose. Yes, sweet, but not bubble gum headache sweet…more precious. Lovely, soft, modern, patchouli and vanilla. Incredible. I loved this from first sniff. Great sillage! Could it be the one?

L’Heure Bleue

L'Heure Bleue Guerlain FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

But I still had one more to go: L’Heure Bleue. I chose this because it is a classic, and because of the line in the Bond Movie about it…

I sprayed it on after arriving home from work. Immediately I knew this was not the same as the others, but still somehow similar. Licorice topnotes warm and balmy from the start, it deepened as I wore it with neroli and tuberose taking main stage. I was swept away to a place where the air is thick with fragrance all the day long, this is an after the hot tub fragrance, a bundle up in fur in winter and dream of longer days fragrance.

I am so grateful to Guerlain for continuing the art of perfumery through the years. Perfumery is divine. I am blessed. And I am wearing Shalimar PI.

Eliza D

5 Scents That Touched Gabriella’s Soul

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Post by Gabriella

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Hello fragrant friends! Today’s post is inspired by something I saw recently on the Vampy Varnish makeup blog. The blogger had photographed and diarised her hair and makeup trends from an early age to the present. I thought it would be fun to present and discuss five perfumes from my past that are meaningful in some way and chronicle a bit of my perfumed history….

My Perfumed History

Five scents that have touched my soul

Jontue Revlon FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

1. My first scent: Jontue by Revlon 1976

It’s 1984 and I am the tender age of nine. My family and I are in Hong Kong en route to England for my uncle’s wedding and for some reason, it’s decided that I am old enough to have my first fragrance. I remember the scene more than Jontue itself. It’s late at night and I am amazed that shops are still open, there’s the buzz and hum of the bright neon signs and the slightly salted smell of the humid night air. I’m feeling very grown up (despite my now cringeworthy sartorial choice of a orange tie-dyed jump suit to match my Mum’s one in blue). Jontue, with its powerful green and white floral elements felt exciting. Looking back, it did indeed set a trend as this remains my favourite genre.

FragranceNet has Jontue in its current formulation from $14/2.3oz EdC before discount

Anais Anais Cacharel FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

2. My first signature scent: Anais Anais by Roger Pellegrino, Robert Gonnon, Paul Leger and Raymond Chaillan for Cacharel 1978

Anais Anais was my signature for years and years. The scent of birthdays and Christmases past, often being accompanied by the beautiful matching soap and body cream. It remains a favourite to this very day, the bright green lily and hyacinth combination is irrevocably part of my identity.

Anais Anais is available at most department stores and online sellers.
Fragrance Shop has the EdT starting at $23/30ml before discount
Surrender To Chance starts at $3/ml

Aromatics Elixir Clinique FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

3. The occasion scent: Aromatics Elixir by Bernard Chant for Clinique 1971

My first real obsession was makeup, not perfume. My teenage years marked my first tentative foray and back then, Clinique was the brand of choice as it was seen as a safe option for young girls. The brand’s Raspberry Glace lipstick was my premiere purchase, only to be worn on weekends and most probably washed off with the Clinique 3-step skincare regime that was all the rage. Clinique of course, offered gifts with purchase which is how I discovered Aromatics Elixir. It was the scent associated with Christmas for me, as I would stock up at that time of year to get the gift. The woody aromatic chypre was so unlike anything I’d usually wear and so exciting and daring. When I found out that I was to be presented with a prize in my final year of high school, something I had waited five years for, I chose to wear this scent. Dabbed naughtily (against school rules) under my navy and white school uniform, it will forever be a scent of achievement and power for me.

Aromatics Elixir is available from most Clinique counters
Beauty Encounter has the parfum starting at $11/4ml
Surrender To Chance starts at $3/ml

Samsara Guerlain FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

4. The happy memory scent: Samsara by Jean-Paul Guerlain for Guerlain 1989

I was 17, I had finished school and we were spending our first Christmas away from home on a holiday in Hawaii. It was an exciting time both because the future was full of possibilities and Hawaii had more makeup and clothes and stuff to buy than I’d ever laid eyes on. By this time, Dior and Chanel and Guerlain were the brands of makeup I now chose to spend my hard earned savings on and a purchase of the latter in Hawaii was accompanied by a sample of Samsara. The beautiful combination of jasmine and sandalwood reminds me of the New Year’s Eve party at our hotel. Everyone was eating, drinking and dancing and having a great time, the air was twinkling with fairy lights and the smell of anticipation.

Samsara is available at most department stores.
FragranceNet has the EdT $36/50ml before coupon
Surrender to Chance has samples starting at $3/ml

Lys Mediterranee Frederic Malle FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

5. The rabbit hole scent: Lys Mediterranee by Edouard Flechier for Frederic Malle 2000

I had started to dabble in a perfume hobby by the time the Frederic Malle range had launched in Sydney, but it was Lys Mediterranee that really pushed me over the edge. The green slightly salty, tropical lily was perfection on my skin and I knew I had found something stupendous and magical.

Lys Mediterranee is available at Mecca Cosmetica starting at $142/3 x 10ml
Surrender to Chance has samples starting at $6/ml

What did you think of my list? Did I name any favourites? What scents have a historical importance to you?

With much love till next time!
M x

Fragrances for Feeling Good: Michael Bublé

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Hiya Happy Huffers,

So one of my fave singers is Michael Bublé. I don’t find him sexy or hot but he seems to be sweet and has an endearing way about him in his work. Like he knows he is not the coolest but that his amazing voice completely overrides everything else, he also seems to have a sense of humour. V Important!

Feeling Good Michael Buble Man alive FlickrPhoto Stolen Man Alive! Flickr

Feeling Good Michael Buble Dallas Bittle WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

What does Michael Bublé have to do with fragrance? Nothing really except I wanted a reason to write about a couple of my “Feeling Good” fragrances that I love to spritz at any time.

Amoureuse FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Amoureuse by Parfums DelRae seems to be a constant winner for me lately, a lovely spicy lily and white flower with some water and honey skank. I just can’t get enough of its feral beauty and have used nearly half a bottle since I got it from Madeleine’s unloved box. I don’t understand why Amoureuse makes me smile but every time I spritz, there it is. Pearly whites aglowing.

Bellodgia FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Bellodgia EdP and Parfum by Caron are a super stand by glamour set. The EdP gives projection and the Parfum gives glossy, glowing depths. This carnation, white flower and musky woods oldie still packs a punch in its newest incarnations and if you can get some vintage you are in for a very special treat. If Feeling Good is about feeling invincible, powerful, glamorous and elegant then Bellodgia fits the bill.

Feeling Good Michael Buble Shalimar edc PriceRitePhoto Stolen Price Rite

Shalimar EdC and Parfum are a killer combination. There is something very bright about the EdC that gives it an extra sparkle above all the other Shalimar strengths, pair that with a couple of dabs of vintage Shalimar Parfum and you know it’s going to be a bumpy night full of fun and outrageous high jinks. A little secret, I hate cleaning, but when I wear the Shalimar combo it goes by in a cloud of extra special glamour.

Feeling Good Michael Buble Aromatics Elixir Perfumer's Reserve Clinique FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Aromatics Elixir Perfumers Reserve Extrait by Clinique has been doing loads of work in the last couple of months, though we are warming up here in Sydney it is still being dabbed so preciously. The whole experience of taking the pedestal box lid off, getting the magnificent dark glass molded into a fabulous flower at the front bottle out, tilting, dabbing, breathing in that first fabulous moment of fragrance. It all conspires to make me happy. A beautiful fragrant ritual, and the extrait lasts for hours and hours on me.

Feeling Good Michael Buble Aqua Allegoria Lys Soleia Guerlain FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Aqua Allegoria Lys Soleia by Guerlain gives fabulous tropical fruits, lily, ylang and vanilla with the teensiest touch of green. It is a super fun Feeling Good scent that is mainly tropical paradise but also harks back to Hollywood glamour. I also love the Aqua Allegoria gold tone cage on the bee bottle, it’s so cool and classic but a wonderful modern reinvention too. Thierry Wasser did such a good job with Lys Soleia

Last time I looked all of these fragrances were available to sample at Surrender To Chance

Michael Bublé – “Feeling Good” [Official Music Video]

Sous Le Vent by Jean Paul Guerlain 2005

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Hey Everyone,

While in Paris recently we went to the Guerlain counters in Galleries Lafayette. One of the new fragrances I was introduced to by our gorgeous SA was today’s offering. Not wanting to madly buy at Galleries Lafayette and saving myself for the Guerlain Flagship Store on the Champs Elysees I didn’t grab a bottle of it. We left the Guerlain store till our last evening, thinking it would be the Paris highlight. Sadly, that afternoon they started their renovation and we were unable to go in and purchase. No worries said I, next January I’ll come back and get one…….. DISCONTINUED!!!!! So off to my mate Ruth K, now at least I have 5ml.

Sous Le Vent by Guerlain 2005

Sous Le Vent FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Lavender, tarragon and bergamot
Heart: Green notes, jasmine and carnation
Base: Iris and woodsy notes

Originally created by Jacques Guerlain in 1933, re-orchestrated by Jean Paul Guerlain in 2005 for the renovated flagship Guerlain store on the Champs-Elysees which has been fully renovated again in 2013. The style here was a chypre, named for Cypress the island and its evergreen trees, goats, crisp flowers, fresh sea air and dark mossy, earthy, fruit groves. The 2005 reformulation has taken much of the darkness and depth.

What does this famous fragrance smell like on me?

The opening is green, bright, soapy and citric and as soon as you put it on it smells like a Guerlain, heavenly, rich, beautifully blended and the citrus crescendos over the top of the herbs like a wave that peaks, breaks and then recedes. It’s like the world has disappeared and I am sitting alone on the lovely rock mount, under the tree in the picture below but there’s no salt just fresh, bracing air.

Lone Cypress Tree DanielPaulKleinPhoto Stolen DanielPaulKlein

The heart melds seamlessly and the citrus comes back at quite unexpected times to say hello, as the opening notes say farewell Sous Le Vent quiets and softens. The floral heart is pretty but unremarkable on my skin, actually I think my skin is eating some of it because it smells quite thin, maybe I am anosmic to the notes? I have a lovely floral wash that has nothing discernible. I was hoping for much more of the animal, labdanum and also mossy darkness. I understand that the world has changed and that it’s not possible to use those products anymore, still I am sad.

Please don’t think I do not love Sous Le Vent. I do love it and once I got over the initial surprise I have been able to visit and spend time really enjoying what it is. It still carries an amazingly bright and wonderful opening, though it softens considerably upon repeated wears it’s quiet dignity has impressed me and I think I am getting more of an understanding of the elegance that Sous Le Vent delivers. Perfect scent for glamour occassions but not so rigid it couldn’t be worn as a daytime signature scent. It is pricey at around the $300 mark, if you can get it, but if someone was rich, only wore a few scents and didn’t spend all their money on collecting then I think it makes sense to have a scent that is this perfectly proportioned and while harking back to the old days is still bang up to date.

I have a 10ml decant and that will probably do me till it’s re-released.

Sous Le Vent Cyprus Goats FlickriverPhoto Stolen FlickRiver

Further reading Olfactoria’sTravels and BoisDeJasmin
Sous Le Vent can be bought at very select Guerlain boutiques worldwide, I have not seen it in Australia though.
SurrenderToChance starts at $7/ml

I’m sure Sous Le Vent is old news to you, how did you enjoy the experience? Or if you haven’t tried it, will you?
Till tomorrow, be nice to yourself,
Portia xx

WOO HOO! Birthday!

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Hello lovely APJ Friends and Family.

You may know it’s my birthday today. It couldn’t go by without some cake. But today’s cake is a little different, YOU get to make a wish and blow on the picture.

BIRTHDAY WISHES

Close your eyes

Wish for something simple and achievable in your life

Hold the thought for 3 seconds

Now say THANK YOU for four things that you are grateful for. Doesn’t matter how small or big.

Here’s the cake……

Birthday Cake candles

Blow!

So I don’t know if your wish will come true but you know you have 4 things to be grateful for. You’re doing better than almost everyone else in the world.

What will I be wafting on this special day? Vintage Shalimar Parfum. I smell so fabulous and I’m smiling like a fool. With Guerlain’s Shalimar it always feels like love.

Shalimar Parfum Wikipedia

See you later,
Portia xx

 

LA LÉGENDE DE SHALIMAR Mini Movie

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Hello Gorgeously Gorgeous and Fragrant Fumies,

My favourite fragrance of all is Guerlain’s Shalimar. Inspired by the legendary love story between Mughal Indian Emperor Shah Jahan and his lowly born wife Mumtaz Mahal (Jewel of the Palace). You can read more in Portia’s Shalimar EdC Review.

LA LÉGENDE DE SHALIMAR

You may have seen this already but I couldn’t let it pass those of you it missed by. My only complaint is that they didn’t use Bollywood stars. Why would you use Europeans when there is a veritable plethora of the real deal? Just sayin

Portia xx

Songe D’Un Bois D’Ete by Thierry Wasser for Guerlain 2012

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Hey there Crew,

Sometimes when I am in touch with Birgit from Olfactoria’s Travels she might mention a bottle or two that I love and she is ready to let loose, just such a one as this. I can tell she loved it for a while because there is a fair amount missing, sometimes tastes change or something along a similar vein eclipses your current bottle, a million reasons. Maybe you need to sell off a few to buy a newby, always an excellent way of keeping stuff loved and in rotation.

Songe D’Un Bois D’Ete by Guerlain 2012

Songe d'un Bois d'Ete Guerlain FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Cedar, jasmine, saffron, cardamom, laurel, oud, myrrh, patchouli, leather

BaseNotes gives theese featured accords:
Top: Laurel, Neroli
Heart: Jasmine, Patchouli, Saffron, Cedar
Base: Leather, Myrrh

Perfume Shrine tells me that Songe D’Un Bois D’Ete means Dreaming of a Summery Wood, cool summer evening maybe? Summer doesn’t really fit for me to be honest perhaps Autumn? Maybe that’s the dreaming bit? Dreaming in Autumn and Winter of the memories of a Summer wood but surrounded by the scents of winter. OK I’m on board with that. I love the beaded curtain on the bottle with tiny little Guerlain logos and bees, also the Arabic/French writing and the squarish, spare design that you can fit loads of on a shelf. Did I mention the box this comes in? It’s so ridiculously luxe all by itself.

Songe d'un Bois d'Ete Guerlain Turkish Delight WikiCommonsPhoto Stolen WikiCommons

Opening up I get honeyed sweets, like baklava or sugary real Turkish Delight (some days it’s more a candied citrus) with woods and fairly early on I also get a patchouli/oudh vibe that runs baseline. Songe D’Un Bois D’Ete is woodsy and sensual, spicy, and a little waxy. It washes over me in warm, elegant waves like toffee, making everything seem fluid and the air thick. Imagine looking into a brightly lit room through 1970s amber glass, a teinte, a glow, a wash of luminous whiskey coloured grandeur. Thierry Wasser has made something regal that throws such a luscious nod to the middle east but is ensconced firmly in the heart of Paris, the oudh/patchouli clean and dinner suited. How has he made these notes into a gourmand, I seriously want to eat myself up. There are some hints of smoke and the sweaty green of cardamom/cumin adding depth and variation through Songe D’Un Bois D’Ete life.

 Turkish deLIGHTPhoto Stolen LASZLO ILYES Flickr

Through my wear I am most conscious of how amazingly international I smell. It’s as if all the sweet, delicious and pretty pieces of the middle east have been distilled into a fragrance. No dust or desert, not super sweet rose or oily, cloying, heavy and dark fragrance, no camels, tents, sand or oasis. Songe D’Un Bois D’Ete is sheer but still super fragrant, it’s like Mr Wasser has added air and space to the denseness of what we expect from the middle east. So wearable and still unusual. Guerlain from top to bottom: but 21st century Guerlain.

The deep dry down is clean sweaty skin, softest, most loved, old suede and resinous myrrh but that is far, far, far into the future. Next morning there are still viable traces of Songe D’Un Bois D’Ete. What a fragrance. Wear it everywhere if you dare.

Songe d'un Bois d'Ete Guerlain Dancers BBC.UKPhoto Stolen BBC.UK

Further reading: The Non Blonde and Olfactoria’s Travels looks at the three Les Déserts d’Orient collection
PlaceVendome in Belguim has €190/75ml and also sends to the world (Birgit bought my bottle there)
Universal Perfumes has Les Déserts d’Orient collection $276/75ml and send to the world
Surrender To Chance has Songe D’Un Bois D’Ete from $4.60/.5ml or has Les Déserts d’Orient 3 x .5ml from $13

Have you tried any of the three Les Déserts d’Orient? What was your favourite? Would you like to?
Till tomorrow we at APJ wish you health, wealth and happiness, and the ability to see them all when they come.
Portia xx

L’Heure Bleue EdP by Raymond Guerlain 1912

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Hey there Perfumed Peeps,

Tonight I’m giving my fresh bathed skin L’Heure Bleue,  the modern EdP from Madeleine’s reject pile. I am totally ignoring my many other new frags for Madeleine’s unloved babies, they are seeing more wear time than anything else right now, even though I’ve still not finished opening bottles from my various travels this year. I am officially a TRAGIC, GREEDY, FRAG HOARDER!!!

L’Heure Bleue EdP (2011) by Raymond Guerlain 1912

L'Heure Bleue Guerlain FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Lemon, neroli, aniseed, bergamot, coriander
Heart: Bulgarian rose, carnation, tuberose, violet, cloves, ylang, orchid, heliotrope, neroli
Base: Vanilla, Tonka bean, iris, musk, vetiver, sandalwood, benzoin

There has been much talk of reformulation, IFRA regs etc, especially around some of our long term favourite and historical hallmark perfumes. L’Heure Bleue is a case in point, especially because last year was its centenary and that century has seen so many changes in fashion, materials and consumers taste. My oldest L’Heure Bleue in the collection only goes back to the 1980s and is an EdT. What happens on my skin with the modern EdP?

There is no denying that even in the 30 years across my L’Heure Bleue collection that it is changed. The opening is still definitively Guerlain, all sugared citrus candy and adding in the very slight spicy/herbal tinge. In fact for me the openings are the most similar part of the fragrance life. I can’t parse all the flowers for you but the bouquet is still gorgeous and beyond. Lighter, floatier, fluffier: the powders are silken soft and they waft gently in spring breezes compared to the heft and depth of the vintage. More floral and its lasting power is considerable less. It still has something glorious and fun, like eating PEZ in a bakery’s back alley. MMMMMMM

PEZ WikiCommonsPhoto Stolen WikiCommons

It has had some of it’s animalics and dirty back end amputated and towards the very dry down end in about 5-6 hours, depending, I get a very clean laundry musk that first wear surprised the freakin’ shit out of me. It is nice but not something I expect from a Guerlain, maybe a Body Shop. Really, it’s not offensive, just unexpected.

Wearing the current L’Heure Bleue is fear free. I find it polite and wearable in most situations and it has moderate to low sillage now, with good wear life. I will be interested to see how it changes over the next 30 years. If I am extremely lucky.If L’Heure Bleue was released today as it is currently I think we would love it and it would probably come out in the Guerlain exclusives line, especially with DIOR’s Milly-la-Foret and CHANEL’s 28 La Pausa being popular powdery releases by the big guns.

Further reading: Bois de Jasmin and Olfactoria’s Travels
Fragrance Shop has $74/75ml EdP
Surrencer To Chance starts at $3/ml EdP

Have you smelled any of the L’Heure Bleue formulations or strengths? Which is your favourite?
Till tomorrow, waft fragrantly,
Portia xx

GUERLAIN – Gloss D’Enfer: Nails + Lips 2013 Mini Movie

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Hiya FUMIES,

Here’s some more of the Guerlain 2013 mini movie fest. This one is so fun and 50s. I love it. Makes me smile just watching and the colours really POP this season. Lucky us.

Gloss-dEnfer-Guerlain jetsetfashionmagazinePhoto Stolen jetsetfashionmagazine

Guerlain’s Spiel: Discover Gloss d’Enfer collection made of 20 shades of bare lips sensation gloss and 10 colourful nail polishes. Play with colour and shine to capture your admirers’ hearts even more than ever.

Enjoy it,
Portia xx