Cologne? What Does It Mean?


Post by Lindaloo


Hey Hey APJ,

Recently on APJ we had a very pertinent question about the different uses of the word cologne in fragrance. One of our regular readers and commenters came up with the best description I’ve ever seen of the differences.

Here’s what says:
1: Noun: a mildly perfumed toilet water; eau de Cologne
2: Noun: an industrial city and river port in W Germany, in North Rhine-Westphalia on the Rhine

Cologne? What Does It Mean?


Lindaloo says:
Good reasons that the word “cologne” can be so confusing. Sometimes it does mean a name for men’s scents versus women’s, as it hard to convince an average man that a scent labelled as anything other than cologne is only for women.
Other times it refers simply to the the strength of the scent — EdP/parfum has more fragrant oils compared to EdT/toilette compared to EdC/cologne. Often it is more complicated in that different strengths are different in what aspects of the scent they emphasize.
Then there is “cologne” as a style of scent, ie lots citrus and herbs at the start moving to a mossy drydown. So traditional cologne starts off very refreshing and moves to a cool dusty base. With the current restrictions on oakmoss, drydowns often involve different elements.
So Atelier colognes are EdP strength but a cologne structure.

Atelier CologneAtelier Cologne

Surrender To Chance has a great range of Atelier Cologne samples and minis.

Have you been to Cologne? What is your EdC?
Portia xx

Portia’s Sizzling Summer Scents 2015 + FREE Summer Sampler

Hey Hey APJ,

While you are trolling the internet today please  jump on over and check out the newest post on My Perfume Samples. The My Perfume Samples gang have given me a really great new outlet for fragrance writing and this fortnight we decided to look at Summer Scents that may have slipped under your radar. Some really good choices as it heats up in the Northern Hemisphere and even if you want to remember the fun fizz of summer in the Southern Hemisphere.

There is also a fabulous FREE Summer Sampler!!

Portia’s Sizzling Summer Scents 2015 + FREE Summer Sampler


So please jump across and check the list out on My Perfume Samples<<JUMP. Leave a message with something you think should be there or a favourite from the group so we can have a bit of a natter about it, I’ll be dropping in regularly over the next week to answer any and all comments.

Be well, waft on.
Portia xx

Portia’s 15 Must Smell Fragrances + Coupon Code!

Hey Hey APJ,

It would make me extremely happy if you’d jump on over and check out the newest post on My Perfume Samples. Writing for My Perfume Samples has given me a really great new outlet for fragrance writing and this fortnight we decided to think about some of the most important, or best in category, fragrances that have maintained a lot of what they were originally famous for. Obviously some have changed a bit over time due to cost, availability and regulation of components but here are 15 fragrances we believe that are still excellent reference points.

There is also a huge $15 DISCOUNT CODE

Portia’s 15 Must Smell Fragrances + Coupon Code!


So please jump across and check the list out on My Perfume Samples<<JUMP. Leave a message with something you think should be there or a favourite from the group so we can have a bit of a natter about it, I’ll be dropping in regularly over the next week to answer any and all comments.

Be well, waft on.
Portia xx

Interlude Man by Pierre Negrin for Amouage 2012


Guest Post by Azar


Ed: Hi all. You may remember we had a giveaway recently and the deal was that our winners would write a short speil about one of the fragrances they won. Here is our very first winner review, I think you will agree that it is an excellent first review, evocative and intriguing. Please welcome the lovely Azar. Maybe we will be able to talk Azar into a monthly spot here on APJ. I think she shows the kind of promise that needs to be cultivated. What do you think?

Interlude Man by Amouage

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, oregano and pimento berry oil
Heart: Amber, frankincense, opoponax, cistus, labdanum and myrrh
Base: Leather, agarwood smoke, patchouli and sandalwood

Hello Portia!

The Amouage and Jacques Zolty samples arrived today. All three are beautiful but the Interlude Man just blasts me into an alternate universe…yes!
It isn’t fair to any other scent to sample it after Interlude Man. I suppose what I like best is that for just an instant it seems herby, green and sweet and then WHAMMO!
Excessive Arabian smokey, oudhy, incense, opoponax. The sillage is really out there too. Brad got a whiff two rooms away (and he loved it).

Thank you so much for this draw. When I wonder why I am a perfume junkie, oudh head and frag hoarder with an obscene collection of scents all I have to do is spray a little Interlude Man.

STCh Interlude Man PICPhoto Stolen SurrenderToChance

The art on the sample card is great too, a visual description of the scent. The pattern almost suggests the “alternate universe” and the contrasting colors reflect how the various notes play off one another over time.


Further reading: Olfactoria’sTravels and TheCandyPerfumeBoy
In Australia Libertine Parfumerie has 100ml $326 delivered in Australia (Special thanks go to LibertineParfumerie for supplying the giveaways, go see them)
Elsewhere LuckyScent has 100ml $290
SurrenderToChance starts at $4/.5ml

Perfume and Tea #1 GIVEAWAY WINNER

Hello APJ Friends and Family,

We have been having some excellent giveaways lately. I hope you are all as excited as we are about them. Thank you to everyone who joined in to welcome our newest Guest Post writer Brie. I think she is a wonderful addition to our crew, a new perspective.

Perfume and Tea #1 GIVEAWAY WINNER


1ml sample each of Vintage Cristalle, Un Ete En Provence and a sampler of spring inspired teas.

P&P anywhere in the world


You have to leave a comment welcoming our newest Guest Post writer Brie. That’s IT!

For an Extra Chance you can Tweet: @OzPerfumeJunkie Perfume and Tea GIVEAWAY


BrieDraw001a Photos Courtesy Courtney


Entries Closed Thursday April 4th 2013 10pm AusEDST.
We gave Jin a break from his draw choosing duties and Brie, with the aide of her daughters, is taking on the arduous task. The names were placed on the same sized papers, folded similarly, placed in Brie’s ceramic owl, the contents stirred by Courtney and the name chosen by Brittany. See above photos.

winner getentrepreneurialPhoto Stolen getentrepreneurial

Today’s winner is ARLINE

CONGRATULATIONS!!! You have till Sunday 7th April 2013 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or I will give the prize to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

With big love, hugs and smoochy smooches.

Portia xx

Step Back in Time: Jordan River Spikenard Foot Oil GIVEAWAY!!


Guest Post b y Jordan River The Fragrant Man


Are you spending too much on perfume? Here is a scented tale for you.


The Oil in the Alabaster Box
There are many faiths in this world. There are also many myths and legends. It’s up to you to find the truth on your fragrant journey. Let’s travel to the east this Easter to visit with a woman living on the boundaries of her culture. She has recently met a man. She believes him to be her spiritual guide. He is surrounded by men at a dinner party. She is uninvited and has to make her way past the guests to be able to offer her teacher a scented gift. The gift is spikenard oil, a costly perfume ingredient which at this volume, a Roman litra, costs the equivalent of spending a year’s salary on a scent; a scent so potent that the home where this story takes place becomes filled with fragrant air.


The room grew still
As she made her way to Jesus
She stumbles through the tears that made her blind

She felt such pain
Some spoke in anger
Heard folks whisper
There’s no place here for her kind

Still on she came
Through the shame that flushed her face
Until at last, she knelt before his feet
And though she spoke no words
Everything she said was heard
As she poured her love for the Master
From her box of alabaster

Don’t be angry if I wash his feet with my tears
And I dry them with my hair
You weren’t there the night He found me
You did not feel what I felt
When he wrapped his love all around me and
You don’t know the cost of the oil
In my alabaster box

– lyrics: Janice Sjostran
for chanteuse Cece Winans
– an interpretation of Mark 14:3-9

Judas the accountant thought this money would have been better spent feeding the poor. Nevertheless the teacher accepted this gift from a woman’s heart.

Jesus looked at her with a smile “your deed will never be forgotten. Your story will be told throughout all the lands and for all time and in ways you have never even dreamed of“.

Little could she have imagined that one day the story of her alabaster box would be told on the World Wide Web.

– a Roman litra ~ 327 grams

Album Version – Cece Winans – The Alabaster Box
A more melodic version.

Spikenard Foot Oil Giveaway

We also have a gift to give away. Brie in New York has made some spikenard foot oil especially for this post. If you would like to encounter this scent and look after your own or your loved one’s feet please leave a comment below, then go visit Jordan River at The Fragrant Man, like the site on Facebook or follow on Twitter @TheFragrantMan.

The gift recipient will be announced on Easter Sunday on The Fragrant Man and mailed to you on Tuesday.

Spikenard or nard originates in India and Nepal, high in the Himalayas. The root of the plant is the source for one of the rarest and most precious oils.

Brie would like to say that she is not a professional perfumer. This is an interest for her. She blends with the best of intentions, carefully choosing oils for their healing properties as well as for the enjoyment of smelling. Brie says that spikenard is quite tenacious and challenging to work with as in her experience it takes over the blend (similar to tea tree oil).


Rosae Mundi by Profumum 2012


Guest Post by Michael


Hi Fragaholics
The lovely Portia passed on a sample of a new fragrance currently piquing my interest, Rosae Mundi from Italian niche house Profumum.

The official lines from Profumum: “Sentiments that have has always belonged to me merge with the unseen. Joy and passion. I envision letting myself go in your arms to mysterious sensations and emotions.” Err, okidoki then.

RosaeMundi FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

gives these featured accords:
Rose, patchouli, cedar wood and vetiver.

The opening is a very familiar rosey bouquet.
The rose smells quite loud and perfumey. It doesn’t strike me as a deep multifaceted rose nor is it naturalistic. This is the smell of womens rose perfumes of past decades and does remind me of the rose in YSL’s Paris (original formulation). In addition to the rose I get a violet accord, some white florals (Jasmine?), aldehydes, iris and green notes. I think it’s supposed to provide a sort of bouquet effect, but I get more of an impression of a woman wearing a big floral rose. Remember the 80s? Shiny dress, permed hair and big shoulder pads –power dressing and power perfumes.

After 30 or so minutes the Rosae Mundi starts to settle down with the floral rose notes receding slightly.
Patchouli and cedre form the base with only a very little vetiver as far as I can tell. Again, these notes aren’t deep multifaceted renditions nor are they naturalistic. Think singular, aroma chemical representations rather than natural oils or complex accords.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Perhaps the easiest way to describe this fragrance is the rose/florals of Paris on top of the deconstructed base of Lumiere Noire Pour Homme. Of course it’s its own fragrance but this is at least an approximation.

If you like 80s rosey florals a la YSL’s Paris then I’d suggest giving this a test run. It could possibly appeal to guys looking for a semi-masculine rose too, although I suspect most guys will run 1,000 miles from wearing this leaving a big bloke-y shaped hole in the wall.

Longevity and sillage are both high

LuckyScent has 100ml/$265 or .7ml/$5

All in all I’m still not entirely sure what to make of this Rosae Mundi. What do you think of it?