Independent Perfumer

Eau de Gloire by Marc-Antoine Corticchiato for Parfum d’Empire 2003

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Post by Portia

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Hi there Fragrant Family,

When Michael Edwards of Fragrances Of The World fame had his cleanout this was one of the fragrances he gave me. I had liked it very much from my original Parfum d’Empire sample set (that I can’t find on the site anymore). So my review today is based on an older bottle like the top picture in the review. I have no idea if the fragrance has been reformulated for the new bottle but I’ve read nothing on the boards to indicate there has been a change.

Eau de Gloire by Parfum d’Empire 2003

Eau de Gloire by Marc-Antoine Corticchiato

Eau de Gloire Parfum d`Empire FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, amalfi lemon, lavender, rosemary, neroli, tangerine, myrtle
Heart: Tea, star anise, licorice, immortelle
Base: Leather, tobacco, olibanum, french labdanum, oakmoss

The first fragrance that Parfum d’Empire brought to the world in 2003, modeled on Marc-Antoine Corticchiato’s scent memory of his boyhood home Corsica, Eau de Gloire is literally translated as Water of Glory and dedicated as an homage to all those who’ve left their homelands to go into the world and conquer. Especially to his own home island boy Napoleon Bonaparte.

Photo Stolen HistoryFiles

The first words that jump into my head when wearing Eau de Gloire are Bracing, Citrus, Salt, Squeaky, Floral, Masculine. Yes, I know we don’t deal in masculine/feminine archetypes here but Eau de Gloire definitely skews towards what my upbringing has defined as a masculine scent, which does not minimise how spectacularly it will perform on the girls so please don’t get up in arms.

Eau de Gloire opens with a powerhouse icy cold screech of bergamot, citrus twig and broken branch and briny sea air then the herbs and flowers come and take the edge off. As the rosemary, lavender and star anise waltz in they warm the scent slightly but still it stays cool and laid back. I don’t believe in fragrances for the sexes but I keep imagining Eau de Gloire on a very masculine man though I would love to see how it smells on a woman. There is a squeaky dissonance here, the trilling of the citrus which lasts well into the heart of the fragrance and the rumbling of the incense, anise, oakmoss and tobacco. Unfortunately my nose misses the tea and leather in the composition completely, maybe you will have more luck.

Eau de Gloire comes and goes from my ability to smell it, very interesting, but when i concentrate I can. It’s like it hides from me to make me seek out its loose billowy freshness. At about 3-4 hours I get more soft and flowery notes over the various resins, this fragrance grows more interesting and textured as it matures. At 7 hours it is soft as butterfly kisses and almost as ephemeral.

Eau de Gloire Parfum d`EmpirePhoto Stolen Parfum d’Empire

I hadn’t worn Eau de Gloire for a while but last night when I wore it to work there were three compliments on my fragrance throughout the night. One of whom I am making a small decant for because her eyes were shining with enthusiasm. I think we have a new perfumista in our midst.

Further reading: Olfactoria’s Travels and Chemist In A Bottle
Parfum d’Empire has €120/100ml
Libertine Parfumerie has $199/100ml and FREE AUSTRALIAN SHIPPING!
Surrender To Chance has samples that start at $3.50/ml

What have you worn lately that people have noticed?

Please treat yourself well, it’s hard to be happy when there’s someone being mean to you the whole time.
Portia xx

Deluxe Giverny In Bloom Set GIVEAWAY WINNER

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Post by Portia

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Hiya APJ,

What a sensational giveaway. Thank you to Dawn Spencer Hurwitz for her incredible generosity, and excellent fragrances. What a superstar. Please go and have a look at the DSH Perfumes site.

Portia xx

Giverny In Bloom GIVEAWAY WINNER

Giverny in Bloom DSH Perfumes FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

WHAT COULD YOU WIN?

This week we will have 1 winner who will receive:
1 x The deluxe Giverny In Bloom discovery set: 4 x 3ml atomisers:
Giverny In Bloom EdT (only the dregs)
La Danse des Bleus et des Violettes EdT
l’Opera des Rouges et des Roses EdP
Le Jardin Vert EdP
along with a leaflet about the Denver Art Museum exhibit
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Closed Sunday 23rd August 2015 10pm Australian EST
Winner was chosen by random.org

Winner EverythingHealthPhoto Stolen EverythingHealth

FlowerGirlBee!

The winner will have till Thursday 27th August 2015 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

Giverny in Bloom by DSH Perfumes 2015

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Post by Portia

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Hiya APJ,

The set created for Denver Art Museum’s “In Bloom” exhibit:
Giverny In Bloom
La Danse des Bleus et des Violettes
l’Opera des Rouges et des Roses
Le Jardin Vert

Dawn Spencer Hurwitz is one of the world’s best loved independent perfumers. Partly that’s because she makes seriously fabulous fragrances but I also think that her nature and lovely genuine responses whenever I’m in touch with her adds 100% to that appeal. She sent me a pack of pre-releases back in June and at some point I must have put it in a box which was then packed away for the big move. We found quite a lot of important stuff in this box and I think Jin had done a bit of packing while I was at work one night. Anyway, found it now and really excited because one scent in particular from the set of four has me completely under its spell.

Giverny in Bloom by DSH Perfumes 2015

Giverny in Bloom by Dawn Spencer Hurwitz

Giverny in Bloom DSH Perfumes FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Ambergris, Australian sandalwood, bergamot, vetiver, bulgarian rose, cabreuva, carnation, civet, damask rose, soil tincture, Indian patchouli, rose geranium, beeswax, lime (linden blossom), galbanum, jasmine, oakmoss, heliotrope, green leaves, lemon, mimosa, orris, parma violet, peony, petitgrain, pine needles, red rose, palisander rosewood, jasmine sambac, lilac, Tunisian neroli, violet, violet leaf, Virginian cedar

On first spritz galbanum is king, quickly replaced by a woodsy white floral, cool and sharp that is cut through with a really lovely cut grass and earthy turned compost. There is so much happening in Giverny In Bloom and so much a fragrance of itself, built in big sweeping light filled strokes and made poignant by almost speckled bit players that both flesh out and buoy the composition. I am lost happily in  a wash of fragrance that you really need to stand back a bit from so that the riot of colliding pieces have a chance to become an olfactoric picture. I think it’s the loveliest green I’ve ever smelled. It beats even Nikki de Saint Phalle which was my favourite. So nuanced and beautifully balanced, artfully walking the green resinous line.

Giverny In Bloom softens off to a very quiet hum after a couple of hours yet still manages to make me smell fresher than I am. Pretty.

Giverny in Bloom DSH Perfumes Flowers in a Crystal Vase, Edouard Manet WikiCommonsPhoto Stolen WikiCommons

From DSH Perfumes site: Created for Denver Art Museum’s “In Bloom” exhibit ‘scent experience’, a gorgeous green and live flower bouquet fragrance was created to evoke the artist’s beloved flower garden.
Be transported through time and space to a moment in Monet’s flower garden at Giverny. An impressionist style perfume of green budding trees, wet dewy flowers and soil, that transforms to a rich floral bouquet as it wears.

I have just ordered a 10ml EdT from Dawn, this shit is freaking amazing.

Giverny in Bloom DSH PerfumesPhoto Stolen DSH Perfumes

DSH Perfumes has 3 fragrance strengths for Giverny in Bloom, Eau de Toilette, Voile de Toilette & Extrait plus there is a room spray and body butter. It’s a totally cool way to present a set and the only thing that could make it better was if there was bubble bath. They are available from DSH Perfumes in a variety of sizes and range from $5-155

In Bloom: Painting Flowers in the Age of Impressionism
Denver Art Museum’s “In Bloom” exhibit
July 19, 2015 – October 11, 2015
Hamilton Building – Level 2 — Ticketed, free for members. Purchase tickets online or call 720-913-0130.

SUPER exciting giveaway today, see below,
Portia xxx

giveaway kbairdPhoto Stolen kbaird

Deluxe Giverny In Bloom Set GIVEAWAY

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have 1 winner who will receive:
1 x The deluxe Giverny In Bloom discovery set: 4 – 3ml mini-sprayers of: Giverny In Bloom EdT (only the dregs), La Danse des Bleus et des Violettes EdT, l’Opera des Rouges et des Roses EdP, Le Jardin Vert EdP along with a leaflet about the Denver Art Museum exhibit.
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOW DO YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me (portia underscore turbo @ yahoo dot com dot au) so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Please go to DSH Perfumes site<<JUMP and pick a fragrance + one of its notes NO DOUBLE UPS!!!

Extra Chance?
Tweet: Giverny In Bloom Set GIVEAWAY http://wp.me/p3PURw-4bK @DSHperfumes

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Sunday 23rd August 2015 10pm Australian EST and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winner will be chosen by random.org
The winner will have till Thursday 27th August 2015 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.