Schöne Linden 05 by Krigler 1905

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Post by TinaG

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Hi APJ!

On my recent European travels I visited Krigler at the Hotel Adlon Kempinski, Berlin, located on the glorious boulevard of Unter de Linden. Unter mean ‘under’ and it is a reference to the majestic linden trees which line both sides of the road. The scent of linden flowers is reportedly deeply honeyed, and the dried flower is used as a tea. Apparently the young leaves of the linden tree and the seeds are also edible (according to the internet, so it must be true). My Berlin trip was in May, late spring, so I missed the flourish of little yellow blooms.

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The sales assistant at Krigler was amazingly helpful & patient while this little desperately jet-lagged Aussie stumbled through the range. I picked up a few samples, one of which I thought was appropriate souvenir for my time in Berlin called Schöne Linden 05. (Schöne = beautiful). The suffixed digits in Krigler’s fragrance names refer to the year they were released. Schöne Linden was launched in celebration of the opening of their first store in Berlin in 1905, hence the “05”.

Schöne Linden 05 by Krigler 1905

Schöne Linden 05 Krigler ParfumoParfumo

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Violet Leaf, Mimosa, Lilac
Heart: Tuberose, Gardenia, Linden
Base: Vanilla, Sandalwood, Carnation

The opening of this fragrance is a beautifully balanced bouquet of spring flowers. I’m impressed by the softness of a powdery lilac which is underpinned by a green violet accord. This is struck through with a “yellow” floral note and surrounded by a fleshy gardenia and watery tuberose, the last two flowers ensuring that the fragrance has a full and lush sillage. I was lucky enough to come across loads of lilac in flower when in Germany and it is fabulous. I lingered passing every bush I encountered filling my nostrils with the sweet scent and thoroughly enjoying the blooms. So gorgeous.

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Over the first 1.5 hours both the gardenia and tuberose become creamy but stay out of heavy indole territory, and I’m picking up an almond accord. ‘Lush’ is still the word which comes to mind. I feel like I’ve put on a diaphanous floral wrap that extends around me for at least a metre. Walking away from, and back into a room, the fragrance has lingered. It is warm and welcoming.

The part of this fragrance that I enjoy the most is the dry down – after 4 hours I get a thick, sticky honey note with a touch of sandalwood and a prism of green sparkling through. My skin amplifies sweetness, and I love honey as a basenote, so there are a couple of big wins for me here. The honey effect lasts for ages, I could still pick it up on my skin overnight.

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Krigler has $245/50ml
Krigler sell samples US$18/2ml and do ship to Australia.

I was frustrated with the sample spray. Perhaps I got a faulty one but it leaked when spraying and I ended up with wet fingers. My tests were all mixes of sprays and dabs because of this. Lucky I liked it!

What is your favourite spring floral fragrance?

Till next time,
Tina G xx

(Ed: All photos donated by TinaG. Thanks, they’re lovely. XXXX)

TinaG’s Fragrant Adventures: Berlin, Germany: Photo Essay

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Post by TinaG

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Hi APJ!

I’m travelling in Europe for a few months and thought y’all might like a short snapshot of my fragrance shopping in Berlin.

Heathrow Airport Terminal 5

Holy WOW. Terminal 5 at Heathrow is stunning. Duty Free had a fantastic fragrance collection including Miller Harris, By Killian, Memo, Amouage, Dolce & Gabbana Velvet Collection, Guerlain Pera Grantia, Rosa Pop and L’Homme Ideal EDP, amongst others. The staff were super-friendly & very knowledgable.

Étui Noir by Miller Harris 2016

Miller Harris has two Heathrow exclusives – Ètui Noir and Lumière Dorée. I picked up Ètui Noir which is a gentle leather fragrance

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Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamo, tangerine
Heart: Incens, iris
Base: Vetiver, leather

TinaG’s Fragrant Adventures

Berlin, Germany: Photo Essay

Berlin: I stayed at the Grand Hyatt, Berlin Mitte. All my fragrance shopping was within walking distance of the hotel.

Tourist Tip: check opening times, many places are closed on Sunday.

Frau Tonis Parfum

I had only recently heard of Berlin’s Frau Tonis Parfum so I was excited to visit their one and only store. The display made it easy to try every fragrance so I worked my way around sniffing stoppers & making notes. My poor nose was absolutely tortured from 23 hours of aircraft travel so I was totally surprised to find it still worked! Joy!! Kristiane and Clarice were wonderful & helped me with my many questions, like what does the number mean? It’s simply a catalogue system as it’s easier to remember numbers than names.

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Frau Tonis have very sensible bottle sizes – 8ml travel spray, 15ml, 50ml and 100ml. They also take custom blend orders, so you can mix & match and make your own bespoke combination. And yes they ship to Australia.

I chose three 8ml fragrances: 10 Linde Berlin (lime and honey), 14 Grasse à Toi (Jasmine, ylang-ylang, lilly of the valley, iris, peach, red berries, vanilla) and 37 Veilchen (which may also be called 37 Violet) which has violet, liquorice and raspberry.

Tourist tip: the store is near Checkpoint Charlie and Topographie des Terrors, a display & section of the Berlin Wall.

Galleries Lafayette

This department store has an atmosphere of a ‘pop-up’ shop for fashion & makeup. I went to Galleries Lafayete to fine the Berlin-based Schwartzlose.

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Yea, interesting. Rausch probably got my attention the most because of the animalistic notes, it was damn dirty & fun. Altruist is their newest which has a cologne freshness with May rose, lemon and pepper. Testing was rushed in a crowded area, I didn’t buy anything.

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Tourist tip: save yourself time by asking an SA to take you to this display. The store layout is frustratingly circular with a space in the middle.

Krigler

Krigler currently has stores in Berlin, Beverly Hills & New York. The store in the Hotel Adlon Kempinski has the full range of fragrances and make candles on-site. Their first fragrance was crafted in 1879 – 79 Pleasure Gardenia. The fragrance numbering relates to the year it was made, that one is the only ’18’ prefix. If a second or third is made, a 2 or 3 added to the number. The 2000 series drops the second zero, ie: 214 = 2014, 2142 = the second fragrance made that year.

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What do they smell like, I hear you ask?? But I haven’t yet told you about the long history, the famous people who wore Krigler, or the quality of the ingredients. Or the extravagant prices. £16 for a 2ml sample…. Painful. Yes they ship to Australia.

Established Cognac 66 was the stand out for me. A thick caramel with rich cognac cut through by a sharp juicy apple note, taking the edge off the heaviness. Apparently it used to have 80% cognac but the current formulation is 50% – still quite potent. I also picked up samples of Oud for Highness 75, Schöne Linden 05 and Extraordinaire Camelia 209.

Tourist tip: these guys are right near the Brandenburg Gate.

Ritz Carlton – “Fragrances” cocktail bar

OK this Fragrances cocktail bar was the primary reason I wanted to go to Berlin! And it totally blew me away. I’ll dedicate a separate article to my evening here because the Bar Manager, Arnd Heissen totally took me under his wing and showed me around both Fragrances, and its sister bar The Curtain Club. The bar staff were absolute fragrance & mixology experts, I had a fabulous time, so much fun!

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The cocktails are created to emulate a fragrance profile. I think there are about 30 on the menu. You walk in to a display which has a bottle of the actual fragrance, the ingredients, and a photo of the cocktail glass. I chose two cocktails, Serge Lutens Fille en Aiguilles and Bulgari Au Thè Bleu. Both were beautifully done and wonderfully presented. I was curious to see how they managed the incense in Fille en Aiguilles – this was created by using a particular smokey tea. Fab result.

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Ok I’m sure I’m over my word count (sorry Portia!) so I’ll leave my fragrant Berlin travels stories for now. It is an amazing city any my short 2 days there wasn’t enough.

Have you visited any of these places? Or do you have more recommendations for my next Berlin adventure?

xx Tina G